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Home heating automation

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Comments

  • #3302
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    sebdavis wrote: »
    Its the old connections. If you don't already have a TRV installed then you need to follow the video above and install.....so its a drain the system and replace job...

    Feck it anyway, better find a plumber then. Any recommendations of the valves to get for it?


  • #3303
    Marlow
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,555 ✭✭✭✭Marlow


    Clareman wrote: »
    Feck it anyway, better find a plumber then. Any recommendations of the valves to get for it?

    The most commonly used are the Honeywell ones. That's what gets fitted by most plumbers in Ireland anyhow. Either those or Danfoss.

    My AVM TRVs fitted straight onto my Honeywell valves, but also had a Danfoss adapter in the package. I figure, the Tado would be similar.

    /M


  • #3304
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    Clareman wrote: »
    Feck it anyway, better find a plumber then. Any recommendations of the valves to get for it?

    Feck is right.
    These TRV bodies are good value,
    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp
    A bigger problem is if your old screw type valves have union joints to the rads, as all modern valves have compression fittings, a union TRV body is like hens teeth. It just means the union spigot into the rad has to be replaced by a compession spigot off the new valve. Makes the job messier and longer, but no problem for the plumber, it'll just take him a bit £ong€r. Have a look back here.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=114567296&postcount=2149


  • #3305
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    deezell wrote: »
    Feck is right.
    These TRV bodies are good value,
    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp
    A bigger problem is if your old screw type valves have union joints to the rads, as all modern valves have compression fittings, a union TRV body is like hens teeth. It just means the union spigot into the rad has to be replaced by a compession spigot off the new valve. Makes the job messier and longer, but no problem for the plumber, it'll just take him a bit £ong€r. Have a look back here.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=114567296&postcount=2149

    I've a plumber calling some evening to have a look to see what he needs, he reckons it'll take half a day to do the 10 radiators, have to drain the system, change the valves and charge the system again.


  • #3306
    steve584
    Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭steve584


    The tado and drayton radiator valves are on offer now on Amazon. Tado are half price!


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  • #3307
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    I've 1 rad the that had a plunger valve, can't believe how easy it was to install the TRV. Really tempted to swop the Netamo out for the new thermostat now but I don't want to risk blowing something up when it's nearly bedtime


  • #3308
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    Just got a ping that the valve was shutting off because it detected an open window, I didn't realize there was air quality sensors in it as well, what a great feature.


  • #3309
    Vikings
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,788 ✭✭✭Vikings


    steve584 wrote: »
    The tado and drayton radiator valves are on offer now on Amazon. Tado are half price!

    Any more feedback on the noise of the tado TRVs?


  • #3310
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Vikings wrote: »
    Any more feedback on the noise of the tado TRVs?

    I notice noise from Tado TRV moving the valve only when I expect it (exp. just boosted the temp in the room), but never otherwise. They never woke anybody either.

    Overblown complain IMHO.


  • #3311
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Clareman wrote: »
    Just got a ping that the valve was shutting off because it detected an open window, I didn't realize there was air quality sensors in it as well, what a great feature.

    It detects a sudden drop in temperature, not increase in air quality :D


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  • #3312
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    grogi wrote: »
    It detects a sudden drop in temperature, not increase in air quality :D

    The air comfort comes from outside, oops...


  • #3313
    steve584
    Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭steve584


    Vikings wrote: »
    Any more feedback on the noise of the tado TRVs?

    I don't actually have tado, it's the Drayton I have. However I don't really notice it. It hasn't woken anyone up. I read somewhere that if your pipes are somewhat loose around the rad the the movement of the trv could be amplified.


  • #3314
    Bawnmore
    Registered Users Posts: 1,786 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Bawnmore wrote: »
    After some reading around, I'm set on the Drayton Wiser system and TRV's. Just want to make sure I'm ordering the right thing.

    So what we have:

    - Boiler, zoned for rads and water.
    - EPH controller that allows for separate schedules for heat and water. We don't have huge hot water needs so have it set for 30 mins in the morning and that's it.
    - Separate mechanical timer for immersion.
    - Wired twisty knob type thermostat in the hall.
    - Hot Water cylinder gravity fed from attic.
    - Manual TRV bodies on each rad.

