Home heating automation

deezell

A litttle table to help grasp the different system setups

True single zone. CH and HW always on together. CH partially controlled by rad valves/TRVs. Sometimes a manual valve on the cylinder coil also to regulate it's flow share. Rarely fitted with a stat, usually just a timer.

Gravity single Zone, or 1.5 zone. HW to cylinder by gravity from the boiler, CH via the circulation pump. HW only possible and HW+CH. HW can be triggered by independent thermostat.

Fully pumped. Zone(s) are fed by one or more circulation pumps, via non return valves. More reliable than zone valves, but requires a relay wiring box as pumps don't have boiler call relays. All zones Inc. HW can have their own stat.

Zone valve S plan. An individual motorised valve for each zone, timer/stat controlled,which call the boiler via their grouped relay outputs.

Zone valve Y plan. A three port valve for 2 zone HW/CH, three state output, CH, HW, or both. In particular it lends itself to CH or HW priority boiler calling, where one zone is halted until the other is satisfied. It can often be incorporated into the boiler ( usually gas), or operated by the boiler to maintain efficiency, i.e, higher boiler flow temperature when heating HW to a cylinder, lower for modulated CH flow

Any of the above with TRVs. Manual trvs cap individual room temperature during a timed or zoned call. Smart TRVs can initiate this call, and can be slaved to a wall stat for temperature measuring of the room. In all cases of fully motorised zones or fully TRVd installations, a bypass next the boiler is recommended if there is no gravity sink, such as an open rad or a HW cylinder. An open loop at the end of a long run of TRV radiators is not uncommon, it facilitates faster response on the most remote radiators. That diagram posted earlier which appeared to show a loop at the end of the run was actually illustrating the return blending required for Underfloor heating, to reduce hot flow temperature and prevent burnt feet.

Shefwedfan

Ok, I am not sure if I asked before. I have on last count we have 21 radiators in house. All have TRV installed. System is just climote

To install lets say Tado is going to be at a considerable cost, I guess no other alternative available? its just pay it and see?

championc

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok, I am not sure if I asked before. I have on last count we have 21 radiators in house. All have TRV installed. System is just climote

To install lets say Tado is going to be at a considerable cost, I guess no other alternative available? its just pay it and see?

Just be aware that only 10 TRV's can be paired to a Smart Thermostat (if you wanted the TRV's to individually be able to fire the boiler). You can of course have 2 x Smart Thermostats, with 10 paired to each. One Smart Thermostat could be used to control the boiler while the other could be used to control a Zone Valve. (I'm sure @deezell will confirm if this is incorrect

Caillte

championc wrote: »

Just be aware that only 10 TRV's can be paired to a Smart Thermostat (if you wanted the TRV's to individually be able to fire the boiler). You can of course have 2 x Smart Thermostats, with 10 paired to each. One Smart Thermostat could be used to control the boiler while the other could be used to control a Zone Valve. (I'm sure @deezell will confirm if this is incorrect

I thought it was 10 rooms was the limit and not thermostats. FYI if you are going down the tado route (as i did) You need to contact tado and tell them which TRV you want paired with each smart wall stat so the correct call for heat gets answered. Its a fantastic system that i have been building up over the last few years. No need to go all out first time round. Just get the starter kit and go from there.

championc

I just got my May / Jun gas bill and my usage is looking low, which looks like Tado is already paying for itself. From my Solar PV output, June was crap so I expected more gas used. Mind you, May was an excellent month

2011

championc wrote: »

For the immersion, the Tado could control a simple valve leading into the cylinder inlet

That sounds like you are proposing installing a zone valve!

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok, I am not sure if I asked before. I have on last count we have 21 radiators in house. All have TRV installed. System is just climote

To install lets say Tado is going to be at a considerable cost, I guess no other alternative available? its just pay it and see?

