STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Dtp1979

Cathellen wrote: »

I can't get at the pipe work under the cylinder without taking out the cylinder and taking up the floor boards.
I'm sending you another of pipework at bottom ...maybe no use??

Ok thanks. There must be a pump somewhere for the stove? Can you show that and the pipework around it?

Cathellen

won't be able to get it 'til tomorrow. Will post as soon as I can
Thanks

Cathellen

Hello again. Attaching some pics of pipework from stove to pump. The stove is on left side. The pipes to hotpress on right.
Thanks for your interest.

Dtp1979

Cathellen wrote: »

Hello again. Attaching some pics of pipework from stove to pump. The stove is on left side. The pipes to hotpress on right.
Thanks for your interest.

Still a bit hard to see what's goin on. Did you feel the pipe at the oil boiler yet after the stove was lighting?
How many pipes are connected to the back of the stove?

husq

thinking of a boru 30kw boiler stove, anybody know anything about them

Ryanciaran

Hi

Can any1 recommend a double sided inset stove for to suit
room on one side 5x3 meters and other room is 9x3.5 meters.

Also do you have to install surrounds like granite to protect the plaster from cracking. Would love a plaster finish around the stove face but not sure if its possible.

Can any1 offer advice

Cathellen

From what I can see there are two pipes to/from the stove...one top left ,the other bottom right. These travel horizontally for about 2m. Looking at the pump there is a pipe connected to the top and one to the bottom. These are the only direct connections to it that I can see. I cant see if they come from the stove.The thermostat is on neither of these.
I lit the stove.....the rads were slightly warm but no heat in oil boiler or pipe to it.

Dtp1979

Cathellen wrote: »

From what I can see there are two pipes to/from the stove...one top left ,the other bottom right. These travel horizontally for about 2m. Looking at the pump there is a pipe connected to the top and one to the bottom. These are the only direct connections to it that I can see. I cant see if they come from the stove.The thermostat is on neither of these.
I lit the stove.....the rads were slightly warm but no heat in oil boiler or pipe to it.

From looking at the pics again, the return is piped incorrectly.

The Last Beep

Guessing this is probably the best place for my query.

I'm looking at getting a stove for the living room in a house we are just moving into. The room is approx. 4.5m x 3.5m with an equally sized dining room connected to it, the two rooms are separated by double sliding doors but I imagine we'll keep them open most of the time. Both rooms currently have open fireplaces in them.

For the living room stove I like the idea of a freestanding stove set into an opened out fireplace, there would probably be a bit of work in opening out the fireplace to do this though. I would probably be more simple (and cheaper) to get an insert stove fitted but I'm not as keen on the look of this.

My question is, what are the positives and negatives I should be considering between free standing and insert stoves? How much would we be looking at to open up the fireplace? If we have a sofa which would have one end within 3-4 feet of the stove, does that make a difference?

BarneyMc

Has anyone any experience with Spartherm or Hwam stoves? I'm looking for a standalone wood burning stove for my new build and am looking at:

Spartherm Ambient A1
Hwam 3640

Both are coming in at the same price and any help would be great. Thanks.

Southern Comfort

We're gonna put a stove into a holiday home. The kitchen/living/dining room is 28 ft x 14 ft approx. The ceiling is 8 ft. The two 14 ft walls are outer walls. One has a 4 x 3 window and kitchen units. The other has a standard sized double glazed sliding door with a heavy curtain. Cavity walls with some aeroboard insulation.

I looked at Stanley stoves today. The lady in the shop told me that the Oisin would be a sufficiently powerful stove for the room. It's 6.4 kW. However, it seems like a very small stove and I'm wondering if it's big or strong enough.

Also, am I correct in thinking it doesn't have an air wash system?

bigron2109

Hi , I'm moving into my new house tomorrow and it has a 30km Green Duel fuel stove with a back boiler in the house .

Have never used a stove before and it's huge to look at.

Just wondering what is the best type of fuel to burn in it and does anyone have any tips etc for a total newbie when it comes to stoves . Cheers

pippip

bigron2109 wrote: »

Hi , I'm moving into my new house tomorrow and it has a 30km Green Duel fuel stove with a back boiler in the house .

