The Hamster Clinic (or the Repair Advice Thread)

zerohamster

gsxr1 wrote: »

Hi. panic is setting in.

I took the back off my 1000d and removed the board to see if the usb port could be fixed.

the usb socket fell out . All connections where broken.

After clipping all the ribbon strips in again and screwing back together
the stutter repeats 3 times very fast and I get an error 99 message on the screen.
If i squeeze the case the stutter start firing again in rapid succession.

I took it apart again twice only to get the exact same bad result. T

The cam wont work with any button.

It was working fine before I started.

Help.

OK so the USB could actually be repairable if it didn't break off the lands but that's besides the main factor.

I'm hoping you haven't damaged the main PCB when handling it but just to not that the fact that pressing the case in changes behaviour you know it is a connection causing at least some of the problems you are experiencing.

From what you describe, what I believe you have done is forgotten the bottom fpc in correctly (either upside down or not in at all and under the main boards).
It should be coming from just under the tripod plate at the bottom of the main fpc when the case is off and should not be under any pressure from the case which it seems to be.

I would be glad to have a look at it for you and can see if the USB is repairable but also to make sure everything is connected.
Shoot me a PM if you want more details.

gsxr1

Thanks. Pm sent.


Why do I do this to myself:(

zerohamster

gsxr1 wrote: »

Thanks. Pm sent.


Why do I do this to myself:(

It happens...that sinking feeling is the worst.

gsxr1

Hi Zero. Sorry to bother ya with more questions.

Currently I believe the camera to be a write of as far as professional repair and new parts go.
But I have sourced a broken 1000d which takes blank white photo's.

The other broken 1000d does not have the err99 .

Would the bad board on my canon benefit from the other cams parts?

I know this is a fairly risky thing to answer as you have not inspected them , but from what I seen on mine, the board the SD card and sensor are connected to might be the one that processes images and not the one I am having trouble with.

Have you any thoughts on this?

zerohamster

gsxr1 wrote: »

Hi Zero. Sorry to bother ya with more questions.

Currently I believe the camera to be a write of as far as professional repair and new parts go.
But I have sourced a broken 1000d which takes blank white photo's.

The other broken 1000d does not have the err99 .

Would the bad board on my canon benefit from the other cams parts?

I know this is a fairly risky thing to answer as you have not inspected them , but from what I seen on mine, the board the SD card and sensor are connected to might be the one that processes images and not the one I am having trouble with.

Have you any thoughts on this?

No worries, sure that's what the thread is here for

The most likely case would be that the main PCB on the other camera would be a donor part to your camera as well as the FPC that was damaged.
You will need service software to change the calibrations however as they are body specific (shutter sync,WB, AF, AE etc...) and the donor board would need to be adjusted to the new body.

Normally I could pull the calibration data from the old board and transfer across to the donor board but without the USB connection that isn't possible (unless the connection is fixable which would defy the point).

The other camera that takes white shots would seem like the sensor could be causing the problem rather than the main PCB which also processes images. (try taking shots in raw and if that came out ok you could rule out the sensor anyway).

There are 2 major boards in the 1000d (not including small boards in the top cover, the IF board and on the shutter, AF and AE units), the Main PCB and the DC/DC.
The DC/DC is purely for power distribution and supply. The Main PCB is the heart of the camera and is where the processor and eeprom (where the firmware and most calibrations are stored) as well as being the hub for all systems to connect to.
I still think that the initial fault was caused by an FPC being pinched or something but then of course there is the damaged FPC and possibly damage from handling the Main PCB.
If the camera is around 10k actuations it still should have a long life ahead of it so I really think it would be worth looking at considering the only visible damage are the USB and FPC (which are very cheap to get).

I have service software for the 1000d and would be happy to diagnose both cameras if needed for you.
If you have the other camera made available to you for free or for a low cost then it would probably be worth taking a chance on it to harvest the main board as they are about €100 for the part alone new.

Again, I'm happy to have a look at it for you so to save you anguish from opening it up again and also being able to use service software on it is a massively helpful resource to have.

