Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

a_noodle_jenny

Villain wrote: »

I had a similar site in terms of orientation and I adjusted the angle slightly for a few reasons, direct south facing window, towards entrance and allowed me to put Garage at an angle also and increase light between house and Garage and direct Kitchen side window away from garage and towards view.

Pictures:

Stunning... thanks so much for sharing.

Did you go with wooden floors or are these wood look tiles? If wood are you finding it ok with spills in kitchen.

Villain

a_noodle_jenny wrote: »

Stunning... thanks so much for sharing.

Did you go with wooden floors or are these wood look tiles? If wood are you finding it ok with spills in kitchen.

Yep good quality laminate floors, it's fine in Kitchen, no issues. I went with good laminate but still not crazy expensive to get me to around 10 years when I will refresh.

Fayre

Wow Villian you've done a fabulous job there. Interesting kitchen units, a cross between raised panel and tongue and groove, never seen them like that before!
Would I be right in saying you have no window board on your window over the sink there?
Great colours and finish on it, it's stunning!

Villain

Fayre wrote: »

Wow Villian you've done a fabulous job there. Interesting kitchen units, a cross between raised panel and tongue and groove, never seen them like that before!
Would I be right in saying you have no window board on your window over the sink there?
Great colours and finish on it, it's stunning!

Cheers, no window board at sink, meant to be tailed, still not done mind

m1b2k3

We are just doing the first fixing this week and the ceiling slabs are going up. Plasterer is to come next week. Then I guess we put in the floors, insulation, underfloor heating pipes and screed floor. Can I ask what the sequence of next steps are?

ht9zni1gs28crp

m1b2k3 wrote: »

We are just doing the first fixing this week and the ceiling slabs are going up. Plasterer is to come next week. Then I guess we put in the floors, insulation, underfloor heating pipes and screed floor. Can I ask what the sequence of next steps are?

I wouldnt be putting any plaster board in the house yet, not for weeks after the ground floor slab has dried out at least :eek:

m1b2k3

Why that? How would the plasterer plaster the ceilings then?

FiOT

10 months into our self build now and first fix will be finished this week, it feels like we've been building forever but it's great to see some of the other trades coming in now and seeing a bit done every evening when we get home from work!

I'd say we could count on our hands how many days we've taken off in the past 10 months, it seems there's something to do every night after work. But it's great, tough but great. We've saved a lot of money by doing as much labour as we can by ourselves but to be very honest, we've re-invested this money into the best quality materials we can get for the house. People always ask me if self- building is much cheaper, really my experience is that it's given us the opportunity to build the best house we can build with the best quality materials and labour. I think the days for building a house for as cheap as possible are almost gone, whether it's contractor or self build.

A flavour of the cost of some parts of the build though:

- Blocklayers, I think it came to about €10,000 for house and garage for blocklaying with 200mm cavity for the hosue and cavity blocks for the garage. Super neat and tidy.
- Roofers, I think €3,600 it came to, think it was 80c a slate for house and garage... give or take!
- Plasterers, all outside plastering of house and garage, €4,200.
- Stone mason, €45 per sqm. He helped us fit the granite surrounds in the stone work but didn't charge for that as we did it but he gave a dig in for lifting/positioning.
- Windows, A rated and passive, inward opening windows and doors, €26,000. Absolutely delighted with these windows, just fab.
- We've been quoted between €4700 - €5,500 for pumping the cavity.
- All plumbing, heating etc. comes to €20,000 (Air to Water and underfloor upstairs and downstairs, 3 bathrooms.)

Really all of the other costs of the building have been materials as we did all of the ground works and foundations ourselves. Labour has probably only been about 1/4 of the cost (max) of everything so far so really that's what you might have to save by self- building.

I hope this gives an idea for now, I'll update a bit more now as things get moving again!

Claire1987

FiOT wrote: »

10 months into our self build now and first fix will be finished this week, it feels like we've been building forever but it's great to see some of the other trades coming in now and seeing a bit done every evening when we get home from work!

I'd say we could count on our hands how many days we've taken off in the past 10 months, it seems there's something to do every night after work. But it's great, tough but great. We've saved a lot of money by doing as much labour as we can by ourselves but to be very honest, we've re-invested this money into the best quality materials we can get for the house. People always ask me if self- building is much cheaper, really my experience is that it's given us the opportunity to build the best house we can build with the best quality materials and labour. I think the days for building a house for as cheap as possible are almost gone, whether it's contractor or self build.

