Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back from 1 to 10+ pages to re-sync the thread and this will then show the latest posts. Thanks, Mike.
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

1…3940424445…128

Comments

  • #2052
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,179 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Type 17 wrote: »
    That hanger looks bent - tell him not to ride it, and to go to his lbs unless the can change it himself.
    I thought it was the derailleur itself but yours makes more sense. Should be easy enough to replace.


  • #2053
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    Thanks folks, Type17, the more I look at it the more I think you're right. I'll ask him for some pictures from the back tomorrow.


  • #2054
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    CramCycle wrote: »
    I thought it was the derailleur itself but yours makes more sense. Should be easy enough to replace.

    I thought so too, didn't even look at the hanger initially


  • #2055
    Thargor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,965 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Why do the freewheels in some bikes make so much noise? A clicking noise like you were spinning a ratcheting wrench around? Whats the reason for it? You'd imagine it adds up to a lot of wasted energy and rolling resistance for no reason.


  • #2056
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Thargor wrote: »
    Why do the freewheels in some bikes make so much noise? A clicking noise like you were spinning a ratcheting wrench around? Whats the reason for it? You'd imagine it adds up to a lot of wasted energy and rolling resistance for no reason.

    It depends on what sort of pawl/drive system they use. The type/thickness of oil/lube will also effect the noise.


  • #2057
    Type 17
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Some carbon frames make the freewheel noise louder too


  • #2058
    saccades
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭saccades


    Thargor wrote: »
    Why do the freewheels in some bikes make so much noise? A clicking noise like you were spinning a ratcheting wrench around? Whats the reason for it? You'd imagine it adds up to a lot of wasted energy and rolling resistance for no reason.

    So people know you bought hope...



    Handy on the trails to let people know you are behind them and no wasted energy.


  • #2059
    tnegun
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Type 17 wrote: »
    What series of 105 RD did you get? - the current model (R7000) is 11-speed only and won't work with 10-speed setups. The RD for the 105 10-speed series (5700) is very hard to get now.
    The symptoms you mention are typical of a mismatch, but other issues can also cause them.

    Just wanted to post back and say you were 100% correct. I sourced a replacement Tigra 4600 and it's shifting perfectly now thanks for the help and advice!!


  • #2060
    rayman1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 191 ✭✭rayman1


    Hi, I have a Cube Attain Race which I use as my winter bike. I would have done about 6,000 km on it over the winter.
    Just wondering should I clean and re grease the headset or would it be ok for another winter? I don't use a front mudguard just a seat post mounted rear one.


  • #2061
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,221 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    it was a wet winter, i'd be inclined to check it and clean it.


  • Advertisement
  • #2062
    two wheels good
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    Thargor wrote: »
    Why do the freewheels in some bikes make so much noise? A clicking noise like you were spinning a ratcheting wrench around? Whats the reason for it? You'd imagine it adds up to a lot of wasted energy and rolling resistance for no reason.

    I often think; new bike, not enough grease applied at assembly.
    I don't think it will sap energy though.


  • #2063
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    One of the hydraulic disc brakes on my bike is problematic and always has been. It has been bled twice and goes back to working well, but within a few weeks it is spongy, pulls the whole way back to the handlebars, and completely ineffective. At the moment it won't even lock the wheel when pressed in fully.

    I'm trying to find a place with a free spot to look at it but wondering if anyone knows what I am doing wrong in the meantime?


  • #2064
    Deano12345
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    One of the hydraulic disc brakes on my bike is problematic and always has been. It has been bled twice and goes back to working well, but within a few weeks it is spongy, pulls the whole way back to the handlebars, and completely ineffective. At the moment it won't even lock the wheel when pressed in fully.

    I'm trying to find a place with a free spot to look at it but wondering if anyone knows what I am doing wrong in the meantime?

