STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

gmisk

van_beano wrote: »

Got a new mantelpiece, 5kw non-boiler insert stove, hearth and chimney lined last year for €2,400. They took the old fireplace out and took it away. Worked perfectly over the winter, burned kiln dried oak and turf in it.

Used a Dublin based company out in Kylemore Park North.

Would you mind sending me a PM with their details?

van_beano

gmisk wrote: »

Would you mind sending me a PM with their details?

PM sent. See Post 5137 for the work they did

Skippy along

Hi there
My sister is getting a multi fuel stove she has a marble fireplace was told by a few people that the marble fireplace would not be suitable due to the heat coming from the stove... first I heard of this... ... Looking at the Henley Arklow 7kw stove

Forge83

Skippy along wrote: »

Hi there
My sister is getting a multi fuel stove she has a marble fireplace was told by a few people that the marble fireplace would not be suitable due to the heat coming from the stove... first I heard of this... ... Looking at the Henley Arklow 7kw stove

The marble surround itself should be fine.
There would be a concern about the hearth and insert cracking and discolouring from the heat of the stove. It may be fine, it may not. On the side of caution the hearth and insert should be replaced with the likes of black granite.

Outkast_IRE

Skippy along wrote: »

Hi there
My sister is getting a multi fuel stove she has a marble fireplace was told by a few people that the marble fireplace would not be suitable due to the heat coming from the stove... first I heard of this... ... Looking at the Henley Arklow 7kw stove

I think the main concern is the piece of marble under the stove needs a cut/joint in the middle in it, it cant be one long continous piece. That is my understanding of it .

Skippy along

Ok I'm here with here now... Thanks very much for explaining.. Was just looking out for her thanks again guys

seamus

Yeah, we had a similar question, we were looking for a very low profile hearth, preferably in a single piece. But the heat that comes out of modern stoves is much greater than your traditional open fire (gas or solid fuel), that you often can't just pull it out and slot the stove into the existing fireplace. You need to change almost everything.

kman4

Anyone have any experience of Heat Design Stoves? Thinking of putting in their 18kw insert boiler into our house. Stove has a very high efficiency rating and the output should be enough for our Rads.

Thanks

J6P

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone has any experience of the stanley solis900 cassette stove?

Kildarestoves recently done a survey for us and this looks like an option for us.

Any info much appreciated.

Doug Stamper

Just looking for some advise on a boiler stove issue.
We installed our Stanley Lismore boiler stove two years ago. I’m wondering is it possible to disconnect and remove the back boiler from the stove?
We need a stove that we can use when we have no electricity... last winter was a disaster!
Any advice would be great.

Cathellen

Sorry can't help you but I'd be interested in any replies to your guery. I have a Stanley Lismore for 5 years and found it very unsatisfactory. I contacted Stanley but never got it to heat rads or room satisfactorly. Even when full on you can touch the stove. Are you happy with yours??

Mickeroo

Boiler stoves don't send a lot of heat to the room, you'd be better off disconnecting back boiler and replacing with a dedicated non boiler stove imo.

Doug Stamper

To be honest, no! Not sure if it’s the stove itself or a problem with the plumbing. We have plenty of hot water but can’t seem to get it to circulate to the rads. It may be an issue with the SystemLink box. Our builder’s plumber fitted it and won’t take calls/texts!
But we are just sick of it now and would like it to be a non boiler so at least we can get some heat during storms etc.

Doug Stamper

Mickeroo wrote: »

Boiler stoves don't send a lot of heat to the room, you'd be better off disconnecting back boiler and replacing with a dedicated non boiler stove imo.

Yes, we were thinking that or maybe we should put a stove in the other room... more expense unfortunately

Mickeroo

Definitely sounds like it's just not being pumped. get a different plumber to look at it. Do you hear a pump kicking in when it's up to heat?

I caveat this by saying I'm no expert on these things and am not a plumber but if the water is currently not being pumped to the rads then it's likely the stove/system is behaving in the same way it would if you had no power.

goat2

Doug Stamper wrote: »

To be honest, no! Not sure if it’s the stove itself or a problem with the plumbing. We have plenty of hot water but can’t seem to get it to circulate to the rads. It may be an issue with the SystemLink box. Our builder’s plumber fitted it and won’t take calls/texts!
But we are just sick of it now and would like it to be a non boiler so at least we can get some heat during storms etc.