A flavour of the cost of some parts of the build though:

- Blocklayers, I think it came to about €10,000 for house and garage for blocklaying with 200mm cavity for the hosue and cavity blocks for the garage. Super neat and tidy.
- Roofers, I think €3,600 it came to, think it was 80c a slate for house and garage... give or take!
- Plasterers, all outside plastering of house and garage, €4,200.
- Stone mason, €45 per sqm. He helped us fit the granite surrounds in the stone work but didn't charge for that as we did it but he gave a dig in for lifting/positioning.
- Windows, A rated and passive, inward opening windows and doors, €26,000. Absolutely delighted with these windows, just fab.
- We've been quoted between €4700 - €5,500 for pumping the cavity.
- All plumbing, heating etc. comes to €20,000 (Air to Water and underfloor upstairs and downstairs, 3 bathrooms.)

Really all of the other costs of the building have been materials as we did all of the ground works and foundations ourselves. Labour has probably only been about 1/4 of the cost (max) of everything so far so really that's what you might have to save by self- building.

I hope this gives an idea for now, I'll update a bit more now as things get moving again!

fabulous house! Can you give an estimate on what electrician costs were and materials for roof & blocks？ thanks

covey09

FiOT wrote: »

10 months into our self build now and first fix will be finished this week, it feels like we've been building forever but it's great to see some of the other trades coming in now and seeing a bit done every evening when we get home from work!

I'd say we could count on our hands how many days we've taken off in the past 10 months, it seems there's something to do every night after work. But it's great, tough but great. We've saved a lot of money by doing as much labour as we can by ourselves but to be very honest, we've re-invested this money into the best quality materials we can get for the house. People always ask me if self- building is much cheaper, really my experience is that it's given us the opportunity to build the best house we can build with the best quality materials and labour. I think the days for building a house for as cheap as possible are almost gone, whether it's contractor or self build.

A flavour of the cost of some parts of the build though:

- Blocklayers, I think it came to about €10,000 for house and garage for blocklaying with 200mm cavity for the hosue and cavity blocks for the garage. Super neat and tidy.
- Roofers, I think €3,600 it came to, think it was 80c a slate for house and garage... give or take!
- Plasterers, all outside plastering of house and garage, €4,200.
- Stone mason, €45 per sqm. He helped us fit the granite surrounds in the stone work but didn't charge for that as we did it but he gave a dig in for lifting/positioning.
- Windows, A rated and passive, inward opening windows and doors, €26,000. Absolutely delighted with these windows, just fab.
- We've been quoted between €4700 - €5,500 for pumping the cavity.
- All plumbing, heating etc. comes to €20,000 (Air to Water and underfloor upstairs and downstairs, 3 bathrooms.)

Really all of the other costs of the building have been materials as we did all of the ground works and foundations ourselves. Labour has probably only been about 1/4 of the cost (max) of everything so far so really that's what you might have to save by self- building.

I hope this gives an idea for now, I'll update a bit more now as things get moving again!

Thanks for all the info, did you go with the SVK Cromleigh textured tiles in the end. If you could take a pic of them that would be much appreciated. Trying to get an idea of what to go with tile wise

FiOT

covey09 wrote: »

Thanks for all the info, did you go with the SVK Cromleigh textured tiles in the end. If you could take a pic of them that would be much appreciated. Trying to get an idea of what to go with tile wise

Hi Yes we did, they're really lovely slates, well in my opinion anyway!

Here's a slightly closer image from when they were first starting to lay them. Very fast going up, it was great.

If you call some of the companies/places that sell them they will send you out some sample slates. That might help you to choose.

a_noodle_jenny

Slates look class FiOT.


We have a query in relation to our Apex Window. We have to put on a 10mm strip of aerogel to prevent thermal bridging between the steel structure and the cladding.

Our airtightness consultant has spent quite a bit of time with builder on all aspects of spec of materials, insulation, taping.
Builder, plasterer and window people very happy with input as are we.

Query is in relation to aesthetics. We were thinking of cladding using PVC material (golden oak) to match window frames.

We are however not entirely sold on the idea as it will be a lot of plastic on view. The plasterer said that if we plaster the area it will show hairline cracks or worse very quickly. My father who is a plasterer by trade also concurs with this.

Wood next to the pvc I don't think will work unless it's painted... maybe same as walls.

Perhaps it's all just too much thinking and PVC will look nicer than painted wood. We would really like to hear any possible solutions anyone has to offer.

rampantbunny

a_noodle_jenny wrote: »

Slates look class FiOT.


