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Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

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  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭a_noodle_jenny


    Fayre wrote: »
    see the metal divider used for the double glazing Jenny - metal is a conductor of cold as well as heat, so you're better off having non-metal there, I'm sure in your new house it's different

    I must check - what's in now is staying in... so many problems with this house we are renting. I spend so much time now on the floor with my kids I really feel the cold coming from the ground..
    I don't think our airtightness / insulation guy would allow windows unless they were up to the mark in line with rest of house.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 fermmark


    Morning guys,

    We are at the stage where subfloors are in and it will probably be the end of February/march time when the builder is starting with the block work.
    On our front elevation/gable we are having a big window covering the dining area downstairs and the master bedroom upstairs (5200mm wide x 5685mm high). To cover the services/slabs we will be having spandrel glass and I was wondering have many of you used this before in residential housing and what's your opinions on it?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭a_noodle_jenny


    Fayre wrote: »
    see the metal divider used for the double glazing Jenny - metal is a conductor of cold as well as heat, so you're better off having non-metal there, I'm sure in your new house it's different

    No metal - window guys confirmed that this is never used anymore.


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Our roof is nearly finished! Slates on, rigetiles going on and flat roof being worked on! Plasterer is finishing the scratch coat hopefully tomorrow and our Windows are coming Monday!!! So exciting!

    I can't seem to attach photos, so if someone can tell me how I'll load some photos!!

    Exciting times


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    Go to advanced settings and the paper clip should appear
    Or click on 'Manage Attachments'


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  • Registered Users Posts: 907 ✭✭✭rampantbunny


    No metal - window guys confirmed that this is never used anymore.

    Just a comment when I see the picture of the stack of plasterboard, but if you are trying to reduce sound from above, there are acoustic versions of this board from different manufactures. It is more dense I think...not something you need to worry about if you don't have an upstairs of course.
    There are also fire retardant versions, plus the usual moisture resistant boards. Just a note to make sure the builder doesn't just throw in the standard board everywhere.


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Thanks Fayre

    Here are some pics taken this morning


  • Registered Users Posts: 371 ✭✭Catxscotch


    We had a bit of a nightmare over Christmas, the underfloor heating was laid, but the plumbers laid it without mentioning the plastic that's supposed to go underneath. When the guy came to price pumping the floor, he flat out refused to do the work due to the issue.
    Spent 4 days on hand and knees taping every joint in the insulation and edging to allow floors to be poured next week.
    Fecking plumbers..


  • Registered Users Posts: 907 ✭✭✭rampantbunny


    Catxscotch wrote: »
    We had a bit of a nightmare over Christmas, the underfloor heating was laid, but the plumbers laid it without mentioning the plastic that's supposed to go underneath. When the guy came to price pumping the floor, he flat out refused to do the work due to the issue.
    Spent 4 days on hand and knees taping every joint in the insulation and edging to allow floors to be poured next week.
    Fecking plumbers..

    Could you have put the plastic sheeting over the plumbing? What's the difference?

    [EDIT]...scratch that...the plastic would probably not sit tight against the pipework thus causing hollows and preventing the UFH from working as effectively.


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    Catxscotch wrote: »
    We had a bit of a nightmare over Christmas, the underfloor heating was laid, but the plumbers laid it without mentioning the plastic that's supposed to go underneath. When the guy came to price pumping the floor, he flat out refused to do the work due to the issue.
    Spent 4 days on hand and knees taping every joint in the insulation and edging to allow floors to be poured next week.
    Fecking plumbers..
    I remember my engineer specifying that we had to put that layer of plastic under the UF heating, wouldn't have thought it was a plumber's job to do so. I remember a discussion about it but the engineer said it had to be put down, prevents a reaction with the concrete or something?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 110 ✭✭chillit


    I think the idea of the plastic is to stop the concrete or screed going down between the insulation sheets and creating a thermal bridge. Taping the sheets has the same effect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 371 ✭✭Catxscotch


    Fayre, you are right to say it's not the plumbers job, however these guys are laying UFH every day, they should have at least raised the question, would have saved us 3 weeks and alot of hassle


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Our windows and doors are in and our plasterer is working away on the outside. Has anyone installed their air-tightness membrane themselves or with their carpenter?


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    m1b2k3 wrote: »
    Our windows and doors are in and our plasterer is working away on the outside. Has anyone installed their air-tightness membrane themselves or with their carpenter?
    Nae got an air tightness fella to do it. It didn't cost that much and it was supply and install.
    Just so much handier to get him to do it and get the materials as well! He was a very nice guy to boot and he has a great reputation in the industry


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Fayre I got quoted about €3.5k, does that sound like a lot?


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    What size is your house and what's that quote for? Is it membrane and tape etc as required for the whole house plus labour?


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Membrane and tape for the Windows for the whole house 216m sq


  • Registered Users Posts: 220 ✭✭Wegian


    m1b2k3 wrote: »
    Membrane and tape for the Windows for the whole house 216m sq

    It's about right so. It is very time consuming and the material is expensive


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭m1b2k3


    Ok sorry one more question would people have any opinions on airtightness membrane and fibreglass insulation or icynene spray topped up with fibreglass?