Climote is a 3 zone timer with internal stat on zone 1, and just timing on the other zones. It is capable of additional wireless thermostat pairing to the other zones, though no mention of that on their website spiel. You can buy this extra stat for £39 on Amazon. The 'free' installation here results in a subscription for you, and a large EU energy grant for the utility installing it. If you had two zones, I doubt they will add in the necessary external stat for the second zone, as the grant requirements can be interpreted as two zones, 1 stat CH zone and one timed HW. No surprise then the recent news that EU grant aided heating efficiency improvements here were a con job.
On a post here recently, one of these companies was even combining a home's two CH zones into one, as their crappy product was single zone, removing the homes main method of saving.
Does your home have zone valves, do you set the climote seperately for all three zones on its display? Were you advised to add a stat for zone 2 ? If you choose to get a zone valve system plumbed in, your grant money has already been collected. First check if you have more than one CH zone With 21 rads, I'm surprised it's all on one. If you only have 1 CH zone, you can replace the Climote with a Tado plus ext kit to operate CH and HW zone valve, or just get the Tado stat only and wire it in place of your original mechanical stat, ( think you said installer left it wired in). Configure the climote to use the external stat, set climote Zone 1 always on, and let Climote continue to time the HW.
After this you can begin to add Tado smart TRVs, initially to give more control over rooms not required to be heated during the main heating cycle. Decide what you want your system to do, and add TRVs as and when. You can add an additional main stat to slave a group of TRVs to, so all go on or off according to this TRVsm's schedule, it acts as their temperature sensor. You can similarly slave a number of TRVs to one in the group, e.g. if you have 2 or 3 rads in the same room.

2011

deezell wrote: »

Sometimes a manual valve on the cylinder coil also to regulate it's flow share.

I have this valve. How much should it be open?

Zone valve S plan. An individual motorised valve for each zone, timer/stat controlled,which call the boiler via their grouped relay outputs.

This is what I have, but I only have 2 zones (DHW and radiators). Each is controlled by a Sonoff. Each Sonoff can be programmed independently.

Any of the above with TRVs.

Exactly. This is what I was trying to explain

Manual trvs cap individual room temperature during a timed or zoned call.

I also have this. I agree that smart TRVs would be better as they could call for the boiler. I call for the each zone valve with a timer (Sonoff) which in turn calls for the boiler. I could use the Sonoff temperature sensor (PT100) to control the boiler if I wished.

An open loop at the end of a long run of TRV radiators is not uncommon, it facilitates faster response on the most remote radiators.

That makes sense. So my earlier point to championc that hot water will still circulate through the circuit to radiators even when all TRV’s are closed is correct for the way many homes are plumbed? I see championc agrees with a zone valve on the hot water cylinder.

@ deezell: Thank you for the detailed reply.
Does this mean that I am correct in my assertion that it is better to have zone valves complementing TRVs as this increases repose time when a single zone is selected, improves efficiency and allows DHW or radiators to be heated indefinitely of each other or together?

deezell

Notionally, it would be peak efficiency to have motorised zone control over every rad or room, which is what you get with smart TRVs. (I forgot to include manifold connected microbore piping system to each room, popupular for a while, the manifold could be motorised).

Motorised Zoned valves with mechanical TRVs is also a good option. You have two levels of control, zoning and fixed temperature capping. Just two or more motors to fail, no batteries.

Adding smart TRVs to the above in phases allows you to fine tune efficiency and comfort, dropping out unused rooms and boosting others without heating the entire house. With a full Smart TRV setup, Zone valves become redundant, but might be part of your legacy system, and give you fallback when TRV batteries fail, TRVs may stick or need recalibration, causing them to be partially open.

You'll find systems with no bypass, safe enough as the boiler should never fire unless at least one zone valve is open to supply the SL, but retrofitted smart TRVs (or just the householder shutting down all the rad valves) can lead to a closed system, so the bypass is a good safety feature, it allows a boiler to safely cycle if a stat is calling it but no rads are drawing the flow, which could happen easily enough in a mixed system not optimallly set up.

