soild fuel stove advise

Yorky · 25-11-2009 4:26pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

keep your eye out for those cheap chainsaws from lidl. (and buy the proper PPE) I have been using one for over a year now. Will pay for itself . But you must season the wood either somewhere warm and dry for 6 months or out side in a shed for a year. . It also needs spliting. Quite a project but somewhat enjoyable.

anything less than these times will dirty up your flu with tar.

There are always fallen trees around the country during the winter months. I found the old dead ones covered in Ivy dry really quick as the ivy shields out the wet weather.

Hi, do you mean the electric or engine powered one?

tommy_boy · 27-11-2009 1:35pm

Guys,

I have a problem:

I'm replacing an old solid fuel Aga with a Nestor Martin RH 33 multi fuel stove. Had the chimney swept and is apparently fine to install without flexi liner. The existing flue is a 5 inch clay pipe up the chimney whcih we ran the aga through for 15 years without incidence, so I've been told it shoudl work fine as well with a stove.

I plan on having the stove flued out the rear and directly into the existing 90 degree openign of this pipe, and having the 7 inch stove pipe brought down to the existing 5 inches with an adaptor. I've measured the hearth height etc and the rear pipe of the stove model should line up exactly with the existing flue opening once in place, so no transit for smoke, literally just a 90 degree out the back and straight up.

Does anyone see an issue with this or have another suggestion? I am concerend after reading this thread (and seriosuly, the adivce here should be compiled into a stoves for dummies handbook or something, it's great, so thanks!) that the soot might build up too much and reduce the diameter further. But regular cleaning should help prevent this right?

Also, is goign down from a 7 inch flue on the stove to a 5 inch flue int he chimney a bad idea? I cant afford to have any work done on the chimney flue, so it is stuck with 5 inches....

Any thoguhts are REALLY very much appreciated.

Also anyone know/willing to fit one of these?

Thanks
Tommy_boy

PeteHeat · 27-11-2009 1:45pm

Hi,

My first thoughts are the stove is likely to choke, it may work when everything has heated up provided you are using very dry wood but reducing the flue from 7 to 5 inch is against every regulation and most manufacturers instructions.

.

ttm · 27-11-2009 3:06pm

Euro Heat do there own very good documentation for Flue Systems

Tried online on the page for the Nestor Martin RH 33 and couldn't find any techinal details (dial up speeds here so didn't check every pdf) and the link to the installation/comissioning manual on that stove doesn't seem to be available atm so just give then a call and ask if the flue is suitable.

tommy_boy · 27-11-2009 4:03pm

Thanks guys,
I have seen Euroheat's site - very impressive and very informative.

My understanding from it is that reducing the flue down to the 5 inches which the pipe in the chimney is from the 6 inches from the stove (sorry, my bad, said 7 earlier) shoudlnt be too much of a problem, and simply done with an adaptor..... ANY THOUGHTS?

Also, I think someone said this is ok, as the smoke has a smaller area to travel in and travels faster up the chimney this way. I can understand if I was just fluing into an open chimney then there would be too much space and the smoke (and soot) would gather.

I'm also going on experience from the previous AGA which was in situ burning through the anthracite for years. It worked fine and didnt smoke unless you were using green wood in it.

ALSO - I have just been quoted approx €850 for the installation. Is this a little excessive???? I'm giving serious consideration to installing it myself at this point and at that price. I appreciate the stove is expensive, but I am happy to spend good money on a well built efficient stove which is very controllable. The stove is costing about 1900 itself, so I find 850 installation a bit of a rip to be honest. Am I being too ahrd here? I would almost expect installation and INCLUDING flex flu lining the whole way up for that price. But it is literally a simple connection.

All thoguhts, comments, constructive critisism etc very welcome please!

Thanks
Tommy_boy

godskitchen · 27-11-2009 5:59pm

Hello all, just about to buy a stove myself, I am limited to either the Stanley Oisin or the Stanley Oscar due to size.

