the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

cletus

fixXxer wrote: »

Fill the tyre with air :pac: I don't have a bit with the pump that connects to it.

You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.

Effects

Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say buy a new track pump.

cletus

Effects wrote: »

Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say guy a new track pump.

New bike?

Jim Gazebo

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

cletus

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do

Sounds like front derailleur issues

Jim Gazebo

cletus wrote: »

Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do

Sounds like front derailleur issues

Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.

loyatemu

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.

sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.

07Lapierre

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

See post 3408..

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116621577&postcount=3408

Jim Gazebo

07Lapierre wrote: »

See post 3408..

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116621577&postcount=3408

Thank you!

Jim Gazebo

loyatemu wrote: »

sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.

Cheers for that! I'll have a proper look when home.

CramCycle

New carbon wheels and one spoke seared off near the nipple. The rim is true so is it as simple as putting in a new spoke and tightening up to the same tension as its opposing spoke?

07Lapierre

CramCycle wrote: »

New carbon wheels and one spoke seared off near the nipple. The rim is true so is it as simple as putting in a new spoke and tightening up to the same tension as its opposing spoke?

Don't think so. The spoke broke for a reason. Best to leave it in and have a new spoke fitted and get the wheel re-trued.

wersal gummage

Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit...

Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??

I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!

Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?

Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job

CramCycle

07Lapierre wrote: »

Don't think so. The spoke broke for a reason. Best to leave it in and have a new spoke fitted and get the wheel re-trued.

I've trued alu wheels before. It isn't out of true but I will give it a thorough going over. Is there any difference in working with Carbon rims vs Alu one is my main question?

CramCycle

wersal gummage wrote: »

Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit...

Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??

Nope, I bought a Park Toll press fit removal tool (€40 but you will get one from Ali Express for €15) and it came with the fittings for its BB Press, I then made one from a threaded rod (€6), 2 nuts and 2 washers (€1). Has fitted 3 BBs so far without any noise. The screw together ones seem to be making up for frame alignment issues rather than being better.

I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!

If it was as bad as people make out, it would have been abandoned, the internet is full of complaints and very few positive stories. Mine has never creaked. I've read a few saying to put a fair whack of grease but I think I only gave mine a light rub. If there is creaking, I imagine its a frame tolerance issue rather than a BB issue, just my opinion.

Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?

It's really easy, line them up, press in slightly, have a look they look even, slide in pressfit tool and tighten slowly, stop once flush, don't try to overtighten, another mistake I have heard of that can damage the BB.

Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job

Its certainly as easy as any other option IMO

Type 17

I agree, most press-fit horror stories are posted online, but the vast majority of press-fit installations don't give trouble, once there is some lubricant on all facing parts.

Regarding all interface areas on bikes, a little grease or other suitable lubricant is essential - dry facing-parts allow moisture in when the bike is ridden in the rain, and (microscopic) grit causes creaking afterwards - I've experienced this on my own and customers' bikes in places like bb's, chainrings, seat-posts/frames, seat-posts/saddle rails, stems/bars, stems/forks, and skewers/thru-axles.

wersal gummage

Much obliged, thank you both very much.

I have a fair few tools and different grease, carbon paste etc so I'm happy enough in general, was just a bit nervous about the press fit, will also be my first venture into di2 but YouTube will be my friend there

07Lapierre

CramCycle wrote: »

I've trued alu wheels before. It isn't out of true but I will give it a thorough going over. Is there any difference in working with Carbon rims vs Alu one is my main question?

I'm not an expert but I suspect carbon rims would not be as easy to true. Also the modern straigh pull, bladed spokes require a specific tool to hold them while you tighten the nipple. Without it, the spoke will twist.

07Lapierre

wersal gummage wrote: »

Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit...

Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??

I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!

Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?

Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job

I've installed press fitt BB cups by using a length of threaded bar, three nuts and a few washers. Lock two nuts together at one end, then slide a washer onto the bar. Then thread the bar through the Left BB cup...through the Frame and then add the Right BB cup. Then add a washer and tighten it all up. Worked a treat!

CramCycle

07Lapierre wrote: »

I'm not an expert but I suspect carbon rims would not be as easy to true. Also the modern straight pull, bladed spokes require a specific tool to hold them while you tighten the nipple. Without it, the spoke will twist.

I should clarify, at this point, the wheel does not appear out of true. Waiting time in the LBS is 3 weeks. I am tempted as they are new wheels to leave them in but 3 weeks is a long wait. As they are new, I also don't want to go in somewhere else in case they damage them and void the warranty, the shop gave me the spare spoke and apologised about the wait time. I might just try it and drop it in if issues develop.

