the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

07Lapierre

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Wilier/newer bikes question, rear brake cable is internal from headtube to seatpost, do they generally have internal cable guides or does the cable run loose? I'm swapping handlebars on a new bike so need to remove the rear cable. Thanks

Disconnect the cable from the calipers and pull the outer casting. If it doesn't slide off, it's because the outer cable runs all the way from the shifter.

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

Every manufacturer is different, unfortunately.


Running brake cables through top tubes is fairly straightforward, though, as most have a cable stop that can be removed, giving you a good sized aperture to poke the cable end out through.

True, if one of cable stops (usually the rear) has a tiny Allen bolt in it, it should be removed, and while there is no guide in the top tube, the big aperture makes feeding a cable through easy enough.
If neither cable stop is removable, there is usually a guide for either the inner cable only (two outer housing sections are required) or for the whole outer cable housing (one long outer housing is required).
In theory, there might be frames with non-removable cable stops and no internal guides, but that would be insanity :eek:

54and56

This might test the resolve of the thread title but is there a pragmatic maintenance routine for a hydraulic brake 105/Ultegra component type carbon fibre road bike which gets out 2-3 times a week for a total of 150km - 200km on mainly country roads?

I'm pretty good for doing the tyre pressure and keeping the chain/cassette well lubed but I don't have a post spin routine for cleaning / wiping down or a weekly / monthly routine for degreasing, cleaning and re-lubing etc which I know I should adopt to properly look after the bike.

I checked out the GCN video's but when one of them used WD40 for both degreasing and lubing I kind of lost confidence in them!!

Is there a pragmatic routine I should follow which someone can point to and what are the recommended products to use for degreasing and re-lubing given our inclement weather and filthy roads?

07Lapierre

I don’t think disc brakes make much difference to a cleaning routine. The main difference is you have to be very careful and ensure you don’t contaminate disc brake rotors.

I use hot soapy water for cleaning my bikes. I use biodegradable degreaser (from Halfords) and I use Muck off dry and wet lube.

I do similar weekly mileage and I clean my commuter bike once a week.

magicbastarder

07Lapierre wrote: »

The main difference is you have to be very careful and ensure you don’t contaminate disc brake rotors.

just highlighting this as i've never found it difficult to avoid contaminating pads when cleaning the bike; my main issues were contamination when commuting (which passed dublin port, so plenty of crap on the road)

country roads should not see the same sort of oily nonsense on the roads; in fact a couple of times, my braking performance has improved after a wet, mucky cycle as (i am speculating) the 'clean' dirt on country roads helped scour the pads and rotors clean.

54and56

07Lapierre wrote: »

I don’t think disc brakes make much difference to a cleaning routine. The main difference is you have to be very careful and ensure you don’t contaminate disc brake rotors.

I use hot soapy water for cleaning my bikes. I use biodegradable degreaser (from Halfords) and I use Muck off dry and wet lube.

I do similar weekly mileage and I clean my commuter bike once a week.

Thanks Lapierre, I mentioned disc brakes as I have it in my head that you shouldn't be using any form of spray based lubricant near disc brakes.

As it happens Muc Off 4 Wet Oil is my default lub. I also have the 4 Dry Oil but rarely choose to use it as I'm never that confident the week or two ahead will be dry, even in the height of an Irish summer

I'll check out the biodegradable degreaser, I like the sound of that Vs WD40.

What, if any, role do products like spray on Silicon Lubricant or spray on White Lithium Grease play in relation to bike maintenance?

cletus

54and56 wrote: »

Thanks Lapierre, I mentioned disc brakes as I have it in my head that you shouldn't be using any form of spray based lubricant near disc brakes.

As it happens Muc Off 4 Wet Oil is my default lub. I also have the 4 Dry Oil but rarely choose to use it as I'm never that confident the week or two ahead will be dry, even in the height of an Irish summer

I'll check out the biodegradable degreaser, I like the sound of that Vs WD40.

What, if any, role do products like spray on Silicon Lubricant or spray on White Lithium Grease play in relation to bike maintenance?

You shouldn't be using lubricant of any kind near any brake system, considering they all work on friction

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

just highlighting this as i've never found it difficult to avoid contaminating pads when cleaning the bike; my main issues were contamination when commuting (which passed dublin port, so plenty of crap on the road)

country roads should not see the same sort of oily nonsense on the roads; in fact a couple of times, my braking performance has improved after a wet, mucky cycle as (i am speculating) the 'clean' dirt on country roads helped scour the pads and rotors clean.

What i'm referring to is people using a sponge to clean their bike. Oil gets on the sponge and they then use that sponge to clean the brake rotors.

