The Hamster Clinic (or the Repair Advice Thread)

CabanSail

This is a thread for anyone having technical problems with Cameras and/or Accessories. Post your problem here and others with technical expertise, or those that may have had similar problems, can post solutions and advice.

Please format your requests in the following manner;

Make: (ie. Canon, Nikon, Fuji etc)

Item: (Compact Camera, DSLR Body, Lens, Speedlight, etc)

Model: (ie 5D MkII, D300, X 100, etc)

Fault: A description of the fault.

When/how it happened:


To make this work we ask;

• that posts are kept strictly on topic.

• that information be as detailed and precise as possible.

• you read through the thread first to see if an answer has already been given.

To those giving advice, we appreciate your involvement. It is realised that it may be recommended that items be taken to a workshop or business for repair/service. To keep within the policy of the site, the offering of a service must not be seen as Shilling or Advertising. The Moderators will keep an eye on this and apply discretion.

Lastly, while advice will be offered in good faith, the posters, Moderators and Boards.ie take no responsibility for any damage or losses incurred. It is the responsibility of those receiving this advice to assess the merits of the information and to act accordingly. If in doubt seek other opinions elsewhere.

Hopefully this will be a useful service to this community.

CabanSail

OK - To kick things off .....


Make: Nikon

Item: Speedlight

Model: SB-900

Fault: Broken/displaced case

When/how it happened:

I was shooting at an event recently. Had the SB-900 mounted on the Camera, which in turn was on a mono-pod. This was left across a chair for a short while to give assistance elsewhere. The chair got bumped and the whole lot fell. The case came apart and battery door fell off. I was able to push these together and the flash worked fine.

What I need to know is;

• How do I disassemble the flash to repair it?
• Is this a job that I should attempt myself?
• If required, would the case be available/expensive?

zerohamster

Hi Tony,

Sounds like an unlucky one there!

When you say the case do you mean the bottom half of the flash rather than the bounce head?

First things first you would need to discharge the main condenser (a huge capacitor) through two holes on the right hand side of the head when you remove the rubber round hinge cover.
WARNING: If you cannot discharge the main condenser then I would not continue as you have a very high risk of giving yourself a serious shocking and at the same time damaging the flash circuitry.

If it is the bottom cases that needs replacing then first remove the four screws you can see holding the foot mount on and very carefully removing the connectors as you take the mount off, what ever you do dont try to yank them as they are pitifully weak and tear easily.

Then you turn the flash head sideways so that it would be facing the roof but rotated so the beam would be infront and behind rather than to each side of you. you should see some more screws (4 screws, 2x on each side) then open the battery lid, press the bounce head lock pin and seperate the cover paying attention to two hooks at the top front.

That should give you a start on getting inside it but unfortunately the back cover is much further on and needs a lot of parts to be taken out to get to.
The front cover also needs about 12-15 parts taken off to be put on a new one so as far as repairs go it wouldn't be a case of pop each case off unfortunately.

As for the parts the front cover is available on ebay (literally just the black plastic without even the red clean plastic cover) for about €25-6 with shipping but the back (not sure of price but would probably be ~€30 judging by the front) is not available there and Nikon will most definitely not supply you with one even with the correct part number as they are very strict on the parts front to everyday peopel and also being a flash will not "be responsible" for supplying a part with the risk of shocking or damaging the flash. The same goes for any circuitry pretty much on the bodies and lenses.

I would very much not recommend doing this yourself an getting it repaired as there is such a high risk of causing injury as well as damaging the flash more apart from the procedure not being straight forward just removing the plastic and popping a new one on.

If you didnt want to get someone to repair it could you post a picture of the damage perhaps as if not bad you could possibly epoxy cracks if they weren't too bad and just use the flash (even if it looked battered) if it is operating correctly.

Hope that helps!

CabanSail

Thanks. That helps a lot.

Kbeg3

Make: Sony

Item: DSLR Body

Model: a100

Fault: Bent Compact Flash pin

When/how it happened: Not my camera but a friend's. He says he was just putting the card into the slot and it wouldn't go in. He took a closer look and one of the pins was bent.

Should he try and bend the pin back himself or will he risk breaking it off altogether? If he needs to get it repaired how much would it cost?
Thanks in advance

zerohamster

Very common fault with cameras that take CF cards.

There are a few ways to bend it back of which the best is to use a syringe needle (preferably reinforced so it doesn't bend) put over the pin and bend it back being very careful not hold as clost to the CF pin as possible so the needle doesn't just bend. You would have to be accurate enough with where you bend it to or you will just end up bending it again when you put the card in.

