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UPC Cisco EPC3925: Enabling True Bridge Mode - A Simple How-to Guide

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    I think the EPC2425 did the same.
    Maybe that's the real reason they don't want you doing it, hence hiding the functionality in the EPC3925. :eek:


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    Maybe that's the real reason they don't want you doing it, hence hiding the functionality in the EPC3925. :eek:

    Does this mean that devices connected to the EPC when bridged are using up multiple public IP addresses of which UPC have a limited number they can assign?
    Better add the disabling of the EPC wifi before bridging to the original guide!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Does this mean that devices connected to the EPC when bridged are using up multiple public IP addresses of which UPC have a limited number they can assign?
    Better add the disabling of the EPC wifi before bridging to the original guide!!
    Hi Songok,

    Already done, I have requested another edit from Cabaal since late last week by PM. Just waiting for him to log on and apply the new post content I provided with step one being to disable certain functions, including WiFi.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    Hi Songok,

    Already done, I have requested another edit from Cabaal since late last week by PM. Just waiting for him to log on and apply the new post content I provided with step one being to disable certain functions, including WiFi.

    Way ahead of me!
    Thanks for the tips re. disabling the wifi etc earlier, nice to have one less SSID showing!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Way ahead of me!
    Thanks for the tips re. disabling the wifi etc earlier, nice to have one less SSID showing!
    Yeah that could be a problem, especially if you're in a busy area, with extra interference. The neighbors might not be all too happy about it either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,487 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Cheers! It's amazing how incompetent this has shown them to be (both in not removing the actual code, and in how their DHCP servers deal with the router when running in bridged mode!).
    Au contraire, it's not incompetent at all and is perfectly normal behaviour.

    If you're connecting through the wireless on the bridged EPC (or even the ethernet ports) then each connected device will ask for, and get, a separate IP address, as the built in wireless AP is effectively connected internally to the ethernet ports. It's the same situation as if you'd taken a simple cable modem (not router), attached an ethernet switch to it and connected 3 wired clients to it.

    AFAIK UPC only allow 3 addresses per connection, so if you connect a 4th one it will kick one of the other 3 off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Alun wrote: »
    AFAIK UPC only allow 3 addresses per connection, so if you connect a 4th one it will kick one of the other 3 off.
    That's good to know, I wasn't sure if there'd be a limit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,598 ✭✭✭boomkatalog


    Alun wrote: »
    Au contraire, it's not incompetent at all and is perfectly normal behaviour.

    If you're connecting through the wireless on the bridged EPC (or even the ethernet ports) then each connected device will ask for, and get, a separate IP address, as the built in wireless AP is effectively connected internally to the ethernet ports. It's the same situation as if you'd taken a simple cable modem (not router), attached an ethernet switch to it and connected 3 wired clients to it.

    AFAIK UPC only allow 3 addresses per connection, so if you connect a 4th one it will kick one of the other 3 off.
    It's not the same situation. One is a wireless router (so assumed to be either able to handle internal DHCP or handing off the connection to a device that can handle internal DHCP) and the other is a simple ethernet/usb cable modem that's a dumb terminal.

    There's no legitimate reason for a modern consumer combined modem/router to act this way, while there may have been in the past (although fwiw, I've had UPC/NTL since 2001 and at least in 2001-2003, you were only assigned 1 IP address and connecting a switch did nothing).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,487 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    It's not the same situation. One is a wireless router (so assumed to be either able to handle internal DHCP or handing off the connection to a device that can handle internal DHCP) and the other is a simple ethernet/usb cable modem that's a dumb terminal.

    There's no legitimate reason for a modern consumer combined modem/router to act this way, while there may have been in the past (although fwiw, I've had UPC/NTL since 2001 and at least in 2001-2003, you were only assigned 1 IP address and connecting a switch did nothing).
    But when you place the router in bridge mode, then it's not a router any more and the internal DHCP server is (or at least should be) disabled along with any routing or NAT functionality. Offering private DHCP addresses from the internal DHCP server to connected clients in such a scenario would be pointless as there's no NAT taking place, and you'd then have no Internet connectivity. Any DHCP requests from connected clients will then simply be forwarded on to UPC's network as you have seen, and each device gets it's own public IP address.

