Garmin Megathread-Ask your questions here-See post 1 on how to search thread

Krusty_Clown

Itziger wrote: »

KC, here's a recent run I did. http://connect.garmin.com/activity/424263800

I've looked at deleting but that ain't helped. The whole 305 problem and Gconnect has been going on for a good few months now.

Different question: Is the measurement particularly bad on tracks? I did a 1500m time trial on New Year's Day, for a laugh, and the watch came in at 1.58 k.

It is definitely symptomatic of a full memory situation (even if that's not the problem). Do you use Garmin Training Centre at all? If so, can you take a look and see if you are getting a map outline in GTC? Can you locate where the 305 files are stored on your computer and send me an example? Search your machine for *.TCX

I'm guessing that the answer may lie in performing a master reset (if you haven't done one already).

menoscemo

Itziger wrote: »

Different question: Is the measurement particularly bad on tracks? I did a 1500m time trial on New Year's Day, for a laugh, and the watch came in at 1.58 k.

Yes, it is really bad on tracks in my experience. I think the problem is the bends. Garmins take satellite track points every few seconds (I think) and draw a straight line between those points, but you are running a curve so the garmin track just doesn't replicate your actual motions.

When doing 400m reps (.25 mile) at the club, reps regularly come in at anything between 0.24 and 0.27 (usually the latter).

Krusty_Clown

menoscemo wrote: »

Yes, it is really bad on tracks in my experience. I think the problem is the bends. Garmins take satellite track points every few seconds (I think) and draw a straight line between those points, but you are running a curve so the garmin track just doesn't replicate your actual motions.

When doing 400m reps (.25 mile) at the club, reps regularly come in at anything between 0.24 and 0.27 (usually the latter).

Almost spot-on. All Garmins record a track-point every second, however, some Garmins only store a track-point (after calculating distance and pace) every 4 seconds. This is called Smart Recording, and makes your uploaded files significantly smaller. The inaccuracy of GPS watches (all of them, not just Garmin) is what happens between those track-points recorded every second. As Meno pointed out, the Garmin treats it as a straight line rather than a curve, so will typically measure long. The only way to use a GPS watch on a track is to use it as a glorified stop-watch, checking your splits at every 200/400m against what you would expect them to be. For longer intervals (15 - 20 mins) I'll usually print off the splits, to save myself the mental arithmetic.

shane1981

Has any one successfully uploaded activities from their FR620 to Endomondo or Runkeeper? AFAIK you have to connect the watch to PC via USB and upload the .fit file from the watch drive. The problem is when the drive appears in My Computer, its empty and has a file size of 0kb.

Krusty_Clown

shane1981 wrote: »

Has any one successfully uploaded activities from their FR620 to Endomondo or Runkeeper? AFAIK you have to connect the watch to PC via USB and upload the .fit file from the watch drive. The problem is when the drive appears in My Computer, its empty and has a file size of 0kb.

You could upload to Garmin Connect and then export in TCX or GPX to your favourite app. Have you tried Garmin Connect?

opus

shane1981 wrote: »

Has any one successfully uploaded activities from their FR620 to Endomondo or Runkeeper? AFAIK you have to connect the watch to PC via USB and upload the .fit file from the watch drive. The problem is when the drive appears in My Computer, its empty and has a file size of 0kb.

DC Rainmaker had an article recently that might be of use - 3 Ways to Automatically Copy Your Garmin Training Data to Other Fitness Sites

Colostomy Bag

Did a search for this but couldn't find anything so sorry if it's going over old ground. I have had a Garmin 410 Forerunner for just over a year now and want to export all track history for 2013 to review in Excel in one go - where/how can I do this? Currently I only seem able to export the amount of tracks that are showing on a particular page when viewing the history - does this mean I have to export every page separately and add them together? Another annoying thing I have found is that when you wish to compare tracks you can't scroll through pages and tick tracks on separate pages - every time you change page the previous pages selected items won't stay ticked - I know you can compare by using similar distances, but this doesn't always get the tracks you are after.

shane1981

Krusty_Clown wrote: »

You could upload to Garmin Connect and then export in TCX or GPX to your favourite app. Have you tried Garmin Connect?

Yeah Ive had no problems with Garmin Connect, both WiFi and bluethooth are working fine.

It seems that 3rd party sites though are not compatible with the 620 to allow direct upload from the watch.

shane1981

opus wrote: »

DC Rainmaker had an article recently that might be of use - 3 Ways to Automatically Copy Your Garmin Training Data to Other Fitness Sites

Thanks for that, Ill have a look at these tonight. It was very convenient with the 410 and Ant+ as I could click the garmin import option. Not the case with 610 though. And I still have the PC connection problem.

rom

shane1981 wrote: »

Thanks for that, Ill have a look at these tonight. It was very convenient with the 410 and Ant+ as I could click the garmin import option. Not the case with 610 though. And I still have the PC connection problem.

I used http://www.copymysports.com/ for my 610 and it worked fine. Just had to upload everything automatically to garmin connect which happened automatically anyways first.