Failing that you could try use a single jumper from a pc motherboard (normally found where the case power switch wires connect to the motherboard pins etc...).
It would be the metal part that clamps to the wire inside the black cover at the bottom if this picture that I refer to.
They could be strong enough to give leverage and bend the pin back but obviously don't have the connector attatched to something whilst doing so and make sure the camera is off with the battery removed in case you short two pins.

Be careful not to bend other pins when trying to straighten the bent one which is why it is important to use a small implement to straighten the pin.

If the pin is seriously bent out of place then it may break or cause damage to the PCB (printed circuit board) it is attatched to requiring the PCB to be replaced. In that case it is common practice for techs to desolder the pin and replace with a new one.

If he isn't confident to do it himself or the pin is really bent out of place then I would be happy to have a look for him if you wanted to PM me? (also a picture would help determine what needs to be done if that was possible to get).

Hope that helps!

No, you're a...

Make: Panasonic

Item: Compact Camera

Model: Lumix DMC-TZ9

Fault: Cracked Screen

When/how it happened: The camera is in a case in my pocket and the screen cracked. It did not receive any considerable knocks or bumps. The screen has cracked in spider-web formation.

Can this be repaired cost effectively? Can i do it myself? Would this be covered under the warranty?

Any help or advice would be appreciated

hbr

No, you're a... wrote: »

Can this be repaired cost effectively? Can i do it myself? Would this be covered under the warranty?

TZ series screens are notoriously easy to break, so you might have
a good case for making a warranty claim.

Replacing a camera screen is similar to replacing a broken screen
in a mobile phone. There is some dismantling involved. DIY repairs
are possible, but it would help if you had some experience at this
kind of work. This video of a TZ7 repair might give some guidance.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxSLIWaSHgk

I think the TZ9 was a special model for the Dixons/Currys group.
You need to find out which screen you need. Hopefully it is the
same one used in the more common models like the TZ10.

Published specs say: 3″ screen (460k pixels)

The TZ10 screen has identical specs. Prices are around €40
on eBay. Maybe someone can confirm that the TZ10/ZS7 uses
the same screen?

zerohamster

1. Yes, getting the camera should be cost effective rather than buying another getting it repaired by someone or doing it yourself provided you can actually repair it without doing damage and can find the correct parts online.

2. Yes, although depends on many factors such as your experience in doing it before, an understanding of electronics enough not to damage the camera, mechanical understanding/problemsolving skills to get the camera apart without damaging it and your patience which would come into it if you had a lack of the other skills/wanted to rush everything.

Worst case with doing it yourself is that you end up with a semi dismantled paper weight and frustrated, best case you save yourself some money at the expense of time so it's up to you to weigh out if it's worth the risk.

3. No, not a chance unfortunately.

zerohamster

As brittle as the screens may be there isn't a chance that warranty would cover it as really a screen cracking doesn't happen by itself even if only a little pressure is involved and they simply won't cover it.

The TZ9 is basically a TZ10 with GPS and AVCHD removed and yes it was a Curry's/Dixon's special as you said. From what I have read it seems the TZ10 screens are the same as the TZ9's LCD so it should work in replacement but not 100% on that as there could be subtle differences between the two that would render them incompatible.

hbr wrote: »

TZ series screens are notoriously easy to break, so you might have
a good case for making a warranty claim.

Replacing a camera screen is similar to replacing a broken screen
in a mobile phone. There is some dismantling involved. DIY repairs
are possible, but it would help if you had some experience at this
kind of work. This video of a TZ7 repair might give some guidance.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxSLIWaSHgk

I think the TZ9 was a special model for the Dixons/Currys group.
You need to find out which screen you need. Hopefully it is the
same one used in the more common models like the TZ10.

Published specs say: 3″ screen (460k pixels)

The TZ10 screen has identical specs. Prices are around €40
on eBay. Maybe someone can confirm that the TZ10/ZS7 uses
the same screen?

No, you're a...

Thanks for all the responses.

I had a quick look at replacement screens online and they were all coming in around €40 before postage. I phoned the panasonic ireland support centre today (and like zero said) it probably wouldn't be covered under the warranty but to replace the screen would between €60-70. I don't think that's too bad as I really like the camera.

I would feel confident enough to try to repair it myself but at that price I think i'll get a professional to do it.

Cheers

kfish2oo2

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 50mm f/1.8 Mark II

Fault: Impact damage - front element has come out. The lens is effectively in 2 pieces, the main mechanism inside the lens and the front glass element along with some of the mechanics (plastic) in the other piece.

When/how it happened: Honestly no idea. I just took it out of its pack and when I tried to autofocus, there was a slight crunch the front popped out.

I sent it back to the retailer (DigitalRev) and they sent it off to a repair centre. Their reply, eventually, was that it was impact damage and therefore not under warranty.