The valve on the cylinder flow is most likely there to prevent the cylinder hogging all the flow from the pump when the cylinder is plumbed across the flow and return just like another rad. Without it, remote radiators will barely heat. Having it's own timed/cylinder stat controlled zone valve means you can set when it operates, and you can also wire a priority system for CH over HW using the NC terminals of the CH stats/timers, though with modulated smart stat control the HW might never get a break. Cylinder flows were often plumbed by gravity, from seperate ports on the boiler (many oil boilers have two sets either side), or from the same ports but before the circulation pump, using a special tee junction connector called a venturi to ensure the pump when activated did not reverse the flow through the cylinder, cooling the HW with return CH flow

All of the above are scenarios encountered when dealing with legacy systems, and moving towards a fully valved system. There's more parts to go wrong in a fully TRV valved system. A house with fully closed off rooms can feel uncomfortable if the house insulation is poor, and these rooms are freezing. They'll be chilling the next door rooms anyway, and the hall/landing if their doors are ajar, so perhaps general zone valve heating with some room offsets controlled by smart TRVs is optimal for the comfort feel, marginally sub optimal for efficiency. Savings made by having a zone valve as well as full TRVs though would be tiny, as heat losses could only occur by leakage on the trv valve bodies themselves, which would manifest as warm rads that should be cold.

2011

deezell wrote: »

Notionally, it would be peak efficiency to have motorised zone control over every rad or room

I have hardwired this in large homes where there is a bank of motorized valves (one per room) and a stat per room (for underfloor heating).
Very effective but slow response time as it is underfloor and the entire slab has to heat.

Motorised Zoned valves with mechanical TRVs is also a good option.

Agreed, this works well for me.
However I would prefer it if I the rads were split between upstairs and downstairs rather than both feed from 1 zone valve.

You'll find systems with no bypass, safe enough as the boiler should never fire unless at least one zone valve is open to supply the SL, but retrofitted smart TRVs (or just the householder shutting down all the rad valves) can lead to a closed system, so the bypass is a good safety feature, it allows a boiler to safely cycle if a stat is calling it but no rads are drawing the flow, which could happen easily enough in a mixed system not optimallly set up.

See the bolded part: I have wired mine this way. However even though the boiler is no longer firing (as all valves are closed) the pump overrun continues for a set time. In this case I would take it that the bypass is being used for this purpose.

The valve on the cylinder flow is most likely there to prevent the cylinder hogging all the flow from the pump when the cylinder is plumbed across the flow and return just like another rad. Without it, remote radiators will barely heat.

This is not an issue for me as I normally heat radiators or DHW. It would not normally require both at the same time. I take your point though.

Having it's own timed/cylinder stat controlled zone valve means you can set when it operates, and you can also wire a priority system for CH over HW using the NC terminals of the CH stats/timers, though with modulated smart stat control the HW might never get a break.

I essentially achieve this by offsetting timers but am considering a hardwired interlock to prioritize the DHW (for those rare occasions that the 2 coincide).

Cylinder flows were often plumbed by gravity, from seperate ports on the boiler (many oil boilers have two sets either side), or from the same ports but before the circulation pump, using a special tee junction connector called a venturi to ensure the pump when activated did not reverse the flow through the cylinder, cooling the HW with return CH flow

In my case the hot water cylinder is gravity fed. I have one flow and one return from the boiler that goes directly to the hot press. From there it splits to the two zone valves, one for the hot water cylinder and one for all of the radiators.

Savings made by having a zone valve as well as full TRVs though would be tiny, as heat losses could only occur by leakage on the trv valve bodies themselves, which would manifest as warm rads that should be cold.

Surly there would be heat loss from the radiator circuit as well even when all TRV's are closed? In my home none of these pipes were insulated (I have addressed this to some extent). Obviously I have the radiators off all summer so now the only open route is directly from the boiler to the hot water cylinder/ bypass (which is beside the cylinder).