Let me know what you think.


EDIT:I wrote this pretty quickly so please excuse any mistakes I may have made.

gsxr1

zerohamster wrote: »

No worries, sure that's what the thread is here for

The most likely case would be that the main PCB on the other camera would be a donor part to your camera as well as the FPC that was damaged.
You will need service software to change the calibrations however as they are body specific (shutter sync,WB, AF, AE etc...) and the donor board would need to be adjusted to the new body.

Normally I could pull the calibration data from the old board and transfer across to the donor board but without the USB connection that isn't possible (unless the connection is fixable which would defy the point).

The other camera that takes white shots would seem like the sensor could be causing the problem rather than the main PCB which also processes images. (try taking shots in raw and if that came out ok you could rule out the sensor anyway).

There are 2 major boards in the 1000d (not including small boards in the top cover, the IF board and on the shutter, AF and AE units), the Main PCB and the DC/DC.
The DC/DC is purely for power distribution and supply. The Main PCB is the heart of the camera and is where the processor and eeprom (where the firmware and most calibrations are stored) as well as being the hub for all systems to connect to.
I still think that the initial fault was caused by an FPC being pinched or something but then of course there is the damaged FPC and possibly damage from handling the Main PCB.
If the camera is around 10k actuations it still should have a long life ahead of it so I really think it would be worth looking at considering the only visible damage are the USB and FPC (which are very cheap to get).

I have service software for the 1000d and would be happy to diagnose both cameras if needed for you.
If you have the other camera made available to you for free or for a low cost then it would probably be worth taking a chance on it to harvest the main board as they are about €100 for the part alone new.

Again, I'm happy to have a look at it for you so to save you anguish from opening it up again and also being able to use service software on it is a massively helpful resource to have.

Let me know what you think.


EDIT:I wrote this pretty quickly so please excuse any mistakes I may have made.

Thanks. Im bidding on the donor . I will get back to you when I win it.

Might be worth sending for professional fix if I get the donor at the right money.
I will get back to you when I win it.

I have broken something that is not apparent to me.

Leftyflip

Hiya Zerohamster,
I have a Yongnuo flash gun here that will not turn on, done all the usual crap, changing batteries and all, but nothing, so smell of burning, I'm at a loss - would you be able to take a look for me?

Ger.

fitzseller

If anyone can give advice on the following problem with my DSLR, much appreciated.

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body, Lens

Model: Canon EOS 450D / Digital Rebel XSi

Fault: Only 1 manual focus option works but the resulting photo is blured. Automatic and many other options are not responding when trying to take photo. Most of buttons are not responding to clicks.

When/how it happened:
Camera was placed into a bag, sometime later leaking bottle of 7up filled the bag to about 1-2 inches.
So a lot of the camera was soaked.

zerohamster

Leftyflip wrote: »

Hiya Zerohamster,
I have a Yongnuo flash gun here that will not turn on, done all the usual crap, changing batteries and all, but nothing, so smell of burning, I'm at a loss - would you be able to take a look for me?

Ger.

Sorry for late reply, I'd be happy to although depending on the model these fail often and are quite cheaply made as far as I have heard.

zerohamster

fitzseller wrote: »

If anyone can give advice on the following problem with my DSLR, much appreciated.

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body, Lens

Model: Canon EOS 450D / Digital Rebel XSi

Fault: Only 1 manual focus option works but the resulting photo is blured. Automatic and many other options are not responding when trying to take photo. Most of buttons are not responding to clicks.

When/how it happened:
Camera was placed into a bag, sometime later leaking bottle of 7up filled the bag to about 1-2 inches.
So a lot of the camera was soaked.

Water/liquid damage is pretty hard to make a guess at especially when it's a soft drink or something other than water as it leaves a sticky residue which must be cleaned properly.
I could have a look at it and determine what is damaged or if it can be revived but I can't speculate as to the many things that could be wrong when this type of damage occurs as you can imagine.
PM me for more details if you'd like.

vectra

Posting for a friend of mine so details are only as I was told

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR

Model: (40D I think )

Fault: Faulty Card reader.