    I know that in the past UPC would offer 3 addresses, as back in the day when they were only offering modems, people on here were attaching their old eircom ADSL routers by connecting their modems to one of the router's ethernet ports, and although this would work up to a point (albeit with none of the security offered by NAT or firewall), odd things started happening when more than 3 clients were connected, either wired or wireless. I don't have first hand experience of this, but there are old threads on here relating such experiences if you search.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    Alun wrote: »
    It's not the same situation. One is a wireless router (so assumed to be either able to handle internal DHCP or handing off the connection to a device that can handle internal DHCP) and the other is a simple ethernet/usb cable modem that's a dumb terminal.

    There's no legitimate reason for a modern consumer combined modem/router to act this way, while there may have been in the past (although fwiw, I've had UPC/NTL since 2001 and at least in 2001-2003, you were only assigned 1 IP address and connecting a switch did nothing).
    But when you place the router in bridge mode, then it's not a router any more and the internal DHCP server is (or at least should be) disabled along with any routing or NAT functionality. Offering private DHCP addresses from the internal DHCP server to connected clients in such a scenario would be pointless as there's no NAT taking place, and you'd then have no Internet connectivity. Any DHCP requests from connected clients will then simply be forwarded on to UPC's network as you have seen, and each device gets it's own public IP address.

    I know that in the past UPC would offer 3 addresses, as back in the day when they were only offering modems, people on here were attaching their old eircom ADSL routers by connecting their modems to one of the router's ethernet ports, and although this would work up to a point (albeit with none of the security offered by NAT or firewall), odd things started happening when more than 3 clients were connected, either wired or wireless. I don't have first hand experience of this, but there are old threads on here relating such experiences if you search.
    The whole point of this thread iis about using yiur own router connected to the epc ...so i dont see where this thing abiut using multiple public ip's comes in...yiu will still only be using one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,487 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    The whole point of this thread iis about using yiur own router connected to the epc ...so i dont see where this thing abiut using multiple public ip's comes in...yiu will still only be using one.
    It came about because if you forget to disable the wireless on the bridged router, then any clients that, accidentally or otherwise, connect to it will get public IP's and not be protected by any firewall or NAT functionality, that's all.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    Alun wrote: »
    It came about because if you forget to disable the wireless on the bridged router, then any clients that, accidentally or otherwise, connect to it will get public IP's and not be protected by any firewall or NAT functionality, that's all.

    ah yes , I was under the impression that If you put it into bridge mode that the wireless would automatically be disabled.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 178 ✭✭toddunctious


    Thanks DECEiFER works great :)


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Thank you so much DECEiFER..

    Well done, much appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 cmd105


    Hi Guys,

    I'm trying to setup a bridge connection between my 2 routers and share the internet connection but i'm getting a few problems along the way.

    My Routers:
    CISCO EPC3925
    Netgear DGN3300V2

    I done the steps described by DECEiFER and everything went fine.
    Switched to bridge mode , rebooted and next time i try to log in i get this:
    epc3925bridge5.png

    I'm guessin that part is fine..

    On my NetGear router i switched all the boxes to dynamic (pic below) pretty much so it can get the config from the CISCO router and to get internet connection on my NetGear since it is a N Router and much better than the Cisco one.
    i2ixqw.png

    I have both routers connected by an ethernet cable on the port1 in them both.

    The problem is that i'm getting no connection to the internet, if i try to repair the connection gives me an error that could not establish a connection with the DNS.

    Can anyone help me on this one?

    Cheers


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    cmd105 wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    I'm trying to setup a bridge connection between my 2 routers and share the internet connection but i'm getting a few problems along the way.

    My Routers:
    CISCO EPC3925
    Netgear DGN3300V2

    I done the steps described by DECEiFER and everything went fine.
    Switched to bridge mode , rebooted and next time i try to log in i get this:
    epc3925bridge5.png

    I'm guessin that part is fine..

    On my NetGear router i switched all the boxes to dynamic (pic below) pretty much so it can get the config from the CISCO router and to get internet connection on my NetGear since it is a N Router and much better than the Cisco one.
    i2ixqw.png

    I have both routers connected by an ethernet cable on the port1 in them both.

    The problem is that i'm getting no connection to the internet, if i try to repair the connection gives me an error that could not establish a connection with the DNS.

    Can anyone help me on this one?

