STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Stove Fan

moy83 wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan after looking at it again this morning I'm going to go through the ceiling and roof .
Will the twin walled flue need to be boxed when going through the attic (bout 3ft) or is it safe to leave it exposed ? Thanks again

Hi you will need to use some kind of mesh protection to stop any stored objects from touching the flue in the loft space.

At the base of the chimney in the loft best to buy one of these, it prevents the insulation from touching the warm chimney. Scroll down to view.(Attic insulation shield)
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Selkirk-flue.html

Some details on boxing in.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/twin-wall-flue-boxing.html


Basically any cupboards or rooms you have to box the chimney in to prevent any combustible objects or humans touching the warm/hottish flue, I would use a metal frame system at least 50mm away or whatever the flue manufacturer states and use fireproof plasterboard and in the loft use an attic insulation shield and fix some grilled mesh spaced out from the flue to stop any stored/falling objects touching the flue. There should be no flue joints inside the floors/roof penetrations and any joins should be a minimum 6 inches above or below the floor/ceiling/ roof penetrations.

Your manufacturer of your flue should cover these points in their installation instructions and distances to combustibles.

Stove Fan:)

cordni

so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves

Stove Fan

cordni wrote: »

so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves

Thanks:D Make sure the ashes are just wood ash as coal ashes will scratch the glass.
With the vents, yes leave them fully open when lighting then after 10-15 minutes close the bottom vent.
You should then control the burn using the top vent. Depending on how good the stove is you may need to have the bottom vent partially open.
It is really trial and error and experimentation to get the temperature you like. I would advice a stove thermometer as it's a great way to see if you are burning too cool or on the other hand too hot.The stovax thermometer is ok.

Stove Fan:)

cordni

Stove Fan wrote: »

cordni wrote: »

so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves

Thanks:D Make sure the ashes are just wood ash as coal ashes will scratch the glass.
With the vents, yes leave them fully open when lighting then after 10-15 minutes close the bottom vent.
You should then control the burn using the top vent. Depending on how good the stove is you may need to have the bottom vent partially open.
It is really trial and error and experimentation to get the temperature you like. I would advice a stove thermometer as it's a great way to see if you are burning too cool or on the other hand too hot.The stovax thermometer is ok.

Stove Fan:)

Once again fantastic advice! I thought the lower vent needed to be open for heat..... Shows what I know. Thanks stove
Fan

Torrie

I was thinking of putting a small multi-fuel inset stove into my sitting room. Visited 3 places today and was told 3 different things:

1) I could just slot it in and it'd work fine.


2) I could slot it in and it would work ok, but i'd be better putting two 45 angles on the back and about a metre of flue up the chimney with a reducer to seal. This would cost about 150 on price of stove.

3) I'd need to line the chimney fully at a cost of about €900.

Anyone offer any advice?

Thanks

mylomac

Hi Stovefan,

I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
I have 2 questions :
1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

Rad breakdown

500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

Stove Fan

mylomac wrote: »

Hi Stovefan,

I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
I have 2 questions :
1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

Rad breakdown

500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

Hi,

Which are the two large double radiators are in this vaulted room with the stove? These rads will not be needed with the stoves room heat:)

Stove Fan:)

mylomac

Hi Stovefan,

These two doubles - 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

Thanks.

Stove Fan

mylomac wrote: »

Hi Stovefan,

I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
I have 2 questions :
1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

Rad breakdown

500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

Stove Fan:)

clappyhappy

we just bought a stanley cara inset stove, my sister has one in her home and it seems to be superb. We had a gas fire in the sitting room, and a stove in the kitchen, haven't used the sitting room in about two years as we love the fire in the stove. Getting it fitted this week and looking forward to using the room again and having a nice fire there. I hope its as good as everyone says. Certainly looks very neat and stylish.

Rob_talisman

And now with pics.

Hootanany

Hootanany wrote: »

Hi
Sorry for butting in I am now looking for a 8 to 12 kw non boiler stove.
Any recommendations would be appreciated, are Firewarm any good cost is an issue.

Many thanks in advance.

Jackbg

Thanks Stove Fan,

Any opinions on the Tara stove now from Stanley...7kw to room and 3kw to water with overnight capability. My room is 25x14x8 and one 25ft wall has 2 6ftx7ft windows and patio sliding doors. Would that kw to room be too high, and would that kw water be enough for showers, etc.