When/how it happened: Several months ago, no idea as to how it happened,
He did get a set of precision screwdrivers and opened it to have a look as he thought it would be going in the bin anyway. He found the 2 pins were broken off the card reader connections, He did get it put back together,

Any idea if/where this could be repaired and would it be a viable fix?
Thanks

krussell

Hi Hampster, you’ve come recommended from two sources so here goes. Any help or advise you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR

Model: (1000D)

Fault: Error 99 if left idle for a few minutes .

When/how it happened: Have the problem for a few months. Error occurs if I don’t take a photograph for a few minutes, removing the battery clears it. I’ve tried the usual methods to identify the problem, tried different Canon lenses, and cleaned the lens contacts with no improvement. Tried different SD cards, no improvement. Tried fully charging battery with no improvement but haven’t been able to try a different battery. Switched off the power save mode to see if that would help but no change. The one thing that was unusual was that if I shot remotely from a PC by connecting the camera via usb the issue doesn’t occur, I don’t know what this points to (SD card maybe). Checked the actuations and I’m coming up to 20k which I assume is within life of the shutter and finally updated the firmware again to not avail. Looking to upgrade and sell this second hand so don’t want to put a lot of money into it.

zerohamster

krussell wrote: »

Hi Hampster, you’ve come recommended from two sources so here goes. Any help or advise you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR

Model: (1000D)

Fault: Error 99 if left idle for a few minutes .

When/how it happened: Have the problem for a few months. Error occurs if I don’t take a photograph for a few minutes, removing the battery clears it. I’ve tried the usual methods to identify the problem, tried different Canon lenses, and cleaned the lens contacts with no improvement. Tried different SD cards, no improvement. Tried fully charging battery with no improvement but haven’t been able to try a different battery. Switched off the power save mode to see if that would help but no change. The one thing that was unusual was that if I shot remotely from a PC by connecting the camera via usb the issue doesn’t occur, I don’t know what this points to (SD card maybe). Checked the actuations and I’m coming up to 20k which I assume is within life of the shutter and finally updated the firmware again to not avail. Looking to upgrade and sell this second hand so don’t want to put a lot of money into it.

I can't really guess what could be causing this with much accuracy as error 99 is a broad error code with a lot of sub error codes which point to what is actually wrong.

I actually have service software for the 1000D and can read the sub errors but of course would have to hook up the camera to my PC.

The shutter is well under what it is roughly rated to (around 50k) and nothing would be causing the shutter to move whist idle so it's likely not related to that.

PM me for more details as I can find out what is causing the error for you.

Seth Rogen

I've two lenses that needs to be repaired

Canon 50mm 1.4 with stuck focus ring
Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 Lens Aperture doesn't work

Canon - I've got a quote a while ago from Camera Center in Blanch (bought it there) they can fix it in UK for about over 200euro which i didnt do and instead ive found simple tutorial online how to fix by straightening one part
link
which i did and it worked fine until lens was dropped and the same problem occurred but this time above techinque didn't work, it looks like AF mechanism works fine it just doesn't wanna move either on AF or manually

Tokina - completely different story with it, didn't find any information's online on this issue, as i said Aperture doesn't work and when its mounted onto camera it looks like its behind some sort of filter it's much darker like few stops lower than naturally

Adrian.Sadlier

Hi Zerohamster

I have a problem with a Nikon 50mm f1.4g af-s lens.

It appears to focus properly when viewed through the vewfinder, giving "green" focus light but the shots appear to be out of focus. It doesn't look like a front or rear focussing issue - just like poor focus or if the focus has slipped!