    I find that nothing is ever certain in the dark art of bleeding brakes but that sounds like there’s a leak causing air to get into the system slowly, once the brakes are used. Could just be a line or fitting isn’t quite tight enough or faulty possibly, maybe a o-ring somewhere. The fact that one brake is fine tells me it’s not down to something you are doing.

    You’ve also reminded me to re bleed my rear brake :D


  • #2065
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Deano12345 wrote: »
    I find that nothing is ever certain in the dark art of bleeding brakes but that sounds like there’s a leak causing air to get into the system slowly, once the brakes are used. Could just be a line or fitting isn’t quite tight enough or faulty possibly, maybe a o-ring somewhere. The fact that one brake is fine tells me it’s not down to something you are doing.

    You’ve also reminded me to re bleed my rear brake :D

    Thanks - I had in my head a leak in the cable for some reason but you must be right with a connector or fitting somewhere. Did a mini bleed (bleeding through the shifter only) tonight which seems to have worked well for now & will get me through tomorrow's group ride but will get it back to a shop whenever I find one that will take it


  • #2066
    two wheels good
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    One of the hydraulic disc brakes on my bike is problematic and always has been. It has been bled twice and goes back to working well, but within a few weeks it is spongy, pulls the whole way back to the handlebars, and completely ineffective. At the moment it won't even lock the wheel when pressed in fully.

    I'm trying to find a place with a free spot to look at it but wondering if anyone knows what I am doing wrong in the meantime?

    Maybe some dirt in a seal? But if there an air leak leak I'd expect to see some dampness.
    The obvious stuff: Check the banjo connections. Check push rod seal on the master cyl. Remove the lever if necessary. Remove the pads to check the piston seals.
    A clean and some brake grease on piston sides might help. Check the bleed nipple . Was it over-tightened in the past?
    Was the correct brake fluid used? Is the level too low?


  • #2067
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,179 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I know little about hydraulic bike brakes, any recommended brands of fluid or pads?


  • #2068
    emc2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,357 ✭✭✭emc2


    Hi,

    Hoping for a pointer in the right direction, I want to give a bike a facelift with a new coat of paint. Any advice on what type and where I could get it?

    Thanks


  • #2069
    Plastik
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭Plastik


    Hear good things about spray.bike


  • #2070
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,221 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    it's not an easy thing to do well without a complete stripdown of the bike, is that something you've got any experience of?


  • Advertisement
  • #2071
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    it's not an easy thing to do well without a complete stripdown of the bike, is that something you've got any experience of?

    Honestly, stripping and rebuilding a bike is not that big a deal. Take your time, bag and label stuff as it comes off, and take plenty of pictures. It ain't rocket surgery :D


  • #2072
    two wheels good
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    CramCycle wrote: »
    I know little about hydraulic bike brakes, any recommended brands of fluid or pads?

    Fluid: The brand isn't critical. It's the type e.g. DOT4, DOT5, mineral. Often stamped on the m-cyl cover.
    Pads: No idea. A reputable brand?


  • #2073
    woody33
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    Ok, if I may: I have one of those chain cleaning baths you use with the chain still on, the question is which to put in it, White Spirit or Heating oil/Kerosene? The chain is not too dirty at all, but I changing from Tri-Flow to Weld-Tite TF2/Halfords All Weather with Teflon. Or maybe I should just wipe the chain and add one lube on top of the other? (My unending research informs me Tri-Flow is actually a solvent oil. (Who knew, live and learn, some people are very gullible, etc.). Thanks for any words of wisdom, W.


  • #2074
    crosstownk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    Clean the chain first with a degreaser. Otherwise the existing dirt mixed with the new oil will turn into a grinding paste and do further damage.

    Petrol, diesel, etc will do a good job but are harmful to both you and the environment so if possible use an environmentally friendly degreaser. Your local hardware should have something suitable.
    Untitled Image




  • #2075
    dahat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Annoying squeak on the bike with the below done so far.