I bought an Eco fan for the top of my non boiler stove, It is brilliant, blows the heat out into room from top of stove, does not need battery or electricity, the heat from the stove powers it, by magnetics running a motor, with metals expanding and magnets coming into force, I would highly recommend it, Many people that have seen it work in my place, go on to buy it for their won home and they find it is what it says, you could feel the warm air as you pass a few feet from it

Shefwedfan

goat2 wrote: »

I bought an Eco fan for the top of my non boiler stove, It is brilliant, blows the heat out into room from top of stove, does not need battery or electricity, the heat from the stove powers it, by magnetics running a motor, with metals expanding and magnets coming into force, I would highly recommend it, Many people that have seen it work in my place, go on to buy it for their won home and they find it is what it says, you could feel the warm air as you pass a few feet from it

How can a fan pump water to the radiators?

Shefwedfan

Doug Stamper wrote: »

To be honest, no! Not sure if it’s the stove itself or a problem with the plumbing. We have plenty of hot water but can’t seem to get it to circulate to the rads. It may be an issue with the SystemLink box. Our builder’s plumber fitted it and won’t take calls/texts!
But we are just sick of it now and would like it to be a non boiler so at least we can get some heat during storms etc.

Is it heating the water for the taps and not the radiators?

If so then you will have a value on a pipe.....this lets water to radiators and then into hot water cylinder. It is turned too much and you are putting all the hot water in to heat the water in cylinder and not to the radiators......

Mickeroo wrote: »

Boiler stoves don't send a lot of heat to the room, you'd be better off disconnecting back boiler and replacing with a dedicated non boiler stove imo.

I have a Glenmore 30b. When it heats the house it will certainly heat the room.....if I have it going all day and it will have to house toasty you have to keep all the doors in room open to let the heat go into other rooms. One of the days I have to open windows to let the heat outside as it just got too warm in the room....

It is a huge stove and even a couple of hours after it goes out it will still be releasing heat into the room, at that stage it wont be warm enough to heat the water to pump to house

Doug Stamper

Mickeroo wrote: »

Definitely sounds like it's just not being pumped. get a different plumber to look at it. Do you hear a pump kicking in when it's up to heat.

Yes the circulating pump kicks in. Tried two plumbers-one hadn’t a clue and the other guy is to call again to have a look! Thanks for info... I will get to the bottom of it!

Doug Stamper

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Is it heating the water for the taps and not the radiators?

If so then you will have a value on a pipe.....this lets water to radiators and then into hot water cylinder.....

Yes water is piping hot in the taps-will look for that valve... thanks a mill ShefWedFan.

chuck eastwood

Doug Stamper wrote: »

Yes water is piping hot in the taps-will look for that valve... thanks a mill ShefWedFan.

Hi. I installed a Stanley lismore myself with a system link. Simply put, most plumbers I spoke to hadnt heard of it off I wasn't happy with the proposed use by them. Anyway as a pipe fitter not plumber I bit the bullet and did it myself.
Mine after maybeand hour and a half will heat four doubles and three single rads. The room it's in is 4Mx5M. Definitely puts out enough heat for that room but the max output to the room is about 4.5kw from memory. I burn a mix of nuggets (as base for other fuels) timber and a few briquettes.
So the set up.
Is it a combi system will oil heating.

Is there and injector Tee on the return from the hot water coil to slow the water/heat transfer.

What size pumps and pipes are feeding the rads.

Is there a pump from the stove feeding the box. Some plumber I spoke to assumed gravity would be enough.

We the stove sized to suit your needs or bought on looks.

*** do not fire up that stove even if you disconnect and leave the boiler sideopen to atmosphere. It is designed to have heat transefered away through gravity fed and or thermostatic controlled pumped water.
Can you attach a photo or two of the piping

Doug Stamper

chuck eastwood wrote: »

So the set up.
Is it a combi system will oil heating.

Is there and injector Tee on the return from the hot water coil to slow the water/heat transfer.

What size pumps and pipes are feeding the rads.

Is there a pump from the stove feeding the box. Some plumber I spoke to assumed gravity would be enough.

We the stove sized to suit your needs or bought on looks.