Have never used a stove before and it's huge to look at.

Just wondering what is the best type of fuel to burn in it and does anyone have any tips etc for a total newbie when it comes to stoves . Cheers

First congrats on the new house.

If it has a back boiler you may want to have someone who already has one there. Would be dangerous to light the stove and find something in the system isn't working (pump etc.)

Would you be in a position to talk to the old owners over the phone to ask them about the system, they would be the best to explain anything quirky with the system.

Stove Coal and hardwood are best for burning and getting the most heat.

ovalfan1

i just want to leave a comment on about a stove i bought over 3 years ago, i feel i owe it to boards as i got a lot of good advice here when i was purchasing.
i installed a chieftan stove , my house is a 2 storey 1759sqft, i had no back boiler and my tank was upstairs so we had a bit of work to do, i got a good plumber who installed the system within 2 days which included the wall being chased for the pipes and plastered again, floor boards lifted upstairs and everything left the way it was found, the whole job cost €3000 which includes the stove .
iv not put oil in the tank since i installed the stove and we have never been warmer.
i burn mainly coal and slack, anyone who has any questions id be glad to answer .

bigron2109

Hi lads . I just moved into a brand new house with a Green 30kw stove with a back boiler in it. It's a brand new stove. The builder had a couple of little fires in it for me while doing work on the house to have it ready.

A couple of questions as I have never used a stove before and I've read the instruction Manuel but still don't understand a few things .

I've a primary and secondary controls. The primary ones are little knobs at the bottom of the stove and the secondary ones are the same except at the top of the stove.

Do I leave these open if I want to get hot water to the rads ? I lit it the other night and got hot water no problem and the radiators heated up . But I don't know what I should be doing with the controls.

Any advice or help would be welcome as I honestly don't have a clue please.

Southern Comfort

I've had a few suggestions about the strength of the solid fuel stove I need for a holiday home. One large kitchen/dining/living room.

Approx 30 ft long by 15 ft wide. 8 ft ceiling.

Has some aeroboard insulation in the wall cavity. Bedrooms overhead. One standard double glazed sliding door and one 2 metre squared double glazed window.

A few stores suggested about 7 kW. Would that be enough?

Joe1919

bigron2109 wrote: »

Hi lads . I just moved into a brand new house with a Green 30kw stove with a back boiler in it. It's a brand new stove. The builder had a couple of little fires in it for me while doing work on the house to have it ready.

A couple of questions as I have never used a stove before and I've read the instruction Manuel but still don't understand a few things .

I've a primary and secondary controls. The primary ones are little knobs at the bottom of the stove and the secondary ones are the same except at the top of the stove.

Do I leave these open if I want to get hot water to the rads ? I lit it the other night and got hot water no problem and the radiators heated up . But I don't know what I should be doing with the controls.

Any advice or help would be welcome as I honestly don't have a clue please.

They are air control. Generally speaking, when they are open, there is more air going to the fire and the burn rate increases. Leave open when lighting the fire. If things get too hot, close them off.

When burning certain fuels such as timber, peat briquettes, polish coal (if allowed) and some other stove coals, it is better to leave the top vent open as these fuels are gassy (and smokey) and emit gas that needs to be burnt higher up in stove (secondary combustion). The higher vent also helps to keep glass clean.

Some very clean (smokeless) stove fuels work better the other way around with plenty of air under the fire and the top vent closed off. I think your stove has a thermostat so (depending on its setting) it may be ok to close off all vents in this case and let the thermostat do all the work.

So it depends on the fuel and also on the stage of combustion. There is an art and knack to solid fuel and in getting familiar with your set up.

Normally the radiators heat up after a while when things warm up but there may be some type of switch or thermostat (on the pipe) that controls this or turns on a circulation pump etc. A 30 kw stove will need a lot of fuel to heat the water.

bigron2109

Thanks very much for the advice.

We had the plumber around today and he turned down the pump so when it hits 50 the pump kicks in. It was at 60.

