STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

channel99

Found this site on the web. Prices look very good. Spoke to them today and they were very helpful. They say they have supplied quite a few stoves to Ireland.

I am looking for a reference.

Kind regards

Stove Fan

cavan4sam wrote: »

thanks again , i'm not sure what would be involved in changing it to an unpressurised system , its a condensing oil burner i have as oil source, i'll get another plumber to have a look ,

It depends on the boiler and safety systems on the boiler for low water cut out.

If it's possible it's adding a cold feed and expansion tank higher than the highest radiators and then piping a feed pipe and vent pipe for the boiler.

It's something another plumber could look into for you, by phoning the boiler manufacturers:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

channel99 wrote: »

Found this site on the web. Prices look very good. Spoke to them today and they were very helpful. They say they have supplied quite a few stoves to Ireland.

I am looking for a reference.

Kind regards

Sorry can't help as have never used that company:(

Stove Fan:)

cavan4sam

Stove Fan wrote: »

It depends on the boiler and safety systems on the boiler for low water cut out.

If it's possible it's adding a cold feed and expansion tank higher than the highest radiators and then piping a feed pipe and vent pipe for the boiler.

It's something another plumber could look into for you, by phoning the boiler manufacturers:)

Stove Fan:)

he did say something about a small cold water tank in the attic alright i must get him back to explain it in lay mans terms next time

cavan4sam

just saw the stanley lismore today in a showroom , is it same spec as erin because i'm leaning towards it , its a nicer looking stove

vwpolo

Hi,
I'm thinking of getting the Stockton 3 which will be suitable for our small room, I have a couple of questions about installation. I know the fireback needs to be removed and the wall behind it replastered & painted, but does the fireplace have to be taken off to install it? I thought the beauty of it was that it's so small it slots into a small fireplace (see pic). I've been given a quote of Eur400+ for installation which seems excessive - pipes were quoted as 50 extra to the Eur250 labour cost, then another 100 for a piece of granite for it to sit on (fair enough) the + bit is unknown yet and will be for plastering. Lining the chimney was also mentioned as was the question does our fireplace have steel in it?! My understanding is that you only line a chimney if you are getting an inset stove & steel is not a good material to have near heat, so fireplaces are made of block work. Hopefully the above quote is reasonable so we can use this installer but would be grateful of some advice from those with experience in this!
thanks.

mrscazlindsay

Hello Stove Fan

not really a stove question as such, more of a fireplace one.... we've just got a 5kw stove and my husband is widening the fireplace, want to get as much of that part done before I get someone in to install the flue and stove properly....
my question is, I would like to tile the inside walls and the floor/hearth of the fireplace, I would assume normal wall tiles would crack with the heat, we thought of using stone tiles like a dark coloured brick-shape or mosaic travertine but I just don't know what kind of tiles would definitely be suitable for such a use, either the heat or the weight of the stove!!
Can you advise?!?

Thanks a million

Stove Fan

vwpolo wrote: »

Hi,
I'm thinking of getting the Stockton 3 which will be suitable for our small room, I have a couple of questions about installation. I know the fireback needs to be removed and the wall behind it replastered & painted, but does the fireplace have to be taken off to install it? I thought the beauty of it was that it's so small it slots into a small fireplace (see pic). I've been given a quote of Eur400+ for installation which seems excessive - pipes were quoted as 50 extra to the Eur250 labour cost, then another 100 for a piece of granite for it to sit on (fair enough) the + bit is unknown yet and will be for plastering. Lining the chimney was also mentioned as was the question does our fireplace have steel in it?! My understanding is that you only line a chimney if you are getting an inset stove & steel is not a good material to have near heat, so fireplaces are made of block work. Hopefully the above quote is reasonable so we can use this installer but would be grateful of some advice from those with experience in this!
thanks.