    So with above in mind, would the following sound right:

    - https://www.screwfix.ie/p/drayton-heating-2-channel-wiser-thermostat-control-kit/9575V?gclsrc=ds which would replace the EPH controller and thermostat.
    - Drayton Wiser TRV's for each of the radiators with the exception of the bathroom.

    And then questions:

    - Is replacing it a DIY job or something we'd need an electrician for?
    - It doesn't say it in the package above, but I'm assuming the Drayton thermostats are wireless and I could move it to a better spot than the current thermostat (above a radiator) and just patch up the wiring hole?

    So I did this - nice and easy and all set up and running perfectly now. Would be ordering additional TRV's in future anyway so went ahead and ordered for the rest of the radiators while they're reduced on Amazon. Had €40 credit with Screwfix which covered the cost of one so have one coming from there and rest coming from Amazon. Thanks again for the advice here folks!


  • #3315
    RedSteve
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭RedSteve


    Hi there, is there any consensus on the best home heating that works with HomeKit?
    I have a 3 zone set up currently but with a “dumb” EPH controller and stats.
    Currently leaning towards Hive and switching to Bord Gais but just want to see if there is something better out there first.


  • #3316
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Ecobee is apple only, so if I had to bet something that integrates best with HomeKit, it would be it.


  • #3317
    sebdavis
    Closed Accounts Posts: 891 ✭✭✭sebdavis


    Just wondering has anyone had issue with batteries? I have installed 3 which are connected a good distance away from main controller, the battery life is gone already and they are only in 2-3 weeks. The others which are in weeks are still full? would they use up more battery because of distance? this is drayton wiser units


  • #3318
    DrPhilG
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,453 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    I had a low battery warning come through for one of the living room units, but then it cleared and the battery indicator now says full.

    System has been running a month or so now, with the 2 living room rads a bit longer.


  • #3319
    Paulzx
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,978 ✭✭✭Paulzx


    No issues with batteries on any of my Drayton units (yet :eek:)

    Had 1 TRV that refused to connect. Got onto Drayton customer service who went through a load of tests with me and then told me to get it replaced by Amazon using the Service Enquiry number that had been generated. I was refunded straight away by Amazon


  • #3320
    masterboy123
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,829 ✭✭✭masterboy123


    Hello All,

    I am planning to buy Drayton Smart radiator valves which wifi controlled.

    I would like to ask can it fit on my current radiator valve? Please see picture :

    20210406-113053.jpg


  • #3321
    championc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,183 ✭✭✭championc


    Technically yes - that is a manual TRV which the Drayton will replace.

    However, be aware that the Drayton does NOT come with a pack of adapters, so if the collar size is anything other than 30mm (I think this is the correct size), then a separate adapter would need to be purchased (at around €10 per rad).

    Tado include an adapter pack with all of their TRV's which suit 10's of valve types.


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  • #3322
    masterboy123
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,829 ✭✭✭masterboy123


    Thanks. I have ordered one from Amazon now.
    It says Danfoss RA valve is included in every box and works with 90% of the existing valves.
    championc wrote: »
    Technically yes - that is a manual TRV which the Drayton will replace.

    However, be aware that the Drayton does NOT come with a pack of adapters, so if the collar size is anything other than 30mm (I think this is the correct size), then a separate adapter would need to be purchased (at around €10 per rad).

    Tado include an adapter pack with all of their TRV's which suit 10's of valve types.


  • #3323
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    I'll probably won't need the adapter sets with my Tados so you're welcome to them if you need them, I'll just need to get my new valves installed first and I don't know when that will be


  • #3324
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    Just looking at a few YouTube videos for the tado and am a bit worried that I'm missing something.

    I've a simple boiler with no zones, I've an existing Netamo smart thermostat which I'm going to replace with the Tado smart thermostat. In addition I've gotten TRVs to control the rads, is that right or do I need an extension kit as well?


