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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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magicbastarder

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

What's the best way to select the optimal great? If my understanding is right and I'm open to being corrected.

generally (and this can vary from person to person) a cadence of about 80RPM is considered the best to balance power and effort. so pedal a little over once a second, using a gear which allows you to comfortably manage it.
if you find yourself straining to maintain that cadence in a particular gear, change to an easier gear.
YMMV, but you'll learn to get a sense of what is most comfortable and sustainable for you.

CramCycle

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

The 3 gears at the pedal are selected based on gradient, 1 for going uphill to get power without necessarily speed, 2 for on the flat, 3 for downhill because it's "easier".

More for speed, ability and comfort than specifically up or down, some like to go slower, some like to go faster and some like to spin at a certain speed, these help with that. Obvious exceptions are steep hills where unless your a pro, your going to be using the little one.

The back gears, 1-7, (derailer ??) are simply increased the faster you go. I'm probably miles off.

Again you just flick between them to find whats comfortable

My late uncle had an unusual gear system on his, it was a little lever on the crossbar that you moved forward or back. I've never seen anything like it before.

Friction shifter, very common years ago, same principle as a normal shifter, you move it a bit, it either tightens or slackens the cable and the derailleur moves.

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

A novice question about gears.

What's the best way to select the optimal great? If my understanding is right and I'm open to being corrected.

The 3 gears at the pedal are selected based on gradient, 1 for going uphill to get power without necessarily speed, 2 for on the flat, 3 for downhill because it's "easier".

The back gears, 1-7, (derailer ??) are simply increased the faster you go. I'm probably miles off.

My late uncle had an unusual gear system on his, it was a little lever on the crossbar that you moved forward or back. I've never seen anything like it before.

magicbastarder

you're clearly putting out too much power.

dahat

Update on my creaking noise / sound.

After headset drama with a new BB the source of the creak has been found this morning. BB had play so needed doing anyway.

The carbon soles on my Northwave shoes are cracked, absolutely sickened & an expensive fix.

Type 17

All new BBs come with the bolts required.

Tony04

Type 17 wrote: »

Older/cheaper stuff was male-threaded with a nut like this (cheaper to make the spindle with external threads), but female-threaded spindle with a bolt is universal now because it tends not to come loose like the nut version. The taper is the same spec, so any square-taper crank that fits one spindle type will also fit the other.

You would have to get a new fixing bolt though?

Type 17

Tony04 wrote: »

...that bb does look weird as crank bolt threading is male rather than female so if you get a new square Taper bb the crank might not necessarily be compatible.

Older/cheaper stuff was male-threaded with a nut like this (cheaper to make the spindle with external threads), but female-threaded spindle with a bolt is universal now because it tends not to come loose like the nut version. The taper is the same spec, so any square-taper crank that fits one spindle type will also fit the other.

seamus

caviardreams wrote: »

Thanks guys

It's a Giant (Liv) Avail 2 2015 size medium - sorry I worded that badly by saying I got it recently - I got it 4 years ago but never really used it (mainly because of the twitchiness) so it feels brand new in my head it ended up indoors for the last 4 years after a few weeks of trying it and I only took it out again a few weeks ago and got it serviced. Trying to stick with it this time but it's not getting any easier steering wise and I've been out for an hour's cycle 9 or 10 times now. It feels best / most stable on the hoods but still very twitchy/slippy.

https://www.liv-cycling.com/ie/avail-2-2015

Few things to check here:

1. Ensure the tyres are properly pumped up. You want them at 80psi minimum if you're light. I expect most riders probably run at 100psi, I run mine at 110.

2. Check to see if the wheels run straight. That is, spin the wheels and look at them from above and from the side. You're looking to see if there's any side-to-side or up-and-down movement. There may be tiny movements, that's OK. But more than a couple of mm in any direction could be enough.

3. Make sure the wheels are sitting in secure and straight. Turn the bike upside-down, loosen the quick release on both wheels and ensure the wheels are sitting right into the drop-outs. Then tighten up the quick release. The levers should be tight enough that you need a bit of effort to open/close them. That is, they shouldn't be so loose that a flick of the finger will open them, nor so tight that you leave a mark on your hand when closing them.

4. Make sure the headset is still smooth:
Stand over the bike, hold the front brake and rock the bike slowly back and forth. If you can feel a "clicking" through the handlebars, then your headset is loose (or the bearings are shot).
Lift the front wheel up and hold the frame between your legs. Turn the handlebars left and right. It should be smooth with no roughness or resistance. Turn the bars to the 1 o'clock position and let go. They should fall naturally to the right. If they stay in that position, your headset might be too tight or seized up.