    Cheers
    That's an ADSL modem/router you got there. It probably won't work, sadly. :(

    So, I think you'll need a proper standalone router for this to work for you. Until then you're most-likely stuck with the EPC3925 in Router mode.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 cmd105


    damn..is there any way i could make it work?
    I have my netgear connected to a media center with some movies and stuff, but everytime i need to access the media center need to connect to the wireless of the netgear, and when i want internet need to connect to cisco..:S


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    To be honest with you, I'm not sure if there is a way to make it work on that particular model (I know my older DG843GT isn't able for it and some other Netgear models of that era that I had previously come across). So, I'm guessing it's a no (and I do stress the word guess), but if you want to be sure, I'd ask over on the Netgear support forum about your model specifically, or look into custom firmware to see if it unhides the existing functionality (if it exists).

    If all that fails, then you'll have to splash out on a cable router (WNDR models in the same High Performance category as yours) and I think the WNDR3800 would be the best for all your needs. You can go for a cheaper model by all means, like the WNDR3400, which is more equivalent to your DGN3300v2 - but both are N600 routers while yours is a N300.

    That's all the best advice I can give you. I wish it could be better news as the DGN3300v2 isn't a bad piece of equipment it seems like a waste now that you're using cable broadband instead of ADSL.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Hi all, just to let you know, Cabaal has done the edits I've asked for in the first post. The topic title has been tweaked slightly (for the better, I hope!) and the first post has been amended to remove all references to the phone service not working that were left behind in the last edit by accident and I have also included a new step in the guide - to disable all routing functions, with examples.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    DECEiFER, I was wondering if you could help me out seeing how great you have been for others in this thread, fair play to you.

    I tried to set this up earlier but ended up having no internet access, similar to the Netgear poster above, it's my router isn't it?

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Belkin-N-Wireless-ADSL-Modem-Router-stand-bundle-F5D8636-New-/120994470341?pt=UK_Computing_Wireless_Routers&hash=item1c2bd519c5#ht_2758wt_906

    That's what I'm working with. No use?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Mikeyt086 wrote: »
    DECEiFER, I was wondering if you could help me out seeing how great you have been for others in this thread, fair play to you.

    I tried to set this up earlier but ended up having no internet access, similar to the Netgear poster above, it's my router isn't it?

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Belkin-N-Wireless-ADSL-Modem-Router-stand-bundle-F5D8636-New-/120994470341?pt=UK_Computing_Wireless_Routers&hash=item1c2bd519c5#ht_2758wt_906

    That's what I'm working with. No use?
    Hi Mikey,

    It may be your router because it's an ADSL modem/router combo and only some manufacturers and models allow it to double-up as a standalone device. Most rely on the ADSL connectivity to get Internet access and won't get the WAN IP from any other modem or router. If you're sure that it isn't going to work, then what I've said is most likely going to be the issue.

    In that case, I would definitely consider looking at some of the recommendations above, the WNDR3800 being a brilliant device at a reasonable enough price.


    EDIT: Just to add, if €90-€120 is a bit much to spend, there are still very good cheaper alternatives from Netgear and other manufacturers. If you need recommendations, just reply back and ask!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 932 ✭✭✭lotas


    question for you all... i changed my 2 modems to run on bridged mode, and all was well for a while, but for the last few days i have been noticing speed issues... I am now wondering if its the briding mode, or my router... So, anyone noticing any issues?

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    None at all for me and I've been bridging for nearly 3 weeks straight.

    Why don't you ping your router and your EPC (192.168.100.1) to see if you're getting the normal low latencies you're supposed to get? Anything above 2ms via wireless, I'd consider to be a problem. If you're wired to your router, 1ms should be the max, but again, 2ms is not going to have a noticeable detriment (it would need to be a bit higher than that for sure).

    Have you tried doing a cold restart/reboot of both devices?

    If nothing comes from those tests, you should go back to Router mode and DMZ your router's assigned IP in the EPC, just to test it out and see what's what?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 932 ✭✭✭lotas


    Thanks DECEiFER. I will try it out and see whats going on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    Right DECEiFER I have another few questions for you.

    I've never edited the html code of a website before. The simple instructions of "Copy and paste the code and apply the changes" go completely over my head. So I copy the new code, that's not a problem, and I'm in Opera so I hit CTRL + SHIFT + I and I can view the source code, what now? I can delete the existing html, but I don't know how to do anything else like where to paste the new code in or how to apply the changes when I do.

    Sorry for the noobishness of my questions, just don't know what else to do really. Can't go on with this wifi range as it is, it's so poor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,207 ✭✭✭miralize


    Got this done in 5 mins cheers DECEiFER. Airport Express now powering my home network :)

    @Mikeyt When you remove the old code, scroll down to the bottom of the pastebin link click inside the raw data textfield, select all and copy.