I tend to avoid using the radiators as much as I can by lighting my wood burning stove (no back boiler) and improving the insulation in my home.

deezell

If all the rads on a branch or zone have closed TRVs, there should be no flow on the uninsulated hot flow pipe, however, TRV valve bodies may not have perfect seals, so you might detect that the radiator hot flow pipe is, em, hot, even though the TRVs are shut. The losses are trivial, and would only occur when the boiler and pump are firing for perhaps HW, or some open TRVs on a different branch. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Insulate exposed flow pipes. The ones underfloor would surely be insulated, behind partition walls or across first floor joists, maybe not, but not worth pulling floorboards for. That little bit of heat stays in the house anyway. Theres likely far more lost from the heated boiler jacket when the boiler cuts off, and is cooled by an outside draught through its flue. I've never seen a proposal to automatically seal the flue in between firings to stop losses, with good reason. It would be an accident waiting to happen.
It does raise a discussion though on heating HW only during the summer. With a well insulated cylinder, the heat losses are trivial, and I've stated before there is no great loss in keeping it fully topped by its stat, without using timed slots as was the preference in older installs with bare cylinders, who loose lagging jacket lay at its base like a drunk's trousers.
I'll modify this advice a little by saying that if your boiler is older, large with big sized water jacket, there could be some additional losses if it were constantly firing, keeping the jacket water temperature high, effectively like a radiator being cooled by a draught out through the flue. In this instance the mechanical stat on the cylinder is ideal over digital, as it has sufficient hysteresis, difference in trigger temperature, to prevent constant cycling. E.g, set to cut at 60° , probably cuts at 63-64°, then doesn't cut back on again until 56-57. This flue heat loss is less an issue with gas, as the boiler heat exchanger capacity is quite small.
Timing the HW might seem to offer a solution to constant jacket cooling, but a cold jacket has to be reheated next event, so.. Plenty of theory to chew on there, and a research project for some third level student, or even a keen Young Scientist.

2011

deezell wrote: »

If all the rads on a branch or zone have closed TRVs, there should be no flow on the uninsulated hot flow pipe

Earlier you said "An open loop at the end of a long run of TRV radiators is not uncommon, it facilitates faster response on the most remote radiators". My point is that this open loop would result in heat loss even if all TRVs are closed and fully seated. How would it not?
I would think that the total length of run and therefor total surface area must equate to at least one radiator fully on belting out heat.

Insulate exposed flow pipes. The ones underfloor would surely be insulated, behind partition walls or across first floor joists, maybe not, but not worth pulling floorboards for.

I did what was accessible when lifting floor boards and when renovating bathroom.
As you say I wouldn't rip the house apart just to add more insulation to these pipes.

It does raise a discussion though on heating HW only during the summer. With a well insulated cylinder, the heat losses are trivial, and I've stated before there is no great loss in keeping it fully topped by its stat, without using timed slots as was the preference in older installs with bare cylinders, who loose lagging jacket lay at its base like a drunk's trousers.

The definition of "well insulated" varies a lot. I live in a Celtic Tiger built house :rolleyes: I take your point though.

In this instance the mechanical stat on the cylinder is ideal over digital, as it has sufficient hysteresis, difference in trigger temperature, to prevent constant cycling. E.g, set to cut at 60° , probably cuts at 63-64°, then doesn't cut back on again until 56-57.

Interestingly amount of hysteresis is fully configurable with Sonoff TH16. I assume that your point is that with basic on/off control the risk with low hysteresis is frequent short duration stop / starts of the boiler?

Not only can the sate of the TH16 be observed from your phone but so can the current temperature. Additionally the set points can be adjusted for both on and off via the (clunky) free app. Not bad for a €20 device.