I have a few questions if anyone can help, the Oisin seems to have a very small firebox, how often are you having to fill the unit and how big of a log are you putting in?

The second question is about the Oscar, no one seems to give a price on the unit, does anyone know what the price is and does anyone have an Oscar/know someone with one?

Cheers guys.

ttm · 27-11-2009 6:42pm

godskitchen wrote: »

Hello all, just about to buy a stove myself, I am limited to either the Stanley Oisin or the Stanley Oscar due to size.

I have a few questions if anyone can help, the Oisin seems to have a very small firebox, how often are you having to fill the unit and how big of a log are you putting in?

The second question is about the Oscar, no one seems to give a price on the unit, does anyone know what the price is and does anyone have an Oscar/know someone with one?

Cheers guys.

Never heard of the Oscar, must be a new one, hence no price

If for size all you need is the Oisin then don't get a bigger stove, its very easy to put a large stove in a small room and find you can't use the room and the stove at the same time

. The Oisin will take a couple or more std bought logs no problem and will do a good couple of hours on full heat if you fill it up, but how often do you fill it is one of those how long is a piece of string questions and has more variables like the quality of the fuel and how much heat you want out of it.

Edit> the Waterford Stanley Oscar a Oisin with a bigger output.

ttm · 27-11-2009 7:01pm

tommy_boy wrote: »

Thanks guys,
I have seen Euroheat's site - very impressive and very informative.

My understanding from it is that reducing the flue down to the 5 inches which the pipe in the chimney is from the 6 inches from the stove (sorry, my bad, said 7 earlier) shoudlnt be too much of a problem, and simply done with an adaptor..... ANY THOUGHTS?

Also, I think someone said this is ok, as the smoke has a smaller area to travel in and travels faster up the chimney this way. I can understand if I was just fluing into an open chimney then there would be too much space and the smoke (and soot) would gather.

I'm also going on experience from the previous AGA which was in situ burning through the anthracite for years. It worked fine and didnt smoke unless you were using green wood in it.

ALSO - I have just been quoted approx €850 for the installation. Is this a little excessive???? I'm giving serious consideration to installing it myself at this point and at that price. I appreciate the stove is expensive, but I am happy to spend good money on a well built efficient stove which is very controllable. The stove is costing about 1900 itself, so I find 850 installation a bit of a rip to be honest. Am I being too ahrd here? I would almost expect installation and INCLUDING flex flu lining the whole way up for that price. But it is literally a simple connection.

All thoguhts, comments, constructive critisism etc very welcome please!

Thanks
Tommy_boy

Can't really say about cost of installation, but as your not having it lined it sounds OTT. Get some more quotes a friend who is having a house built is getting quotes in for all work that vary by as much as 300% and in some cases 500% so I know there are plently of trades that are quoting as if they don't want any work.

The flue size goes on the stove output and I really can't see an 8kW stove needing more than a 5inch flue, our 10kW cooker only has a 5inch flue and runs fine.

godskitchen · 27-11-2009 10:23pm

ttm wrote: »

Never heard of the Oscar, must be a new one, hence no price

If for size all you need is the Oisin then don't get a bigger stove, its very easy to put a large stove in a small room and find you can't use the room and the stove at the same time . The Oisin will take a couple or more std bought logs no problem and will do a good couple of hours on full heat if you fill it up, but how often do you fill it is one of those how long is a piece of string questions and has more variables like the quality of the fuel and how much heat you want out of it.

Edit> the Waterford Stanley Oscar a Oisin with a bigger output.

Cheers buddy,

Yes I think the Oscar is relatively new, it seems to fit in-between the Oisin and the Tara in terms of both size and output.

I will be burning my own timber, so I will be cutting it myself and as such will cut it accordingly. My only 'burning question' with the Oisin would be how often I have to fill it. I know it is dependent on a lot of things. I guess what I want to know is will it do an overnight burn with coal?

I am also finding it hard to get solid numbers for the distances needed from back wall and side walls for any model......... The Oscar would be a pretty tight fit at the sides.