We have a query in relation to our Apex Window. We have to put on a 10mm strip of aerogel to prevent thermal bridging between the steel structure and the cladding.
:
:
Perhaps it's all just too much thinking and PVC will look nicer than painted wood. We would really like to hear any possible solutions anyone has to offer.

Personally, I think if the divides between window sections were white it would look good. White against the darker color of the window frame would look crisp and clean, otherwise I think you risk making the window 'pillars' look too thick and bulky.
You could get some poplar timber and paint it white, or even MDF. The cut edges of the poplar would be easier to paint though. This timber would usually be used for architrave/skirting/window boards so is not a specialist timber or anything. If you are DIY inclined you could easily do the job yourself if you order the timber cut to thickness from joinery.

Fayre

rampantbunny wrote: »

a_noodle_jenny wrote: »

Slates look class FiOT.


We have a query in relation to our Apex Window. We have to put on a 10mm strip of aerogel to prevent thermal bridging between the steel structure and the cladding.
:
:
Perhaps it's all just too much thinking and PVC will look nicer than painted wood. We would really like to hear any possible solutions anyone has to offer.

Personally, I think if the divides between window sections were white it would look good. White against the darker color of the window frame would look crisp and clean, otherwise I think you risk making the window 'pillars' look too thick and bulky.
You could get some poplar timber and paint it white, or even MDF. The cut edges of the poplar would be easier to paint though. This timber would usually be used for architrave/skirting/window boards so is not a specialist timber or anything. If you are DIY inclined you could easily do the job yourself if you order the timber cut to thickness from joinery.

that's a great idea

a_noodle_jenny

Yes this is the solution and poplar MDF was mentioned. Perhaps primed or what do ye think? Was going to paint same colour as the walls which is tbc as of yet. Neither of us is handy though - but guys in joinery or kitchen can do it and smooth out the edges a bit.

rampantbunny

a_noodle_jenny wrote: »

Yes this is the solution and poplar MDF was mentioned. Perhaps primed or what do ye think? Was going to paint same colour as the walls which is tbc as of yet. Neither of us is handy though - but guys in joinery or kitchen can do it and smooth out the edges a bit.

Poplar from joinery would usually be in decent shape so all you should really have to do is sand it down a little. I've used it for skirting and architrave. I primed it first (skipped the sanding) with Zinsser Bin primer, front, back, sides etc.
Light sand down after, followed by 2 coats of whatever chosen paint finish you want. I'm not a painter by trade so the above could be flawed but looks perfectly fine installed.

If you go down the DIY route, set a platform up for yourself so that you can paint it on the flat. Makes life so easy not bending down or getting up on a ladder after it's installed (although you will probably have nail heads to cover up after installation).

Re. the nails, sorry, this is the actual fitting end of things and I can't offer any advice as to how to fix the timber to structure. If nailing you have to consider if you have airtight membrane to puncture etc.

PS: if ordering the timber, get it with a micro-bevel on each edge. This is just a small chamfer to get rid of the sharp corners...or a bull nose if you prefer..

B-D-P--

First post on this thread but foundation poured last week.. Waiting period now





And the standard dog marking his spot in the living room picture.

ustari

Images aren't working for me but how long did the digging and pouring of the foundations take for you BDP?

B-D-P--

ustari wrote: »

Images aren't working for me but how long did the digging and pouring of the foundations take for you BDP?

Digging for a month, but had to excavate 2m in some places and did some of the landscaping. We are building in a place called Rockfield, hence we have some crazy sized boulders, which will be great to be used in front wall.

Foundation, toke 2 weeks tying steel and making the moulds but can be done quicker with more hands, this was all done by 1 man, then pouring foundation toke 1 day. with 4 of us there.

ustari

Great thanks, trying to get an idea of how long that bit takes.

CaraK

Cork selfbuild wrote: »

All the horizontal steels are separated, there is 2 beams, one for each leaf, insulated in between.

The structural uprights are sitting on a type of pad to try provide a break, like a rubber style pad. These will then be wrapped in insulation before being blocked around.

The one in the ceiling is wrapped in insulation between slab, the airtight layer and ceiling insulation will then wrap under this again.