I also did a 2 point calibration check on the temperature sensor and it was accurate to +/- 0.1 DegC (I worked as an instrumentation technician in a previous life).

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

Climote is a 3 zone timer with internal stat on zone 1, and just timing on the other zones. It is capable of additional wireless thermostat pairing to the other zones, though no mention of that on their website spiel. You can buy this extra stat for £39 on Amazon. The 'free' installation here results in a subscription for you, and a large EU energy grant for the utility installing it. If you had two zones, I doubt they will add in the necessary external stat for the second zone, as the grant requirements can be interpreted as two zones, 1 stat CH zone and one timed HW. No surprise then the recent news that EU grant aided heating efficiency improvements here were a con job.
On a post here recently, one of these companies was even combining a home's two CH zones into one, as their crappy product was single zone, removing the homes main method of saving.
Does your home have zone valves, do you set the climote seperately for all three zones on its display? Were you advised to add a stat for zone 2 ? If you choose to get a zone valve system plumbed in, your grant money has already been collected. First check if you have more than one CH zone With 21 rads, I'm surprised it's all on one. If you only have 1 CH zone, you can replace the Climote with a Tado plus ext kit to operate CH and HW zone valve, or just get the Tado stat only and wire it in place of your original mechanical stat, ( think you said installer left it wired in). Configure the climote to use the external stat, set climote Zone 1 always on, and let Climote continue to time the HW.
After this you can begin to add Tado smart TRVs, initially to give more control over rooms not required to be heated during the main heating cycle. Decide what you want your system to do, and add TRVs as and when. You can add an additional main stat to slave a group of TRVs to, so all go on or off according to this TRVsm's schedule, it acts as their temperature sensor. You can similarly slave a number of TRVs to one in the group, e.g. if you have 2 or 3 rads in the same room.

Thanks, Climote has 2 zones. One for heating the house which is on the old thermostat and one for the hot water. The hot water has thermostat as well. I do have a Climote thermostat sitting in a box :-) but on install it was not recommended to use. Now I did get the Climote in another house and moved it myself. Just got local electrician to install.



The house has a maze of pumps which you could in reality spilt up into three zones with three thermostats to turn on/off independently but its not set up like that. I think the reason is it is not 3 distinct areas, zone 1 and zone 2 would have rads in each other zones if you know what I mean.


So I was instead thinking of smart TRV, its just the quantity of radiators. I dont think I the climote is the best option either, especially as knwo the subscription has run out. Have contacted them twice to renew but they never came back

deezell

They've got their EU grant money for your installation, far more than what the stat cost them. You have no further momentary value to them. Tado with ext kit is a good option to replace dud Climote, no sub for the key features. Add TRVs as and when you want to fine control a room.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

They've got their EU grant money for your installation, far more than what the stat cost them. You have no further momentary value to them. Tado with ext kit is a good option to replace dud Climote, no sub for the key features. Add TRVs as and when you want to fine control a room.

The climote was installed in another house, I never claimed the EU money for this house. I done the job cash in hand to move it over



Can I get the Tado installed via a grant scheme?

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

The climote was installed in another house, I never claimed the EU money for this house. I done the job cash in hand to move it over



Can I get the Tado installed via a grant scheme?

You're still grant eligible, that's something at least. I haven't read the heating grant rules recently, but you need an approved installer to install at least 2 zone smart controls afaik. It seems to have been stilted towards energy companies getting the cash to promote installations which vaguely can be construed to deliver savings, based on statistical research. It's all too dodgy, but none of the utility companies carried out real improvements such as installing zone valves. I've never seen Tado offered by any of the' free installation' utilities. You'll need to get a time and materials quote from an approved installer, if that's still possible.
Maybe keep the self initiated grant option if it still exists for possible plumbing improvements, just get the kit yourself and get a sparks to swap out the Climote if your not confident to DIY yourself.