Thanks again :-)

meercat

Torrie wrote: »

I was thinking of putting a small multi-fuel inset stove into my sitting room. Visited 3 places today and was told 3 different things:

1) I could just slot it in and it'd work fine.


2) I could slot it in and it would work ok, but i'd be better putting two 45 angles on the back and about a metre of flue up the chimney with a reducer to seal. This would cost about 150 on price of stove.

3) I'd need to line the chimney fully at a cost of about €900.

Anyone offer any advice?

Thanks

welcome to boards
perhaps mods will move to this thread for you
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056390351

stove fans the man:D

mylomac

Stove Fan wrote: »

Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks for your reply I'll check out the EB12HE.

I don't know a good plumber to use (yet !) but have some reccomendations.
One that I have spoken to has doubted whether I can tie a stove boiler into the existing oil burner fired central heating system.
His issue is that "the outlet pipe from the Stove is 1 inch, whereas the existing system piping is 3/4 inch".
I haven't come accross this as an issue before - have you ?

Thanks.

Stove Fan

Hootanany wrote: »

Hi, I didn't reply because I have never heard of firewarm. If your looking for a budget stove consider the Firefox or Tiger stoves. They are cast in China but seem pretty well put together.

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Tiger-and-Firefox-stoves.html
http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c92/
http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c69/

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

Jackbg wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan,

Any opinions on the Tara stove now from Stanley...7kw to room and 3kw to water with overnight capability. My room is 25x14x8 and one 25ft wall has 2 6ftx7ft windows and patio sliding doors. Would that kw to room be too high, and would that kw water be enough for showers, etc.

Thanks again :-)

I rated it as 6kw but I think 7kw would be fine especially with the expanse of glass. It really depends on insulation levels but feel 7kw should heat the space fine.

The tara should heat the standard sized hot water cylinder no problem as a standard sized hot water cylinder needs around 2-3kw to heat it.
http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-hot-water/solid-fuel/tara-stove.aspx
It looks an acceptable stove, depending on price, at least it's a well known brand.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

mylomac wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks for your reply I'll check out the EB12HE.

I don't know a good plumber to use (yet !) but have some reccomendations.
One that I have spoken to has doubted whether I can tie a stove boiler into the existing oil burner fired central heating system.
His issue is that "the outlet pipe from the Stove is 1 inch, whereas the existing system piping is 3/4 inch".
I haven't come accross this as an issue before - have you ?

Thanks.

Hi, your plumber should be routing the 1 inch pipe work to a new twincoil cylinder in the hotpress. This is a pair of 1 inch pipes, Primary flow and return. This cylinder should most ideally be above the stove and no further than 4 metres away to work effectively on gravity circulation.
The plumber should also have at least 1 radiator working as a heat leak radiator also on gravity circulation, This gravity circulation dissipates the heat in the event of a powercut.
The oil system and boiler stove should be an open vented system and not a sealed/ pressurised system.

The radiator piping can then either tee off the 1 inch flow in 3/4 or run seperate 3/4 inch piping from the stove boiler outlets to tee into the existing radiator circuit piping.

Personally I would try more quotes with someone more used to installing boiler stoves.

Stove Fan:)

moy83

Hi Stove Fan I'm looking for guidance again if you will be so kind .
I got the twinwall out through the slates this evening and used the lead flashing they gave me .
Now they gave me what I think is called a storm cap that goes around the pipe and sits over the lead where it comes up the pipe and its idea is to throw the drips out away from the joint . But its just a thin piece of stainless that doesnt kiss in brilliantly to the flue pipe ,so my question is could i put a gasket of some sort inside the storm cap before I tighten it around the flue or should i butter up the top of the lead wit fire cement / silicon ?
Thanks in advance

Torrie

Thanks meercat!

delly

Hi Torrie, I have moved your question to a new thread here in the P+H forum, as I can't put them into the Stoves Q+A due to the fact I don't mod this forum. One of the P+H Mods will do the job soon enough though.

mylomac

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, your plumber should be routing the 1 inch pipe work to a new twincoil cylinder in the hotpress. This is a pair of 1 inch pipes, Primary flow and return. This cylinder should most ideally be above the stove and no further than 4 metres away to work effectively on gravity circulation.
The plumber should also have at least 1 radiator working as a heat leak radiator also on gravity circulation, This gravity circulation dissipates the heat in the event of a powercut.
The oil system and boiler stove should be an open vented system and not a sealed/ pressurised system.