Also some of the radiators needed balancing so he done that. So things looking a lot better now.

mrtom

I had a stove installed recently and the chimney was lined aand fitted with a downdraught cowl. It smokes when I open the door to refuel. I had it checked by an engineer and the draught was tested. It gave a reading of 20 Pascals which I understand is good. The stove manufactures recommend between 12 and 25 Pascals. Has anyone here had a similar experience ? Need advice.

Joe1919

mrtom wrote: »

I had a stove installed recently and the chimney was lined aand fitted with a downdraught cowl. It smokes when I open the door to refuel. I had it checked by an engineer and the draught was tested. It gave a reading of 20 Pascals which I understand is good. The stove manufactures recommend between 12 and 25 Pascals. Has anyone here had a similar experience ? Need advice.

Try opening the stove vents before refueling.
Open the door initially by only about half an inch and then after a few seconds continue to open slowly. The idea is to get a bit of a draft going in the stove and air moving up chimney before you fully open the door.

Make sure baffle plate is in right position.

mrtom

Joe1919 wrote: »

Try opening the stove vents before refueling.
Open the door initially by only about half an inch and then after a few seconds continue to open slowly. The idea is to get a bit of a draft going in the stove and air moving up chimney before you fully open the door.

Make sure baffle plate is in right position.

At first I thought baffle, then checked assembly against the diagram in the manual, nope.
I'v tried that with the vents & door opening slowly, even opening windows as well to make sure the room ventilation is ok. Still smokes even when I hear air rushing in from the open bottom vent. Its a Fireline FX5W, tried goggling to see if it was an issue with these stoves but didn't find anything. Very odd.

Joe1919

mrtom wrote: »

At first I thought baffle, then checked assembly against the diagram in the manual, nope.
I'v tried that with the vents & door opening slowly, even opening windows as well to make sure the room ventilation is ok. Still smokes even when I hear air rushing in from the open bottom vent. Its a Fireline FX5W, tried goggling to see if it was an issue with these stoves but didn't find anything. Very odd.

I note your stove has a folded type baffle with a horizontal section. I seen a similar problem with a friends 7 kw Chinese cast iron stove with a similar type baffle arrangement. The stove tended to smoke slightly when adding peat briquettes. But it was very bad when coal was added as the loose coal dust (slack) use to flare up immediately when added to fire and smoke and dust use to bellow out into room.
Anyhow, I note that this problem does not seem to occur on stoves that I am familiar with where the baffle plate is continually at an angle (about 45) even though many of these stove flues are not lined and just feed into ordinary clay chimneys.
So we suspected that the horizontal part of the baffle was directing the smoke forward and outwards into the room. We removed the baffle and replaced it with a square flat piece of 3mm steel plate that was big enough to sit on back of fire plate/brick and reach the retaining lugs at front. This new 'baffle' was now running at 45 degrees approx and had no horizontal bit.
The result was that the stove did not smoke. However, this new baffle is lower and nearer fire and it was noted that the glass and front door gets a lot hotter, so I cannot give a general recommendation for this action. However, in this case the 7kw stove is large compared to room size (13 X 13 feet) and this arrangement seems OK so far, as the stove does not need to be over fueled or driven hard so to speak.

mrtom

Joe1919 wrote: »

I note your stove has a folded type baffle with a horizontal section. I seen a similar problem with a friends 7 kw Chinese cast iron stove with a similar type baffle arrangement. The stove tended to smoke slightly when adding peat briquettes. But it was very bad when coal was added as the loose coal dust (slack) use to flare up immediately when added to fire and smoke and dust use to bellow out into room.
Anyhow, I note that this problem does not seem to occur on stoves that I am familiar with where the baffle plate is continually at an angle (about 45) even though many of these stove flues are not lined and just feed into ordinary clay chimneys.
So we suspected that the horizontal part of the baffle was directing the smoke forward and outwards into the room. We removed the baffle and replaced it with a square flat piece of 3mm steel plate that was big enough to sit on back of fire plate/brick and reach the retaining lugs at front. This new 'baffle' was now running at 45 degrees approx and had no horizontal bit.
The result was that the stove did not smoke. However, this new baffle is lower and nearer fire and it was noted that the glass and front door gets a lot hotter, so I cannot give a general recommendation for this action. However, in this case the 7kw stove is large compared to room size (13 X 13 feet) and this arrangement seems OK so far, as the stove does not need to be over fueled or driven hard so to speak.