What I'm wondering is, is it worth paying for the shipping to get it sent back to me? Is there any use for it, or should I just leave it?

zerohamster

It really depends on the shipping costs involved to be honest.
I mean if its something like €10-20 then it would be well worth it. I would be happy to have a look at it for you as sometimes it can be a very simple fault that causes the front to seperate from the main body.

Being an all plastic lens it has its weak points of which the front element clips breaking are the most common fault but it is repairable, just depends on how the rest of the inside is. PM me if you want more details anyway and I can describe it better to you.

No, you're a...

zerohamster wrote: »

As brittle as the screens may be there isn't a chance that warranty would cover it as really a screen cracking doesn't happen by itself even if only a little pressure is involved and they simply won't cover it.

Got some good news and the camera was covered under the warranty. The fault was classified as compression damage. Happy days.

zerohamster

No, you're a... wrote: »

Got some good news and the camera was covered under the warranty. The fault was classified as compression damage. Happy days.

WOW! That is great news and I'm really surprised they didn't pull a runner on it to get extra cash! Glad you got it sorted for free.

colly3

Canon EOS 450D
Hi


My much loved 450D has stopped working, well to a degree. While on holiday during the summer, a few specks of dust got into the innards while a bright spark left the lens off!! We won't go into that but..... this didn't cause any major issues. I left it into the shop where I bought it and asked for a full clean and service, got it back yesterday and have noticed it's not taking shots in AF mode. It spends forever focussing but just will not shoot.

I don't believe it was serviced or cleaned as requested as the specs of dirt are still visible. When the lens is off, it shoots like there's no tomorrow and when I turn off the AF on the lens it goes like the clappers too. Have tried a few different lenses, all the same issue. Could any of you recommend anyone who could look at this for me?

thanks

zerohamster

Hey, sounds like something is blocking your AF sensor and it is stopping the camera from focusing properly because it cant detect the correct focus when in AF mode (manual doesn't require AF confirmation so that would explain still being able to shoot in manual and without a lens).

I do repairs myself so Id be happy to have a look for you as it is hopefully just dirt on the AF sensor causing your problems which is bad show from a shop that was supposed to clean the sensor rather than add more dirt. PM me for details if you'd like.

colly3

zerohamster wrote: »

Hey, sounds like something is blocking your AF sensor and it is stopping the camera from focusing properly because it cant detect the correct focus when in AF mode (manual doesn't require AF confirmation so that would explain still being able to shoot in manual and without a lens).

I do repairs myself so Id be happy to have a look for you as it is hopefully just dirt on the AF sensor causing your problems which is bad show from a shop that was supposed to clean the sensor rather than add more dirt. PM me for details if you'd like.

Just have ZH, thanks. Yep, think the shop took the michael but in fairness, it's the first grumber I've had with them in over 20 years so I'm not going to make a fuss and they did say when I left it in that they'd have to "send it away".

thanks

dinneenp

Hi,
There's a Canon G9 with the entire lens pulled out from the body. It worked fine up until then.
Would this be repairable and is it something that you could be able to do?
I phoned Canon repairs and they said it'd need a new lens (don't know if true) and to be calibrated and charge quiet a lot to do it.

Thanks in advance,
Pa.

CabanSail

To keep things tidy in here it would be appreciated if the format from the OP was followed.

Thanks.

zerohamster

dinneenp wrote: »

Hi,
There's a Canon G9 with the entire lens pulled out from the body. It worked fine up until then.
Would this be repairable and is it something that you could be able to do?
I phoned Canon repairs and they said it'd need a new lens (don't know if true) and to be calibrated and charge quiet a lot to do it.

Thanks in advance,
Pa.

If it is just the lens pulled out then yes it would be repairable but if the entire lens assembly was ripped out then it could also mean damaging other parts which would make it probably not worth repairing for you.
To be honest it is probably not worth getting as there is a high risk other things are damaged as well as the lens mechanism as a child would not have the stregth to simply pull the lens out and would have to twist or bend with immense strength which would damage many parts as well as possibly the screw mounts inside.

At the least it would need a new lens assembly which most of the time wouldn't need adjustment but it isn't unheard of if the body electronically was calibrated to one extreme of the focus/metering tolerances and the sensor and lens assembly (come as one part) were at the other end which would require calibration (I have replaced 3 out of 3 without problems before though on the G9).

alfalad

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body

Model: 60D

Fault: Getting an "err 20" message on the LCD after it takes a couple of shots and it sounds like the shutter is trying to do something even though no buttons are being pressed.

