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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    meridian74 wrote: »
    Hi
    I am planning on installing a wood burning stove into a bungalow that should heat an open plan sitting room, dining room and kitchen area an no back boiler. I am looking at the more contemporary designs and have come across the Heritage Belvedere. 15KW output and sold from Right Price Tiles. It seems the most reasonably prices ca€1650-€1700 plus flue etc.
    Does anybody have any experience with these stoves? Any alternative recommendations? I have seen Dovre Astroline and Nordpeis Duo 1 as well but more expensive.

    No experience of them but look nice alright and should throw out plenty of heat with that free standing type design, though probably a source of danger too in terms of kids/people stumbling against it. Do keep in mind that wood on it's own will not burn as hot as a mix of coal & wood. You'll go through a fair bit of firewood if the firebox is large.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 bloob


    Hello,

    New to Boards, so hopefully I do this right!

    We're having a gas fire decommisioned and removed and a wood burning stove installed. I had my heart set on having the fireplace dug out and a chamber created for a freestanding stove, so that part of the flue is visible at the top. I've had two quotes so far (both came and visited the house).

    One (very long established company) said that the chimney breast (47 inches) was too narrow to excavate and create a chamber wide enough. That there needed to be 8" on each side of the breast remaining plus 6" on each side of the stove, leaving only 19" for the stove, and since we need at least an 8KW for the room, that we don't have enough room for it. So we'd need to get an insert or cassette stove instead.

    The second (established for a shorter period of time but well known) company said they could do the chamber and freestanding no problem.

    I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas why we would get such differing opinions from two well known installers?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Why you come on to a forum looking for more opinions is questionable?
    You have got two already.

    So the only way to actually get an answer is ask why one won't do as you hoped?

    Fist one is correct and to prove have a look at building regs.

    It states you need 200mm each side as pillars minimum and of course you need the 150mm each side of stove.
    So it not hard worked out .
    Second company just want the work or have not done any training or even read the building regulations.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭pippip


    rpmcs wrote: »
    Why you come on to a forum looking for more opinions is questionable?
    You have got two already.

    So the only way to actually get an answer is ask why one won't do as you hoped?

    Fist one is correct and to prove have a look at building regs.

    It states you need 200mm each side as pillars minimum and of course you need the 150mm each side of stove.
    So it not hard worked out .
    Second company just want the work or have not done any training or even read the building regulations.

    They came on here looking for help clarifying which is correct. To which you answered....thanks.
    No need for the attitude and accusations towards them, especially to new members.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 bloob


    Thanks for your reply rpcms,

    Apologies if my question offended, I was confused as to why I might get two very different opinions from experts, and wondered if there was something I was missing.

    But you did actually answer my question quite clearly in the end, so I appreciate that.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    No need to be sorry. Maybe I should be apologising.
    It's just if you get info from two companys and they conflict well then you should do research to verify if this is just sales crap or if it is good workman's ship or proper advice to stand over home insurance.


    Yes as I said it is in building regulations...

    But it's again second/third hand info...

    If you believe every thing that is said without doing some research yourself,
    well I'd be afraid you will be leaving yourself open to fraud or some poor works and possibly, if you had an issue down the road that you find your home insurance is invalid.

    Some things are regarded as good practice.
    But others are in black and white on regulations.
    So what annoyed me in first post was....

    As first company advised you that they would not leave less than 8 inches on either side.
    Ok so you thought why is this?

    And if you asked and they told you building regs are clear on this, would your next option not be to ask them to send you link or point you to where this is stated.

    Then you would not be relying on "rpmcs from boards.ie told me"

    And then for you it would be an easy decision.

    I could be some idiot that told you "nah it fine, sure all I have is 4 inches on mine for the last twenty years and not a bother"


    But in any case if I came across as I was having a go at you it's not what I was doing. But apologies if I offended.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 bloob


    Hi,

    We're looking at two options for a cassette stove: HeatDesign Vitae 9kw versus Stovax Riva 55 8kw.

    Does anyone have any experience of either or both of these?