  • #3325
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Clareman wrote: »
    Just looking at a few YouTube videos for the tado and am a bit worried that I'm missing something.

    I've a simple boiler with no zones, I've an existing Netamo smart thermostat which I'm going to replace with the Tado smart thermostat. In addition I've gotten TRVs to control the rads, is that right or do I need an extension kit as well?

    You need the wireless extension kit if you want to control water heating as well.


  • #3326
    reignschaos
    Registered Users Posts: 94 ✭✭reignschaos


    deezell wrote: »
    Feck is right.
    These TRV bodies are good value,
    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp
    A bigger problem is if your old screw type valves have union joints to the rads, as all modern valves have compression fittings, a union TRV body is like hens teeth. It just means the union spigot into the rad has to be replaced by a compession spigot off the new valve. Makes the job messier and longer, but no problem for the plumber, it'll just take him a bit £ong€r. Have a look back here.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=114567296&postcount=2149

    @Deezell I trust all is well with yourself. Hope your not feeling the lockdown blues too much.

    Wonder can I ask your opinion on TRV replacements. A few of my TRVs have been causing issues over the winter (giving them a jiggle gets them going for a while) so out with the old and in with the new.

    EPH v Myson based on your posts
    The main differences seem to be Wax v Liquid Sensor and With/Without Frost Protection.

    Is either one better than the other? Is there a third alternative?


    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp#product_additional_details_container

    https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/myson-trv-2-way-valve-body-only.html

    Thanks


  • #3327
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    reignschaos wrote: »
    @Deezell I trust all is well with yourself. Hope your not feeling the lockdown blues too much.
    It's a complete PITH.
    Wonder can I ask your opinion on TRV replacements. A few of my TRVs have been causing issues over the winter (giving them a jiggle gets them going for a while) so out with the old and in with the new.

    EPH v Myson based on your posts
    The main differences seem to be Wax v Liquid Sensor and With/Without Frost Protection.

    Is either one better than the other? Is there a third alternative?


    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-trvb15-white-angled-trv-body-only-15mm-x-1-5/877hp#product_additional_details_container

    https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/myson-trv-2-way-valve-body-only.html

    Thanks

    Those links are for TRV valve bodies only. The TRV head is the mechanical thermostat that presses down the pin in the TRV body when set temperature is reached, it does this using a liquid or wax filled expanding chamber. Liquid considered the best, wax heads are more compact. See here; https://phpionline.co.uk/feature-articles/trvs-wax-vs-liquid/
    The third alternative TRV Head is of course electromechanical. These can be simple stand alone devices, not networked or smart, just a digital stat and maybe some timer programming done in the head. Smart TRV heads are of course networked and programmable, though all the smarts are generally built into the controlling app and receiver hub, the TRV just takes a temperature reading, sends it to the hub which replies with instructions to open or close the valve. There's a huge range of cheap digital TRV heads out there, as cheap as €20 online. Some more sophisticated than others, but apart from setting the temperature, it would be a pain to go round each one setting timings and local temperature schedules.
    If you just want to replace mechanical heads, the choice is also huge. Check that the sticking ones are not caused by the valve body, remove the head and see does the TRV pin move freely. A dart of WD40 on the pin and a good working in and out might suffice. There's no plumbing involved in replacing heads, but if you need to replace old and sticking valve bodies, you can buy complete TRV with head and body from as little as €8, to as much as €60+

    Check out entire Screwfix range, mechanical, battery, smart. https://www.screwfix.ie/c/heating-plumbing/thermostatic-radiator-valves/cat831012


  • #3328
    wotswattage
    Registered Users Posts: 592 ✭✭✭wotswattage


    Not sure if this is the best place for this post or should I start a new thread.

    We have an old 2 bed house with single zone heating and the hot water cylinder is heated whenever the boiler is on. This seems to be done via an open loop in the system going through the cylinder. We also have an electric immersion with a timer, but that has barely been used lately because of the cold weather as the boiler is heating our hot water every day.