When/how it happened: This is a brand new camera, as in the first shot it took, the gf picked it up while i was reading the manual and it took a shot and got the error message along with the sound of what i think was the shutter trying to do something. The message said to take out the battery and so i did and it took a couple of shots fine but then the error came again. Before the lens was put on it she pressed an other button (live view i think) and it made the same noise of the shutter moving while no other buttons were being pressed. I have not updated any firmware yet would this possibly solve the issue? I noticed other people who got the message were using third party flashes etc but i was using a canon 15-85 lens and nothing else so I know it's not that.

If you have any thoughts on a simple fix or settings I need to change etc. It would be a appreciated as I'd prefer not to return it as it was a gift and don't want the gf to feel bad.

Thanks in advance.

dinneenp

CabanSail wrote: »

To keep things tidy in here it would be appreciated if the format from the OP was followed.

Thanks.

Thanks & sorry. I didn't read the original post at all. Someone gave me the link to this thread.

Deano12345

alfalad wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body

Model: 60D

Fault: Getting an "err 20" message on the LCD after it takes a couple of shots and it sounds like the shutter is trying to do something even though no buttons are being pressed.

Canon say its a "Malfunctions related to the mechanical mechanism have been detected"

Try removing, and putting the battery back in, it seems that may solve the problem ! I'd imagine it may require a trip back to Canon unfortunately (im no Canon expert so maybe wait for some more advice)

alfalad

Deano12345 wrote: »

Canon say its a "Malfunctions related to the mechanical mechanism have been detected"

Try removing, and putting the battery back in, it seems that may solve the problem ! I'd imagine it may require a trip back to Canon unfortunately (im no Canon expert so maybe wait for some more advice)

Have tried that, but with no success, was hoping there might be another reason for it besides mechanical and wouldn't need to have it sent back. But as said somewhere else if the money was good then the camera should be good too.

alfalad

alfalad wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body

Model: 60D

Fault: Getting an "err 20" message on the LCD after it takes a couple of shots and it sounds like the shutter is trying to do something even though no buttons are being pressed.

When/how it happened: This is a brand new camera, as in the first shot it took, the gf picked it up while i was reading the manual and it took a shot and got the error message along with the sound of what i think was the shutter trying to do something. The message said to take out the battery and so i did and it took a couple of shots fine but then the error came again. Before the lens was put on it she pressed an other button (live view i think) and it made the same noise of the shutter moving while no other buttons were being pressed. I have not updated any firmware yet would this possibly solve the issue? I noticed other people who got the message were using third party flashes etc but i was using a canon 15-85 lens and nothing else so I know it's not that.

If you have any thoughts on a simple fix or settings I need to change etc. It would be a appreciated as I'd prefer not to return it as it was a gift and don't want the gf to feel bad.

Thanks in advance.

Anybody any thoughts on this? It would be much appreciated.

dinneenp

Make: Canon

Item: camera

Model: G9

Fault: Lens jams and Lens error reported, does not take photos

When/how it happened: dropped/just occured

I don't actually own the camera yet but there's a few on Ebay like this. I know this issue was common with the G9. Wondering if you've fixed any like this before or know if you can?
thanks.

hbr

alfalad wrote: »

Anybody any thoughts on this? It would be much appreciated.

Reset the camera to default settings.

Try using the camera with a different lens or with no lens attached.

Try a different SD card or try using the camera with no SD card.
The card should be formatted in the camera.

Try a different battery if you have a spare one. Leave the battery out
of the camera for a while.

A list of error messages can be found here: http://www.canon.co.uk/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_60D.aspx?faqtcmuri=tcm:14-754472&page=1&type=faq

Err 20 Malfunctions related to the mechanical mechanism have been detected.
Err 30 Malfunctions related to the shutter have been detected.

To me, "mechanical mechanism" means the reflex mirror and it's actuator.
It could also refer to the shutter mechanism, although this is covered by Err 30.

I know this is not what you want to hear, but it is probably time to
go back to the shop with it.

alfalad

hbr wrote: »

Reset the camera to default settings.

Try using the camera with a different lens or with no lens attached.

Try a different SD card or try using the camera with no SD card.
The card should be formatted in the camera.

Try a different battery if you have a spare one. Leave the battery out
of the camera for a while.

A list of error messages can be found here: http://www.canon.co.uk/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_60D.aspx?faqtcmuri=tcm:14-754472&page=1&type=faq

Err 20 Malfunctions related to the mechanical mechanism have been detected.
Err 30 Malfunctions related to the shutter have been detected.

To me, "mechanical mechanism" means the reflex mirror and it's actuator.
It could also refer to the shutter mechanism, although this is covered by Err 30.

I know this is not what you want to hear, but it is probably time to
go back to the shop with it.

Tried most of those and to no avail. Think it's time to return it alright.

Thanks for your help.

zerohamster

alfalad wrote: »

Tried most of those and to no avail. Think it's time to return it alright.