Hi folks,

I managed to smash the glass face on my Forerunner 110 and was wondering where I can get it replaced. Any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Krusty_Clown

Deleted User wrote: »

I managed to smash the glass face on my Forerunner 110 and was wondering where I can get it replaced. Any help appreciated.

See the Garmin UK support contact details here: http://www.garmin.com/uk/support/
Nobody else will touch it. Garmin will charge you a fee to replace it with a refurbished unit. The fee will likely be more than the watch is worth.

shane1981

rom wrote: »

I used http://www.copymysports.com/ for my 610 and it worked fine. Just had to upload everything automatically to garmin connect which happened automatically anyways first.

That works great thanks. Got an email from Strava to say they are working on an direct import solution for the 220/620. I still cant get my PC to connect through USB though.

b.harte

Krusty_Clown wrote: »

See the Garmin UK support contact details here: http://www.garmin.com/uk/support/
Nobody else will touch it. Garmin will charge you a fee to replace it with a refurbished unit. The fee will likely be more than the watch is worth.

Coming up as $59 USD here:
This is less than the price for a 305 which cost me 80eu including postage.
Again, it depends on what value the watch has to the user, I would rather a replacement unit for the Garmin Uk equivalent (surely less than 80euro) over a new watch for 199 Garmin site!
Alternatively an overhauled unit can be got here

I would give Support a call and ask for the price in Euro. Post back with the exchange price if you contact hem, might illuminate the grey areas re: exchange vs new purchase.

rom

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/425820141

ffs

belcarra

rom wrote: »

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/425820141

ffs

Were you using a jet pack??

Krusty_Clown

b.harte wrote: »

Coming up as $59 USD here:
This is less than the price for a 305 which cost me 80eu including postage.
Again, it depends on what value the watch has to the user, I would rather a replacement unit for the Garmin Uk equivalent (surely less than 80euro) over a new watch for 199 Garmin site!
Alternatively an overhauled unit can be got here

I would give Support a call and ask for the price in Euro. Post back with the exchange price if you contact hem, might illuminate the grey areas re: exchange vs new purchase.

If you're going to suggest a new one, at least use the Amazon price - £89.90. In my humble opinion, paying any more than £50 for a refurbished unit would make it uneconomical. A used watch (previously returned to Garmin because it had problems), with a three month warranty, versus a new unit for £89.90, including a full 1 year warranty. As for buying a refurbished unit for £80? Makes little sense.

rom

belcarra wrote: »

Were you using a jet pack??

Looking to become the next Felix Baumgartner

b.harte

Krusty_Clown wrote: »

If you're going to suggest a new one, at least use the Amazon price - £89.90. In my humble opinion, paying any more than £50 for a refurbished unit would make it uneconomical. A used watch (previously returned to Garmin because it had problems), with a three month warranty, versus a new unit for £89.90, including a full 1 year warranty. As for buying a refurbished unit for £80? Makes little sense.

I never suggested buying a new one?
In fact my post, and my previous one in the same vein advocates using the out of warranty system as a viable alternative.
I was linking to the official garmin price for reference, and to the refurb unit on hantec for the same reason - mainly to highlight that there are cheaper alternatives to buying a replacement unit. That is all.
I'm also not entirely sure if the counter re: length of warranty on a refurb vs new unit is valid in the specific case of a broken glass, as the garmin warranty does not usually cover this.link to faq
You are correct that it would be a better option to buy the cheap new unit from amazon over the refurbished unit from handtec. Without an accurate price on a direct refurbished unit from garmin that comparison may not carry.
Regardless, all I was trying to point out, for anyone who looks to this thread, is that the exchange process with Garmin or a approved dealer overhauled unit may be cost effective ways of replacing a device.

Krusty_Clown

b.harte wrote: »

I never suggested buying a new one?
In fact my post, and my previous one in the same vein advocates using the out of warranty system as a viable alternative.
I was linking to the official garmin price for reference, and to the refurb unit on hantec for the same reason - mainly to highlight that there are cheaper alternatives to buying a replacement unit. That is all.
I'm also not entirely sure if the counter re: length of warranty on a refurb vs new unit is valid in the specific case of a broken glass, as the garmin warranty does not usually cover this.link to faq
You are correct that it would be a better option to buy the cheap new unit from amazon over the refurbished unit from handtec. Without an accurate price on a direct refurbished unit from garmin that comparison may not carry.
Regardless, all I was trying to point out, for anyone who looks to this thread, is that the exchange process with Garmin or a approved dealer overhauled unit may be cost effective ways of replacing a device.

Fair enough,but my point is that if you are going to justify the purchase of a refurbished unit (from Garmin or Handtec (because it is essentially a purchase from Garmin, rather than paying for repairs) then the comparison should be with a reasonable market value, rather than the Garmin website price, which is not a reasonable market value.

My position is that if the watch is a newer/more expensive model then it is absolutely worth investing in a refurbished Garmin unit, but if the watch is at the entry level end of the market and you are paying more than 50% of the new price, but getting a second hand unit with only 1/4 of the warranty, then you have to think long and hard about whether or not it is a good investment.

