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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Hi everyone...
    My bottle cage bolt seized in the rivnut causing the rivnut to spin in the frame. I cut off the bottle cage and hacksawed the head off the bolt.
    The rivnut hole in the carbon frame appears intact.
    Where's the best place to source rivnuts in Ireland?
    Cheers, Nicholas
    Local hardware shop or your buying a pack of 100s for no reason
    Type 17 wrote: »
    If you want to set a rivnut without a proprietary tool, put an M5 bolt in it, with some grease on the threads, and with 3 or 4 washers that are the same diameter under the head. Screw it down by hand and put it into the hole in the frame.

    Use a long (water-pump style or similar) pliers to hold the washers tight, to keep them (and the rivnut) from rotating. Tighten the bolt with an Allen key about 2-3 full turns, and you will have drawn up the bottom of the rivnut and set it in the frame.

    Use a nut instead with a washer below it, you can hold the nut in place with a spanner, works really well and very easy to do. You can also do this too retighten loosened rivnuts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    Maybe this is right place to ask .....

    I took my cassette off yesterday to clean and I realised after spending ages looking for a lost gear cog as I appeared to only have 10 speed on my 11 speed racer .... on my last service my local bike shop put a 10 speed cassette on and used a spacer.....

    Whats peoples view on this .... did he bodge or was it fair gain .... this was before pandemic ....


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,478 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,214 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    jamesd wrote: »
    Local bike shop told me that my front hydraulic Flat Mount Brake caliper is leaking and needs replacement but he has issues getting parts now so I said I'd source it myself.
    Its a BR-RS505 caliper, can't see one online but I see a newer model in cycle superstore that I expect might work?

    https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=104795
    Are you in a rush for that? I have an RS505 in the parts box, think it is unused. Trouble is I'm abroad so would need a while to get it to you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,822 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.

    Cripes, the bike must have stayed in the shed for the year. Sure the indexing would be all over the place if the rest of the groupset is 11 speed.:eek:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.

    I don't want any come back .... what you said is correct ... it has made me more determined to start doing my own jobs ... I bought a cycle tool set and its time I started using it...

    The shop has a good reputation so maybe it was a mistake, maybe it was a member of staff in rush .

    I need the shop more than they need me so I'll just put it down to myself not being clued up enough and cop onto things .. .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    fat bloke wrote: »
    Cripes, the bike must have stayed in the shed for the year. Sure the indexing would be all over the place if the rest of the groupset is 11 speed.:eek:

    Embarrassinly enough id done 3500 km on it if not more last year.... plus have used it on turbo all this year of over another 1500 ha ha


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,121 ✭✭✭Invincible


    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Invincible wrote: »
    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

    Ball up some tinfoil loosely, wet it, and rub the chrome


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,121 ✭✭✭Invincible


    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Invincible wrote: »
    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

    Like I said, wet tinfoil. It won't scratch the chrome, it's too soft, but it will lift the rust spots, as long as its surface rust, and the chrome isn't peeling or anything


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,121 ✭✭✭Invincible


    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in shed last couple of months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    A lot of that chrome is gone, and tinfoil (or wire wool*, my weapon of choice) will only remove the orangey look, but there will be brown rust underneath, which won't be going anywhere. It's only cosmetic, and won't affect the functioning of the bike.

    *If you use wire wool, get fine stuff (grade 00 or finer) in a hardware shop (it's used to prepare wood for painting) - Brillo or other scouring products are grade 3 or 4, and will scratch everything to bits.

    PS: There seems to be a fault in the forum software right now, where new posts aren't appearing until you refresh the page.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    The red circles are too far gone, chrome is damaged.

    Green circle could be saved by the method I've outlined twice now

    545591.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,307 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    run of bad luck or incompetence (take your pick !)

    forgot i didn't have to take the fixing bolt out of the drive side of my bb30 crankset, replaced bearings, went to put fixing bolt back in won't go in threads in crank knackered - this hasn't been touched since it left the factory (i assume). came out ok 3was a little stiff but just trashing the threads going back in ......


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    run of bad luck or incompetence (take your pick !)

    forgot i didn't have to take the fixing bolt out of the drive side of my bb30 crankset, replaced bearings, went to put fixing bolt back in won't go in threads in crank knackered - this hasn't been touched since it left the factory (i assume). came out ok 3was a little stiff but just trashing the threads going back in ......

    How badly trashed? Do you have a tap and die set?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,307 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    cletus wrote: »
    How badly trashed? Do you have a tap and die set?

    no idea managed to find a spindle and new bolts on a german website i do have a tap and die somewhere wonder if its the right thread ....

    although on a better note i can now change bb30 bearings in about 15mins if i dont break something :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    "Use a nut instead with a washer below it, you can hold the nut in place with a spanner, works really well and very easy to do. You can also do this too retighten loosened rivnuts." [/QUOTE]

    Does the nut need to be threaded onto the M5 bolt or does it need to be bigger than the bolt or does it not matter?

    Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17



    Does the nut need to be threaded onto the M5 bolt or does it need to be bigger than the bolt or does it not matter?

    Cheers

    It should be bigger than the M5 bolt, so use an M6 one - the idea is that the rivnut remains still whilst the M5 bolt is rotated, to draw the bottom of the rivnut up, to set it in the frame.
    Holding the washers or nut still (and greasing the threads of the bolt) helps ensure that the rivnut doesn't turn with the bolt.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Type 17 wrote: »
    It should be bigger than the M5 bolt, so use an M6 one - the idea is that the rivnut remains still whilst the M5 bolt is rotated, to draw the bottom of the rivnut up, to set it in the frame.
    Holding the washers or nut still (and greasing the threads of the bolt) helps ensure that the rivnut doesn't turn with the bolt.

    +1 I found the solution from my Dad (and confirmed by YouTube) after several bike shops had suggested sending the bike back to the manufacturer. Eventually the rivnut wore through the frame but I got another year and then a poster popped a bigger one in for me.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 539 ✭✭✭G-Man


    Where do I find spokes online locally in ireland or dublin locally in a shop. Its for a cargo ebike rear wheel.

    SAPIM 224 13g rear spokes for urban arrow

    They should be inexpensive, so I will buy 10 or so for spares.

    I guess I dont have to take the wheel off (its complicated with a nuvinci hub) and of course a very heavy frame ?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    G-Man wrote: »
    Where do I find spokes online locally in ireland or dublin locally in a shop. Its for a cargo ebike rear wheel.

    SAPIM 224 13g rear spokes for urban arrow

    They should be inexpensive, so I will buy 10 or so for spares.

    I guess I dont have to take the wheel off (its complicated with a nuvinci hub) and of course a very heavy frame ?

    Bee Cycles or Dutch Bike Shop would be worth contacting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 712 ✭✭✭barryribs


    Hi all,


    looking for some advice. I found my brothers old bike at my parents house at the weekend and its in very rough shape and I'm wondering if it is worth fixing.


    From looking at it, it will need;
    New wheels + tyres
    New brake pads
    New chain
    Possibly new rear derailleur


    Do you guys think this something an amateur could do or would I need to bring it to a shop? The bike is nothing spectacular, its more sentimental than anything.The pads and tyres I should be fine with, albeit the rear wheel's bolt is rounded - a bridge to cross another day. So my questions are:


    I'm assuming that if I were to change the chain, it would have to be the same/similar length?
    How can I tell which model of derailleur I can replace the current one with?
    Is it actually worth doing this, or am I better off letting it go?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,478 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    stick a photo up here; it sounds like you're already looking at over €150 for low end kit anyway, and the bike may not be worth spending that on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 712 ✭✭✭barryribs


    stick a photo up here; it sounds like you're already looking at over €150 for low end kit anyway, and the bike may not be worth spending that on.



    Thanks, I appreciate the ball park figure too. I'll try to get a few pictures up later this week. I reckon its been in the shed for 7 years at this point.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,782 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Invincible wrote: »
    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.
    cletus wrote: »
    Ball up some tinfoil loosely, wet it, and rub the chrome
    Invincible wrote: »
    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.
    cletus wrote: »
    Like I said, wet tinfoil. It won't scratch the chrome, it's too soft, but it will lift the rust spots, as long as its surface rust, and the chrome isn't peeling or anything
    Invincible wrote: »
    What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in shed last couple of months.

    giphy.gif


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Grips for a hybrid with the bar ends combined, any recommendations and brown if possible :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Grips for a hybrid with the bar ends combined, any recommendations and brown if possible :rolleyes:

    Velo do a nice pair that have the bar-ends built in, but they are grey (Irish LBSs should be able to get these). If colour is important, you'd be better off getting brown grips and separate bar-ends.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭2 Wheels Good


    Wilier/newer bikes question, rear brake cable is internal from headtube to seatpost, do they generally have internal cable guides or does the cable run loose? I'm swapping handlebars on a new bike so need to remove the rear cable. Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 976 ✭✭✭8valve


    Wilier/newer bikes question, rear brake cable is internal from headtube to seatpost, do they generally have internal cable guides or does the cable run loose? I'm swapping handlebars on a new bike so need to remove the rear cable. Thanks


    Every manufacturer is different, unfortunately.


    Running brake cables through top tubes is fairly straightforward, though, as most have a cable stop that can be removed, giving you a good sized aperture to poke the cable end out through.


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