Thanks for your help.

Sorry for not replying sooner. If it's under warranty and getting an error 20 (usually shutter issues/phase switch on shutter faults) then you should bring it back to the shop and leave it in for repair or replacement because a camera that new shouldn't be getting any errors at all and a shutter failure isn't something that can be remedied easily especially if under warranty.

Im sure the present giver will understand that it needed repair if it was faulty and the warranty should cover it (if it wasn't grey market).

All those Canon troubleshooting tips are pretty much useless for most errors and are pretty much the only user available troubleshooting for resetting the camera (not even hard resetting).

zerohamster

dinneenp wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: camera

Model: G9

Fault: Lens jams and Lens error reported, does not take photos

When/how it happened: dropped/just occured

I don't actually own the camera yet but there's a few on Ebay like this. I know this issue was common with the G9. Wondering if you've fixed any like this before or know if you can?
thanks.

Hey,
Sorry I had seen this but presumed it was just the same as the PM you had sent me a while ago that I had replied to until I read it properly today.
If it is just the lens that is malfunctioning it is very fixable but obviously it all depends on the price you would get the camera for because it the price of the damaged camera and the repair would have to be cheaper than a second hand version of the camera to be worth getting.

Ive replaced the lens assembly (lens and sensor) on a few G9s and they were fine and didnt require adjustment so it's definitely doable if it's just the stated fault but obviously you want to avoid camera's that you might suspect have something else wrong with them apart from what is stated.

Basically be very careful with ebay stuff as people will screw you over or be dishonest so if somebody ever claims something is an easy or cheap fix then you have to ask yourself "why didn't they get it fixed themselves and sell it for second hand value?".

alfalad

zerohamster wrote: »

Sorry for not replying sooner. If it's under warranty and getting an error 20 (usually shutter issues/phase switch on shutter faults) then you should bring it back to the shop and leave it in for repair or replacement because a camera that new shouldn't be getting any errors at all and a shutter failure isn't something that can be remedied easily especially if under warranty.

Im sure the present giver will understand that it needed repair if it was faulty and the warranty should cover it (if it wasn't grey market).

All those Canon troubleshooting tips are pretty much useless for most errors and are pretty much the only user available troubleshooting for resetting the camera (not even hard resetting).

It was bought from hong kong but the company have an office in Sydney (so not sure if that is still grey market)and i was in with them yesterday. They said it would be shipped to Hong Kong and they would take a look and either repair or replace. I am pushing for a replace, but what is the situation with having it replaced, is there a defined period of warranty where it will be replaced?

Thanks for your help.

zerohamster

alfalad wrote: »

It was bought from hong kong but the company have an office in Sydney (so not sure if that is still grey market)and i was in with them yesterday. They said it would be shipped to Hong Kong and they would take a look and either repair or replace. I am pushing for a replace, but what is the situation with having it replaced, is there a defined period of warranty where it will be replaced?

Thanks for your help.

I would say it is grey market if it came from hong kong (digital rev by any chance?). Basically with grey market there is no warranty from the manufacturer but usually those shops will have a limited warranty and with that they will probably choose the cheapest option for them. you would have to read the small print of their shop/warranty card with your camera and see what the story is. If they did repair it they would probably be replacing the shutter in the camera so after that there shouldn't be any problems but I couldn't blame you for wanting a replacement unlikely event in the event that the camera had two faulty parts in it.

alfalad

zerohamster wrote: »

I would say it is grey market if it came from hong kong (digital rev by any chance?). Basically with grey market there is no warranty from the manufacturer but usually those shops will have a limited warranty and with that they will probably choose the cheapest option for them. you would have to read the small print of their shop/warranty card with your camera and see what the story is. If they did repair it they would probably be replacing the shutter in the camera so after that there shouldn't be any problems but I couldn't blame you for wanting a replacement unlikely event in the event that the camera had two faulty parts in it.

Ah assumed the manufactures warranty would still apply. I had a look at the small print and says they will repair or replace but seems to be up to them. To be a fair to the company (DWI Digital Cameras) I bought a lens and they were very good. Tracked courier etc and not real delay in getting the product to me. Good prices too.

aido182

Make - Canon

Item - DSLR

Model - 40D

Fault - BuSY error on top LCD screen

I took my 40D out today at my nieces Christening only to find this message on the top LCD.

I have removed the battery and the CF card, and put them back. It is still the same.

Also, there is nothing appearing on the rear LCD. I cant access any menus, view any photos...anything.

Not sure if this is relevant but I just got home from Belgium with the camera. Any chance the xray machine at the airport could have had an adverse effect?

