STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Paremon

Looking to get either of these stoves;
Heritage Pollmore 7KW €650, no efficiency rating in their brochures, 5yr warranty
or
Henley Apollo 7KW €780, 79% efficiency per the Henley brochure, 5yr warranty

€130 difference in price.
Anybody know the efficiency rating of the Heritage model above?

Is there any advantage in paying the higher price other than the brand name? E.g. build quality, efficiency, parts availability etc?

cranefly

Agreed on oil prices for the foreseeable future, but to have the option to burn a bag of sticks from a forest or wherever if their is a big increase, which you can never rule out, does mean you are not dependent on one source of heating. i get my coal from the north. 25 bags on a pallet of smokeless coal, save about 6 euro a bag compared to cosyglo gems bought down here, I heard that their will be a nationwide ban on smokey coal here in the next year or two, and their will be a factory in foynes making smokeless coal for the whole country. Which sounds good on the face of it, but like everything else i bet their prices will be too high, at least with a stove you are getting the best heat from that coal, and not having all the heat go up the chimney like an open fire.

MrDiyFan

Hi .I'm replacing some fire rope on an Oisin Stove door

It seems to have been held with (high temp) silicone previously? will this do ?

thanks

@BarryD

If people blocked up their chimneys they would save a massive amount of heat, or at least do it in a way they can use it when they need it.

@BarryD.

Burning oil is far cleaner in a modern efficient boiler than using any solid fuel.

Anyway, the point I make is that solid fuel is a good bit more expensive, I worked it out, burning it because someone likes the look of it is another matter. When the ban on smokey coal comes into effect then I bet suppliers and manufacturers of this smokeless coal will increase prices making it more expensive again.

My Aunt burns smokeless in her stove and finds it far better than the likes of that Polish Dirt and equivalent, so smokeless seems to be better quality.

I still doubt the cleanliness of smokeless fuels, it's not just what you don't see coming out of the chimney that causes air pollution and damage to health but at least it should make the air cleaner, as I said the clouds of smoke here in winter is a downright disgrace in 2016 !

youngblood

Any opinions on multi fuel kits that can be put into wood burning stoves?
Do they feck up the stove long term?

elastico

Deleted User wrote: »

Burning oil is far cleaner in a modern efficient boiler than using any solid fuel.

That depends though.

If its a Sunday afternoon (or whenever) and you want to just heat the living room to watch TV then a stove would be more economical than turning on the oil, which even if you turn off all the rads. bar the living room will still be heating all the pipes in the background.

Even at that a lot of people are content most evenings to have a cosy living room heated via a stove / fireplace with much lower heat levels in the rest of the house, powered by oil.

A modern Oil burner is 90 % efficient, with solid fuel most of that goes up the chimney and it's far from cheap.

You can buy oil stoves too and they'd heat far quicker.

This is a bit like me telling people how cheap it is to run an EV, they think diesel prices today are cheap ? unreal but I bet if they got a monthly bill for diesel or yearly then they'd realise how expensive it actually is, it's easy to pay per week and not see as much going up the chimney.

Hopefully in the not too distant future there'll be a grant for solar PV and wind turbines and a feed in tariff, sell all the excess to the grid in summer and buy back in winter to run storage heaters or a heat pump and house electricity, heat pumps are becoming a lot cheaper and more efficient, even air to water heat pumps are a lot more efficient today they can heat the water to 60 degrees for the better ones and can be piped almost in line with existing oil boilers for backup just in case.

Shefwedfan

I posted this before but was looking for model. I have a large stove in kitchen which heats the rads as well. Have fired it up and just wondering should I be changing any settings? I have attached pictures of 2 knobs which are on the side. Should I change these?

Loads of heat in room and the rads are not cold but I couldnt say they are warm.