    From there you just paste into the field where you deleted the old code and click apply changes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Mikeyt086 wrote: »
    Right DECEiFER I have another few questions for you.

    I've never edited the html code of a website before. The simple instructions of "Copy and paste the code and apply the changes" go completely over my head. So I copy the new code, that's not a problem, and I'm in Opera so I hit CTRL + SHIFT + I and I can view the source code, what now? I can delete the existing html, but I don't know how to do anything else like where to paste the new code in or how to apply the changes when I do.

    Sorry for the noobishness of my questions, just don't know what else to do really. Can't go on with this wifi range as it is, it's so poor.
    No worries, you're half-way there but instead of Ctrl-Shift-I, hit Ctrl-U instead. Delete the HTML code from the Source from there and then you paste the new code into the same space (Ctrl-V or right-click > Paste), followed by hitting the Apply Changes button at the top of the window. Once done, the go back to the Management page tab and you should notice the change, being that a Working Mode drop-down box is added to the options on the page. Then select Bridged Only and hit the Save Settings button at the bottom of the page. The router should then reboot automatically.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Wow I just found this thread - so it's now finally possible to use your own router with UPC :D

    I'm currently using the awful 2425 on the 25mbit plan, never upgraded because I wanted to reserve the right to cancel at any time :) But I need full bridge mode for a VPN router soon. I was thinking of moving to Vodafone ADSL but their upstream is only 1 mbit (obviously, as it's ADSL).

    Is there a way to make sure to get the 3925? Like getting the 150mbit plan or something, or is there a chance to get the Thompson even then? I don't want to upgrade and then get the thompson router and then get stuck on another contract for the year. I'd prefer the 100mbit plan anyway, the upstream is the same either way.


  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 6,525 Mod ✭✭✭✭sharkman


    Just a quick question , What is the advantage of this compared to me just connecting my Play Max Wireless Router and using it's wireless ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Wow I just found this thread - so it's now finally possible to use your own router with UPC :D

    I'm currently using the awful 2425 on the 25mbit plan, never upgraded because I wanted to reserve the right to cancel at any time :) But I need full bridge mode for a VPN router soon. I was thinking of moving to Vodafone ADSL but their upstream is only 1 mbit (obviously, as it's ADSL).

    Is there a way to make sure to get the 3925? Like getting the 150mbit plan or something, or is there a chance to get the Thompson even then? I don't want to upgrade and then get the thompson router and then get stuck on another contract for the year. I'd prefer the 100mbit plan anyway, the upstream is the same either way.
    Tell them your EPC2425 is practically non-functional in terms of the WiFi (say its range goes down to 1 bar and you're getting sloppy speeds of 4Mb or something if you move more than 2 meters away from the device), or make something else up, whatever it takes to get them to swap it out for you. You can bridge the EPC2425 at the cost of losing your phone service, unless they've upgraded the firmware to exclude the option? But the EPC3925 doesn't have any downsides that I've noticed and I've been bridged for nearly 3 weeks straight with a phone connected for over 2 of those weeks (prior to bridging I didn't even own a cordless phone).

    While the Thompson can apparently be bridged by UPC via TFTP, it also breaks the phone service (so I hear). I think the using EPC3925 with a decent cable router is your best bet. But if they're not buying your story and won't swap it out, then maybe an upgrade will be necessary, but only go down that route if all else fails (if you're not satisfied with the answer you get from the first agent, you should call back and try again).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    sharkman wrote: »
    Just a quick question , What is the advantage of this compared to me just connecting my Play Max Wireless Router and using it's wireless ?
    Connecting it and DMZ'ing the IP in the EPC3925? The overall noticeable advantage is practically non-existent for regular use. The advantage mainly is taking the EPC3925's router completely out of the equation, rather than just letting traffic through it with DMZ, and that you'll only have one NAT hop before entering or leaving your LAN. Again, the difference will not yield a major performance increase (at least for me, when I used to DMZ my router, my performance pretty much the same as it is now; no complaints - I just like the idea of being able to change my IP address at will, which only bridging the EPC will enable you to do and the nerd inside me strives for the best possible connection, even if the difference isn't entirely noticeable to the naked eye for regular Internet usage).