Hi, are you really wanting a freestanding stove installed in a rather tight opening? It would be less work to install one of these:).
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/signature-range/signature-inset.html

http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/ecoburn-range/ecoburn-inset.html
http://www.stovax.com/builtintothewallfires/builtinfires/built_in_wood__multi_fuel/riva_40_multi_fuel_fire.aspx

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/4kwinsetfireview.ashx

The manufacturers state it's fine to install the stockton 3 but it may be better and easier to buy an inset stove?
http://www.stovax.com/stoves/traditionalstoves/wood__multi_fuel_stoves/stockton_stoves/stockton_3_stove.aspx

What the installer will do is remove the fireback, Line the sides, ie heat proof plaster,tile, vermiculite fireboard etc. The new piece of marble will be laid for the stove to sit on.
The stove will be connected to the chimney. Depending on how old your house is this could be fully lining the chimney with a flexible liner or if your house has a clay lined chimney using a clay liner adapter to join the stoves flue to the existing clay liner.

It is not just inset stoves that may need to have the chimney lined it's both inset and freestanding depending on the age, construction and soundness of the existing chimney. The installer should test the chimney with a smoke pellet after preheating the chimney to make sure smoke does not leak upstairs and into any adjoining cupboards/loft. He will then thoroughly sweep the chimney before installing the stove.
A fully lined chimney is the better job though.

What I would do is ask the installer for a full detailed quote with the breakdown of the costs and whats involved. This way there are no surprises:)
Steel shouldn't be needed and there should only be a concrete former or lintel, the lintel having some steel in.

The inset stove is easiest to install once the chimney has been tested, as it just slots in, fixed and sometimes backfilled with vermiculite depending on manufacturer.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

mrscazlindsay wrote: »

Hello Stove Fan

not really a stove question as such, more of a fireplace one.... we've just got a 5kw stove and my husband is widening the fireplace, want to get as much of that part done before I get someone in to install the flue and stove properly....
my question is, I would like to tile the inside walls and the floor/hearth of the fireplace, I would assume normal wall tiles would crack with the heat, we thought of using stone tiles like a dark coloured brick-shape or mosaic travertine but I just don't know what kind of tiles would definitely be suitable for such a use, either the heat or the weight of the stove!!
Can you advise?!?

Thanks a million

To be honest I'm not sure myself:( I would ask the shop or tile manufacturer if they are heatproof. I personally would imagine they would be fine especially if fired in a kiln.

Stove Fan:)

guinness queen

Hi Stove Fan,
As poster earlier, I have now installed the Nestor Martin H23 stove, an enormously expensive stove, however mine was a demo model and i got it for half price. I do not think I would buy this model again. I can now agree with all of the negative comments on 'What stove'.com. Of course this is after the event, there were many positive comments also it has to be said, and I wish I could be as happy. I did read a couple of negatives in advance. I am finding it very hard going. It takes ages to really get a good fire going, the glass blackens very quickly, and can even go out by times. I have followed the instructions to the letter but it is still not what I feel it should be. I was quite successful with it a few times, perhaps its a draught problem. I used a 904/904 liner, the chimney was filled after insertion of liner. As far as I can see all was done properly. there is a bend in the chimney, would this account for some of the problems. I have used wood, pehaps the wood blocks are too big. I have used smokeless fuel and thats not so bad. I will try anthercite soon and perhaps that will work better. When I open door to refuel then I get a lot of smoke. I feel it is a bit of a waste of money. Could not even get a reply from retailer. I did contact Euroheat in England and they were so helpful, sent me the manuals etc. I also had several e mails they did all they could to help, even though I purchased in ireland.
Is there anyone out there who has this stove perhaps could give me some advice. I would consider selling it but the thought of all that work installing it, the flue height having to be exactly the same etc. really puts me off.
The heat from it when I manage to get it right is very good indeed, and it looks great. Any help would be appreciated.