MrDiyFan

Hi all
I'm replacing the glass on my oisin stove

The glass sticks out slightly on the bottom meaning the retaining brackets are fitted at a slight angle. It seems to be the design of the door,it looks deeper on top. Does this matter and how tough is the glass when fitting (does it crack easily)
Thanks

Pellets are expensive ?

rpmcs

Most reputable stove/ fireplace shops will advise you on good pellet stoves.

My advice would be.....

Like cars you need someone who knows the stove and how to service fix if display shows error.

Many retailers can sell the stoves but when problems arrive can they send out a service agent in Ireland who will fix?


They are a simple enough workings as long as you know what the stove is telling you.


Pellets are one of the cheapest fuels out there.

Stoves that work on small holder that you fill with a bag of pellets are better than one that needs a huge storage containers which don't deal well with out moist climate.

1% of bag of pellets is ash so it's little cleaning.

Kalor are one make of stove who have back up in Ireland and most parts in stock in Ireland if needed.

washman3

Any opinions on a Dimplex Wescott 8kw non-boiler multifuel stove.
Great value in price at the moment. Large firebox, so could take 300mm logs.

Similar to the Hamco Glendine 8kw which is a little more expensive but looks classy.

Any views on both.?

What would a bag of pellets cost and how long would they last ? and what weight is a bag ?

Solid fuels are expensive and not efficiently burned. Not to mention the environmental/health impacts. We're moving house soon and I may or may not consider wood pellets if the cost was reasonable because it's cleaner to burn wood than Oil. I might consider replacing the Oil heating with wood pellets though given the current cost of Oil it probably wouldn't pay back. Solid fuels isn't an option because I'd be paying more than oil and I hate the ash/soot and dust produced.

rpmcs

Approx €4.50 for 15kg bag

That cheap ? The same bag of cat litter wood pellets would cost 15 euros lol.

On average, how long would that last ? And how do you load the stove ?

OwenM

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I posted this before but was looking for model. I have a large stove in kitchen which heats the rads as well. Have fired it up and just wondering should I be changing any settings? I have attached pictures of 2 knobs which are on the side. Should I change these?

Loads of heat in room and the rads are not cold but I couldnt say they are warm.

The black knob, with settings 1-8 is to regulate the air supply. The white on is your pipe stat, 50c seems a bit high to me - mine is set to 35c but yours might be getting reflected heat from the stove itself.

Do this: Next time the stove is lit and warm close all three vents on the front and set the black knob to 3. Give it a minute to settle down then turn the black knob to 8 and watch what happens - you should see the flames increase. The two knobs on the front should only be open when lighting the fire. The knob on top/front is your airwash, it allows air to flow in a certain direction to keep the glass clean - if you leave this partially open then you should turn the black knob down to compensate. The black knob regulates the air supply thermostatically and therefore regulates the heat output.

NB: the airwash will override the black knob allowing air in continuously and is very inefficient.

Shefwedfan

OwenM wrote: »

The black knob, with settings 1-8 is to regulate the air supply. The white on is your pipe stat, 50c seems a bit high to me - mine is set to 35c but yours might be getting reflected heat from the stove itself.

Do this: Next time the stove is lit and warm close all three vents on the front and set the black knob to 3. Give it a minute to settle down then turn the black knob to 8 and watch what happens - you should see the flames increase. The two knobs on the front should only be open when lighting the fire. The knob on top/front is your airwash, it allows air to flow in a certain direction to keep the glass clean - if you leave this partially open then you should turn the black knob down to compensate. The black knob regulates the air supply thermostatically and therefore regulates the heat output.

NB: the airwash will override the black knob allowing air in continuously and is very inefficient.

Thanks, I ended up taking a stab that boiler is Glemore 20B and rang the manufacturer. I had already worked out the white controller was to kick in the pumps to the rads. From what I can see online recommended setting is 60-65. Glenmore said 50.

I seen someone mentioned about 35 but was not recommended because you are pumping at too low a temp.