    New BB
    New cleats
    Front skewer greased
    Chainring bolts checked

    All that's left is headset,yeah? It feels fine but what else could be the cause?

    Also for a complete noob is it a handy job to grease it? Bike is a 2016 tcr.


  • #2076
    Tony04
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    dahat wrote: »
    Annoying squeak on the bike with the below done so far.

    New BB
    New cleats
    Front skewer greased
    Chainring bolts checked

    All that's left is headset,yeah? It feels fine but what else could be the cause?

    Also for a complete noob is it a handy job to grease it? Bike is a 2016 tcr.

    Seatpost, saddle and I've even had seatpost clamps creak .

    Wheel axles, is their lateral play?

    Have you ever replaced the headset bearings before, it might be worth checking, all you need is a torque wrench.


  • Advertisement
  • #2077
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,179 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    When does it creak, is it random, at a certain point of the pedal stroke, in or out of the saddle, high power or all the time?


  • #2078
    crosstownk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I’d an annoying creak/squeak that turned out to be a slightly loose bottle cage.
    Untitled Image




  • #2079
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    dahat wrote: »
    Annoying squeak on the bike with the below done so far.

    New BB
    New cleats
    Front skewer greased
    Chainring bolts checked

    All that's left is headset,yeah? It feels fine but what else could be the cause?

    Also for a complete noob is it a handy job to grease it? Bike is a 2016 tcr.

    Probably not the BB, or your cleats, or the front skewer or chainring bolts. It could be the rear skewer, the wheels, the pedals, the saddle, the handlebar stem or the seat post.

    1: remove your wheels, put a drop of grease on your finger and apply a bit to the frame dropouts and fork drop outs. Refit wheels and go for test ride.
    2: remove your pedals, apply some grease to the treads, refit the pedals and go for a test ride.
    3: remove the seat post, apply some grease, refit and go for a test ride.
    4: carry out a full tightness test on all bolts. Go for a test ride.
    5: if none of the above solves the problem, buy a new bike! :)


  • #2080
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    3: remove the seat post, apply some grease, refit and go for a test ride.

    Never ever do that, especially on a carbon frame. Alu will tollerate a bit more of abuse, but is not immune either.

    Seat post is intended to stay in place, not to move. You don't want to reallign it every ride. Lubrication reduces fricion - to stay put the seat post needs to be secured with higher clamping force applied to the seat tube. This simply is a receipe for a damaged frame.


  • #2081
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,804 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    grogi wrote: »
    Never ever do that, especially on a carbon frame. Alu will tollerate a bit more of abuse, but is not immune either.

    Seat post is intended to stay in place, not to move. You don't want to reallign it every ride. Lubrication reduces fricion - to stay put the seat post needs to be secured with higher clamping force applied to the seat tube. This simply is a receipe for a damaged frame.

    I don't know about carbon frames, as I've never owned one, but it's a standard thing to lightly grease the seat post so it doesn't fuse with the frame for steel. Every bike maintenance book I have says to do this. I have had a seat post fuse with a frame before I knew about this (the bike shop was able to separate them using great force), and I have a friend who not only had a seat post fuse with his frame, but pedal spindles fuse with the cranks (the bike shop couldn't separate any of them).

    I've seen car wheels fuse with the axle as well. Apparently applying copper grease is a standard way to avoid this.


  • Advertisement
  • #2082
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,221 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I don't know about carbon frames, as I've never owned one
    carbon paste is generally used for carbon frames.

    but yes, grease your seat post is absolutely standard advice, especially for metal on metal. it helps prevent galvanic corrosion for alu/steel combinations.


  • #2083
    dahat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Went at the headset at 11pm.....

    Bike in LBS at 8am......

    Best i stay away from these things!!!!


  • #2084
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    dahat wrote: »
    Went at the headset at 11pm.....

    Bike in LBS at 8am......

    Best i stay away from these things!!!!