Thanks Chuck for the reply -
Yes we have oil (can heat water & rads) and solar for hot water as well.
I am not sure if there is an injector tee (hopefully you will see one in pics attached).

Yes the stove was specced by the plumber and stove supplier for our house to feed hot water and 6 double rads.

Their is a thermostat connected to a pipe and the pump kicks in once it goes over a certain temperature.

Having fired it up and looked at it last night again with the info I got yesterday - The issue seems to be that the other pump doesn't kick in to circulate it to the rads. (pic attached)

As it is all connected to the system link box I'm now thinking that it is a wiring issue rather than a plumbing one??

*****Edit: https://imgur.com/a/YTpmSKM

Wearb

Doug Stamper wrote: »

Thanks Chuck for the reply -
Yes we have oil (can heat water & rads) and solar for hot water as well.
I am not sure if there is an injector tee (hopefully you will see one in pics attached).

Yes the stove was specced by the plumber and stove supplier for our house to feed hot water and 6 double rads.

Their is a thermostat connected to a pipe and the pump kicks in once it goes over a certain temperature.

Having fired it up and looked at it last night again with the info I got yesterday - The issue seems to be that the other pump doesn't kick in to circulate it to the rads. (pic attached)

As it is all connected to the system link box I'm now thinking that it is a wiring issue rather than a plumbing one??

*****Edit: Can't seem to add photos at the moment as only a new member - will try again later today when on home computer.

If you pm the photos links to me, I will post them here.

Doug Stamper

Think I got it sorted with imgur?!

chuck eastwood

Wearb wrote: »

If you pm the photos links to me, I will post them here.

It could well be a faulty pipe thermostat. I'll attach a photo of mine. I have mine on the top pipe (heat/flow) it's about 600mm from the stove. Any more and you won't get a true reading. So turn the dial on the stat down to below room temp and it should click and turn on the circulating pump. If it doesn't then get a sparks or plumber to change it.

The idea of an injector Tee is to keep the hot water flow in the active system rather than recirculating it all through the stove. It gives priority to in my case the system link instead of splitting flow equally between the cylinder coil and system link. Yours should be the same.

6 double rads is the max the lismore will handle but it should get and keep them at a decent temp. It's difficult to tell anything from those photos as nothing is labelled and I can't see the system link configuration

Bassfish

Hi all, recently moved into a new build with an inset dry stove. Am I right in thinking that for a brand new stove you need to 'season' it by building the fires up gradually? I.e just light a bunch of kindling the first time, small logs the second time etc?
I have no intention of using coal in it as its an A rated house and the stove is only for extra comfort. Nice to have as the evenings draw in though!
Cheers for any tips.

chuck eastwood

Bassfish wrote: »

Hi all, recently moved into a new build with an inset dry stove. Am I right in thinking that for a brand new stove you need to 'season' it by building the fires up gradually? I.e just light a bunch of kindling the first time, small logs the second time etc?
I have no intention of using coal in it as its an A rated house and the stove is only for extra comfort. Nice to have as the evenings draw in though!
Cheers for any tips.

Nope. Fire it up, check for leaks it's there is a boiler and drive her on. From an engineering point of view there is absolutely no need to break in a stove

Bassfish

chuck eastwood wrote: »

Nope. Fire it up, check for leaks it's there is a boiler and drive her on. From an engineering point of view there is absolutely no need to break in a stove

Perfect, thanks a million. I had heard the internal surface can crack if for example you put a big heap of coal in day one. There's no boiler connected. The builder told us it's totally unnecessary in our house, people just like them so they put them in.

Forge83

chuck eastwood wrote: »

Nope. Fire it up, check for leaks it's there is a boiler and drive her on. From an engineering point of view there is absolutely no need to break in a stove

Are you having a laugh? Read the manual. Every stove manual will tell you to always start with small fires and never start with a large fire.
“When lighting your stove for the first time it is advised to only light small fires. This is because when you first light the stove residue from the manufacturing process (glues, paint, seals etc.) start to burn off and smoke as the stove adjusts to the heat. It will take about 4 to 6 hours at least for your stove to be “burnt in”.”

Henryhill2

I've a Stanley oisin stove with a claypot adapter fitted to the chimney

I'm using it about 4 months of the year,does the chimney need cleaning every year?

There was hardly any soot last time