Stove Fan

guinness queen wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
As poster earlier, I have now installed the Nestor Martin H23 stove, an enormously expensive stove, however mine was a demo model and i got it for half price. I do not think I would buy this model again. I can now agree with all of the negative comments on 'What stove'.com. Of course this is after the event, there were many positive comments also it has to be said, and I wish I could be as happy. I did read a couple of negatives in advance. I am finding it very hard going. It takes ages to really get a good fire going, the glass blackens very quickly, and can even go out by times. I have followed the instructions to the letter but it is still not what I feel it should be. I was quite successful with it a few times, perhaps its a draught problem. I used a 904/904 liner, the chimney was filled after insertion of liner. As far as I can see all was done properly. there is a bend in the chimney, would this account for some of the problems. I have used wood, pehaps the wood blocks are too big. I have used smokeless fuel and thats not so bad. I will try anthercite soon and perhaps that will work better. When I open door to refuel then I get a lot of smoke. I feel it is a bit of a waste of money. Could not even get a reply from retailer. I did contact Euroheat in England and they were so helpful, sent me the manuals etc. I also had several e mails they did all they could to help, even though I purchased in ireland.
Is there anyone out there who has this stove perhaps could give me some advice. I would consider selling it but the thought of all that work installing it, the flue height having to be exactly the same etc. really puts me off.
The heat from it when I manage to get it right is very good indeed, and it looks great. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm so sorry to hear of your dissapointment in this stove:(, unfortunately the time taken to get going seems to be a common problem.

I would be surprised if it was your lined chimney causing problems even if it wasn't backfilled with vermiculite. It's quite normal to have bends in the flue to clear fireplaces upstairs etc.
Does it vary with different wood suppliers? Is the wood well dry, could you try a friends/relatives wood?
Is it a 7kw stove? Is your house exceptionaly airtight?
Does the smoke dissapear when the external door/window is opened? Is the baffle plate installed correctly? This should be shown in the manual.
How high is the chimney, a photo would help:)

Unfortunately can't think of anything else:(
The stove could be replaced simply, it would only need the black fluepipe reducing or a longer piece installed. The main thing is the new stove has the same size flue pipe/outlet as the NM.
If you do go for another consider Woodwarm, Clearview, Morso, Charnwood.

Stove Fan:)

vwpolo

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, are you really wanting a freestanding stove installed in a rather tight opening? It would be less work to install one of these:).
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/signature-range/signature-inset.html

http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/ecoburn-range/ecoburn-inset.html
http://www.stovax.com/builtintothewallfires/builtinfires/built_in_wood__multi_fuel/riva_40_multi_fuel_fire.aspx

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/4kwinsetfireview.ashx

The manufacturers state it's fine to install the stockton 3 but it may be better and easier to buy an inset stove?
http://www.stovax.com/stoves/traditionalstoves/wood__multi_fuel_stoves/stockton_stoves/stockton_3_stove.aspx

What the installer will do is remove the fireback, Line the sides, ie heat proof plaster,tile, vermiculite fireboard etc. The new piece of marble will be laid for the stove to sit on.
The stove will be connected to the chimney. Depending on how old your house is this could be fully lining the chimney with a flexible liner or if your house has a clay lined chimney using a clay liner adapter to join the stoves flue to the existing clay liner.

It is not just inset stoves that may need to have the chimney lined it's both inset and freestanding depending on the age, construction and soundness of the existing chimney. The installer should test the chimney with a smoke pellet after preheating the chimney to make sure smoke does not leak upstairs and into any adjoining cupboards/loft. He will then thoroughly sweep the chimney before installing the stove.
A fully lined chimney is the better job though.

What I would do is ask the installer for a full detailed quote with the breakdown of the costs and whats involved. This way there are no surprises:)
Steel shouldn't be needed and there should only be a concrete former or lintel, the lintel having some steel in.

The inset stove is easiest to install once the chimney has been tested, as it just slots in, fixed and sometimes backfilled with vermiculite depending on manufacturer.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan for such a detailed response! We are on a strict budget which is why we're going for the Stockton 3. We planned on an inset stove initially but I've been told the installation would be really expensive and the inset stoves in particular are difficult to install & only as good as the quality of installation [I'm in Galway and can't get any recommendation for someone to do inset stoves]. Also the lining material cost Eur30 per metre and our chimney is the height of 3 stories. So the Stockton seemed like the cheaper but still as effective option. The house is less than ten years old so from what you say no liner should be needed unless it was badly constructed. I've had it swept already.

Just one specific question - I know the fireback is taken out to install the stove, but does the mantel & surround come off and get put back on also?