    No, you should still be struggling with it today, cursing and throwing tools in the corner


  • #2085
    dahat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    cletus wrote: »
    No, you should still be struggling with it today, cursing and throwing tools in the corner

    That happened until 12.20 then gave up.

    Someday i'll try again but allow more time instead of needing the bike for 9 am Saturday.


  • #2086
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,179 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    dahat wrote: »
    That happened until 12.20 then gave up.

    Someday i'll try again but allow more time instead of needing the bike for 9 am Saturday.

    Always a risky choice, if you need it the next day, don't change it unless the bike won't work without it. I've said it here before but the last time I tried that I got really drunk and set a Dynamo Hub wheel on fire inside the house well after midnight.


  • #2087
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Always a risky choice, if you need it the next day, don't change it unless the bike won't work without it. I've said it here before but the last time I tried that I got really drunk and set a Dynamo Hub wheel on fire inside the house well after midnight.

    That sounds like a story worth telling


  • #2088
    dahat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Always a risky choice, if you need it the next day, don't change it unless the bike won't work without it. I've said it here before but the last time I tried that I got really drunk and set a Dynamo Hub wheel on fire inside the house well after midnight.

    Christ I've not done anything to match that.

    I'll not be risking it again for sure,I'm only blessed my lbs is quite tolerant of my failed attempts at bike maintenance.


  • #2089
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    grogi wrote: »
    Never ever do that, especially on a carbon frame. Alu will tollerate a bit more of abuse, but is not immune either.

    Seat post is intended to stay in place, not to move. You don't want to reallign it every ride. Lubrication reduces fricion - to stay put the seat post needs to be secured with higher clamping force applied to the seat tube. This simply is a receipe for a damaged frame.

    Disagree..If you have an alu frame always apply grease to your seatpost.
    If you have a carbon frame, ideally apply carbon paste or a small bit of grease. you should never insert a seatpost without applying grease or carbon paste.


  • #2090
    Gasco
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 336 ✭✭Gasco


    Gasco wrote: »
    So, replaced the freehub body on Pave 28 wheel, easy job. But there is a lot of freehub drag, as in it takes effort to get the freehub moving. Took off the new one and reinstalled the old, same thing. Have not used the wheels in a while so cannot remember if this was the case when they were on the bike.

    Scratching my head on this - before I tighten the hub cap it spins fine but once these are tightened up then not much moving. Am I over tightening these? they were pretty tight prior to removal.

    Did I lose a spacer between the freehub body and hub shell? Looking at the novotec manual, there only appears to be the large metal spacer that fits over the axle - which is in place.

    Are the hub bearings the problem? They are cartridge but I presume once the end caps are tightened there is some compression.

    Or is this a thing with these hubs / wheels???

    Lockdown is causing me to obsess about these things...

    Finally figured this out - when these wheels were built they installed two water seals between the freehub and hub body. Removed one, refitted the remaining one - spinning away nicely.


  • #2091
    tnegun
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
    The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?


  • Advertisement
  • #2092
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    tnegun wrote: »
    Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
    The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?


    If it was me, I would...but that's me


  • #2093
    CormacH94
    Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    tnegun wrote: »
    Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
    The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?


    Great time to start doing your own bike maintenance imo


    I did a complete overhaul on my bike a few weeks ago, new BB, chain, gear/brake cables, bartape - the works, have only ever done brake cables and small bits before, did it with zero hassle, great chance to deep clean the bike too. Once you have the right tools you're laughing.



    The FSA BB is threaded right? It's as easy as putting a screw in.



    Park Tool youtube is good to have on hand if you have any little doubts as to what you should be doing, good to look at them beforehand too if you need to make a shopping list.


