the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Mundo7976 · 10-03-2021 4:59pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you fall across two sizes in a manufacturer's recommendation, it can come down to your bodily proportions, as well as your overall height.

If you have a long back and relatively short limbs, you might consider the bigger size, as you might feel you're too far forward over the bars (smaller frame may feel too short, saddle-to-bars, and bars may feel too low), but if you are relatively proportional, or have longer limbs than torso, then the smaller size is probably better. 183 and 85 sounds fairly proportional, so the Medium may well be fine, but a red flag might be if you feel that the front end is a bit low/short, which might not be confidence-inspiring on gravelly descents (but which might be fine on a road bike).

Given that you'll be at the edge of either size, be prepared to move things (saddle, bars, stem) about a bit and maybe flip/change the stem, etc.

Sound advice, cheers 👍🏻

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 5:33pm

Has anybody got any experience of changing brake pads on a Fiiiido D2 please?
I cant find any YouTube (or other) videos, or written tutorials.

Thanks in advance.

cletus · 11-03-2021 5:36pm

I don't have any experience, but whats the issue you are running into? Maybe some pictures, and a solution can be reached

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 10:13pm

It is actually my nephews, I ordered the pads online, he's popping over at the weekend to see if i can work it out - was hoping to have some information before he came over.
Maybe a video, or text tutorial.

He's using it daily with crap rear brakes, I kinda like him and don't want him crashing on his commute to work lol

CramCycle · 11-03-2021 10:35pm

Anyone know of alternative pads to K03S Shimano ones? Out of stock everywhere. Found a few I think are compatible but not 100% confident. Gonna buy a L03A to tide me over but I'd love to know if there are suitable non fin ones around.

nicksnikita · 11-03-2021 10:58pm

Question regarding FSA Gossamer crankset.

I have the crankset and want to fit it to my bike. When I tighten the crank bolt, it also preloads the BB bearings after a certain torque. Is this normal or am I missing someting?

If the above is in any way unclear, I install the full crankset, tighten the crank bolt and at a certain point, the crank goes from spinning freely to feeling quite tight to spin.

Tried it on 2 different frames with same result (one with a Shimano BSA BB and the other a Miche pressfit --> Shimano adapter,

The recommended torque specification is 38-41Nm but I'm not getting anywhere near that.

Photo of left side crank arm attached for clarity

Thanks, Nico

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 11:35pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Anyone know of alternative pads to K03S Shimano ones? Out of stock everywhere. Found a few I think are compatible but not 100% confident. Gonna buy a L03A to tide me over but I'd love to know if there are suitable non fin ones around.

I have 2 sets of K03s that I bought recently, you could borrow until they're in stock, you could replace them, or I bought spurious ones from aliexpress, you're welcome to try, I put a set on my bike and they are working fine.

Either option would tide you over, no?

Brusna · 12-03-2021 8:36am

nicksnikita wrote: »

Question regarding FSA Gossamer crankset.

I have the crankset and want to fit it to my bike. When I tighten the crank bolt, it also preloads the BB bearings after a certain torque. Is this normal or am I missing someting?

If the above is in any way unclear, I install the full crankset, tighten the crank bolt and at a certain point, the crank goes from spinning freely to feeling quite tight to spin.

Tried it on 2 different frames with same result (one with a Shimano BSA BB and the other a Miche pressfit --> Shimano adapter,

The recommended torque specification is 38-41Nm but I'm not getting anywhere near that.

Thanks, Nico

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 9:02am

Brusna wrote: »

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

Thanks for the reply. Your process above sounds similar to Shimano cranks whereas I only have a single crank bolt as opposed to the 2 M5s.

Some pics attached

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 9:03am

Brusna wrote: »

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

The process you describe sounds similar to Shimano whereas my cranks don't use that system (it just has a central crank bolt).

Pic of left side crank arm attached

Brusna · 12-03-2021 10:45am

nicksnikita wrote: »

The process you describe sounds similar to Shimano whereas my cranks don't use that system (it just has a central crank bolt).

Pic of left side crank arm attached

Ah ok, I’m not familiar with that one.

cletus · 12-03-2021 10:45am

Is this the same crank? Are you missing a spacer, by any chance

CramCycle · 12-03-2021 12:10pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

I have 2 sets of K03s that I bought recently, you could borrow until they're in stock, you could replace them, or I bought spurious ones from aliexpress, you're welcome to try, I put a set on my bike and they are working fine.

Either option would tide you over, no?

That would be brilliant, I'll drop you a PM later.

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 5:05pm

I spotted that vid but looks like he has BB30.

I've never used washers with an outboard BB but I wonder if I need them :-/

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 3:35pm

Was cleaning my bike today and degreasing / lubing the chain.

I think I may need to replace my chain and get some new tyres for summer.

The chain was in the biggest at the front & and the smallest and largest at the back.

Took a couple of pics of nicks my tyres have picked up.

Fair to see they all need replacing?

E: Approx 1500km done on bike.

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 3:36pm

missed this pic with 5 attachment limit.

Type 17 · 13-03-2021 3:45pm

Tyres look fine, the rubber doesn't look dried out (still flexible and grippy), and once there's no bulging of the carcass at the cuts, and you can't see the tube at the bottom of a cut, it's fine. Always pick out the debris in the cuts, to prevent it working its way deeper and cutting the carcass.