Thanks.

guinness queen

Morning Stove Fan,
Thanks for your prompt reply, I certainly would consider one of the models you recommended if and when I change this model.
We put in an 8 or 9 meter flu, we are down in a bit of a dip, perhaps that has a bearing on things, we never had a good open fire in a very heavy frost, but so far we have not had that problem yet, and that worries me.
I shall check what happens when doors etc are open later on. The house is definitely not airtight, but the stove seems to be. If I opened up the ash box it would take off like a grand prix driver. One is specifically instructed not to do this. The lever marked a - b
is for air direction. The lever is in the middle when starting the fire and then when it gets going back to A. the middle is also for smokeless fuel, and B is for coal. Sometimes I put the lever down to B to give it a bit of a boost, that works. The biggest problem seems to be when moving from the starting position (between A & back to A. WEll I shall just have to put up with it, and I guess take note of exactly the best way to keep it going. I have no problem starting it, it goes off in a blaze, the problem is when the lever goes back to the A position. I am not sure what would happen to the stove if it remained in the middle position. Thanks anyway, you are always most helpful to everyone, and have an abundance of patience. I shall let u know about the position when doors are open.

kingdom fan

Hi All,

great info here, I am on the brink of buying a boiler stove to fire 10 single rads to replace my open fire with back boiler, my problem is that my room is narrow at 11foot wide ( 16 foot long)and used as hallway between bedrooms and kitchen, ( double doors into kitchen so that will help control room temp is too hot ). therefore I want a narrow compact stove, the Reginald is too big and I dont want an insert as I have been hearing a lot of problems with these. Fireplace is 20" wide and cannot be widened. So I think my only option is the Inis Meain boiler stove.
I see relatively little on the forum about these, anyone any experience ( a few years) with these or any advice.
I will probably buy this weekend

Thanks

Stove Fan

vwpolo wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan for such a detailed response! We are on a strict budget which is why we're going for the Stockton 3. We planned on an inset stove initially but I've been told the installation would be really expensive and the inset stoves in particular are difficult to install & only as good as the quality of installation [I'm in Galway and can't get any recommendation for someone to do inset stoves]. Also the lining material cost Eur30 per metre and our chimney is the height of 3 stories. So the Stockton seemed like the cheaper but still as effective option. The house is less than ten years old so from what you say no liner should be needed unless it was badly constructed. I've had it swept already.

Just one specific question - I know the fireback is taken out to install the stove, but does the mantel & surround come off and get put back on also?

Thanks.

Hi an inset stove to be honest is a very simple stove to install, far simpler than removing the fireback and making good the sides, back and hearth. Some inset stoves are designed to shape to the rear fireback and so no fireback removal/ construction alterations.
The chimney doesn't need to be lined providing the clay flue is in a sound working condition. Lining is a much better job though if you can afford the extra.
It is true though that the manufacturers instructions are followed so they are installed correctly. Backfilling with vermiculite etc.
Some brands are better than others with regards to insert stoves.
I personally wouldn't see a need to remove the fire surround, but they may remove the inner marble and slightly enlarge the fireplace opening?
I would discuss it with them:)

Jackbg

Hi,

first time using this site so I hope replying on this thread is the right way to ask my question!?

I have a 2000sq ft bungalow with an underfloor heating system run on oil. My oil bill has been around 3k for 2011 and 2010. So, I'm looking at installing a boiler stove as I have access to quite a bit of wood. Is it a huge job to connect a stove to this system and what brand of stove is the best?

Thanks in advance,
Jackbg.

Stove Fan

guinness queen wrote: »

Morning Stove Fan,
Thanks for your prompt reply, I certainly would consider one of the models you recommended if and when I change this model.
We put in an 8 or 9 meter flu, we are down in a bit of a dip, perhaps that has a bearing on things, we never had a good open fire in a very heavy frost, but so far we have not had that problem yet, and that worries me.
I shall check what happens when doors etc are open later on. The house is definitely not airtight, but the stove seems to be. If I opened up the ash box it would take off like a grand prix driver. One is specifically instructed not to do this. The lever marked a - b
is for air direction. The lever is in the middle when starting the fire and then when it gets going back to A. the middle is also for smokeless fuel, and B is for coal. Sometimes I put the lever down to B to give it a bit of a boost, that works. The biggest problem seems to be when moving from the starting position (between A & back to A. WEll I shall just have to put up with it, and I guess take note of exactly the best way to keep it going. I have no problem starting it, it goes off in a blaze, the problem is when the lever goes back to the A position. I am not sure what would happen to the stove if it remained in the middle position. Thanks anyway, you are always most helpful to everyone, and have an abundance of patience. I shall let u know about the position when doors are open.