Large bottle small glass

CramCycle wrote: »

I should clarify, at this point, the wheel does not appear out of true. Waiting time in the LBS is 3 weeks. I am tempted as they are new wheels to leave them in but 3 weeks is a long wait. As they are new, I also don't want to go in somewhere else in case they damage them and void the warranty, the shop gave me the spare spoke and apologised about the wait time. I might just try it and drop it in if issues develop.

The spoke broke for a reason.

How new? Unridden?

The fact, I presume a lowish spoke count wheel, isn't out of true with a spoke missing would be a red flag as to the quality of the build.

You should have high and even spoke tension. That at a minimum should be checked.

Is it a broken spoke or the neck of the nipple?

As it's not a cheap wheel I'd be handing it back to be rebuilt if it was me

CramCycle

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

The spoke broke for a reason.
How new? Unridden?

About two months of riding

The fact, I presume a lowish spoke count wheel, isn't out of true with a spoke missing would be a red flag as to the quality of the build.

24, so not really low, it is a CX wheel. It is slightly out of true now. Its monor so maybe I missed it when the spoke broke on the commute.

You should have high and even spoke tension. That at a minimum should be checked.

Can't find my tensiometer, somewhere in the shed.

Is it a broken spoke or the neck of the nipple?

Right where it enters the nipple, which is hidden inside the rim

As it's not a cheap wheel I'd be handing it back to be rebuilt if it was me

Normally I would too but 3 weeks is a long time IMO. Might bite the bullet and bring it back next week. Pain in the ass.

slideshow bob

cletus wrote: »

You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.

That little adaptor is great if you don’t have a track pump, often available in bike shops. I haven’t found them finicky. More than you need to know about valves here... with the adapter shown at 3:55 in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ux08bz43qY

If you only have an old style hand pump it’s hard work and guesswork getting the tyres inflated. A track pump is great for getting tyres to the right pressure quickly. A good investment if you’re using a bike more than once a month.

Type 17

slideshow bob wrote: »

... A track pump is great for getting tyres to the right pressure quickly. A good investment if you’re using a bike more than once a month.

Ironically, it's also essential if you use the bike less than once a month, because the tyres will be soft every time you go to use it, so having a pump that's quick and easy to use means you be less likely to ignore the soft tyres

Large bottle small glass

CramCycle wrote: »

About two months of riding
24, so not really low, it is a CX wheel. It is slightly out of true now. Its monor so maybe I missed it when the spoke broke on the commute.
Can't find my tensiometer, somewhere in the shed.
Right where it enters the nipple, which is hidden inside the rim
Normally I would too but 3 weeks is a long time IMO. Might bite the bullet and bring it back next week. Pain in the ass.

Nds rear?

CramCycle

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

Nds rear?

Yep, rear wheel. Gonna drop it in on Tuesday and hope they get to it quickly. Will take off the tyre and tube to entice them into seeing its a quick and easy job. They are only the second set of expensive wheels I have ever had and after the points made here, I don't want to ruin it myself and have no comeback.

PhillySteak9

I need to replace the bottom bearing on my headset. The existing bearing has the following text on it - TH MR 075 1-1/8 36’ x 4.5 1.6
How do I know what replacement bearing to buy based on this info as I can’t make head or tail of it?

CramCycle

PhillySteak9 wrote: »

I need to replace the bottom bearing on my headset. The existing bearing has the following text on it - TH MR 075 1-1/8 36’ x 4.5 1.6
How do I know what replacement bearing to buy based on this info as I can’t make head or tail of it?

MR075 is the manufacturers code I think, have seen variations on FSA Headsets but someone else will know better

1 1/8 refers to 1'1/8 inch headset
36 x 4.5 I imagine is actually 36 degree by 45degree

https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mr075-th800-headset-bearing-by-fsa.html
or https://all4bikes.be/shop/en/headset-bearings-fsa-bearing-acb-micro-118-36x45-th-800mr075-black-160-6747-p-1620678.html

PhillySteak9

CramCycle wrote: »

MR075 is the manufacturers code I think, have seen variations on FSA Headsets but someone else will know better

1 1/8 refers to 1'1/8 inch headset
36 x 4.5 I imagine is actually 36 degree by 45degree

https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mr075-th800-headset-bearing-by-fsa.html
or https://all4bikes.be/shop/en/headset-bearings-fsa-bearing-acb-micro-118-36x45-th-800mr075-black-160-6747-p-1620678.html

That’s great. Thanks very much.

2 Wheels Good

Looking for some opinions/advice, I've a Wilier Cento1SR (old setup below) and am in the process of swapping out the handlebars. I've the brakes set up with the left to the back, I’m just wondering if there's any proper way to cable it as the frame design is right to the back?
I'm just trying not to have frame rub from the cable. I'll be heat shrinking the cable/di2 wire once I've it cut a bit as the new handlebars run the cables internally. Any advice much appreciated