5. Check the wheel bearings. When in the frame, hold the wheel between your thumb and index finger and gently rock it side-to-side. Movement is normal, wheels are flexible. But it's shouldn't "click" or "thud". If it does, your wheel bearings need a service.

Tony04

cletus wrote: »

Definitely English threaded 68mm or maybe 73mm(unlikely). Although that bb does look weird as crank bolt threading is male rather than female so if you get a new square Taper bb the crank might not necessarily be compatible.

Type 17

Either:

Use the old one (screwing on the lockring from the inside of the cup before screwing it into the frame as you mention), or

Buy the cartridge one - English thread, same spindle-length as the old one (excluding the make threaded sections at the end), and the BB shell on your bike should be 68mm wide, but might be 70mm - check before ordering. These cartridge BBs almost always come with the correct bolts, so no need to order separately. Note that you'll need the correct tool to fit this type (fancier versions are available, but this one is great for occasional use).

loyatemu

I reckon this is what you need, English thread, and whatever length spindle matches the old one. You'll also need crank bolts as the threads on the new bracket are internal rather than external:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-un55-square-taper-bottom-bracket/rp-prod71369

cletus

loyatemu wrote: »

what type of bike is that from?

I replaced a cup and cone style bracket like that with a cartridge style in an old mountain bike I had - just needed to match the size of the hole in the frame. The toughest bit was getting the old bracket out but you've done that.

It's from a mid 80's Muddy Fox.

So, I had a bit of a brainwave. It's only the first 2 and a half threads that are damaged, and it's only the threads after these that were being used to lock down the cup (I presume they were damaged due to being exposed).

I've threaded the lock ring on from the opposite side, up as far as it will go, and (hopefully) clearing the point where it will be locked down once the bearings and spindle are in place

loyatemu

what type of bike is that from?

I replaced a cup and cone style bracket like that with a cartridge style in an old mountain bike I had - just needed to match the size of the hole in the frame and the length of the spindle. The toughest bit was getting the old bracket out but you've done that.

info here: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-and-terminology

cletus

Tony04 wrote: »

Replace it definitely I wouldnt want to risk damaging the frame threads . If its threaded it should be 68mm if a touring/road/city 73mm if a mtb or if its Italian probably 71mm. What cranks do you have?

So, I've attached a picture of the bottom bracket components. It's a loose bearing cup and cone arrangement, with a square tapered spindle. It's all in good nick apart from the first few threads I mentioned

Like I said, if anyone can tell me what I should be looking for, it would be great (or if you have one you don't need, give me a price)

07Lapierre

tnegun wrote: »

Thanks for the advice guys removed the cranks today and re greased. One side of the BB is knackered. It almost fell apart cover the cover on the bearings came away and there is a lot of play in them so it needs to be replaced. It looks like there is no central piece connecting each side of the BB is that normal? Also the shaft on the crank has groves worn in it at each side not awful but noticeable how much is OK before it needs replacing?

We'd need to see photo's of the BB and the Crank arm.

cletus

Tony04 wrote: »

Replace it definitely I wouldnt want to risk damaging the frame threads . If its threaded it should be 68mm if a touring/road/city 73mm if a mtb or if its Italian probably 71mm. What cranks do you have?

Just to be clear, the threads for the frame are fine. It's the threads for the lock ring that are damaged.

It's from an '86 Muddy Fox, so MTB, but don't know what standards would have been used then

I'll take a picture of one of the cranks

Tony04

Replace it definitely I wouldnt want to risk damaging the frame threads . If its threaded it should be 68mm if a touring/road/city 73mm if a mtb or if its Italian probably 71mm. What cranks do you have?

tnegun

tnegun wrote: »

Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?

Thanks for the advice guys removed the cranks today and re greased. One side of the BB is knackered. It almost fell apart cover the cover on the bearings came away and there is a lot of play in them so it needs to be replaced. It looks like there is no central piece connecting each side of the BB is that normal? Also the shaft on the crank has groves worn in it at each side not awful but noticeable how much is OK before it needs replacing?

cletus

Went about re-installing the bottom bracket today. Threads on one of the cups are damaged where the lock ring threads on (I had difficulty getting it off too).

I could probably file it and 'persuade' the ring on, but I'm thinking I should maybe just get a replacement. Thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I'd be looking for.