Any help or tips appreciated.

zerohamster

aido182 wrote: »

Make - Canon

Item - DSLR

Model - 40D

Fault - BuSY error on top LCD screen

I took my 40D out today at my nieces Christening only to find this message on the top LCD.

I have removed the battery and the CF card, and put them back. It is still the same.

Also, there is nothing appearing on the rear LCD. I cant access any menus, view any photos...anything.

Not sure if this is relevant but I just got home from Belgium with the camera. Any chance the xray machine at the airport could have had an adverse effect?

Any help or tips appreciated.

The X-ray machine should have no effect on the camera but could you check one thing. Is the shutter button spongy when pressed as this would be the rubber membrane on the switch being punctured and this would result in the switch being stuck in a half press and it would exhibit similar if not identical behaviour to what you have mentioned. This is also a common enough fault with the XXD series (although probably wouldn't display busy on the top LCD).

Was the camera stored with any liquid or could the bag have gotten wet when in transit causing even moisture to be present in the bag (damp clothes etc...) as the "busy" error is quite common in the 1000D due to main board failure so moisture could cause just that to happen in a 40D or any other model if the main PCB was damaged in a similar fashion.

Other than trying that I could have a look at it for you as I do repairs if you want to PM me and I can see what I can find out?

magicbastarder

zerohamster wrote: »

then you should bring it back to the shop and leave it in for repair or replacement

do *not* settle for a repair. demand a replacement; you are entitled to refund, repair or replacement, at your discretion if it has this problem from the first day.

zerohamster

magicbastarder wrote: »

do *not* settle for a repair. demand a replacement; you are entitled to refund, repair or replacement, at your discretion if it has this problem from the first day.

I know that is the case in Ireland but does that apply worldwide or in the case of buying across continents.

Also the small print/shop T&Cs would probably have something in there about returns for faulty goods etc...so that would be a good starting point as then he wouldn't have to go to much trouble if the camera fell under the returnable conditions

aido182

zerohamster wrote: »

The X-ray machine should have no effect on the camera but could you check one thing. Is the shutter button spongy when pressed as this would be the rubber membrane on the switch being punctured and this would result in the switch being stuck in a half press and it would exhibit similar if not identical behaviour to what you have mentioned. This is also a common enough fault with the XXD series (although probably wouldn't display busy on the top LCD).

Was the camera stored with any liquid or could the bag have gotten wet when in transit causing even moisture to be present in the bag (damp clothes etc...) as the "busy" error is quite common in the 1000D due to main board failure so moisture could cause just that to happen in a 40D or any other model if the main PCB was damaged in a similar fashion.

Other than trying that I could have a look at it for you as I do repairs if you want to PM me and I can see what I can find out?

Hi Zerohamster,

Thanks for the reply. I just checked the shutter button. It seems fine. I forgot to mention, the AF works fine. When I half press the button, the camera focuses as normal. the problem only starts after that. When I try to fully depress the button, "BuSY" appears on the top LCD and in the viewfinder.

Thanks for your offer to look at it for me but I will be out of the country for a while.

Adrian

alfalad

zerohamster wrote: »

I know that is the case in Ireland but does that apply worldwide or in the case of buying across continents.

Also the small print/shop T&Cs would probably have something in there about returns for faulty goods etc...so that would be a good starting point as then he wouldn't have to go to much trouble if the camera fell under the returnable conditions

Well it has been returned and I fully intend to push for the replacement but given there terms and conditions they may just repair. I should hear back in the next 5 days or so as it's been shipped to hong kong. If they say they will only repair i will ask for a refund and see how that goes down, if they agree then i'll reorder and hope I get a good one.

chisel

Make - Canon

Item - DSLR

Model - 7D

Fault -needs a clean

I can see dust spots on the mirror/focussing screen (which don't turn up on the sensor), can you clean them?

Thanks,

Fran (see my next post as well)

chisel

Second query!

Make - Sigma

Item - Lens

Model - EX DC HSM 10-20mm 4-5.6

Fault - Odd uniform grainy view through viewfinder


Its an odd one, but thought I'd throw it up here anyway. When I mount this lens and look through the viewfinder (7D), The view looks uniformly "granular". Its kinda like what you used to see on some older film cameras that had a split focus screen. Lens focusses fine etc. Effect is not present when I mount other lenses (although the camera does need a clean!).

Fran

fran426ft

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: EF-S 17-55 F2.8 IS

Fault: The manual focus ring feels rough and doesn't rotate smoothly but still works correctly. There is a grinding sound as if there is grit under the focus ring. All lens functions operate as expected.

When/how it happened: Been like this for months can't really say when or how.

The Lens was bought second hand and seemed fine when I inspected it but it was shortly after I had bought it that I noticed the problem. The lens itself auto focuses fine and works perfectly but this is a minor annoyance.

