the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CianRyan

Nearly 30 years old but I'm desperate.

New Tiagra 10 speed could be a go of my wheel/rear mech would take a 10 speed cassette but honestly I'm clueless and it's not a good feeling. :pac:

Edit: Wheels are 2013 Ksyrium Equip S and the rear derailleur is a 2006 model 105.

Effects

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I don't have a bike stand and don't really fancy taking the rear wheel off.

It's easier with the wheel on anyway. You don't need to run the chain in the direction that moves the wheels. But it needs to travel in a certain direction according to the cleaner.
But as posted above, those Park Tool videos are always really good.

ednwireland

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

fairy liquid contains salt - i wouldn't use near a bike (or my car !)

07Lapierre

ednwireland wrote: »

fairy liquid contains salt - i wouldn't use near a bike (or my car !)

Its kind to your hands though

Mundo7976

New bike day, lots of new to me components. Am capable of tinkering around, but will have plenty of questions for ye.

First up, theres 700 x 28c tyres on the wheels() can I change them for my 35c that im used to?

Type 17

The rims should be fine if they already have 28's, but you need to have enough clearance in the (rim brakes) and the frame and forks.

PS: Try the 28's, there isn't much difference...

8valve

32s are also an option, if you don't have the clearance for 35s, as Type17 mentioned.

Mundo7976

Thanks folks. Theres good clearance. Think ill do a trial by error!

jap gt

Few newbie questions, I bought a bike today second hand, a lapierre, it came with 25-622 tyres, now I'm a big man (hopefully cycling will reduce this) I'm looking for a steer towards a better suited tyre thinking maybe 28-32, also if I change the tyre must I change the tube as well It says 25-32 on the tube

CantGetNoSleep

No should be fine - main issue is more likely to be frame clearance

iamtony

http://<img src="https://uploadimage.org/images/2021/03/17/20210317_192933.jpg&quot; alt="20210317 192933" border="0">

Type 17

iamtony

Type 17 wrote: »

Oh thanks I got distracted haha thought I deleted and was going to try again.

Anyway my son has one of those fiido D1 EBikes(I know) and the pads are gone on the rear. I'm trying to order some and the ones I see online just seem to be little magnetic discs which is fine to fit the inside pad on the piston but the outside pad seems to be built into the adjuster. Anyone know if I'm right?

wheelo01

iamtony wrote: »

Oh thanks I got distracted haha thought I deleted and was going to try again.

Anyway my son has one of those fiido D1 EBikes(I know) and the pads are gone on the rear. I'm trying to order some and the ones I see online just seem to be little magnetic discs which is fine to fit the inside pad on the piston but the outside pad seems to be built into the adjuster. Anyone know if I'm right?

My nephew has the D2 version, and I ordered and have received the discs. Like yourself, I opened the inside side to find the magnetic disc there , but couldn't see the way to get to the outside disc, I, like yourself presume I have to take off the adjuster (as it's the only other bolt available) but haven't done it as I can only open the front, not the rear (which is what needs changing)

The discs when they arrive, are identical, so I presume there is a magnet in the far side too.

By the way, I ordered extra discs, and if you are Dublin based, I'm sure he'll sell you a set rather than waiting 4/5 weeks from fiido, or pay 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

These seem to operate on the basis of one pad being stationary, and the other moves against the disc, which then moves the disc against the stationary one.

My problem with the back one is that I cannot open the lock nut that allows me to get the part you have pictured off, it is only 2.5(I think) and i am afraid of either ringing the Allen key bolt, or bending the Allen key - any suggestions?
I took photos on the phone, I'll add them tomorrow. He uses the bike to get to work daily, so dont have access to it all the time.

By the way, I ordered extra pads, so if you are Dublin based, I'm sure hed sell a set rather than having yo wait 4/5 weeks from fiido, or paying 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

iamtony

wheelo01 wrote: »

My nephew has the D2 version, and I ordered and have received the discs. Like yourself, I opened the inside side to find the magnetic disc there , but couldn't see the way to get to the outside disc, I, like yourself presume I have to take off the adjuster (as it's the only other bolt available) but haven't done it as I can only open the front, not the rear (which is what needs changing)

The discs when they arrive, are identical, so I presume there is a magnet in the far side too.

By the way, I ordered extra discs, and if you are Dublin based, I'm sure he'll sell you a set rather than waiting 4/5 weeks from fiido, or pay 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

These seem to operate on the basis of one pad being stationary, and the other moves against the disc, which then moves the disc against the stationary one.

My problem with the back one is that I cannot open the lock nut that allows me to get the part you have pictured off, it is only 2.5(I think) and i am afraid of either ringing the Allen key bolt, or bending the Allen key - any suggestions?
I took photos on the phone, I'll add them tomorrow. He uses the bike to get to work daily, so dont have access to it all the time.