    We also have a climote controller which is an absolutely useless piece of junk. Its just a timer. I was lead to believe it was some sort of magical technology :pac::pac:

    I intend to install Tado smart thermostats on all rads and a boiler controller where each rad will be able to call for the boiler to heat a specific room according to our schedule. (In fact I have put the smart thermostats on the upstairs rads and can now control the temperature in those rooms on the app. Obviously I still need to turn the heating on and off with the climote, but will be going full tado over the next few weeks)

    My main question is do I just leave the open loop going through the hot water cylinder or does it have to change something here too? Will it make the whole system less efficient having to heat the cylinder every time a Tado stat calls for the boiler to come on.


  • #3329
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    wotswattage wrote: »
    Not sure if this is the best place for this post or should I start a new thread.
    We have an old 2 bed house with single zone heating and the hot water cylinder is heated whenever the boiler is on....
    ...We also have a climote controller which is an absolutely useless piece of junk. Its just a timer. I was lead to believe it was some sort of magical technology :pac::pac:
    You should read the crap expounded by the promoters/believers of the hub controller stat. It appears to have supernatural powers. Unfortunately, these kind of wooly ethereal claims have been worked into the grant process, meaning large sums of money which should be funding real efficiency improvements, valves, trvs, smart zoning, geofencing etc, are instead being diverted into credits to energy utilities who use a little of it to replace your basic timer with..., a basic dumb single zone timer (with magical properties). Read more on this nonsense in the Hub controller thread
    I intend to install Tado smart thermostats on all rads and a boiler controller where each rad will be able to call for the boiler to heat a specific room according to our schedule. (In fact I have put the smart thermostats on the upstairs rads and can now control the temperature in those rooms on the app. Obviously I still need to turn the heating on and off with the climote, but will be going full tado over the next few weeks)

    My main question is do I just leave the open loop going through the hot water cylinder or does it have to change something here too? Will it make the whole system less efficient having to heat the cylinder every time a Tado stat calls for the boiler to come on.
    It will only be inefficient if your cylinder is uninsulated, in an upstairs hot press with big pipe air gaps through its ceiling into the attic. A modern deep insulated cylinder will just heat to the circulation temperature, then remain static with little loss.
    If you want to time HW in an attempt to reduce costs or because you have a lossy cylinder and press, you will need a zone valve installed on the HW loop, and the Tado extension kit to provide switching for the valve, and also switching for the boiler when you dump the Climote.


  • #3330
    wotswattage
    Registered Users Posts: 592 ✭✭✭wotswattage


    deezell wrote: »
    You should read the crap expounded by the promoters/believers of the hub controller stat. It appears to have supernatural powers. Unfortunately, these kind of wooly ethereal claims have been worked into the grant process, meaning large sums of money which should be funding real efficiency improvements, valves, trvs, smart zoning, geofencing etc, are instead being diverted into credits to energy utilities who use a little of it to replace your basic timer with..., a basic dumb single zone timer (with magical properties). Read more on this nonsense in the Hub controller thread

    It will only be inefficient if your cylinder is uninsulated, in an upstairs hot press with big pipe air gaps through its ceiling into the attic. A modern deep insulated cylinder will just heat to the circulation temperature, then remain static with little loss.
    If you want to time HW in an attempt to reduce costs or because you have a lossy cylinder and press, you will need a zone valve installed on the HW loop, and the Tado extension kit to provide switching for the valve, and also switching for the boiler when you dump the Climote.



    Okay thanks for the reply, not a huge deal so. The tank is lagged but its a few years old and the lagging jacket isn't exactly a tailored fit. Probably medium lossy! I understand that maintaining temperature in the tank isn't a huge deal. A zone switch sounds like a good option if I really want the extra control.

    We are toying with the idea of putting a combi boiler in we had one in a rented house before and liked that there was no wastage of unused heated water, plus you get a pump shower! We currently have one electric shower and one tank fed shower. The current boiler is a relatively new one so we may stick with it for another few years..


    Agreed re the marketing on climote its a load of spin!


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  • #3331
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    I've the tado thermostat installed now, have to say I'm a bit surprised that it's battery powered rather than taking the power from the wall as it has to be wired anyway.