Hi:),

I have been looking at hopefully the right stove operating instructions and the lever on the left is lowest position is for Flame probably (B) on other models, ie when lighting the fire.
I would leave it in this position for a good 15 minutes and then move it up to A then. It also states that the up and down lever, that the down FLAME symbol or B allows air from below which is what you want when first lighting, particually coal. The position A is air from above only.

When you light the fire have the lever on the left at B or on FLAME symbol.
The dial on the right is the air control to the fire. You ideally want it on maximum draw.
You may need to press in a knob, ignition overide button and set the air control to the 9pm position, Air volume control dial setting aligning with B/flame setting = Max air supply.
I would leave like this for 15 minutes and then return the left lever to position A
Then to control the burn rate adjust the air volume control to your desired setting, If too slow adjust higher. Burning too brightly adjust lower:)

When you add new fuel, adjust the side lever back to flame/B and set the air control knob higher until burning well then set slide back to A and adjust air volume control to a satisfactory burn.
This is what I was looking at. If not, your stove should be very similar:) Page 8
http://www.euroheat.co.uk/ImgShare/420049622Operating%20H23%20S23%20SP23%20R23%20Smoke%20Control%20EdB%20Low%20Res.pdf

Your chimney could be in a rather poor draught condition being in a valley. There may be different chimney pots/terminals that may improve this, but see how you get on with it first.
All stoves take some experimentation and mastering what works for you and your chimney:)
Good luck with it.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

kingdom fan wrote: »

Hi All,

great info here, I am on the brink of buying a boiler stove to fire 10 single rads to replace my open fire with back boiler, my problem is that my room is narrow at 11foot wide ( 16 foot long)and used as hallway between bedrooms and kitchen, ( double doors into kitchen so that will help control room temp is too hot ). therefore I want a narrow compact stove, the Reginald is too big and I dont want an insert as I have been hearing a lot of problems with these. Fireplace is 20" wide and cannot be widened. So I think my only option is the Inis Meain boiler stove.
I see relatively little on the forum about these, anyone any experience ( a few years) with these or any advice.
I will probably buy this weekend

Thanks

Hi, inset stoves work well providing they are a quality manufacturer and properly installed.
As your room is narrow how about the Aarrow ecoboiler EB12HE. 12 kw to the water and max 6kw to the room.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html
This is a very compact boiler stove and not very deep like most irish manufacturers.
You should get the boiler sized, as rads come in a variety of sizes which affect output and boiler size needed.
You will certainly need the double doors open as your room only needs around 3kw to heat it and this produces up to 6kw.
Never seen the inis mean so can't comment.

Stove Fan.

Stove Fan

Jackbg wrote: »

Hi,

first time using this site so I hope replying on this thread is the right way to ask my question!?

I have a 2000sq ft bungalow with an underfloor heating system run on oil. My oil bill has been around 3k for 2011 and 2010. So, I'm looking at installing a boiler stove as I have access to quite a bit of wood. Is it a huge job to connect a stove to this system and what brand of stove is the best?

Thanks in advance,
Jackbg.

Hi, yes it is quite a big job as the boiler stove can't heat the underfloor heating direct. You would need to use a thermal store/buffer tank. This would be sized for the system and could range from anywhere 500-1500+ litres. Ideally if your oil boiler all leads to the hotpress the thermal store would replace the existing hot water cylinder in the hotpress.
This is of course the floor could take the additional weight if upstairs.
The thermal store would then feed the underfloor circuits and if you have any rads/towel rails these would be fed from the hotter water from the top.