I tend to use two sponges. 1. is for the drivetrain components and the 2nd sponge is for the rest of the bike.

07Lapierre

54and56 wrote: »

Thanks Lapierre, I mentioned disc brakes as I have it in my head that you shouldn't be using any form of spray based lubricant near disc brakes.

That's correct. Avoid using one sponge for the whole bike. Use one for the drivetrain and another, clean sponge for the brakes and the rest of the bike.

Once the bike is clean, i wiper it dry with a cloth (well, an old tee shirt!) and then have a separate cloth for wiping/drying the chain.

once that's all done, i lube the chain.

54and56

07Lapierre wrote: »

That's correct. Avoid using one sponge for the whole bike. Use one for the drivetrain and another, clean sponge for the brakes and the rest of the bike.

Once the bike is clean, i wiper it dry with a cloth (well, an old tee shirt!) and then have a separate cloth for wiping/drying the chain.

once that's all done, i lube the chain.

Perfect, sounds like with a small bit or organisation and the right amount of sponges and towels I can quickly and easily do a weekly wash and lube.

MayoSalmon

Got my first puncture...tyre fine after inspection and rim tape has hole matching up exactly where both the hole is on my inner tube and spoke is.

Have ordered new rim tape online in order to fix that issue. Any point patching up inenr tube or just install new one? I assume I also need to completely remove old rim tape before installing new one?!

Thanks

07Lapierre

MayoSalmon wrote: »

Got my first puncture...tyre fine after inspection and rim tape has hole matching up exactly where both the hole is on my inner tube and spoke is.

Have ordered new rim tape online in order to fix that issue. Any point patching up inenr tube or just install new one? I assume I also need to completely remove old rim tape before installing new one?!

Thanks

Yes and yes.

remove the old rim tape before fitting the new one.

put the punctured tube in your shed/garage. When you have 3 or 4 of them, go out to the shed/garage with a coffee and fix all of them. then wash your bike!

keane2097

I'm trying to put a new crankset on an old Trek 1.2, replacing the FSA Vera cranks that are on it currently. Unfortunately I can't get the old ones off.

I have a crank puller as shown. I'm screwing the outer part into the crank as far as it'll go and then spinning the handle so the inner circular part goes in beyond the crank, but when the handle becomes tight no matter how much effort I put into it the crank isn't budging. In the videos I've watched it just slips straight off. I'm concerned I'm either missing a step or the tool isn't quite right.

Any advice would be much appreciated.



EDIT: I cut my nails since.

cletus

keane2097 wrote: »

I'm trying to put a new crankset on an old Trek 1.2, replacing the FSA Vera cranks that are on it currently. Unfortunately I can't get the old ones off.

I have a crank puller as shown. I'm screwing the outer part into the crank as far as it'll go and then spinning the handle so the inner circular part goes in beyond the crank, but when the handle becomes tight no matter how much effort I put into it the crank isn't budging. In the videos I've watched it just slips straight off. I'm concerned I'm either missing a step or the tool isn't quite right.

Any advice would be much appreciated.



EDIT: I cut my nails since.

Heat and/or lots of wd40 (or similar penetrating fluid) will be your friend here.

keane2097

cletus wrote: »

Heat and/or lots of wd40 (or similar penetrating fluid) will be your friend here.

WD40 I have in the shed, I'll spray a load of that in around and let it soak in for a while. You're thinking it's just seized up I take it?

cletus

keane2097 wrote: »

WD40 I have in the shed, I'll spray a load of that in around and let it soak in for a while. You're thinking it's just seized up I take it?

Could be galvanic corrosion, if the crank is aluminium and the spindle is steel

Thelonious Monk

Here's a stupid question - got my bike serviced only like 2 months ago, but now when I push down hard on pedals if often kind of slips off the chain ring at the front, and I have to use the derailleur to get it back on.
Does this mean maybe the teeth on the chain ring are worn down or something and that's why it keeps slipping?

07Lapierre

Thelonious Monk wrote: »

Here's a stupid question - got my bike serviced only like 2 months ago, but now when I push down hard on pedals if often kind of slips off the chain ring at the front, and I have to use the derailleur to get it back on.
Does this mean maybe the teeth on the chain ring are worn down or something and that's why it keeps slipping?

Sounds like worn chainring alright. Did they fit a new chain as part of the service?

CramCycle

keane2097 wrote: »

I'm trying to put a new crankset on an old Trek 1.2, replacing the FSA Vera cranks that are on it currently. Unfortunately I can't get the old ones off.