  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 6,525 Mod ✭✭✭✭sharkman


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    Connecting it and DMZ'ing the IP in the EPC3925? The overall noticeable advantage is practically non-existent for regular use. The advantage mainly is taking the EPC3925's router completely out of the equation, rather than just letting traffic through it with DMZ, and that you'll only have one NAT hop before entering or leaving your LAN. Again, the difference will not yield a major performance increase (at least for me, when I used to DMZ my router, my performance pretty much the same as it is now; no complaints - I just like the idea of being able to change my IP address at will, which only bridging the EPC will enable you to do and the nerd inside me strives for the best possible connection, even if the difference isn't entirely noticeable to the naked eye for regular Internet usage).

    Thanks for that !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    sharkman wrote: »
    Thanks for that !
    No problem. Just keep in mind that the EPC's router is a load of crap and its WiFi is sub-par. Even if you're using the DMZ method, it would be wise to disable the EPC's DHCP server and Wireless and have all your computers and devices go through your standalone router, if you're not already doing it like that.

    If you're looking for an opinion, however, I do recommend bridging the router over the DMZ faux bridge method, otherwise I wouldn't be doing it myself - at worst you'll gain no advantage. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    While the Thompson can apparently be bridged by UPC via TFTP, it also breaks the phone service (so I hear). I think the using EPC3925 with a decent cable router is your best bet. But if they're not buying your story and won't swap it out, then maybe an upgrade will be necessary, but only go down that route if all else fails (if you're not satisfied with the answer you get from the first agent, you should call back and try again).

    Thanks, I could try that.. But I understood the EPC2425's bridge mode isn't a full bridge mode anyway, only DMZ (which won't do for an L2TP vpn server because it uses GRE instead of TCP/UDP over IP). Besides that, the thing seems to spontaneously reset itself to factory defaults every 2 weeks or so, so I've given up on even changing my wifi password to an actually secure one every time it happens. They wouldn't replace a 2425 for a 3925 would they? I'd guess they have plenty of the 2425's lying around and it's fast enough for my plan.

    Your solution (and kudos for finding it!!) sounds pretty ideal for my situation. I would actually consider upgrading (I'd love to have the 100/10 plan anyway). But I'd have to be sure I'd get the right modem. I suppose I could ask their sales people but a colleage tried that once to get the old scientific atlanta and it took him about 20 calls to get what was promised to him.

    I was indeed going to use a very good cable router (of > 200 euro), I always use the Draytek Vigor ones because they work so well with the VPN features on my phone and laptop. And they offer a bandwidth counter over SNMP which I always use to keep my bandwidth usage in check.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Thanks, I could try that.. But I understood the EPC2425's bridge mode isn't a full bridge mode anyway, only DMZ (which won't do for an L2TP vpn server because it uses GRE instead of TCP/UDP over IP). Besides that, the thing seems to spontaneously reset itself to factory defaults every 2 weeks or so, so I've given up on even changing my wifi password to an actually secure one every time it happens. They wouldn't replace a 2425 for a 3925 would they? I'd guess they have plenty of the 2425's lying around and it's fast enough for my plan.
    Well there you go, you've genuinely got a faulty device! It's always worth a try, several posters in various UPC-related topics on the forum recently have had their faulty devices swapped out, even for reasons like poor WiFi speeds.
    Your solution (and kudos for finding it!!) sounds pretty ideal for my situation. I would actually consider upgrading (I'd love to have the 100/10 plan anyway). But I'd have to be sure I'd get the right modem. I suppose I could ask their sales people but a colleage tried that once to get the old scientific atlanta and it took him about 20 calls to get what was promised to him.
    The Thompson and EPC3925 devices are both EuroDOCSIS 3.0 devices. Your EPC2425 is a DOCSIS 2.0 device, which wouldn't be any good above 25Mb/s (hell, my parents' modem is the Scientific Atlanta, which is also DOCSIS 2.0 and they don't even get the full 25Mb/s that they're supposed to be getting).

    However, I thought the EPC2425 could actually be switched to true bridge mode? Again, maybe this was in the past prior to a firmware update? If so, it's possible that the EPC2425 could be tweaked in a similar manner to the EPC3925, only the web interfaces for both models are quite different and the HTML code/POST data could be different enough that even the code snippet I've provided would be completely irrelevant. If I had a EPC2425, I'd be able to look into it, but sadly I don't.
    I was indeed going to use a very good cable router (of > 200 euro), I always use the Draytek Vigor ones because they work so well with the VPN features on my phone and laptop. And they offer a bandwidth counter over SNMP which I always use to keep my bandwidth usage in check.
    Excellent choice and since you're going above and beyond regular Internet usage with using a VPN and SNMP, bridge mode will definitely work to your advantage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 932 ✭✭✭lotas


    thanks DECEiFER. I have found out it was my firewall at fault here... fixed it and all seems good now!