The only reason I would get a bigger burner such as the Tara would be so I could leave it to burn over night. The output of the Oisin is more than enough for the room I intend to use it in.

ttm · 27-11-2009 11:23pm

godskitchen wrote: »

Cheers buddy,

Yes I think the Oscar is relatively new, it seems to fit in-between the Oisin and the Tara in terms of both size and output.

I will be burning my own timber, so I will be cutting it myself and as such will cut it accordingly. My only 'burning question' with the Oisin would be how often I have to fill it. I know it is dependent on a lot of things. I guess what I want to know is will it do an overnight burn with coal?

I am also finding it hard to get solid numbers for the distances needed from back wall and side walls for any model......... The Oscar would be a pretty tight fit at the sides.

The only reason I would get a bigger burner such as the Tara would be so I could leave it to burn over night. The output of the Oisin is more than enough for the room I intend to use it in.

Most stoves I've ever used will do an overnight burn on coal (or wood) some are better than others but it does also mean you need to be sweeping the chimney more often. When I had an Oisin in a large room (it was too small for the room) I have to admit I seemed to be throwing wood on it but I was only using up old construction timber in very thin sections (all I had at the time), our neighbor has an Oisin that is the right size for the room and they find it perfect and no trouble at all. At under 500euro (450 atm at gings.ie) the Oisin isn't a bad price if its the right size? I put in a free stove once (a wonderful old side fill forester stove) that I had no idea of the output and you really couldn't use the room and the stove at the same time it made the room so hot. So my expereince is too small a stove your always filling and too big might not get used.

If you check the online manuals for the stoves I think they all quote similar distances away from combustibale surfaces so its not that difficult to work out if there's no Oscar maual yet. OMG just checked and the Oscar manual is here not so many years ago when I complained to Stanley that they didn't have their manuals online I was told it was company policy to prevent the competion having easy access to them :rolleyes:. Anyway says 420mm to brickwork at back and seems to say 395mm to projecting NON combustable surfaces at the side, good advice but if you are using one in an old fireplace whats the gap going to be at the back corners? If you are fitting it in with a tight gap at the sides the figures don't add up.

godskitchen · 27-11-2009 11:50pm

ttm wrote: »

Most stoves I've ever used will do an overnight burn on coal (or wood) some are better than others but it does also mean you need to be sweeping the chimney more often. When I had an Oisin in a large room (it was too small for the room) I have to admit I seemed to be throwing wood on it but I was only using up old construction timber in very thin sections (all I had at the time), our neighbor has an Oisin that is the right size for the room and they find it perfect and no trouble at all. At under 500euro (450 atm at gings.ie) the Oisin isn't a bad price if its the right size? I put in a free stove once (a wonderful old side fill forester stove) that I had no idea of the output and you really couldn't use the room and the stove at the same time it made the room so hot. So my expereince is too small a stove your always filling and too big might not get used.

If you check the online manuals for the stoves I think they all quote similar distances away from combustibale surfaces so its not that difficult to work out if there's no Oscar maual yet. OMG just checked and the Oscar manual is here not so many years ago when I complained to Stanley that they didn't have their manuals online I was told it was company policy to prevent the competion having easy access to them :rolleyes:. Anyway says 420mm to brickwork at back and seems to say 395mm to projecting NON combustable surfaces at the side, good advice but if you are using one in an old fireplace whats the gap going to be at the back corners? If you are fitting it in with a tight gap at the sides the figures don't add up.

Thanks again, you did well to find that manual!

I will not have the amount of clearance from the sides, it does say however the distance from combustible materials, I will be tiling the entire surround of the fireplace and behind that will of course be blocks.......

Will I be ok or will I melt the universe?

ttm · 28-11-2009 11:43am

godskitchen wrote: »

Thanks again, you did well to find that manual!

I will not have the amount of clearance from the sides, it does say however the distance from combustible materials, I will be tiling the entire surround of the fireplace and behind that will of course be blocks.......