  • #3332
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    Clareman wrote: »
    I've the tado thermostat installed now, have to say I'm a bit surprised that it's battery powered rather than taking the power from the wall as it has to be wired anyway.
    The wiring to a mechanical thermostat is generally only switched live from the old timer, no neutral wire, so you would need an additional neutral wire in order to complete a circuit to draw power for the stat. Unless you already had powered electronic stat or a mechanical stat with status lamps, its unlikely that a neutral wire would be present in the wall plate or box of the old stat. This would severely limit the use of the Tado aa a direct replacement for a vast number of existing wall stat installations. The battery cost is trivial, half a €2 6-pack of alkaline AAA from Eurogiant lasts a year.


  • #3333
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    deezell wrote: »
    The wiring to a mechanical thermostat is generally only switched live from the old timer, no neutral wire, so you would need an additional neutral wire in order to complete a circuit to draw power for the stat. Unless you already had powered electronic stat or a mechanical stat with status lamps, its unlikely that a neutral wire would be present in the wall plate or box of the old stat. This would severely limit the use of the Tado aa a direct replacement for a vast number of existing wall stat installations. The battery cost is trivial, half a €2 6-pack of alkaline AAA from Eurogiant lasts a year.

    I suppose I was lucky to already have the neutral, batteries don't bother me I got a load of cheap rechargeables a few years ago that I use for everything


  • #3334
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    Clareman wrote: »
    I suppose I was lucky to already have the neutral, batteries don't bother me I got a load of cheap rechargeables a few years ago that I use for everything
    Tado won't like rechargeables, it will keep giving battery end of life warnings. This is because NiCad or NiMh rechargeable batteries have only 1.2 volts per cell, 3.6 for three in series. This is in comparison to alkaline at 1.5, 4.5 in series. The stat will assume the batteries are almost flat, and drive you mad with messages.


  • #3335
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    Pack of these will last two years. 75c year. No need to buy premium alkalines, quadruple the price for minimal extra life. These are as good as any. Same goes for AA in the TRVs.
    549824.jpg


  • #3336
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    Every day is a school day, many thanks again


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  • #3337
    cubix
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Can I add on a Tado query:

    At the moment we have condensing gas boiler with 3 zones MV in the HP (2heat & 1HW), house never had wall stats. Was going to fit a standard 3CH EPH and add some form of a gateway so it could be controlled from a smartphone etc.

    I like the idea of fitting the Tado Internet bridge and smart TRV's to replace my bog standard TRV's and the fact you can control individual rooms on top of the zoned MV . In this case do I need to purchase the tado smart wall stats. If so do these stats need cables or are they wireless.


  • #3338
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    deezell wrote: »
    Tado won't like rechargeables, it will keep giving battery end of life warnings. This is because NiCad or NiMh rechargeable batteries have only 1.2 volts per cell, 3.6 for three in series. This is in comparison to alkaline at 1.5, 4.5 in series. The stat will assume the batteries are almost flat, and drive you mad with messages.

    Newer Tado devices are aware of the rechargables and will not bother one unnecessary.


  • #3339
    championc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,183 ✭✭✭championc


    cubix wrote: »
    Can I add on a Tado query:

    At the moment we have condensing gas boiler with 3 zones MV in the HP (2heat & 1HW), house never had wall stats. Was going to fit a standard 3CH EPH and add some form of a gateway so it could be controlled from a smartphone etc.

    I like the idea of fitting the Tado Internet bridge and smart TRV's to replace my bog standard TRV's and the fact you can control individual rooms on top of the zoned MV . In this case do I need to purchase the tado smart wall stats. If so do these stats need cables or are they wireless.

    A Smart Thermostat can be wired or wireless. If wireless, you need the Extension Kit, but an Extension Kit is needed if you want to control the heating of Hot Water.