I have a crank puller as shown. I'm screwing the outer part into the crank as far as it'll go and then spinning the handle so the inner circular part goes in beyond the crank, but when the handle becomes tight no matter how much effort I put into it the crank isn't budging. In the videos I've watched it just slips straight off. I'm concerned I'm either missing a step or the tool isn't quite right.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

EDIT: I cut my nails since.

Is the inner bit wound in (not out) before you put it in, so the threads on the outer ring should almost go in completely before you start twisting the handle to extend the inner bolt. Once it is fully engaged, you can on occasion need to put in a fair bit of force. Don't use the hammer but increase the pressure. Normally youtube videos have already removed it before hand so that they don't fluff it when they do remove it, it has always taken me a bit more force than they put in.

Thelonious Monk

07Lapierre wrote: »

Sounds like worn chainring alright. Did they fit a new chain as part of the service?

No not a new chain, I think they changed the from derailleur. Thanks. I guess I'll need to bring it back then, I had been planning on doing a bike maintenance course before covid, I'm useless!

nicksnikita

CramCycle wrote: »

Local hardware shop or your buying a pack of 100s for no reason



Use a nut instead with a washer below it, you can hold the nut in place with a spanner, works really well and very easy to do. You can also do this too retighten loosened rivnuts.

Rivnuts arrived yesterday and installed with no issues using above method. Thanks for the advice.
Nico

2 Wheels Good

keane2097 wrote: »

I'm trying to put a new crankset on an old Trek 1.2, replacing the FSA Vera cranks that are on it currently. Unfortunately I can't get the old ones off.

I have a crank puller as shown. I'm screwing the outer part into the crank as far as it'll go and then spinning the handle so the inner circular part goes in beyond the crank, but when the handle becomes tight no matter how much effort I put into it the crank isn't budging. In the videos I've watched it just slips straight off. I'm concerned I'm either missing a step or the tool isn't quite right.

Any advice would be much appreciated.



EDIT: I cut my nails since.

I did the same last year on an older bike, and my BB looked a bit worse than yours. I think it just ended up being brute force got them off. I'd a tool wrench like yours that I snapped the handle off on the non drive side from the force I'd to use to it definitely was just age/tightness. You may just need more leverage.

cletus

Any sign of the crank moving, keane2097?

keane2097

Not yet guys but I have a plan in place to get something to fit over the handle of the puller to give myself more leverage as recommended above. My old man reckons he has something at work that will do the trick so I'm waiting till tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice. Now that I know it's the right tool and a matter of force I'm determined to get it off by hook or by crook. I'm replacing the crankset so as long as I don't manage to damage the front derailleur or something I should be OK

cletus

keane2097 wrote: »

Not yet guys but I have a plan in place to get something to fit over the handle of the puller to give myself more leverage as recommended above. My old man reckons he has something at work that will do the trick so I'm waiting till tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice. Now that I know it's the right tool and a matter of force I'm determined to get it off by hook or by crook. I'm replacing the crankset so as long as I don't manage to damage the front derailleur or something I should be OK

It's possible to strip the crank threads, so be careful.

If you can apply heat directly into the crank where the spindle sits, it's a very effective way to loosen a friction fit like that

keane2097

cletus wrote: »

It's possible to strip the crank threads, so be careful.

If you can apply heat directly into the crank where the spindle sits, it's a very effective way to loosen a friction fit like that

Any suggestions on how I might do that? The only thing I can think of that I have available is a hairdryer :pac:

It occurs to me actually that I will probably need to change the bottom bracket while I'm at it? The replacement cranks are the two piece Sora FCR 3000 rather than the square taper that the FSA one has.

cletus

Something like this is what I use

cletus

keane2097 wrote: »

It occurs to me actually that I will probably need to change the bottom bracket while I'm at it? The replacement cranks are the two piece Sora FCR 3000 rather than the square taper that the FSA one has.

Yeah, it looks like you'll need a hollowtech BB

magicbastarder

I used a great gun. Also, I initially made the mistake of bracing against the crank, i.e. turning the tool while holding the crank to stop it moving. With the tool I had, you needed to turn the spindle of the tool while preventing the outer body of the tool moving.

two wheels good

CramCycle wrote: »

Is the inner bit wound in (not out) before you put it in, so the threads on the outer ring should almost go in completely before you start twisting the handle to extend the inner bolt. Once it is fully engaged, you can on occasion need to put in a fair bit of force. Don't use the hammer but increase the pressure. Normally youtube videos have already removed it before hand so that they don't fluff it when they do remove it, it has always taken me a bit more force than they put in.

Yes. I wondered if you were somehow running out of travel on the extractor pin.


Pour some hot water over it targetting the crank not the BB. Leaving the extractor in posn won't hurt. Grease the contact surfaces prior to refitting.