By the way, I ordered extra pads, so if you are Dublin based, I'm sure hed sell a set rather than having yo wait 4/5 weeks from fiido, or paying 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

Yes exact same single piston set up and you have to adjust the stationary one every few weeks. I took the front one out which has loads of meat left on it but doesn't look like the pad comes off the adjuster, maybe it just looks that way.
From the picture above you it doesn't look like a magnet either. And there's still a small amount of the abrasive material left on one side of it. Searching brake pad on the fiido site doesn't return any results funny enough.
Thanks for the offer. If I need it I may take you up on it but if its just the small magnetic discs they are widely available and cheap.
On my search I did see the whole brake caliper can be upgraded to a hydraulic caliper which was about the same price as your pads!
Thought this would of been a question I'd have an answer to in minutes on here&#55358;&#56631;

Oh, forgot to mention yes it is 2.5mm but mine came out easily. Id try just opening the adjuster if it moves at all through the spokes of the wheel, the inner part of that grub screw is nylon so shouldn't do any damage.

wheelo01

No, theres no movement in it at all through the spokes, which is frustrating.
There doesn't seem to be too many in this parish with any experience of them, and YouTube has no "repair videos" yet.

iamtony

wheelo01 wrote: »

No, theres no movement in it at all through the spokes, which is frustrating.
There doesn't seem to be too many in this parish with any experience of them, and YouTube has no "repair videos" yet.

I'm scouring you tube for a video on the pad replacement procedure and I can't find one, it's shocking actually seeing how popular they are. All the videos saying brake change are about upgrading.
I'd say your best bet to loosen the grub screw is to try get a bit of penetrating oil on it without getting it on any thing else obviously and then just go for it. Have you got decent T bar style Allen keys?

wheelo01

I've a fairly decent set, but not T-bar style, I might get a mechanic in work have a go at it.

Consey

Using Trek Alu (1.2) Bike permanently attached to direct drive turbo. Worked fine for a long time, except now can't get front derailleur to move onto small ring.

No more Alpe d'Zwift for me. When I click the Sora changer, the cable goes slack, the FD moves a little but not enough to change the gear.

I'm guessing that accumulated perspiration has clogged up the FD. I tried oiling and lubing same. No good.

Any other suggestions please? I'm terrible at sorting out gear problems....as well as most mechanical probs....

07Lapierre

Consey wrote: »

Using Trek Alu (1.2) Bike permanently attached to direct drive turbo. Worked fine for a long time, except now can't get front derailleur to move onto small ring.

No more Alpe d'Zwift for me. When I click the Sora changer, the cable goes slack, the FD moves a little but not enough to change the gear.

I'm guessing that accumulated perspiration has clogged up the FD. I tried oiling and lubing same. No good.

Any other suggestions please? I'm terrible at sorting out gear problems....as well as most mechanical probs....

Disconnect the cable and move the derailleur by hand. If it moves ok, the issue is with the cable. It's possible the cable is frayed up at the shifter. That means the cable can move the derailleur up onto the big chainring, but won't allow it down onto the small chainring.

brownian

(apologies if this appears odd - for some reason boards is not formatting correctly for me today)...

Anyway - I'm putting a new Shimano Tourney 6/7 speed rear derailleur on a Giant MTB of my nephew's. The biggest cog on his cassette is 'extra size', and a lot bigger than the second-gear one.
The derailleur sits v close to this cog, so that the chain is essentially pinched between them, making a nasty rumbling noise. I can't see how to get the derailleur to sit 'higher' so that there's more a gap between it and the cogs.
The RD only has 2 adjustment screws and a barrel adjuster, none of which seem to influence the problem. Changing into a higher or lower chainring at the front (thus effectively shortening/lengthening the chain) has no effect.

Any ideas? Thank you!

Plastik

There's no B-screw adjustment?

brownian

....sorry, there is also a screw at the back of the RD, that I think is the 'B tension' screw. I thought this would be what I needed but even fully screwed in, the problem persists.

Type 17

What was the old derailleur model?

Is the new one a Tourney TZ or the other ones without a B-adjustment screw?

Edit: sounds like the TZ, then. Is the chain the correct length? Is the jockey eheel cage the longer type?

brownian

I'm pretty sure both the old and the new are Shimano Tourney RD-TY500. It was almost impossible to read on the old old (black plastic, ancient), but the RD design, with a built-in pulley, was pretty distinctive.

brownian

...this one https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY500-SGS.html

There's a lot of Tourney RDs on https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney.html, but only one with that odd pulley

Type 17

That RD should work fine with the Mega-range freewheel - chain length issue?

Maybe take a pic of the whole drivetrain from the side?

brownian

If the chain was too long, wouldn't moving into a bigger chainring counter-act that?

I'll see about a picture, and come back. Thank you, all!

Type 17

If the top jockey wheel is hitting the biggest sprocket, I was thinking that chain might be too short.

brownian

Weird result - I was doing all this with the bike upside down on a chest freezer (aka worktop). Once the bike was turned the right way up, the RD dropped away a little bit from the sprockets, and the problem went away!

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks - much appreciated.