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

You're still grant eligible, that's something at least. I haven't read the heating grant rules recently, but you need an approved installer to install at least 2 zone smart controls afaik. It seems to have been stilted towards energy companies getting the cash to promote installations which vaguely can be construed to deliver savings, based on statistical research. It's all too dodgy, but none of the utility companies carried out real improvements such as installing zone valves. I've never seen Tado offered by any of the' free installation' utilities. You'll need to get a time and materials quote from an approved installer, if that's still possible.
Maybe keep the self initiated grant option if it still exists for possible plumbing improvements, just get the kit yourself and get a sparks to swap out the Climote if your not confident to DIY yourself.

Netatamo is what is offered by Energia who I am with......they have a smart TRV from what I can see but is it as good as Tado?

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Netatamo is what is offered by Energia who I am with......they have a smart TRV from what I can see but is it as good as Tado?

It doesn't have HW timer control or relay, just CH. If you already had a manual HW timer, or a cylinder stat, you just leave these. Good option for existing wall stat replacement, as a wired version like Tado is available. It also can add smart TRVs. I don't see mention of geofencing, but it has Alexa, Google Home and Apple Home kit connectivity, so you can use these to automate away functions. No subs or fees. I'm not sure how the energia people are able to scoff your grant entitlement by only smart upgrading a single zone, but I guess its the same ruse that Hubcontroller used, which is some vague statistical justification for cost savings without any extra zoning. You can't get it in free if you previously drew the grant for 'real' heating control upgrades, or even bogus ones. If you get this free stat, you won't be able to get a grant later for 'real' heating control upgrades, such as zone valve installation. DIY price is €139 from Currys this minute, which is not bad, it's costing energia a lot less than this, plus maybe €50 per Install, (they'll only take on the most basic single zone jobs), installers get through several per day, and who knows how much they get for your grant. They wont tell you. Nice one.
Read the plan change small print, you might be paying for this in the long run.
Smart TRVs are all much the same imo, they're a mini version of the wall stat with a valve actuator.

Mickeroo

Is your heating zoned Shef? Once Energia saw ours was zoned they wouldn't do the netatmo install.

deezell

Mickeroo wrote: »

Is your heating zoned Shef? Once Energia saw ours was zoned they wouldn't do the netatmo install.

Yep, in-out jobs only, nothing requiring the use of a brain cell.

Clareman

I think the Energia offer was only for houses over a certain age without zoned heating

2011

@ deezell:

Clearly you know a lot more about plumbing than me. I would really appreciate a reply to the question I put to you at the start of this post.

This is regarding you earlier statement that "An open loop at the end of a long run of TRV radiators is not uncommon, it facilitates faster response on the most remote radiators.”

I would appreciate your insight.

Thank you.

deezell

2011 wrote: »

@ deezell:

Clearly you know a lot more about plumbing than me. I would really appreciate a reply to the question I put to you at the start of this post.

This is regarding you earlier statement that "An open loop at the end of a long run of TRV radiators is not uncommon, it facilitates faster response on the most remote radiators.”

I would appreciate your insight.

Thank you.

It's used in legacy systems, maybe old large period house, water circulates around a loop. Radiators are tapped onto the large diameter hot flow pipe, dropping their cooled return back to the same pipe. A two pipe system is like your present system, a seperate cooled return pipe, but looped to allow continuous flow of hot past the rads for instant response. A very large house/guesthouse/hotel, community heated apartments, any installation where the boiler is not fired by radiator demand. Properly insulated, the losses would be trivial, and in a private residence would be effectively zero, as the circulation pump and boiler would be off during zero CH demand If the demand is HW only, and this is gravity fed, the pump is off, and if the HW is pumped, then usually the system is zone valved. Only if you have a single fully pumped zone, to CH and HW, will such a loop circulate in a HW only situation, assuming all rads were closed. If it's the summer, then you're losing a little while the cylinder heats, no real loss if it's winter.
It was common in such rudimentary heating installations to have to walk the house and close every rad valve to get HW only in the summer, loop or not. It would be highly unlikely to see such a loop at the end of a heating pipe run in an ordinary house, but you never know, there's a huge amount of DIY and make it up as you go plumbing out there. It could be mooted as a frost protection method, if distant rooms have their rads turned off, it's not impossible static pipes under the uninsulated floorboard space vented to the ouside could freeze. People lived in houses like that, frost in the morning on the inside of the windows and on the ceiling nearest the wall. I should know. Mind you, we had no underfloor pipes or radiators to worry about.