It happens on both my d7000 and F5. But is doesn't seem to happen on every shot or to the same extent when it does (if that makes sense).

dinneenp

Pentax K-7 shutter dial problem-

it would go the right direction and then the speed would jump back the wrong way and then continue the right way- e.g.
when scrolling through the dial it doesn't go to all the shutter speeds- 4,000 down through the next few settings okay but at about 500 it jumps back up to 1000 or higher.
I googled it and someone said they fixed it with electrical cleaner. Is this something you would/wouldn't recommend to try and would WD40 do the job?

zerohamster

Seth Rogen wrote: »

I've two lenses that needs to be repaired

Canon 50mm 1.4 with stuck focus ring
Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 Lens Aperture doesn't work

Canon - I've got a quote a while ago from Camera Center in Blanch (bought it there) they can fix it in UK for about over 200euro which i didnt do and instead ive found simple tutorial online how to fix by straightening one part
link
which i did and it worked fine until lens was dropped and the same problem occurred but this time above techinque didn't work, it looks like AF mechanism works fine it just doesn't wanna move either on AF or manually

Tokina - completely different story with it, didn't find any information's online on this issue, as i said Aperture doesn't work and when its mounted onto camera it looks like its behind some sort of filter it's much darker like few stops lower than naturally

Yeah that is a huge amount to fix that problem even when considering replacing the parts.
I'd be happy to look at it for you and see what's causing the problem this time (sometimes it can be bent too far to be easilily remedied as it can bend laterally as well as vertically.

It is very hard to find info on Tokina lens faults online as they are not as common as the 50mm f/1.4 for example but from what you describe it is the aperture that has jammed/stopped functioning.

PM me for more details if you would like.

zerohamster

Adrian.Sadlier wrote: »

Hi Zerohamster

I have a problem with a Nikon 50mm f1.4g af-s lens.

It appears to focus properly when viewed through the vewfinder, giving "green" focus light but the shots appear to be out of focus. It doesn't look like a front or rear focussing issue - just like poor focus or if the focus has slipped!

It happens on both my d7000 and F5. But is doesn't seem to happen on every shot or to the same extent when it does (if that makes sense).

Sounds like an odd one there if it gives confirmation on both bodies whilst not being in focus. When you rotate the focus ring can you hear a gritty sound or a scraping sound as there are small metal combs that report the focal distance to the body and if that was bent you could get a problem like this and it would usually be audible when focusing (slightly).
I'd be happy to take a look at it and see what is causing the fault for you.

zerohamster

dinneenp wrote: »

Pentax K-7 shutter dial problem-

it would go the right direction and then the speed would jump back the wrong way and then continue the right way- e.g.
when scrolling through the dial it doesn't go to all the shutter speeds- 4,000 down through the next few settings okay but at about 500 it jumps back up to 1000 or higher.
I googled it and someone said they fixed it with electrical cleaner. Is this something you would/wouldn't recommend to try and would WD40 do the job?

Yeah it sounds like the dial contacts under the dial not functioning correctly although in my experience this usually can't be remedied by cleaning as it is usually one of two contacts being damaged that caused this behaviour but it could also be dirty.

There is no way to externally clean the contacts of an internal switch or dial and anywhere that suggests otherwise is sending you on the fast track to causing damage to your camera so I wouldn't recommend attempting to clean the switch unless you can safely dismantle the camera and switch and are confident to do so but if not PM me.


Never use WD40 to clean anything electronic or put it anywhere near your camera as it will destroy it.
If you are going to clean bits of the camera or a switch for example then use isopropyl alcohol as this will clean really well and it will not cause any damage or shorting in the camera and it will leave minimal residue if any at all.

dinneenp

zerohamster wrote: »

Yeah it sounds like the dial contacts under the dial not functioning correctly although in my experience this usually can't be remedied by cleaning as it is usually one of two contacts being damaged that caused this behaviour but it could also be dirty.

There is no way to externally clean the contacts of an internal switch or dial and anywhere that suggests otherwise is sending you on the fast track to causing damage to your camera so I wouldn't recommend attempting to clean the switch unless you can safely dismantle the camera and switch and are confident to do so but if not PM me.


Never use WD40 to clean anything electronic or put it anywhere near your camera as it will destroy it.
If you are going to clean bits of the camera or a switch for example then use isopropyl alcohol as this will clean really well and it will not cause any damage or shorting in the camera and it will leave minimal residue if any at all.