It really depends how the plumbing routes and how the underfloor manifolds are run/plumbed, but if they all lead from the hotpress then much simpler.

The only way to find out if it's feasable is to get several quotes.
If you want the best stove then it's clearview with woodwarm second. Just make sure the plumber sizes the boilers room heat properly as you don't want to roast:eek:
You may after receiving the quotes go for a non boiler stove:eek:

Stove Fan:)

vwpolo

Thanks Stove Fan

Jackbg

Thanks Stove Fan..

Yes, the tank is on the ground floor so a buffer tank could replace it...so will look into that, even if expensive it's got to beat spending 3k and rising on oil each year!

Stove Fan

Jackbg wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan..

Yes, the tank is on the ground floor so a buffer tank could replace it...so will look into that, even if expensive it's got to beat spending 3k and rising on oil each year!

Sounds good, just remember a heat leak rad. The boiler stove has to be installed on an open vent system. Ie cold water tank in loft which fills the heating system.
Not a pressurised/sealed system that you fill with a braided hose with a pressure quage on the boiler.
The plumber who quotes will check all of this out and advice:)

Stove Fan:)

guinness queen

Hi Stove fan,

Many thanks for all your research. I have read the manual from back to front many times and have followed it to the letter. I guess I will leave the lever in the middle and that seems to do the trick. When the fire was going well today, I put on a mixture called Country mix it is specially for stoves. I did not have to use very much , and then when it was up and running I added the wood. It all went very well, but I did have to keep an eye on it You are right of course it takes a bit of time to understand. There is also a adjustment under the stove but I will try adjusting that if all else fails. Thanks again and I feel like a bit of a nuisance, or a hysterical pensioner. I do really appreciate all your help. When I get it right for a few weeks I will let you know. A chap named Oliver at Euro heat (England) was also more than helpful.

guinness queen

Stove Fan,
It throws out great heat.

kingdom fan

THanks Stove fan, I prefer the design of the Inis Meain and its marinally narrower also. I'll be looking at it in more detail tomorow morning so I'll give an update on the Inis stove. I'd like to support an Irish company also if I can.
Thans again

Jackbg

Thanks Stove Fan......if I put in a non-boiler stove, can I leave it burning through the night? And if so, is there any particular make that is best suited for that? Also, how do you rate Mulberry stoves?

Jackbg :-)

Stove Fan

Jackbg wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan......if I put in a non-boiler stove, can I leave it burning through the night? And if so, is there any particular make that is best suited for that? Also, how do you rate Mulberry stoves?

Jackbg :-)

You can let a stove burn overnight but to be honest I wouldn't advice it due to greater chance of causing tar/creasote in the chimney caused by slumbering the fire with a far reduced air supply to it. We used to sometimes but the wood was very dry.
Make sure to install a carbon monoxide alarm:)
When I have burnt wood overnight I let it burn on full draught for 15 minutes prior to closing up the vents. We had a very large villager A range wood stove which kept in well with the optional damper however the woodwarm or clearview are way superior build/controlability and quality.

The better makes like Clearview Morso, Charnwood should be better than the cheaper brands.
You could look up stoves on www.whatstove.co.uk and see if owners can keep them in overnight.
What size non boiler stove would you want?

Sorry but never seen a mulberry stove in person.

Stove Fan:)

Bubblefett

Just a quick question if anyone knows- can an electric stove be plugged into a normal plug or does it need a specific socket like an electric oven does? The manual says it is fitted with a BS1363 plug (13 amp fuse rated). Sorry if it's a stupid question, just this technical stuff goes over my head.

Stove Fan

Bubblefett wrote: »

Just a quick question if anyone knows- can an electric stove be plugged into a normal plug or does it need a specific socket like an electric oven does? The manual says it is fitted with a BS1363 plug (13 amp fuse rated). Sorry if it's a stupid question, just this technical stuff goes over my head.

Yes, no problem to plug in it, it will come with a moulded pre fitted plug by Eu regulations. You just need a socket handy.
There is no such thing as a stupid question. Best to make sure if it's something your not sure of.

Stove Fan:)

Bubblefett

Thank you Stove Fan