I had a problem with my 60D in that the rubber grip had swollen and started detached itself from the body so I sent it to Image Supply Systems as the Canon Authorised Service Facility for a warranty repair. While I was sending up my camera I said I may as well send in the lens to be examined and for a repair quote. ISS have just emailed me a quote of €144.00 + VAT@13.5% for the lens repair with the quote simply stating "Replace Lens Barrel Assembly".

This seems a bit steep to fix what is a minor annoyance and I was wondering does this seem like a reasonable quote and what alternative options there are to get this fixed?

CabanSail

zerohamster wrote: »

If it is the bottom cases that needs replacing then first remove the four screws you can see holding the foot mount on and very carefully removing the connectors as you take the mount off, what ever you do dont try to yank them as they are pitifully weak and tear easily.

Then you turn the flash head sideways so that it would be facing the roof but rotated so the beam would be infront and behind rather than to each side of you. you should see some more screws (4 screws, 2x on each side) then open the battery lid, press the bounce head lock pin and seperate the cover paying attention to two hooks at the top front.

Today in town I bought myself a decent set of Jewllers Screwdrivers. Armed with these I fixed my Helicopter. Flew that around the house for a bit then moved on to my sick Flash. Most of the functions have been working. Still chuffed with my success with the Helicopter and the information here I thought I'd give it a lash.

Took the 4 screws out of the base and there was a problem. A ribbon cable was not connected. Got some pliers and pushed the cable back. Then reassembled the base. It now all works again. I don't think I would go much deeper into it.

A big thanks to zerohamster for the excellent advise. I owe you a pint.

StopNotWorking

Make: Pentax

Item: 35mm Compact slr

Model: S1a

Fault: Second shutter curtain is sticking

When/how it happened: Fatigue


Seems to be a pretty common problem with this camera, I think I've located the problem, it matches up with some descriptions of how it is fixed. The above spring is too slack, I rang around some of the larger camera shops asking for help. As soon as I mentioned pentax I got force fed the we do not do pentax..uk repair..you're f***ed etc.

One camera repair shop in dame street was recommended but I'm not able to get a hold of them. I'm bringing this in to a jewelers in Dundrum tomorrow to see if he can tighten the spring. If not I'm out of luck. Suggestions on somewhere that can service this and also CLA it?

zerohamster

chisel wrote: »

Make - Canon

Item - DSLR

Model - 7D

Fault -needs a clean

I can see dust spots on the mirror/focussing screen (which don't turn up on the sensor), can you clean them?

Thanks,

Fran (see my next post as well)

Hey,

sorry for the late reply.

I can indeed clean them if you want to send me a PM?

zerohamster

chisel wrote: »

Second query!

Make - Sigma

Item - Lens

Model - EX DC HSM 10-20mm 4-5.6

Fault - Odd uniform grainy view through viewfinder


Its an odd one, but thought I'd throw it up here anyway. When I mount this lens and look through the viewfinder (7D), The view looks uniformly "granular". Its kinda like what you used to see on some older film cameras that had a split focus screen. Lens focusses fine etc. Effect is not present when I mount other lenses (although the camera does need a clean!).

Fran

For this one Im thinking the f/4-5.6 aperture value being quite small is making the texture more noticable. On another lens try setting the aperture to f/11 or more and press the DOF preview button whilst looking through the viewfinder. When you do this is that the same effect you refer to? If so then it is probably just because of the small aperture of the lens or worst case scenario the aperture is jammed slightly closed on the lens (ever get underexposure or trouble focusing?)

zerohamster

fran426ft wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: EF-S 17-55 F2.8 IS

Fault: The manual focus ring feels rough and doesn't rotate smoothly but still works correctly. There is a grinding sound as if there is grit under the focus ring. All lens functions operate as expected.

When/how it happened: Been like this for months can't really say when or how.

The Lens was bought second hand and seemed fine when I inspected it but it was shortly after I had bought it that I noticed the problem. The lens itself auto focuses fine and works perfectly but this is a minor annoyance.

I had a problem with my 60D in that the rubber grip had swollen and started detached itself from the body so I sent it to Image Supply Systems as the Canon Authorised Service Facility for a warranty repair. While I was sending up my camera I said I may as well send in the lens to be examined and for a repair quote. ISS have just emailed me a quote of €144.00 + VAT@13.5% for the lens repair with the quote simply stating "Replace Lens Barrel Assembly".

This seems a bit steep to fix what is a minor annoyance and I was wondering does this seem like a reasonable quote and what alternative options there are to get this fixed?