Shefwedfan

Mickeroo wrote: »

Is your heating zoned Shef? Once Energia saw ours was zoned they wouldn't do the netatmo install.

It has water and temp at the moment to a single stat....so two zones

Shefwedfan

deezell wrote: »

It doesn't have HW timer control or relay, just CH. If you already had a manual HW timer, or a cylinder stat, you just leave these. Good option for existing wall stat replacement, as a wired version like Tado is available. It also can add smart TRVs. I don't see mention of geofencing, but it has Alexa, Google Home and Apple Home kit connectivity, so you can use these to automate away functions. No subs or fees. I'm not sure how the energia people are able to scoff your grant entitlement by only smart upgrading a single zone, but I guess its the same ruse that Hubcontroller used, which is some vague statistical justification for cost savings without any extra zoning. You can't get it in free if you previously drew the grant for 'real' heating control upgrades, or even bogus ones. If you get this free stat, you won't be able to get a grant later for 'real' heating control upgrades, such as zone valve installation. DIY price is €139 from Currys this minute, which is not bad, it's costing energia a lot less than this, plus maybe €50 per Install, (they'll only take on the most basic single zone jobs), installers get through several per day, and who knows how much they get for your grant. They wont tell you. Nice one.
Read the plan change small print, you might be paying for this in the long run.
Smart TRVs are all much the same imo, they're a mini version of the wall stat with a valve actuator.

I think the grant is 700 isn’t it? Can you buy the equipment yourself and get it installed and claim grant?

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I think the grant is 700 isn’t it? Can you buy the equipment yourself and get it installed and claim grant?

Don't see why not, if you can get an approved installer to split quote into parts and materials. Could be messy with VAT etc. Make me sick to think utilities could trouser 700 for a cheap stat and a 20 minute install.

deezell

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I think the grant is 700 isn’t it? Can you buy the equipment yourself and get it installed and claim grant?

Don't see why not, if you can get an approved installer to split quote into parts and materials. Could be messy with VAT etc. Make me sick to think utilities could trouser 700 for a cheap stat and a 20 minute install.

xckjoo

I'm gonna wire in my new Tado Smart Thermostat and want to double check the wiring as there's only L(in)1, L(out)4, N(in)2 and N(out)3 notation (vs. the COM, NO, NC notation of the Tado). I found this old thread that looks like it might be applicable. So for me it would be L(in)1 to COM and L(in)4 to NO and then the two N's are joined parked in the Tado?



wiring.jpg

Edit: One other quick question. Are those 3 "parking" blocks on the Tado connected or will I need to connect the N wires together and then connect a common line to one of them?

deezell

xckjoo wrote: »

I'm gonna wire in my new Tado Smart Thermostat and want to double check the wiring as there's only L(in)1, L(out)4, N(in)2 and N(out)3 notation (vs. the COM, NO, NC notation of the Tado). I found this old thread that looks like it might be applicable. So for me it would be L(in)1 to COM and L(in)4 to NO and then the two N's are joined parked in the Tado?



wiring.jpg

Edit: One other quick question. Are those 3 "parking" blocks on the Tado connected or will I need to connect the N wires together and then connect a common line to one of them?

You have it right. Right also re. the parking terminals, but there should be enough space in one to push both N wires in, to park and link.

championc

Tado should be able to give you full exact details of how to wire it up