    We're doing our own research also, through a few contacts, but it would be great if anyone here had any thoughts or opinions.

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    Hi I have a heat design insert stove so not exactly what you are looking for. I did have some problems getting decent heat from it in the beginning but I have to say Heat Designs customer service was excellent. The guy rang everyday going through different fuel mixes and settings until I got it working efficiently and was on the verge of coming out to inspect it free of charge. So from a service side I would recommend and they seem to stand over their products once you have used an installer from their list.


  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Heat design are not s bad company.
    But stovax would be miles above


  • Registered Users Posts: 181 ✭✭feckthisgenie


    I am building a single story extension to the back of my 2 story terrace house. I am thinking of putting in a stove and connecting to my central heating system.
    My question is: does the chimney flue have to be higher then the two story part of the house or only a meter heighter then the highest part of the single story extension.
    The stove chinmey flue will be approximately 2.8 meters away from the neighbours boundary. Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    I am building a single story extension to the back of my 2 story terrace house. I am thinking of putting in a stove and connecting to my central heating system.
    My question is: does the chimney flue have to be higher then the two story part of the house or only a meter heighter then the highest part of the single story extension.
    The stove chinmey flue will be approximately 2.8 meters away from the neighbours boundary. Thanks

    The flue should be a minimum of 5.5mtrs high
    Details of requirements are in part j of the building regs available online


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,512 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Hi, does anyone have any reviews of the boru 4kw dry stove? I got a quote ranging from 1.7k to 2k to have this installed in an old house. Chimney lined included etc. Is this a good price? The open fire last winter didn't give off too much heat and I'm looking for a stove for a small fireplace in a 2 bed terrace that would hopefully heat downstairs. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 181 ✭✭feckthisgenie


    Hi
    I am doing an extension in a 3 bed semi detached and am putting in a stove with a back boiler. I am looking at getting the job priced and wondering what kind of money I'm looking at. I have gas so I will probably need a new boiler and heat exchanger etc. I am thinking that the job won't be that big as there will only be digging in the back bedroom to get to the hotpress the rest should be mimimal fuss as the extension is to be built so access to wall etc will be easy and part of the existing roof will be exposed leaving access to the back bedroom ok.
    So for the pipes, boiler, heat exchanger, labour what kind of money would I be looking at (minus the stove/flues). I will need electrican for the wiring bit not including that. Any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭Joe1919


    jaffa20 wrote: »
    Hi, does anyone have any reviews of the boru 4kw dry stove? I got a quote ranging from 1.7k to 2k to have this installed in an old house. Chimney lined included etc. Is this a good price? The open fire last winter didn't give off too much heat and I'm looking for a stove for a small fireplace in a 2 bed terrace that would hopefully heat downstairs. Thanks

    I live in an old uninsulated stone wall house and have fitted a 7 kw dry stove which works well. I would be a little worried that the 4kw stove would not be big enough, especially in winter. It takes a nice bit of heat to get the stone walls warmed up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,512 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Joe1919 wrote: »
    I live in an old uninsulated stone wall house and have fitted a 7 kw dry stove which works well. I would be a little worried that the 4kw stove would not be big enough, especially in winter. It takes a nice bit of heat to get the stone walls warmed up.

    Thanks for the advice. It is a small terraced house though so my neighbours act as some insulation but i guess the higher the kw might be best if spending so much money on lining chimney :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭funnyname


    I'm hoping this is the right place to post this question. Only noticed the gap about two nights ago in the join of the stove pipes attached. Moved into the house 2 years ago and it would be in regular use. Can't stink of anything that would have caused that join to suddenly weaken, last fire was about 3 weeks ago.

    There's a carbon monoxide detector in the sitting room but it has never gone off but is working. Should I get the pipe join fixed asap before lighting another fire or is it enough to have a working detector. Stove is where there used to be an open fire so pipe goes up to the chimney, think it's pretty well sealed.


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    393195.jpg




    393194.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,222 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Not the best pictures to get the location context but IMO, the streaking in pic 3 points to a serious problem further up, its far from well sealed but the natural draught is keeping the CO out of the room.