    Thanks again!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    lotas wrote: »
    thanks DECEiFER. I have found out it was my firewall at fault here... fixed it and all seems good now!

    Thanks again!
    Excellent. Glad it's all working for you again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    Well...

    I'm sorted! :D

    Yeah turns out I was just viewing the source code info with rather than editing it, tried it the correct way and got it to change no bother. I spent about 45 mins then trying to get into the router home page of my Belkin router and couldn't figure out why I couldn't, until I remembered I had already configured it for bridging a few days ago when I tried ED E's guide... So I just connected them up, restarted everything and boom! It's all working fine.

    Now I have gone from the absolutely hopeless range of the EPC3925 not getting access to anything more than 10 yards away to having my old Belkin router providing signal everywhere, even the garden.
    tumblr_m36mlktSrL1ru7ftzo1_400.gif

    Can't thank you enough DECEiFER for all the help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    Ok, another problem. Things aren't as rosey as when I went to bed last night. It seems adding a number of devices to the network has meant a my laptop, which I set the network up on, can't obtain an IP address. Neither could my PS3 or my Xbox when I tried them. At any given time I could need my laptop, the brother's laptop, my father's laptop and maybe a console or smart phone connected, has disabling the DCHP made this impossible? Is there any way to get them all online?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Whoa now, wait one second! You disabled DHCP in the EPC3925, right? You don't disable DHCP in the router you're bridging with the EPC3925. You will definitely need it for connecting devices up, unless you manually configure a static IP for each device inside its OS! So you've bridged the EPC3925 with another router, making the EPC3925 nothing more than a modem. Your router will need to take over all routing that the EPC3925 did in the past from DHCP to all your port forwards (if any) / UPnP, etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    Whoa now, wait one second! You disabled DHCP in the EPC3925, right? You don't disable DHCP in the router you're bridging with the EPC3925. You will definitely need it for connecting devices up, unless you manually configure a static IP for each device inside its OS! So you've bridged the EPC3925 with another router, making the EPC3925 nothing more than a modem. Your router will need to take over all routing that the EPC3925 did in the past from DHCP to all your port forwards (if any) / UPnP, etc.

    I did disable DHCP in my Belkin as I'm pretty sure that's the only way I can use it as an access point, as I was following these instructions:

    http://www.belkin.com/us/support-article?rnId=2780

    As apparently I have an older router (I don't have the "Use as access point" option) I have to turn DHCP off.

    What are my options then? I tried to get back to the router homepage and enable DCHP, but I can't access the belkin router homepage when it is connected to the EPC3925, the 192.168.2.1 address just doesn't work. The bridged 3925 homepage at 192.168.100.1 is no use to me, is it?

    My laptop, my brother's laptop and my Xbox have all connected without problems now, but my father's laptop and the PS3 can't connect due to IP address issues.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Yeah, not a good idea. What you've done is gotten rid of your router, the EPC3925 is no longer a router and neither is your Belkin. I think getting a new device is your best bet. All you've done is set the Belkin to act as an AP to another router, but in your case, there is no other router with DHCP switched on, so the AP feature is just not suitable for the purpose you need it for.

    In the "Internet WAN" > "Connection Type" menu, what's located there exactly?

    EDIT: What IPs are your computers getting, the ones that are connected fine? 192.168.100.1 is useless at this point, you can't fix anything related to your problem in there. Please answer my question about the "Connection Type" by removing the EPC3925 from the equation temporarily, since it's the only way you can access the Belkin's web interface.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    DECEiFER wrote: »
    Yeah, not a good idea. What you've done is gotten rid of your router, the EPC3925 is no longer a router and neither is your Belkin. I think getting a new device is your best bet. All you've done is set the Belkin to act as an AP to another router, but in your case, there is no other router with DHCP switched on, so the AP feature is just not suitable for the purpose you need it for.

    In the "Internet WAN" > "Connection Type" menu, what's located there exactly?