Will I be ok or will I melt the universe?

I have to say I think the Stanley manuals are rather anbiguous? If you've read them down through the ages you'll notice how they are cut and paste one from another (when they moved I had one manual with two address where they'd forgot to change the old one :rolleyes:) and if your read say the Oisin Manual it states "Sold trim,which extends less than 2" from the face of the fireplace Brickwall minimum clearance 355mm" for the Oscar thats 395mm. The ambiguity is that that statement comes under the heading of Clearances to Combustables, but that is backed up further down where it gives a much larger clearence for a combustible alcove.

The first Oisin I had was well back in a deep brick alcove with about 6 inches clearance around the sides and about 15 inches at the top, I didn't install it and I wasn't impressed having it back in an alcove but the Universe is still here. I prefer to do that really bad thing and have a long rear flue pipe with the stove out in the room :eek:. Much of the heat off a stove is radiant heat which just goes into the brick work if the stove is back in an alcove, you get the heat in the end from the brickwork but I think you need to go up a stove size if you do that to allow for that (just an opinon

). I think the 395mm side gap for the Oscar is to allow a good air flow around the stove so the heat comes into the room, don't forget the heat comes out of all 6 sides of a wood burner (may be not the back or bottom) so you need air flow around the sides.

10-10-20 · 28-11-2009 11:58am

My little Oisin is in an oversized red-brick fireplace. It's only 4 inches from the brick work in places, but I find that the brick returns the heat well into the next day. The room it's in will remain warm without the stove being lit until 4 pm. Keeping the vents closed when the fire is out helps this significantly.

gsxr1 · 28-11-2009 11:50pm

back fire brick is showing first signs of cracking. the large plate type one in the rear

Waterford stanley Oisin

Is this a warranty item. Can it be repaired

ttm · 29-11-2009 12:58am

gsxr1 wrote: »

back fire brick is showing first signs of cracking. the large plate type one in the rear

Waterford stanley Oisin

Is this a warranty item. Can it be repaired

If its still in the usual 12month period afaik it is covered under garantee, but its no big deal, its easy to replace the spares are easily got and a split fire brick is like two fire bricks instead of one if you seewhat I mean. tbh they often crack in that stove and provided the two bits don't move apart then it makes no difference to the fire.

lmigsn · 14-12-2009 1:29pm

Any advice appreciated:
I just re-opened an old blocked-up fireplace as I intend to install a stove in the room. The chimney it is not lined and is just a big opening that zig-zags towards the roof. It is an old erd-brick terraced house circa 1900's.
I bought an Oisin Stanley stove and fitted with a cast iron 90 degree bend and a 3ft straight pipe.
What i was thinking is either the following:
a) put the straightpipe up the chimney opening and wrap it with rockwool to prevent any heat loss or downward draft
b) get some fireboard and cut a hole in it for the flue and cement this into the chimney.
The chimney itself appears to be in good shape and was cleaned recently.

10-10-20 · 14-12-2009 1:37pm

That chimney will need a flue liner.
Fitting a pipe in the manner you are suggesting will cause a build-up of soot and cresote on the lip/rockwool and will present a significant fire hazard over time.

It would also not be likely to be approved by your insurance company.

gsxr1 · 14-12-2009 1:47pm

lmigsn wrote: »

Any advice appreciated:
I just re-opened an old blocked-up fireplace as I intend to install a stove in the room. The chimney it is not lined and is just a big opening that zig-zags towards the roof. It is an old erd-brick terraced house circa 1900's.
I bought an Oisin Stanley stove and fitted with a cast iron 90 degree bend and a 3ft straight pipe.
What i was thinking is either the following:
a) put the straightpipe up the chimney opening and wrap it with rockwool to prevent any heat loss or downward draft
b) get some fireboard and cut a hole in it for the flue and cement this into the chimney.
The chimney itself appears to be in good shape and was cleaned recently.

you really should not do it like that.