    So Smart TRV's can talk to the Extension Kit without the need for a Smart Thermostat or else they talk to a Wired Smart Thermostat


  • #3340
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    grogi wrote: »
    Newer Tado devices are aware of the rechargables and will not bother one unnecessary.
    Only for the TRVs, and even then its a very specific NiMh they list, about €6 for each TRV.
    For the main Stat or a stat sensor its still Alkaline AAA only recommended.
    http://support.tado.com/en/articles/3403608-what-type-of-batteries-should-i-use-in-my-tado-devices-how-do-i-replace-them


  • #3341
    cubix
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    championc wrote: »
    A Smart Thermostat can be wired or wireless. If wireless, you need the Extension Kit, but an Extension Kit is needed if you want to control the heating of Hot Water.

    So Smart TRV's can talk to the Extension Kit without the need for a Smart Thermostat or else they talk to a Wired Smart Thermostat

    Thanks for that, so is there any benifit having a Tado wall stat in the setup if your rads have smart TRV's.


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  • #3342
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    cubix wrote: »
    Thanks for that, so is there any benifit having a Tado wall stat in the setup if your rads have smart TRV's.

    Wall stat gives much better temp readouts. I have them in two rooms, where the TRV had a bit restricted airflow and did think it was much warmer than it really was.


  • #3343
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    cubix wrote: »
    Thanks for that, so is there any benifit having a Tado wall stat in the setup if your rads have smart TRV's.

    My understanding is that if you only have 1 radiator in a room then you are better off with just the TRV but you need to realise that the temperature is the temperature closest to the radiator so adjust accordingly, a wall stat would have a more accurate temp for where you are sitting. That's just from my own research not from actual usage


  • #3344
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    cubix wrote: »
    Thanks for that, so is there any benifit having a Tado wall stat in the setup if your rads have smart TRV's.

    You must have one wired or wireless wall stat in the system in order to call the boiler on behalf of the TRVs. The ext kit alone can not act as a relay for the TRVs unless it is associated wirelessly with a stat. Without a wall stat, wired to the boiler or wireless to an ext kit, TRVs can only regulate room temperature while the boiler is active, but can not directly call the boiler.


  • #3345
    championc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,183 ✭✭✭championc


    My bad, thanks for the clarification


  • #3346
    Bawnmore
    Registered Users Posts: 1,786 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    For anyone with the Drayton Wiser system - we have 3 devices in the hall (room thermostat + 2 TRVs. When adding, I added as Hall/Hall 1/Hall 2 - I'm assuming this is wrong and I should be adding to one room so the room thermostat can act as the parent? At the moment, I'm guessing what's happening is that if the room thermostat is 1 degree cooler (which it usually is) and calls for heat, the TRV's don't care and stay closed - does that sound right?


  • #3347
    Paulzx
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,978 ✭✭✭Paulzx


    Yes. You need to add the 3 devices to the same room. The room thermostat will then take precedent over the 2 TRV's


  • #3348
    Bawnmore
    Registered Users Posts: 1,786 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Paulzx wrote: »
    Yes. You need to add the 3 devices to the same room. The room thermostat will then take precedent over the 2 TRV's

    Perfect - got it now - cheers.


  • #3349
    Blowheads
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 429 ✭✭Blowheads


    What is the best smart Stat, 2 zone plus HW
    I have and want rid of Nest due to constantly going offline

    Are ye not fond of climote?
    Do we like tado?
    What about hive?


  • #3350
    Josieg
    Registered Users Posts: 124 ✭✭Josieg


    Would anyone know if a Nest stat (or any stat) be placed in a bathroom/shower room? I've never seen one in a bathroom before so wondering if its a general electrical safety thing.


  • #3351
    Clareman
    Moderators, Sports Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 24,006 Mod ✭✭✭✭Clareman


    Blowheads wrote: »
    What is the best smart Stat, 2 zone plus HW
    I have and want rid of Nest due to constantly going offline

    Are ye not fond of climote?
    Do we like tado?
    What about hive?

    I had the Netamo for years and needed to change, all the research I've seen suggest that Tado is the way to go, especially with TRVs.

    If the Nest is constantly going offline I'd be checking the warranty on it, I've found Google brilliant and replacing things if they go flaky, even if out of warranty, they might even give you a discount on a new 1


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