Just wondering if you took any pictures of this detail, I know I will be having this conversation with my builder at some stage

m1b2k3

We are just finishing internal plastering, the septic tank in going in tomorrow and the duct for the ESB is in now too. Hoping the plumber and electrician can come back ther week after St. Patrick's day and then the floor insulation can go down before the underfloor heating pipes can be installed then the screed floor be poured. Does anyone know the recommended length of time the screed needs to be left before the floors can be laid?

terrarev

m1b2k3 wrote: »

We are just finishing internal plastering, the septic tank in going in tomorrow and the duct for the ESB is in now too. Hoping the plumber and electrician can come back ther week after St. Patrick's day and then the floor insulation can go down before the underfloor heating pipes can be installed then the screed floor be poured. Does anyone know the recommended length of time the screed needs to be left before the floors can be laid?

A rough guide is a day per 1mm of screed depth.

FiOT

Hello All,

Been a while since I posted an update so I said I'd stick up a few photos!

So we're just waiting on the ESB connection now, electrician has all of the second fix done now so once the ESB are done there will be light! And Heat!

We went with something a little different for the stairs, love the clean lines. We shuttered the stairs ourselves and for the wood, steel and concrete it cost us about €800. We had gotten prices for the stairs pre - formed and dropped in earlier in the build and the price was actually frightening. Got a steel - worker to make the frame for the "bannister" then bulked it out with MDF and Slab before plastering. We'll have an oak handrail and treads when it's all done.

So far we're up to about €180,000 on the house and garage including the fees we've paid along the way. Hoping to be in the house for about €200,00/210,000. That will be just kitchen, floors in main areas and bathroom finished upstairs and down. Last push on now!

chillit

That stairs will be very nice when finished with a quality handrail.

What size us the house. 200k sounds like a very good price

FiOT

chillit wrote: »

That stairs will be very nice when finished with a quality handrail.

What size us the house. 200k sounds like a very good price

Hoping the stairs will look great now, nice to see our little design go from a drawing on a McDonald's napkin to real life!

House is 2650sqft. We have been extremely lucky to build for the price we have. Combination of taking our time and waiting for deals on the things we need and trying our hand at everything we could. We have only paid labour for blocklaying, slating and electrics/plumbing. Don't think this price is anywhere near the norm though, very much luck that we are where we are.

a_noodle_jenny

FiOT - looks just fab! And an unreal spend to get to this stage - so many decisions at this this stage it's so hard!
We are picking paints, getting the tiles and stairs ordered, our stove is making its way to us (have to choose a hearth for it very soon I'm told) and don't forget blinds!!! You would wonder doing it all again - why put soooo many windows!
I love your stairs too - will be keeping an eye out and see what you do with it :-)

Fayre

I did my final tally the other day. Looks like all in it's going to have cost us 420k for a 305m2 house. That's including all arch tech, engineer, PM,groundswork, kitchen, carpentry, appliances, stone work, all flooring, garden fence, all plumbing, lights, bathroom fittings, painting, council fees, solicitor's fees for the land transfer (from family). 
Doesn't include painting the outside or properly painting the inside (we only have first coat inside done) or any furniture or built ins etc. Sadly doesnt'include the garage (wish it did!)
 We'll be decorating it for the next few years I'd say as we get a bit of money back together again! And hopefully build the garage and entrance walls

m1b2k3

FIOT - we are at a similar stage to you. Got the electricity turned on this week. Tiles are nearly finished. The pipework was done this week for the storm water and the septic tank waste. Really need to get the heat on next week. This weekend I have to get the bathroom ware any suggestions on this. I am having a tough time finding a sink/vanity unit for our main bathroom?
Also need to finalise the flooring - the kitchen is booked to be installed Monday 4 weeks so going to try get the floors down in the other rooms before then. Also need to pick paint :-) Lots of decisions

To date we have spent €155k - including all fees, drilling for a well, septic tank, deposit on kitchen. House is 226 sqm but is single storey

Fayre

M1 for the double vanity I went for Crono unit mat grey 1200mm with matching top APCO120 + WUTD120 from this german crowd http://burgbad.de/en/products/bathroom-furniture/product-lines/crono/
It was ordered for me by a local bathroom fella. It cost 1700 +13.5% VAT
For the bowls I put in Roca ´Bol´
And for the taps I put the Elements Air 3 hole wall tap from Vado for 2 of them it was 380 +13.5% VAT
https://www.vado.com/products/bathroom-taps-and-mixers/elements-water
There´s a single drawer under the sinks so I also got 2 matching wall unit cupboards from Crono as well that we can use for storage. There´s a separate mirror then hanging over the double vanity on the wall, with a built in lights and demister. that was around the 450 mark brand name is ´Lotto´
Happy with the end result but pricey!