    EDIT: What IPs are your computers getting, the ones that are connected fine? 192.168.100.1 is useless at this point, you can't fix anything related to your problem in there. Please answer my question about the "Connection Type" by removing the EPC3925 from the equation temporarily, since it's the only way you can access the Belkin's web interface.

    The computers that are connected are fine. They are getting IP's like 79.97.229.92 (thats the Xbox's one). My father's laptop for example can find the network and join, but I get that little yellow warning triangle over the connection signal.

    I'll try find the Internet WAN Connection Type now but I'm having a horrible time trying to get into the Belkin router homepage.

    EDIT: As of now, my all 3 laptops we need to connect are connected. What's going on? Is this totally random? It might be that there is a limited amount of devices allowed on at one time and if one joins another gets kicked off, is there any way to avoid this? Can I set up static IP's to keep them all on?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    There you go, you've reached the UPC IP limit per client connected. Since your Belkin router is merely an AP now, you'll get a maximum of 3 clients (this was discussed earlier in this thread, apparently UPC has a 3 client limit) with different public IPs from UPC. You are no longer on a NAT, which is why you won't be able to connect any further devices as things stand. That's the point I was trying to make earlier, you'll need to switch the Belkin back into a router and enable DHCP at the very least. However, the Belkin may not be suitable for bridging with a DOCSIS connection. The problem is, it's an ADSL router with an integrated ADSL modem. While some ADSL routers can double up as standalone cable routers, your device doesn't seem to be one of those devices, but I could be wrong!

    After you've switched the AP mode off and DHCP back on, hit up the "Internet WAN" > "Connection Type" menu. Then select "Dynamic/Fixed IP (1483 Bridged)" as your connection type and hit Next. Then make sure the "IP assigned by ISP" is set to "Yes" and apply the changes. If that doesn't get the public IP from the EPC3925, then you're out of luck as far as the Belkin is concerned.

    I've been reading the manual for your router and I've done my best as far as trying to figure out what the device is capable of:
    http://cache-www.belkin.com/support/dl/pm01527ea_f5d8636-4_uk.pdf (Pages 31 and 33)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    Ok, I won't get a chance to give that a try until later tonight, but when I do I'l report back. Once again, thanks so much for your help, your a gent.

    Any chance you know the UPC ISP details for when I select "Dynamic/Fixed IP (1483 Bridged)"? I dont know UPC's VPI/VCI or Encapsulation.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Mikeyt086 wrote: »
    Ok, I won't get a chance to give that a try until later tonight, but when I do I'l report back. Once again, thanks so much for your help, your a gent.
    Okay, but just remember, I'm not very optimistic about this working. I suspect that it will find Jack Sh1t and you'll have to go back to using the EPC3925 as a router (assuming you'll want all your devices to connect again) until you can purchase a standalone cable router built for the purpose. They come in all shapes and sizes and different price-points, just like ADSL routers do.

    If things don't work out with the Belkin and you're prepared to purchase a cable router, tell me your budget and I'll give you as much help as I can.
    Mikeyt086 wrote: »
    Any chance you know the UPC ISP details for when I select "Dynamic/Fixed IP (1483 Bridged)"? I dont know UPC's VPI/VCI or Encapsulation.
    That's one of the reasons why I think your Belkin isn't suited for the job. Those settings are not for a DOCSIS connection, only for DSL.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭Mikeyt086


    Ugh, not looking good then.

    I'm willing to spend in the region of €75 on a cable router, if possible. Any suggestions are welcome.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Sure. I'll hold off on the cable router "window shopping" until (if) the Belkin is verified as being unsuitable, when you get back to me later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,487 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    If your only problem with the Cisco is the wireless range and you're happy with it's routing capabilities then there's nothing stopping you from switching it back to being a router, turn off the wireless on it, and then use the Belkin as a glorified wireless AP. You'll have to turn off the DHCP server on the Belkin and attach it to the Cisco via ethernet ports on each device. Wireless clients will then get their IP addresses from the Cisco.

    On the other hand, if you're having problems with the Cisco's routing functionality for whatever reason then you've no choice but to bridge the Cisco as you're doing now and shell out for a proper 'cable' router I'm afraid. You can only go so far recycling old equipment I'm afraid :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,234 ✭✭✭DECEiFER


    Alun's correct, assuming you're only pissed about the wireless coverage of the EPC and everything else is good in your book, take his advice and save a few bucks for now. Otherwise, the consensus seems to be to get a new cable router.


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