I can't say for sure what the problem actually could be without seeing it but one thing I know is that ISS despite being the Canon ASF in Ireland actually do no repairs and just send them off to the UK ASF that actually do repairs. What they are qouting you sounds like some sort of minimum repair price to replace whatever parts are needed (which can be beneficial sometimes).

The part they refer to as the lens barrel assembly could mean two different parts of the lens as the name wasn't specific to either part but I'm guessing they are basically replacing the rear plastic outer casing which would be in contact with the focus ring. Judging by the price of the lens the part would cost in between €35-50 so it sounds like an ASF flat rate price at €144 plus VAT if that is all they are doing because that repair is not that heavy on labour.

If you didn't give them the go ahead I would be happy to have a look as the only other alternative to an ASF is to go to a non ASF if you wanted it cheaper really
(then again it depends on if they charged for looking at it etc...)

Hope that helps.

zerohamster

StopNotWorking wrote: »

Make: Pentax

Item: 35mm Compact slr

Model: S1a

Fault: Second shutter curtain is sticking

When/how it happened: Fatigue

Seems to be a pretty common problem with this camera, I think I've located the problem, it matches up with some descriptions of how it is fixed. The above spring is too slack, I rang around some of the larger camera shops asking for help. As soon as I mentioned pentax I got force fed the we do not do pentax..uk repair..you're f***ed etc.

One camera repair shop in dame street was recommended but I'm not able to get a hold of them. I'm bringing this in to a jewelers in Dundrum tomorrow to see if he can tighten the spring. If not I'm out of luck. Suggestions on somewhere that can service this and also CLA it?

Did you get this sorted with the jewellers?

If not Id be happy to have a look and see if I can help although I don't see many Pentax models?

fran426ft

Thanks Zerohamster,

Interesting that ISS don't actually do any repairs. I don't think I'll be proceeding with the ISS repair so I might take you up on your offer yet.

I was searching the web to see what would be involved in the work that would justify the price quoted and trying to figure out how the wole thing goes together when I came across this guide on instructables.com for a 17-55 lens repair.
http://www.instructables.com/id/RepairAdjustClean-Canon-17-55mm-f28-Dropped-/
From what I can tell I would only need to go as far as step 5 to get as far as the focus ring and see for myself if it just needs a clean or if there is actually some damage.

I'm pretty sure, having seen this, that it is something I could handle myself as it doesn't look like I'd even need to go as far as any of the lens elements and risk messing up lens calibration. What's do you think? Do you think it's too risky for a novice to tear apart a lens or have you any advise if I was to attempt this myself?

zerohamster

fran426ft wrote: »

Thanks Zerohamster,

Interesting that ISS don't actually do any repairs. I don't think I'll be proceeding with the ISS repair so I might take you up on your offer yet.

I was searching the web to see what would be involved in the work that would justify the price quoted and trying to figure out how the wole thing goes together when I came across this guide on instructables.com for a 17-55 lens repair.
http://www.instructables.com/id/RepairAdjustClean-Canon-17-55mm-f28-Dropped-/
From what I can tell I would only need to go as far as step 5 to get as far as the focus ring and see for myself if it just needs a clean or if there is actually some damage.

I'm pretty sure, having seen this, that it is something I could handle myself as it doesn't look like I'd even need to go as far as any of the lens elements and risk messing up lens calibration. What's do you think? Do you think it's too risky for a novice to tear apart a lens or have you any advise if I was to attempt this myself?

No problem,

I also found it strange that the only ASF in Ireland doesn't actually repair things but Im sure Canon may have decided that there just wasn't enough repairs being generated from Ireland to constitute a full ASF here so they picked a shop and let them generate some money as the "ASF" here.

The part I believe they are going to replace is the outer barrel in step 4 actually as the previous one probably had sand or grit that wore it down making it jerky or that the lubricant dried up or something.

I would say it is something someone could do but being such an expensive lens there are a good few things that could go wrong especially if you weren't use to taking the black plastic cover off the mount (step 2) as you have to be so careful not to tear or rip the lens contacts off the main PCB (€€€ if that needs to be be replaced and calibrated).
Another thing is that you would want to be confident that you had the right scewdriver heads and size (XPT head has different angles, a flatter tip and fits perfectly snug into the heads) to open the back as those screws are pretty tight and if the head get worn away that's a whole lot of trouble to get out and not cause damage.

If it were a cheap lens I would say there is nothing to lose but at €700-900 the risk seems pretty high compare to what you would save and although it is only a few steps to get to the part off and looks easy you just have to be sure that you have the right equipment, patience and care to not cause damage because the potential damage that can be caused is so much more expensive than what you would save so obviously you have to weigh up the risks yourself. The only other thing I would say is if you can't get the part to replace it then opening it up yourself has only risks but if you can get the part it may be worth doing yourself.