The 90 bend should not be used as soot will settle on the horizontal part of the bend and would block the flu or catch fire.

then there is the rock wool. Soot will settle on the rock wool that is used to seal the metal and clay linners. this in a short time will be come excessive, and possibly catch fire. I used this method for 1 week before buying an adaptor. On inspection of the rock wool after one week. I found it very dirty with soot and showed signs of singeing.

As for the correct method to use in your circumstance I can not comment as it is not my place. But you should flick through the whole thread. It will give you a good idea on the correct way to go about it. There are a couple of guys on here that know . Peteheat is one.

mattcullen · 16-12-2009 7:49pm

we've installed a stove recently with a flexi liner. We didn't backfill with insulation when we fitted it up and we didnt bother putting in a register plate as I assumed that the purpose of this would be to keep the insulation in place. I did fill the gap between the flexi liner and the pre-existing clay lined flue with rockwool at the bottom just to stop air travelling up. It's all working well...good draw etc. I'm wondering whether I need to put a plate in though. t would be tricky as the pipes are all in place and sealed up etc but If it was important I'm sure i could find a way. what ye think?

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 8:16pm

An therein lies the lesson.

If you buy a "cast iron" stove, you MUST have adequate air movement around the product both sides, back and top. If not the inferior metals used in Chinese manufacture will suffer. Remember these products are normally made from reconstituted scrap metal, which when smelted, weakens it's integrity....hence more spare parts...more profits for Stanley. If you think the parts are covered by warranty...think again. Read the warranties of most stoves and see what they cover and the answer is VERY LITTLE.

You pays your money...you takes your chance guys.

gsxr1 wrote: »

back fire brick is showing first signs of cracking. the large plate type one in the rear

Waterford stanley Oisin

Is this a warranty item. Can it be repaired

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 8:23pm

mattcullen wrote: »

we've installed a stove recently with a flexi liner. We didn't backfill with insulation when we fitted it up and we didnt bother putting in a register plate as I assumed that the purpose of this would be to keep the insulation in place. I did fill the gap between the flexi liner and the pre-existing clay lined flue with rockwool at the bottom just to stop air travelling up. It's all working well...good draw etc. I'm wondering whether I need to put a plate in though. t would be tricky as the pipes are all in place and sealed up etc but If it was important I'm sure i could find a way. what ye think?

Mattcullen, I'm sure we have chatted before.

The reason for the steel sleeve is to maintain flue gas temperatures to ensure the chimney does not clog up too quickly. Clay liners, as you have probably heard from me in these forums, are problematic to say the least. The steel sleeve will come up to a comfortable working temperature very quickly and the insulation would help keep these flue temperatures warm when the stove is slumbering. It really is a simple, no brainer, physics lesson.

The reason for a register plate is to ensure that as the heat rises off your applaince, instead of it rising up into the void of the smoke chamber, it hits the register plate, which should be as close to the top of the opening as possible, to encourage the heat to disperse into the room. The fact that you have plugged the steel with rockwool will allow you to insulate with vermiculite or something similar, and if you can use something like master baord etc to create a register plate, even if it is two halves, then it would be helpful to maximise heat output. The other thing you need to be sure about is that the vitreous enamel pipe is more than 3 times it's diameter from combustibles i.e don't use timber batons to secure the register plate material to. We use angle iron and steel register plate.

Hope this helps

David

ttm · 16-12-2009 8:27pm

sooty_soupy wrote: »

An therein lies the lesson.

If you buy a "cast iron" stove, you MUST have adequate air movement around the product both sides, back and top. If not the inferior metals used in Chinese manufacture will suffer. Remember these products are normally made from reconstituted scrap metal, which when smelted, weakens it's integrity....hence more spare parts...more profits for Stanley. If you think the parts are covered by warranty...think again. Read the warranties of most stoves and see what they cover and the answer is VERY LITTLE.

You pays your money...you takes your chance guys.