Thanks. used some and it worked!

zerohamster

Was there much dirt on it when you opened it (did you use isopropyl alcohol?) or did it the contact need repeating or something.
Handy to add the solution for future reference.
Glad you got it sorted!

Doom

Make: (Fuji film)

Item: (Bridge camera)

Model: (S3880)

Fault: Dropped the camera, broke off the battery cover, still works when taped up, but I would like to get it fixed properly or has anyone got something similar that they are scrapping for parts, thanks.

musicinmouth

Make: Panasonic Lumix

Item: Lens

Model: FZ38

Fault: On playback mode it's fine. But when I turn it on to camera mode, the picture looks really out of focus and then it says "Please turn camera off and on again."

When/how it happened: This summer I took photos at a beach and sand got in the camera. I know!

I am just wondering if there is somewhere I can take this to get it repaired in Cork? I took to a couple of camera shops on Oliver Plunkett Street but they said they don't repair this type of camera. I know sand is a bad problem, but I'd like to have it checked out at least.

Thanks!

zerohamster

Doom wrote: »

Make: (Fuji film)

Item: (Bridge camera)

Model: (S3880)

Fault: Dropped the camera, broke off the battery cover, still works when taped up, but I would like to get it fixed properly or has anyone got something similar that they are scrapping for parts, thanks.

Hey,

Should be a pretty easy fix although I cannot find that model of camera (not even a broad google search pointed to a model with that number) so are you sure you have the right model number perhaps?

When you can confirm that I'll have a look around again.

zerohamster

musicinmouth wrote: »

Make: Panasonic Lumix

Item: Lens

Model: FZ38

Fault: On playback mode it's fine. But when I turn it on to camera mode, the picture looks really out of focus and then it says "Please turn camera off and on again."

When/how it happened: This summer I took photos at a beach and sand got in the camera. I know!

I am just wondering if there is somewhere I can take this to get it repaired in Cork? I took to a couple of camera shops on Oliver Plunkett Street but they said they don't repair this type of camera. I know sand is a bad problem, but I'd like to have it checked out at least.

Thanks!

Hi,

I recently had one of these with the exact same problem come in (sand in the barrel jamming the mechanism so if you want to PM for details on repair and I'll get back to you.

Whatever you do though don't forc the lens or it will just break as they aren't very strong.

krussell

krussell wrote: »

Hi Hampster, you’ve come recommended from two sources so here goes. Any help or advise you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR

Model: (1000D)

Fault: Error 99 if left idle for a few minutes .

When/how it happened: Have the problem for a few months. Error occurs if I don’t take a photograph for a few minutes, removing the battery clears it. I’ve tried the usual methods to identify the problem, tried different Canon lenses, and cleaned the lens contacts with no improvement. Tried different SD cards, no improvement. Tried fully charging battery with no improvement but haven’t been able to try a different battery. Switched off the power save mode to see if that would help but no change. The one thing that was unusual was that if I shot remotely from a PC by connecting the camera via usb the issue doesn’t occur, I don’t know what this points to (SD card maybe). Checked the actuations and I’m coming up to 20k which I assume is within life of the shutter and finally updated the firmware again to not avail. Looking to upgrade and sell this second hand so don’t want to put a lot of money into it.

Just by way of recommendation, Zero hamster had a look at this problem for me, had it sorted in a few days, responsible rates and excellent updates on progress and details of the problem. Would highly recommend him.

fullerand

Sorry for the dupe, I posted this in the main thread before spotting the sticky (am on a phone).

Hello from my honeymoon in Argentina

I have a Canon Powershot G11 which I've loved for the past 2.5 years. I think the sensor might have packed it in today, would really like to have a few second opinions if some of ye have a chance to look please.

The camera was doing grand today - see before.jpg attached. A few hours later and all pics are overexposed and have errors - see after1.jpg ( the first pic taken after before.jpg) and after2.jpg attached. I'm pretty sure the camera didn't take a knock during the interval.