The radiator piping can then either tee off the 1 inch flow in 3/4 or run seperate 3/4 inch piping from the stove boiler outlets to tee into the existing radiator circuit piping.

Personally I would try more quotes with someone more used to installing boiler stoves.

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove fan,

Thanks for the explanation, I think I got most of it. In brief, it is possible, but there's more work that I thought.

1. I will speak to a plumber with experience installing boiler stoves - I just want to have an understanding of the setup myself before going ahead.
2. It is an open vented system. The cylinder level would be above the stove level (by around 1 metre)
3. So I would need to replace my existing cylider with a new twincoil cylinder that takes one feed from the oil boiler and one from the stove ?
4. The current oil boiler is 6 metres away from the cylnder. The stove would be 5 metres away from the cylinder. Is this a non-runner or is there a way around this ?

Thanks.



Thanks.

Stove Fan

moy83 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan I'm looking for guidance again if you will be so kind .
I got the twinwall out through the slates this evening and used the lead flashing they gave me .
Now they gave me what I think is called a storm cap that goes around the pipe and sits over the lead where it comes up the pipe and its idea is to throw the drips out away from the joint . But its just a thin piece of stainless that doesnt kiss in brilliantly to the flue pipe ,so my question is could i put a gasket of some sort inside the storm cap before I tighten it around the flue or should i butter up the top of the lead wit fire cement / silicon ?
Thanks in advance

Round the stainless steel ring (storm collar) use heat resistant silicone to form a seal around the pipe and storm collar. Like plumba flue etc. Use only on the twinwall, not on the single wall pipe.

Stove Fan:)

emg74

Stove Fan wrote: »

Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

Stove Fan:)

Just updating to say that we got a Stratford EB12HE fitted during the summer. This is the first week that we are really testing it, up to now just had enough of a fire to heat the water - Didn't want any heat in the rads. This week however it is fully up and running and it is FAB We love it, so efficient on fuel, We are burning a mix of turf, logs and a bit of coal. I am amazed at how little fuel it is needing, the cylinder is full and the rads are so hot. It is going to make a huge difference to our heating bill and will pay for itself pretty quickly I reckon. I am hoping that we will not use any oil this year.

Over the weekend with fire on all day Sunday from approx 12pm, we used a bin of turf ( 5 gallon oil drum used as a turf bin), about 8 blocks of timber to get it lit and a few shovels of cheapie economy coal. The kids had a bath and I had a shower over the course of the day. Once it is up and running, the water in the cylinder is replaced very quickly after say a shower. When the rads are hot, they hold the heat for hours without having to keep stoking the fire.

I would highly recommend this stove to anyone.

Stove Fan

mylomac wrote: »

Hi Stove fan,

Thanks for the explanation, I think I got most of it. In brief, it is possible, but there's more work that I thought.

1. I will speak to a plumber with experience installing boiler stoves - I just want to have an understanding of the setup myself before going ahead.
2. It is an open vented system. The cylinder level would be above the stove level (by around 1 metre)
3. So I would need to replace my existing cylider with a new twincoil cylinder that takes one feed from the oil boiler and one from the stove ?
4. The current oil boiler is 6 metres away from the cylnder. The stove would be 5 metres away from the cylinder. Is this a non-runner or is there a way around this ?

Thanks.



Thanks.

3) Yes one set of coils for stove and the other set of coils for stove on the twincoil cylinder.

4) The oil boiler siting can be very flexible as to distance. The hot water cylinder will work best the nearer it is to the stove.
The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and then down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder.

If the cylinder is on the first floor or in the loft of a bungalow and the pipework from stove to cylinder can constantly rise to the cylinder then you have a working system.

If not your plumber would need to move the cylinder to above the stove and adapt extend the pipework to oil boiler etc.

Only a site visit can establish these points.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

emg74 wrote: »

Just updating to say that we got a Stratford EB12HE fitted during the summer. This is the first week that we are really testing it, up to now just had enough of a fire to heat the water - Didn't want any heat in the rads. This week however it is fully up and running and it is FAB We love it, so efficient on fuel, We are burning a mix of turf, logs and a bit of coal. I am amazed at how little fuel it is needing, the cylinder is full and the rads are so hot. It is going to make a huge difference to our heating bill and will pay for itself pretty quickly I reckon. I am hoping that we will not use any oil this year.