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭a_noodle_jenny


    Any advice on front door folks? We are looking for low u value door, triple glazing (which I know is just a spec you add as ordering)
    I would love wood but maintenance is an issue for us so am looking for an oak grain effect... I know it wouldn't be everyone's thing here but I've considered this for quite some time and have weighed up the benefits of low maintenance option for our busy family life going forward.
    So oak is the preference - but if the wood effect is cheap or looks strange we will explore a red colour. Our door is not right on top of the road but it is quite visible.
    Our windows people get supplies from the north but I'm not sure on the finish for oak effect as it's a computer generated image in their brochure. I know about RAL etc but just wanted to know if any of you know a door supplier for passive / airtight houses - no letterbox also so not sure how one works that? Anyone ever put a letterbox in the garage? I've seen one brand come up a lot so would love to hear any experience to help inform our decision.

    Thanks
    Slightly obsessed lady observing hedging and doors on every commmute these days ;-)

    Attached image is styles ideas board with our own house in bottom right corner


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,890 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    Any advice on front door folks? We are looking for low u value door, triple glazing (which I know is just a spec you add as ordering)
    I would love wood but maintenance is an issue for us so am looking for an oak grain effect... I know it wouldn't be everyone's thing here but I've considered this for quite some time and have weighed up the benefits of low maintenance option for our busy family life going forward.
    So oak is the preference - but if the wood effect is cheap or looks strange we will explore a red colour. Our door is not right on top of the road but it is quite visible.
    Our windows people get supplies from the north but I'm not sure on the finish for oak effect as it's a computer generated image in their brochure. I know about RAL etc but just wanted to know if any of you know a door supplier for passive / airtight houses - no letterbox also so not sure how one works that? Anyone ever put a letterbox in the garage? I've seen one brand come up a lot so would love to hear any experience to help inform our decision.

    Thanks
    Slightly obsessed lady observing hedging and doors on every commmute these days ;-)

    Attached image is styles ideas board with our own house in bottom right corner
    Most window reps should have a sample of window / door you want with them or could definitely tell you where they fitted one with the same finish you're after


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    Sorry will post the cost of my air tightness later, don't have access to the info right now.
    Re the front door, it's a huge decision! But aren't they all ! I couldn't open your mood board. But what you're talking about I think is 'Golden Oak' it's what we went for in the windows. It doesn't have a RAL by the way!
    That confused me for a while. It's PVC wood effect basically and comes in a darker colour and a lighter colour. The lighter one is golden oak. For the front door my OH wanted the door to be golden oak as well to match the windows but in the end we went for frame & the door all 'Ivory' RAL 1015 out / 'Cream' RAL 9001 in.
    Our windows are RAL 9001 on the inside so got the inside of the front door to match those.
    The outside is RAL 1015 it has every so slight tint of yellow to it, it goes lovely with the golden oak windows and the sandstone front gable. Delighted with it.
    Also we got the swinging part of the door (the sash it's called) composite and the frame around it is timber (Sapele Mahogany)


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭Fayre


    Sorry will post the cost of my air tightness later, don't have access to the info right now.
    Re the front door, it's a huge decision! But aren't they all ! I couldn't open your mood board. But what you're talking about I think is 'Golden Oak' it's what we went for in the windows. It doesn't have a RAL by the way!
    That confused me for a while. It's PVC wood effect basically and comes in a darker colour and a lighter colour. The lighter one is golden oak. For the front door my OH wanted the door to be golden oak as well to match the windows but in the end we went for frame & the door all 'Ivory' RAL 1015 out / 'Cream' RAL 9001 in.
    Our windows are RAL 9001 on the inside so got the inside of the front door to match those.
    The outside is RAL 1015 it has every so slight tint of yellow to it, it goes lovely with the golden oak windows and the sandstone front gable. Delighted with it.
    Also we got the swinging part of the door (the sash it's called) composite and the frame around it is timber (Sapele Mahogany)


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭a_noodle_jenny


    Fayre, oh I love all your information!!!! Yes, I got to understanding that now about the RAL colours, we had to get cill (or sill?) to match the sandstone and another colour to match the Golden Oak for our big window at the back... So our local joinery supplies a similar door. It's called cottage style, the company they get their supplies from is based in the north and in the UK and seem to have lots of suppliers here but it's not the biggest name out there for composite doors either...

    I'd love to see any pics you have of the door or indeed the inside... I'm awful boring going for the golden oak probably, yes to match the windows. Is your fascia and soffit golden oak also?

    I can opt for cream inside which I might do... I will be doing the skirting architraves in off white / cream, the front hall won't have sun hitting it only in summer months so I'm concerned it will be dark... I'm a bungalow bliss baby trying to maximise light throughout (like us all here!)

    I've attached the sun orientation showing position of the door on either side of the solstices and our door design which we hoping we can get locally after all


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭keano25


    What app is that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 110 ✭✭chillit


    not sure what app noodle was using but this website does the same thing http://suncalc.net/


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,944 ✭✭✭✭Villain



    I've attached the sun orientation showing position of the door on either side of the solstices and our door design which we hoping we can get locally after all

    I had a similar site in terms of orientation and I adjusted the angle slightly for a few reasons, direct south facing window, towards entrance and allowed me to put Garage at an angle also and increase light between house and Garage and direct Kitchen side window away from garage and towards view.

    Pictures:

    408030.PNG

    408031.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Stunning kitchen/dining/living area Villian!


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,944 ✭✭✭✭Villain


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Stunning kitchen/dining/living area Villian!

    Cheers, started build in 2007 moved in in 2013 :D

    It was a self build btw


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  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭a_noodle_jenny


    keano25 wrote: »
    What app is that?

    Sun seeker app - then popped the drawings in with pic collage - I know the sun orientation variations very well but it's handy when explaining to builders and tradespeople when making decisions either in site or at workshops
    HTH!


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