At first I thought it was leaking light (it took a knock about a year ago which separated the outer shell a bit from the main body, but had no other impact)... but when I block out the lens and take a photo, the result is a fully-black picture. Is that a reasonable assumption?

Any ideas or suggestions? Will be a pity to have to take the remaining honeymoon photos on my phone

Thanks

zerohamster

fullerand wrote: »

Sorry for the dupe, I posted this in the main thread before spotting the sticky (am on a phone).

Hello from my honeymoon in Argentina

I have a Canon Powershot G11 which I've loved for the past 2.5 years. I think the sensor might have packed it in today, would really like to have a few second opinions if some of ye have a chance to look please.

The camera was doing grand today - see before.jpg attached. A few hours later and all pics are overexposed and have errors - see after1.jpg ( the first pic taken after before.jpg) and after2.jpg attached. I'm pretty sure the camera didn't take a knock during the interval.

At first I thought it was leaking light (it took a knock about a year ago which separated the outer shell a bit from the main body, but had no other impact)... but when I block out the lens and take a photo, the result is a fully-black picture. Is that a reasonable assumption?

Any ideas or suggestions? Will be a pity to have to take the remaining honeymoon photos on my phone

Thanks

Seems like it could be the sensor alright...either that or the main PCB is faulty and causing numerous faults (image processing, Exposure errors).

The sensor part is about €45 so it's not too expensive parts wise compared to DSLRs.
I don't think there is anything you can do yourself to solve this one bar leaving the battery out for a while.

When you are back I would be happy to have a look at it for you?

Is it humid where you are or is the a huge temperature difference between inside and outside?
Condensation can cause shorting and can cause parts to fail also if that was a factor as the sensor isn't usually a part that fails on cameras (it happens but just isn't as common as other parts failing).

fullerand

Thanks a mill for the quick reply, Zerohamster.

I forgot to mention that the shots look fine in the LCD display before the photos are actually taken. Also, videos are coming out fine. I was thinking maybe the camera uses different sensors for these purposes - is that likely?

I tried a new sdcard in the camera, no change, all of the photos coming out as per the attachments above.

Re humidity and temperature, not much of an issue where I am now (very hot and humid where I was a week ago, though).

Still seems like a dud sensor to you? I'll be home in a couple of weeks, will get in touch if I'm not sorted by then!

zerohamster

fullerand wrote: »

Thanks a mill for the quick reply, Zerohamster.

I forgot to mention that the shots look fine in the LCD display before the photos are actually taken. Also, videos are coming out fine. I was thinking maybe the camera uses different sensors for these purposes - is that likely?

I tried a new sdcard in the camera, no change, all of the photos coming out as per the attachments above.

Re humidity and temperature, not much of an issue where I am now (very hot and humid where I was a week ago, though).

Still seems like a dud sensor to you? I'll be home in a couple of weeks, will get in touch if I'm not sorted by then!

Ahhh that actually changes things quite a bit. If the image is being displayed correctly whilst composing the shot and also in video then it isn't your sensor at fault.

It looks to be a fault with the image processing side of things. I'm not sure if you are familiar with using RAW format for taking photos but try taking a shot with RAW and if you don't have any software to open RAW files like photoshop then even if you could upload it online I can check it out and see if the behaviour is still there.

Basically if there is a fault with a PCB effecting the image processing side of things then your images will be messed up using JPG but I would believe that using RAW this might not happen and could narrow it down a bit. (If the RAW image is also messed up it doesn't rule that out, but if it does come out ok then it point to a specific function being faulty.
Another thing to mention is that if the RAW photos look ok then you can use that for the duration of the time you are away and at least still have a working camera (and then just batch process the shots when home which is easy and if you have never used RAW before I can point you in the right direction).

Things you can try out would be reset camera to factory settings and see if that helps.
Failing that, update the firmware and see if that solves the problem.

Let us know how you get on and I'll do my best to help get it sorted as having a camera on your honeymoon would certainly be a plus.

Hope that helps.