Over the weekend with fire on all day Sunday from approx 12pm, we used a bin of turf ( 5 gallon oil drum used as a turf bin), about 8 blocks of timber to get it lit and a few shovels of cheapie economy coal. The kids had a bath and I had a shower over the course of the day. Once it is up and running, the water in the cylinder is replaced very quickly after say a shower. When the rads are hot, they hold the heat for hours without having to keep stoking the fire.

I would highly recommend this stove to anyone.

So great to hear you are still delighted with it:D. From a potential customers view you can't beat a tried and tested recommendation:D
You could write a review of it here:
http://www.whatstove.co.uk/aarrow-stoves/stratford-eb-12-he-stove.html

Stove Fan:)

mylomac

Stove Fan wrote: »

3) Yes one set of coils for stove and the other set of coils for stove on the twincoil cylinder.

4) The oil boiler siting can be very flexible as to distance. The hot water cylinder will work best the nearer it is to the stove.
The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder.

If the cylinder is on the first floor or in the loft of a bungalow and the pipework from stove to cylinder can constantly rise to the cylinder then you have a working system.

If not your plumber would need to move the cylinder to above the stove and adapt extend the pipework to oil boiler etc.

Only a site visit can establish these points.

Stove Fan:)

Hi stove fan,

I will de arranging a site visit. A local stores offer a survey for 3o euro which I'll be ahappy to pay for to get it right.

On your point
"The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder."

I am in a bungalow .The cylinder is in the hot-press, raised up around 1 metre, with room to rise another couple of feet if required.
My idea on how this might work is that, the stove would be at ground level, the pipes would comes out the back, go down a couple of feet into the ground, travel along under the floor to the hot press and rise up the 1 metre or so to the cylinder.
Is this a problem in terms of a constant rise to the cylinder ? Can I not go down from the stove to put the pipework into the ground to travel back to the cylinder ? or do the pipes have to travel at least horizontally from the stove to the hot press before rising to the cylinder ?

Thanks.

Stove Fan

mylomac wrote: »

Hi stove fan,

I will de arranging a site visit. A local stores offer a survey for 3o euro which I'll be ahappy to pay for to get it right.

On your point
"The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder."

I am in a bungalow .The cylinder is in the hot-press, raised up around 1 metre, with room to rise another couple of feet if required.
My idea on how this might work is that, the stove would be at ground level, the pipes would comes out the back, go down a couple of feet into the ground, travel along under the floor to the hot press and rise up the 1 metre or so to the cylinder.
Is this a problem in terms of a constant rise to the cylinder ? Can I not go down from the stove to put the pipework into the ground to travel back to the cylinder ? or do the pipes have to travel at least horizontally from the stove to the hot press before rising to the cylinder ?

Thanks.

Yes, they can either run horizontally but rising slightly then vertical or just run vertical from the stove. Ie always rising, no dips to cut off the gravity flow.

Running the pipes down from the stove and under the floor across the room wouldn't allow gravity circulation. It wouldn't have any means of dissipating the heat in the backboiler in the event of the pump not running due to a powercut and so the water inside would boil.

If you have the height in the loft best to move/raise the cylinder and cold water tank into it. At least then you can run gravity pipework up into the loft and across to the cylinder. The flow pipe can then rise to the top cylinder coil. The return slightly ralling back to the stove.

This is how I plumbed mine. A gravity rad is in the same room as the stove and the hot flow comes from the attic drops down to the rad all in 3/4 inch copper and then runs under the wooden floor and tees into the return on the back of the boiler stove.

I am a plumber by trade, used to install Worcester gas combi boilers and heating systems a few years ago now.

Stove Fan:)

MrsG09

Hi there,
I am hoping to get a stove with boiler installed in our house, currently have gas heating but open plan kitchen is cold all the time.
Could anyone recommend a surveyor or installer in south Dublin I could contact to price for me?

Thank you

Katie OS

Hi Stove Fan, Am looking at getting a boiler stove installed to run with my oil central heating. Live in a bungalow. Is this going to be a major job? Looking at wainsford 18kw boiler stove? Any recommendations or have you had any negative remarks re wainsford?
Totally headwreaked looking at all the different stoves. Thanks for any advice you can give
Katie OS