The chain is worn out, and you might also need a new cassette with that level of wear.

magicbastarder · 13-03-2021 3:57pm

i wouldn't be too worried about those nicks, but it's worth deflating the tyres so you can pinch them and open up the nicks to pick out anything which might be caught in them; the 4th pic has a nick which looks like it could still be occupied.

you should be able to pick up a chain wear checker in many shops, i think i paid under a tenner in halfords. based on this article, it's probably near the end of its life though:
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/08/bicycle-chain-wear-and-checking-for-it/

edit: should have refreshed the page before typing!

Rezident · 13-03-2021 6:53pm

Finally got a new road bike (Giant Defy Advanced 3), coming from a heavy hybrid, I love the new road bike and how light and fast it is but I keep getting punctures. Third puncture today after 4 (short) cycles (<15km). Punctures on both wheels, so I assume the tyres, even on expensive bikes are not great for Irish roads (which seem to be partly made of broken glass). I haven't had a puncture on my hybrid in 2 years (Schwalbe Marathon Smartguard tyres) so i was going to get the same tyres for the road bike, is that a good idea? I've never had a road bike before.

Also, I notice there is no rim tape on the wheels of the road bike, should there be? Would that help?

Last two punctures are in the same place on the tube on both different wheels - a weird L-shaped tear right beside the valve, on the inside, valve-side. On two new tubes on both wheels. Any idea what could be causing these, after just 25 mins of cycling? On both wheels.

07Lapierre · 13-03-2021 7:02pm

Sounds like your wheels should have a rim tape. Refit the tube and see if the cut lines up with the valve hole, or one of the spoke holes.

Rezident · 13-03-2021 7:25pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Sounds like your wheels should have a rim tape. Refit the tube and see if the cut lines up with the valve hole, or one of the spoke holes.

It is close to the valve hole, about an inch or two away. I will get rim tape, my last bike came with it. Any recommendations for rim tape? What's the best for avoiding punctures?

LollipopJimmy · 13-03-2021 7:30pm

Anybody else find their Di2 charger 'fussy' about the type of plug top it uses?

The one from my Samsung phone discharged the battery and the only one that seems to work is an older Samsung one I have rather than the latest type and the older one again doesn't work either.

If its going to be fussy why not supply a ****ing plug top

CramCycle · 13-03-2021 7:32pm

LikeTheseOdds wrote: »

missed this pic with 5 attachment limit.

I suspect your chainring is worn quite well but its hard to tell, can you take a pic without the chain on it?

The tyres look grand

07Lapierre · 13-03-2021 7:36pm

Rezident wrote: »

It is close to the valve hole, about an inch or two away. I will get rim tape, my last bike came with it. Any recommendations for rim tape? What's the best for avoiding punctures?

My wheels don’t need rim tape so I’m probably not the best person to ask. But I would recommend that you ensure the ones you get are as wide as possible. If they are not then they can move sideways and expose the edge of the spoke holes , which can cause punctures

magicbastarder · 13-03-2021 7:47pm

are they SR2 wheels on it? this ad for a pair shows rim tape.

https://www.carousell.sg/p/giant-s-r2-wheelset-109871287/

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 7:58pm

CramCycle wrote: »

I suspect your chainring is worn quite well but its hard to tell, can you take a pic without the chain on it?

The tyres look grand

Will do! I left it in with my local bike shop to have a look at the cassette, and pop a new chain on it.

I bought the stand in lidl, glad I did too as I'd wouldn't have noticed these things. Just happened across it before putting dry lube onto the chain after degreasing. Just goes to show me I've a bit to go before doing these things myself :pac:

TerryDi2Center · 13-03-2021 8:47pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Anybody else find their Di2 charger 'fussy' about the type of plug top it uses?

The one from my Samsung phone discharged the battery and the only one that seems to work is an older Samsung one I have rather than the latest type and the older one again doesn't work either.

If its going to be fussy why not supply a ****ing plug top

Make sure whatever you plug it into is capable of supplying at least 1.0A... otherwise you can experience issues like these.

mvt · 13-03-2021 8:48pm

I Can deal with anything on my bikes except bottom brackets which always baffle me.

I have a Trek with 105 cranks & I think an octolink BB.

I would like to replace both with a new 105 compact crank & am unsure as to the compatible BB?

Also, if I do this would the same BB be compatible with a sub compact crank?

One last question, would anyone have a online source for a largeish quantity of biodegradable chain degreaser, say a gallon or so ?

Thanks in advance.

Rezident · 13-03-2021 9:07pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

are they SR2 wheels on it? this ad for a pair shows rim tape.

https://www.carousell.sg/p/giant-s-r2-wheelset-109871287/

yes they are SR2 wheels but no rim tape. It was supposed to come tubeless, but the compressor at the bike shop broke apparently, so they put in normal tubes, which suits me as the whole tubeless thing looks way too complicated for me, but now they keep bursting.

Yep from that photo, it looks like they need rim tape, now why does cycletribe.ie have no rim tape?

Type 17 · 13-03-2021 9:43pm

TerryDi2Center wrote: »

Make sure whatever you plug it into is capable of supplying at least 1.0A... otherwise you can experience issues like these.

And note that many laptop/desktop computers will limit the power output (amps) of the USB ports, so even though the LED will initially light up on the Di2 charger, the PC will cut the current to a really low level after a few seconds, to protect the motherboard - this will keep the LED on, but the battery won't be charged, no matter how long you leave it.

Best use a dedicated charger (that can provide at least 1.0A, as TerryDi2Center says)

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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