I'm also not entirely sure if the counter re: length of warranty on a refurb vs new unit is valid in the specific case of a broken glass, as the garmin warranty does not usually cover this.link to faq

Not sure I understand your point. There are many things that can go wrong with a watch other than a cracked screen. In fact, if you follow this thread, out of the 2.6k posts, probably only one or two relate to a cracked screen.

copacetic

Anyone with 220 or 620 got it to transfer via Bluetooth? Mine connects but absolutely refuses to transfer data to app. Work arounds online about unpairing, exiting app, rebooting watch and re- pairing doesn't work for me..

dcorcaigh

I have the forrunner 405, recently on runs it has been changing to the compass screen for no reason, it usually happens on runs over 5miles. The first few times it happened I was able to click the training button and that brought me back to my running screen but recently this doesn’t to work, it just stays on the compass screen. It still clocks the mileage/times as I get the alert everymile but I can’t tell what pace I am going at. It’s very annoying, has anyone experience of this issue? and how to fix it? At first I was wondering was it to do with running in wet weather but the last two times it happened it was dry.

Krusty_Clown

dcorcaigh wrote: »

I have the forrunner 405, recently on runs it has been changing to the compass screen for no reason, it usually happens on runs over 5miles. The first few times it happened I was able to click the training button and that brought me back to my running screen but recently this doesn’t to work, it just stays on the compass screen. It still clocks the mileage/times as I get the alert everymile but I can’t tell what pace I am going at. It’s very annoying, has anyone experience of this issue? and how to fix it? At first I was wondering was it to do with running in wet weather but the last two times it happened it was dry.

Firstly, make sure that route navigation is turned off. To do this, hold the left side of the bezel and select the 'stop navgatiing' option, if it's enabled (may be called something slightly different). Secondly, lock the bezel before you click on 'Start'. This will prevent the menu system going hay-wire, even in wet/damp conditions.

dcorcaigh

Krusty_Clown wrote: »

Firstly, make sure that route navigation is turned off. To do this, hold the left side of the bezel and select the 'stop navgatiing' option, if it's enabled (may be called something slightly different). Secondly, lock the bezel before you click on 'Start'. This will prevent the menu system going hay-wire, even in wet/damp conditions.

Thanks Krusty, i will try that tonight.

sub3wannabe

I was wondering could anyone help me with an issue im having. Can't seem to find a way to adjust the "auto lap" distance on my f10. It's automatically set on 1km but am doing intervals of 500 meterers/ 750 meters and am looking to change the distance to those. There doesn't seem to be an option, or am I missing something? Thanks.

Krusty_Clown

sub3wannabe wrote: »

I was wondering could anyone help me with an issue im having. Can't seem to find a way to adjust the "auto lap" distance on my f10. It's automatically set on 1km but am doing intervals of 500 meterers/ 750 meters and am looking to change the distance to those. There doesn't seem to be an option, or am I missing something? Thanks.

Looking at the manual, it seems to be hard-wired to a km or a mile. So unless they added the feature in a firmware update, the answer is no.

sub3wannabe

Krusty_Clown wrote: »

Looking at the manual, it seems to be hard-wired to a km or a mile. So unless they added the feature in a firmware update, the answer is no.

That's a blow, do all the other ranges have this function Krusty? I guess if you pay peanuts you get monkeys:mad:

Krusty_Clown

sub3wannabe wrote: »

That's a blow, do all the other ranges have this function Krusty? I guess if you pay peanuts you get monkeys:mad:

All the ones I know of, do.

sub3wannabe

Sorry guys, still getting to terms with this gps watch lark, I took pacing for granted by using the pace makers in marathons, now that I'm sub 3 its all up to me now and im a bit apprehensive! A couple of questions if I may.

Is it normal for the pace to go a bit hay wire when going off on minor roads or around sharp bends? For example, when running my usual route im ticking along nicely at 5:00kpm then I take a sharp turn and sort of double back on myself the pace sometimes jumps to mad numbers like 3:45 as if the satellite thinks ive teleported 50 meters down the road! Does this mean then that my km lap time will be distorted giving me a falsely fast time and should I allow for this. Thanks.

Krusty_Clown

sub3wannabe wrote: »

Sorry guys, still getting to terms with this gps watch lark, I took pacing for granted by using the pace makers in marathons, now that I'm sub 3 its all up to me now and im a bit apprehensive! A couple of questions if I may.

Is it normal for the pace to go a bit hay wire when going off on minor roads or around sharp bends? For example, when running my usual route im ticking along nicely at 5:00kpm then I take a sharp turn and sort of double back on myself the pace sometimes jumps to mad numbers like 3:45 as if the satellite thinks ive teleported 50 meters down the road! Does this mean then that my km lap time will be distorted giving me a falsely fast time and should I allow for this. Thanks.

GPS is not entirely accurate when travelling around corners. In fact you should always have a healthy level of scepticism. The fact that you are on minor roads is irrelevant, however, if there are hedges and trees that obscure the watches views of the sky/satellites, it may impact the watches accuracy. Should you allow for inaccuracy? Generally speaking yes, you should aim to train a little faster than the exact equivalent goal pace.