    Can you get a shot of the flue up the chimney and a shot of the stove in the ope

    Is there a "Chinese hat" on the flue outside to stop rain coming down.

    The other source of water down the flue is a cracked capping stone on the chimney so the rain pours down the outside of the flue

    First time I ever saw pop rivets in a flue stack

    Looks to me you have an expansion problem and the flue has buckled as in pic 2, or is that an illusion.

    It needs a good fix.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭funnyname


    Yeah there's a Chinese hat on the flue coming out of the chimney, I'll take a few more pictures and post them when I have a chance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,222 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    funnyname wrote: »
    Yeah there's a Chinese hat on the flue coming out of the chimney, I'll take a few more pictures and post them when I have a chance.

    Thanks, what do you burn normally in it?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭funnyname


    Thanks, what do you burn normally in it?

    Smokeless coal ovoids, polish coal, briquettes and hard wood.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭funnyname


    A couple more

    393227.jpg


    393226.jpg


    funnyname wrote: »
    Smokeless coal ovoids, polish coal, briquettes and hard wood.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,222 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    funnyname wrote: »
    Smokeless coal ovoids, polish coal, briquettes and hard wood.

    Thanks, judging by the size of that monster, all together!!

    I am no expert but that needs a serious look as what seems to have happened/is happening is that the metal flue is slipping down the chimney and putting, as we say where I come from, fierce pressure, on the T piece coming out of the stove.

    My advice is not to use stove till you get it fixed because if you are in full flight with stove and it falls off............

    In addition what looks like the pressure relief valve looks pretty dangerous as if it blows steam and scalding water may kill someone nearby

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    are there such thing as stoves that retain heat long after fire has gone, like heat storage, would love to know


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    goat2 wrote: »
    are there such thing as stoves that retain heat long after fire has gone, like heat storage, would love to know

    Old stone fireplace and walls do this in our place. Take a while to warm up after being away for more than a couple of nights but normally they take in heat and give it back slowly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭TTTT


    goat2 wrote: »
    are there such thing as stoves that retain heat long after fire has gone, like heat storage, would love to know

    Masonry Stoves

    https://www.google.ie/search?q=masonry+stoves&client=safari&hl=en-ie&prmd=imsvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO5ai_jabOAhUMC8AKHVecBOQQ_AUIBygB&biw=768&bih=927


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭Joe1919


    Also 'soapstone stoves' are available.


  • Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭cowlick


    Looking to fit a non boiler sitting room stove, have been looking online but I could not find any answer, which is better a stanley oil stove (oisin or Tara) or a nestor martin harmony 5 oil stove? Reason for fitting is multi fuel inset stove I currently have is 4kw and there is very poor heat from it and I want an ashes free easy start up solution. It's down to this or an electric stove. Opinions appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭mel o


    We're putting a boiler stove into our new build and hope to heat the room and 9 rads with it. We're thinking of the Stratford EB20 or the Blacksmith Farrier and are open to any other suggestions. The plumber said we need 20kw. Has anyone an opinion on either stove? I read good and bad reviews of both which makes it hard to decide.

    Also, I was reading about having an external source of air for the stove - what does this mean and is it something we should be planning?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    mel o wrote: »
    Also, I was reading about having an external source of air for the stove - what does this mean and is it something we should be planning?

    No idea about the stoves but the idea of external air source is that the fire & flue draws in unheated air from outside the house as opposed to sucking warmed air out of the living areas. Provided by ducting etc. and definitely easier to install in a new build! But likely needs to be thought of at foundation and sub floor level etc.

    Worth checking and thinking about ventilation of air in house as well I think. 'Traditional thinking' as far as I know is that drawing the stove (fire) air from within the house, will suck in fresh air from outside and promote an exchange of air. Modern approach is more towards sealing the building as much as possible and having a mechanical ventilation and heat recovery system.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭mel o


    Thanks Barry. We won't have a heat recovery system so it may not be suitable then? The builder put two vents in the room, I was hoping to close one and have an external air supply in the hope of increased efficiency and a warmer house.


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