Thanks for another sales pitch :rolleyes:

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 8:31pm

tommy_boy wrote: »

Guys,

I have a problem:

I'm replacing an old solid fuel Aga with a Nestor Martin RH 33 multi fuel stove. Had the chimney swept and is apparently fine to install without flexi liner. The existing flue is a 5 inch clay pipe up the chimney whcih we ran the aga through for 15 years without incidence, so I've been told it shoudl work fine as well with a stove.

I plan on having the stove flued out the rear and directly into the existing 90 degree openign of this pipe, and having the 7 inch stove pipe brought down to the existing 5 inches with an adaptor. I've measured the hearth height etc and the rear pipe of the stove model should line up exactly with the existing flue opening once in place, so no transit for smoke, literally just a 90 degree out the back and straight up.

Does anyone see an issue with this or have another suggestion? I am concerend after reading this thread (and seriosuly, the adivce here should be compiled into a stoves for dummies handbook or something, it's great, so thanks!) that the soot might build up too much and reduce the diameter further. But regular cleaning should help prevent this right?

Also, is goign down from a 7 inch flue on the stove to a 5 inch flue int he chimney a bad idea? I cant afford to have any work done on the chimney flue, so it is stuck with 5 inches....

Any thoguhts are REALLY very much appreciated.

Also anyone know/willing to fit one of these?

Thanks
Tommy_boy

Tommy Boy, I would suggest you get a carbon monoxide detector and perhaps start paying a deposit at the graveyard. You should NEVER reduce the diameter of the flue lower than what the manufacturer of the appliance is stipulating. The product you are fitting has been tested to work on the diameter of the outlet, and that is the diameter you should ensure is available throughout the run of the flue.

90 degree bends are not to be used on solid fuel products either. If you have to vent from the rear you need to use a t section, and you can only run horizontally a maximum of 6". Have a check out of our site if you get a chance.

Just be careful mate.

Regards

David

mattcullen · 16-12-2009 8:43pm

sooty_soupy wrote: »

Mattcullen, I'm sure we have chatted before.

The reason for the steel sleeve is to maintain flue gas temperatures to ensure the chimney does not clog up too quickly. Clay liners, as you have probably heard from me in these forums, are problematic to say the least. The steel sleeve will come up to a comfortable working temperature very quickly and the insulation would help keep these flue temperatures warm when the stove is slumbering. It really is a simple, no brainer, physics lesson.

The reason for a register plate is to ensure that as the heat rises off your applaince, instead of it rising up into the void of the smoke chamber, it hits the register plate, which should be as close to the top of the opening as possible, to encourage the heat to disperse into the room. The fact that you have plugged the steel with rockwool will allow you to insulate with vermiculite or something similar, and if you can use something like master baord etc to create a register plate, even if it is two halves, then it would be helpful to maximise heat output. The other thing you need to be sure about is that the vitreous enamel pipe is more than 3 times it's diameter from combustibles i.e don't use timber batons to secure the register plate material to. We use angle iron and steel register plate.

Hope this helps

David

That's very helpfull David. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'll check out the masterboard option . Might be easier for me to retrofit than the steel. The Squirrell is working great. Have only burned wood so far but given how hard it is to source any that's properly seasoned might try out briquettes/coal too. Good to know that the plate may help keep that heat in the room too.

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 8:43pm

ttm wrote: »

Thanks for another sales pitch :rolleyes:

Come Come TTM, that is not a sales pitch. Just a caution to the masses.

I have not mentioned any manufacturers apart from the one that has been quoted as needing spare parts in such a short period of time.;)

There has, for years, been a question over what is best, Cast Iron or Steel, and it will go on for many years to come. Airtight, controllable, efficient steel products with less seams and joints, or cast iron that holds temperature better when the fire has gone out. Steel that is less forgiving if inadvertently over burnt, or cast iron that cracks due to thermal shock. Steel that is plain and simple with clean lines and folds, or cast that is ornate and embellished with features like squirrels, centurions etc. The conversation could go on.