Thanks for your informed reply. Your observation makes total sense. The attch image illustrates your point, {I have a rear flue outlet}. I did consider it a design issue but couldn't find supporting evidence. Though I'm now at the point of telling the supplier / installer its not fit for purpose.

Joe1919

mrtom wrote: »

Thanks for your informed reply. Your observation makes total sense. The attch image illustrates your point, {I have a rear flue outlet}. I did consider it a design issue but couldn't find supporting evidence. Though I'm now at the point of telling the supplier / installer its not fit for purpose.

Just one further point. I note from the diagram that your stove could be a high efficiency design type (tertiary air supply etc.) and to some extent, the baffle design is about slowing down fuel gasses and increasing efficiency. So it may be necessary to use a good quality smokeless fuel. For example, I bought a few bags of 'ecobrite' nuggets lately and noticed that stove behaves differently from other smokier and lively fuels that I used. The nuggets burn very clean and hot with a short red flame and there is no trace of smoke.
What I am thinking here is that a high efficiency 80%+ stove is probably more choosy about its fuel than some of the lower efficiency 70% stove.

mrtom

Joe1919 wrote: »

Just one further point. I note from the diagram that your stove could be a high efficiency design type (tertiary air supply etc.) and to some extent, the baffle design is about slowing down fuel gasses and increasing efficiency. So it may be necessary to use a good quality smokeless fuel. For example, I bought a few bags of 'ecobrite' nuggets lately and noticed that stove behaves differently from other smokier and lively fuels that I used. The nuggets burn very clean and hot with a short red flame and there is no trace of smoke.
What I am thinking here is that a high efficiency 80%+ stove is probably more choosy about its fuel than some of the lower efficiency 70% stove.

Excellent detail again Joe. So I imagine smokeless ovoids would work. however the gases would flow into the room ?

rpmcs

Hi.
When you say you have a rear exit flue. How far does the flue run before it turns up the flue/ turns vertical ?

mrtom

rpmcs wrote: »

Hi.
When you say you have a rear exit flue. How far does the flue run before it turns up the flue/ turns vertical ?

About 6". (5" 90 degree bend with door)

Joe1919

mrtom wrote: »

Excellent detail again Joe. So I imagine smokeless ovoids would work. however the gases would flow into the room ?

WARNING – FUME EMISSION
Properly installed and operated, this appliance will not emit fumes. Occasional fumes from de-ashing and refuelling may occur which is not normally of serious concern. However, persistent fume emission is potentially dangerous and must not be tolerated.

I think your stove handbook gives a warning like above and I have seen similar notices with other stove handbooks/instructions i.e. A small level of smoking seems to be acceptable during re-loading by the manufacturers own standards. But although 'occasional fumes' may be allowed, I am not sure at what level (or quantity) of fumes that this is.
I think it is most desirable if this level of smoking/fumes (during refueling) can be reduced to a minimum or better still to zero. I would definitely avoid coal with dusty slack present in your case. (I knew one person who kept her coal outside in the open rain (out of the sacks) and swore it was cleaner as the rain washed away the dusty slack. She had an old stanley 8 cooker stove that was top loading)

Digital Society

I have an open fire and now ive been given a Stanley Oisin that i want to fit in there.

The Fireback seems tight enough. Can i get a smaller flu pipe to squeeze through?

Or can i get a short flexible pipe that will squeeze through and bend up?

Thanks

Robbie.G

Digital Society wrote: »

I have an open fire and now ive been given a Stanley Oisin that i want to fit in there.

The Fireback seems tight enough. Can i get a smaller flu pipe to squeeze through?

Or can i get a short flexible pipe that will squeeze through and bend up?

Thanks

You need to remove the fire back to fit the stove and flue.
A flue must not be reduced in size from original