I asked about black and was told "The black knob is set at the temperature you need radiators and water to reach, say 6 and when boiler reaches this temperature it will close automatically but knob does not move and when temperature drops it re opens"

That does not seem right and what you said seems more correct. When I turn it around it just opens up as to let in air......

rpmcs

Yes black knob would work of temperature.
When stove is cold and set to 6...(middle) it will remain open till it reaches temperature and then closes when it starts to read higher temperature.
It is so when stove and water system is hot, it reduces air intake as not to over fire stove and waste fuel.

rpmcs

My pellet stove runs 12 rads
Fill through lid on top of stove
Generally will have my house toastie for two days on one bag of pellets

rpmcs

rpmcs wrote: »

My pellet stove runs 12 rads
Fill through lid on top of stove
Generally will have my house toastie for two days on one bag of pellets

Really, one bag for 2 days ? how many hours would that be running ? and 4.50 a bag of 15 kg ?

rpmcs

At moment ad it not cold it's random
But generally it on from 7 -8.8.30
And evening from 5 till 10ish

Ah ok so in colder weather you could go through a bag a day ?

Shefwedfan

rpmcs wrote: »

Yes black knob would work of temperature.
When stove is cold and set to 6...(middle) it will remain open till it reaches temperature and then closes when it starts to read higher temperature.
It is so when stove and water system is hot, it reduces air intake as not to over fire stove and waste fuel.

Thanks, so is there a recommended setting? Or just see how it goes.

I am trying to turn off oil altogether when I have stove going.....

OwenM

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks, so is there a recommended setting? Or just see how it goes.

I am trying to turn off oil altogether when I have stove going.....

It's a thermostat, so turn it up and down as required.

So how many bags a day/week of pellets are people going though on average ? in colder weather I mean.

I haven't turned on the heating yet at all and only use the immersion on night rate to heat the water. We're moving in the next few months and heating bills will go up and if pellets are cheaper I may consider it as an alternative to Oil. I would leave the Oil boiler as a backup. Though the cost savings might take years to see after installation.

Is there a grant available ?

eiei0

I'm after installing a hamco Morgan 20 now I have to try to tidy up the install, how close can I go to it with plasterboard,

I need to box it in slightly at the back to hide the pipes and so on,

I've added a picture to show what I have,

I am thinking of moving the pump around the side so I don't need to come out as deep from the chimney breast the stove is 5" from the breast,

I've seen the high temp boards available from the stove places but at 60 quid a board its quiet an expensive option due to the size I require, 8ft x 6ft at least,

Would heat resistant plaster on standard plasterboard work??
Thanks

Shefwedfan

Ok looking for some advice, have a stove in main room. There was a leak in it and it was coming down pipe. Tried to take photos. I thought it would have been problem with chimney at top. Only happens with really heavy rain. Anyway finally got up on roof and doesn't seem to be any issue up there. Got a builder up there with me as well.

Just wondering what to do? should I just replace the whole flue system?

Also the water is all black from the flue liner and has stained the stone work. Any ideas what might clean it off? Thanks
Thanks.......

Robbie.G

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok looking for some advice, have a stove in main room. There was a leak in it and it was coming down pipe. Tried to take photos. I thought it would have been problem with chimney at top. Only happens with really heavy rain. Anyway finally got up on roof and doesn't seem to be any issue up there. Got a builder up there with me as well.

Just wondering what to do? should I just replace the whole flue system?

Also the water is all black from the flue liner and has stained the stone work. Any ideas what might clean it off? Thanks
Thanks.......

That is due to the flue adapter water leaking around it
I would replace the complete flue and fit a flexi liner it's the only way this will be fixed right

Shefwedfan

Robbie.G wrote: »

That is due to the flue adapter water leaking around it
I would replace the complete flue and fit a flexi liner it's the only way this will be fixed right

Thanks, I need to keep the same type of flue as it is a feature in a room.

The flue is visible at the back of the stove