If anyone can look at the attached image and tell me what I should be googling, I would be eternally grateful

CramCycle

I can't see what your looking at through your window, can you move it left a bit on the table so we can all see it.

CantGetNoSleep

Thanks that is helpful

Type 17

Here’s my reference that I keep in my phone-notes - Di2 is relatively trouble free, so you can easily forget the details.

Di2 Reference

Batt check - shift FD & hold:
Green: 100% to 50%
Green blink: 50% to 25%
Red: 25% to <5%
Red blink: almost 0%

Trim RD mode:
Go to 5th gear and then press & hold controller button to enter trim mode
(tinkle on 4th plus 4x>’s)
Press & hold to exit

Double-click to cycle through:
Manual > Auto1 > Auto2 >

CantGetNoSleep

Anyone know a good intro to Di2 YouTube?

Picked up my new bike yesterday & took a lot of the shop guy's time with small things I wasn't entirely happy with so didn't have a chance to talk through Di2 with him. Aside from charging it, is there anything else you need to know to get started?

07Lapierre

tnegun wrote: »

Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think. Have tightened the chain ring bolts, greased the seat post, tightened the quick release skewers and checked the pedals. I cycled this bike right through the winter and bad weather at the start of the year so suspect the BB lubricant has had it.
The creak is every revolution and the cranks seem stable enough there is a tiny bit of play in the left side though. LBS is booked up for 2/3 weeks its and FSA Omega crank and FSA BB am I mad to try buy the tools to DIY it?

Sounds like the BB alright.. I had a similar issue a few weeks ago..

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058072444

Easy enough to DIY this repair.

Park tools how to video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=84Ut53i17iQ&list=PLGCTGpvdT04Q5OLMUo0yzTOjLtv7yT47O&index=7&t=0s

I recommend you get one of these:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-press-fit-bb-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3/rp-prod142345?gs=1&sku=sku516047&istCompanyId=0f15660a-f13e-4c09-a701-b55d8c3f2e59&istFeedId=21ccdaa5-24f7-4b32-9ec6-ac7081b9b50b&istItemId=iwxrritti&istBid=t&pgrid=55940684341&ptaid=pla-419668116892&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA%2BAll%2BProducts&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%257Cs5L368zBg_dt%257Cpcrid%257C294740729966%257Cpkw%257C%257Cpmt%257C%257Cprd%257C516047IE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Jmbg_ne6QIVGp3VCh1gUQ1rEAQYASABEgKJxPD_BwE

crosstownk

tnegun wrote: »

Think I have a creak from the BB, I've pretty much ruled everything else out I think.

I've had a similar noise in the past that I suspected was the BB - every revolution made me suspect the BB. It turned out to be the bottle cage bolts loose on the down tube. A quick nip and problem solved. Worth a go before going down the BB route.

caviardreams

magicbastarder wrote: »

may just be a case of getting used to it, road bikes can have lighter steering than other bikes. it's a new bike, though? what make/model?

Thanks guys

It's a Giant (Liv) Avail 2 2015 size medium - sorry I worded that badly by saying I got it recently - I got it 4 years ago but never really used it (mainly because of the twitchiness) so it feels brand new in my head

it ended up indoors for the last 4 years after a few weeks of trying it and I only took it out again a few weeks ago and got it serviced. Trying to stick with it this time but it's not getting any easier steering wise and I've been out for an hour's cycle 9 or 10 times now. It feels best / most stable on the hoods but still very twitchy/slippy.

https://www.liv-cycling.com/ie/avail-2-2015

cletus

If you were used to a flat handlebar before, they can feel more stable because they're wider. You'll get Yousef to the drop bars pretty quickly.

As regards the pushing by the saddle, that's just practice

magicbastarder

may just be a case of getting used to it, road bikes can have lighter steering than other bikes. it's a new bike, though? what make/model?

caviardreams

Hi guys - apologies in advance for the stupid Q!

:o

I got a road bike recently and am new to cycling after a loooooong gap (15 years!) Getting on ok with it but I find the front steering incredibly twitchy and seems to have a mind of its own :eek:

So much so, that I find it hard to cycle with one hand and steer straight (especially downhill) as a result and the thoughts of no hands seems impossible! I see other people doing this though with ease and also walking along and pushing the bike by just holding the saddle - when I try this the front of the bike turns all over the place, and I can't even push it a metre by just holding the saddle.

Is this just normal on road bikes or is the front of my bike too twitchy/wobbly? Should it be a bit stiffer? It just feels impossible to control and keep straight. Is there any way I can fix this or make it a bit less responsive?