Ironically Morso, a very good Danish stove, have made cast iron stoves for years, but they now have a steel range, so why, you have to ask, do they have both, if the cast iron is so good?...and no we don't sell them.

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:00pm

burger1979 wrote: »

thanks for the reply. i usually burn about 3 briquettes to start off with then after they have been going for about 1/2 an hour throw the wood on. i got 2 bales off my dad as he had just bought 60 for winter so i was just using them to see how it worked out burning them and the heat off them. the wood i bought so far has been from a shop in fonthill retail park and is just bundled up in a bag. it has been kiln dried. I am looking to order a big load of ash in the next week or so. when i put it on the fire it seems to take hold, though thats with using the briquettes. i need to get some kindling but dont want to use news papers or wood that i just found (no where to dry it). what about a shoveful of coal to get things going?
how do you judge if the wood is too green or not? every piece that i have handled is very dry and there is no 'cracking' sound from the fire when the wood is in there?

Buy a damp meter from the internet. Euroheat do a good one and you will be able to determine if the moisture content is lower that 20%.

FORGET KILN DRIED.

Sorry to all the kiln drying companies but I have been reading reports recently at a conference I was at, and it has been determined that our climate is not conducive to keeping wood dry...and there's a surprise to anyone living on the Emerald Isle. If you think about it...the kiln drying process removes the most of the moisture. Once it is bagged, you bring this home and store it in a shed or garage, but the humidity of our climate will soak and absorb a significant amount of the moisture in the air before the wood ever reaches you fire, leaving you with the equivalent of air dried naturally seasoned wood. Although I concur that kiln drying does reduce the content of freshly produced fuel, but you are paying for it.

If you need to built like popeye to lift the wood or it feels dense and heavy and hisses at you when it burns, you are introducing steam and vapour into the chimney....Condensates here we come...that lovely black ooze that comes through walls and down vitreous enamel pipes when the flue isn't lined.

Keep the home fires burning...safely

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:04pm

jack of all wrote: »

I agree with most of the above, except that I don't think it's advised to burn driftwood in your stove- it has a high salt content and theoretically this can cause damage to your stove and flue over time, if you burn enough of it!

Quite right Jack of All. Salt will corrode the components of the flue especially. We have a piece of steel started pipe at the showroom which has eaten through completely through this very reason. But then we live so close to the shore that everyone does it, even if they know better.

mattcullen · 16-12-2009 9:15pm

so is it possible to season wood to an acceptable level in our climate?
I'm planning on buying my wood this winter seasoned or not and stack it so that it will be dry next winter.

ttm · 16-12-2009 9:15pm

sooty_soupy wrote: »

Quite right Jack of All. Salt will corrode the components of the flue especially. We have a piece of steel started pipe at the showroom which has eaten through completely through this very reason. But then we live so close to the shore that everyone does it, even if they know better.

Since when has steel been a suitable material for a flue?

Salt has very little effect on cast iron, at least after 10 or more years in an old Stanley stove and if a free source of timber is going to damage a liner I'm glad I never bothered.

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:16pm

burger1979 wrote: »

fired up the stove last night with kiln dried wood and everything went well. the room is turning cosy with the heat, but i was a little disappointed with the burning of the wood itself. it took a while for the wood to really burn and flames rise out of it, which in turn means that the stove takes longer to heat up. Just wondering how long does it take other peoples stoves to heat up? i know its dependent on constuction, air intakes etc. etc. but i had the primary/secondary air fully open for the whole burn last night and at the start very slow to take off. i have never burned wood before so dont know if this is normal or not. I was thinking of burning a few briquettes first then throwing some wood on the fire to keep it going, what do people think?

Burger, just remember than a brand new stove with a new flue will take a while to come up to temperature before it burns brightly. We get inundated with calls in the Autumn when people are trying to light stoves and fireplaces after a long period of inactivity. You should find it gets easier to come up to temperature when the stove is used often.

soild fuel stove advise

Comments