  • #2094
    caviardreams
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,614 ✭✭✭caviardreams


    Hi guys - apologies in advance for the stupid Q! :o:o

    I got a road bike recently and am new to cycling after a loooooong gap (15 years!) Getting on ok with it but I find the front steering incredibly twitchy and seems to have a mind of its own :eek:

    So much so, that I find it hard to cycle with one hand and steer straight (especially downhill) as a result and the thoughts of no hands seems impossible! I see other people doing this though with ease and also walking along and pushing the bike by just holding the saddle - when I try this the front of the bike turns all over the place, and I can't even push it a metre by just holding the saddle.

    Is this just normal on road bikes or is the front of my bike too twitchy/wobbly? Should it be a bit stiffer? It just feels impossible to control and keep straight. Is there any way I can fix this or make it a bit less responsive?


  • #2095
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,221 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    may just be a case of getting used to it, road bikes can have lighter steering than other bikes. it's a new bike, though? what make/model?


  • #2096
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭cletus


    If you were used to a flat handlebar before, they can feel more stable because they're wider. You'll get Yousef to the drop bars pretty quickly.

    As regards the pushing by the saddle, that's just practice


  • #2097
    caviardreams
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,614 ✭✭✭caviardreams


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    may just be a case of getting used to it, road bikes can have lighter steering than other bikes. it's a new bike, though? what make/model?

    Thanks guys

    It's a Giant (Liv) Avail 2 2015 size medium - sorry I worded that badly by saying I got it recently - I got it 4 years ago but never really used it (mainly because of the twitchiness) so it feels brand new in my head :o it ended up indoors for the last 4 years after a few weeks of trying it and I only took it out again a few weeks ago and got it serviced. Trying to stick with it this time but it's not getting any easier steering wise and I've been out for an hour's cycle 9 or 10 times now. It feels best / most stable on the hoods but still very twitchy/slippy.

    https://www.liv-cycling.com/ie/avail-2-2015


  • #2098
    crosstownk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    tnegun wrote: »
    Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think.
    I've had a similar noise in the past that I suspected was the BB - every revolution made me suspect the BB. It turned out to be the bottle cage bolts loose on the down tube. A quick nip and problem solved. Worth a go before going down the BB route.
    Untitled Image




  • #2099
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    tnegun wrote: »
    Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
    The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?

    Sounds like the BB alright.. I had a similar issue a few weeks ago..

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058072444

    Easy enough to DIY this repair.

    Park tools how to video:

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=84Ut53i17iQ&list=PLGCTGpvdT04Q5OLMUo0yzTOjLtv7yT47O&index=7&t=0s


    I recommend you get one of these:

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-press-fit-bb-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3/rp-prod142345?gs=1&sku=sku516047&istCompanyId=0f15660a-f13e-4c09-a701-b55d8c3f2e59&istFeedId=21ccdaa5-24f7-4b32-9ec6-ac7081b9b50b&istItemId=iwxrritti&istBid=t&pgrid=55940684341&ptaid=pla-419668116892&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA%2BAll%2BProducts&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%257Cs5L368zBg_dt%257Cpcrid%257C294740729966%257Cpkw%257C%257Cpmt%257C%257Cprd%257C516047IE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Jmbg_ne6QIVGp3VCh1gUQ1rEAQYASABEgKJxPD_BwE


  • #2100
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Anyone know a good intro to Di2 YouTube?

    Picked up my new bike yesterday & took a lot of the shop guy's time with small things I wasn't entirely happy with so didn't have a chance to talk through Di2 with him. Aside from charging it, is there anything else you need to know to get started?


  • Advertisement
  • #2101
    Type 17
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Here’s my reference that I keep in my phone-notes - Di2 is relatively trouble free, so you can easily forget the details.

    Di2 Reference

    Batt check - shift FD & hold:
    Green: 100% to 50%
    Green blink: 50% to 25%
    Red: 25% to <5%
    Red blink: almost 0%

    Trim RD mode:
    Go to 5th gear and then press & hold controller button to enter trim mode
    (tinkle on 4th plus 4x>’s)
    Press & hold to exit

    Double-click to cycle through:
    Manual > Auto1 > Auto2 >


Advertisement