the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle

padyjoe wrote: »

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

LollipopJimmy

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

Left hand drill bits are ideal for this

cletus

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

magicbastarder

anyone here ever serviced TRP hy-rd disc brakes? is it a straightforward job?

edit; weirdly, i see someone has just posted in the other maintenance thread about a similar issue. on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

cletus

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

I would tend to agree with cheaper tools. The Teng tools I would be happy to use from 6nm up. I tested my 3/8 vs a Snap-On digital torque wrench (Drool) and it was spot on

Alek

on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

Never taken the caliper completely apart, but changed the oil once or twice. Pistons are not moving exactly the same on all 3 that I have, but it improved slightly when I've flushed the whole thing (from outside) with WD-40. It does not give me any functional trouble now so stopped thinking about this......

rayman1

How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings?
Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter?
I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.

Effects

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them

Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?

Cee-Jay-Cee

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?

I use 60mm presta valves on Vittoria latex tubes on 40mm deep carbon clinchers and have approx 30mm of valve showing, I’d say you could be pushing it with 60mm wheels.

silverharp

anything to look out for buying these sealant kits? never had one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Machine-Instant-Bicycle-Puncture-Sealant/dp/B017BMQV02/ref=sr_1_40?crid=15MUHOWX79OA3&keywords=puncture+repair+kits+for+bikes&qid=1556267326&s=gateway&sprefix=puncture%2Caps%2C356&sr=8-40

rayman1

rayman1 wrote: »

How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings?
Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter?
I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.

Any advice on this please?

magicbastarder

I'd like to say once every six months, but I guess once a year. Also depends on how much the bike has been used and in what conditions. It's not really a long job though, I did it recently with one bike and it took less than 15 mins.

Zen0

I’d have to say never. I have one bike which is seven years old with 25,000km on the clock. It gets used year round sometimes in filthy conditions and it’s good so far. I may come to regret my negligence. I tend to be good at bike maintenance generally, but where headsets are concerned I have history. I remember trying to grease the bearings of a threaded headset years ago and the bearings escaped all over the kitchen floor. I tend to be a bit wary as a result.

magicbastarder

Also can depend on whether the bike has mudguards. Obviously the bearings are a bit better protected at the bottom of they are sheltered from the crud being thrown off the wheel.

LollipopJimmy

Effects wrote: »

Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-drive-torque-wrench-858be3.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwwZrmBRA7EiwA4iMzBEiwawxdRLQYaL6-1gCqQs9ThtMzUrP17A-PADdYKcbKjtibN3cpBRoC9OcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Can be had cheaper if you shop around. Also for the warranty you just bring it to any Teng dealer

CramCycle

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

LollipopJimmy

CramCycle wrote: »

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

Some of this is best, especially if you don't run mud guards

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/muc-off-carbon-gripper/rp-prod115119

Type 17

It should work fine without, once you use the correct torque (more important than using paste or not).

Deano12345

CramCycle wrote: »

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

Like the guys have already said, it should be fine without once it isn’t torqued out of spec, I think the paste is more important when one part is carbon and the other is Alu/Steel.

That being said, I always use the paste for any carbon parts, but that’s cause it’s so cheap, Halfords sell it now for around €3 a tube!

Cee-Jay-Cee

Deano12345 wrote: »

Like the guys have already said, it should be fine without once it isn’t torqued out of spec, I think the paste is more important when one part is carbon and the other is Alu/Steel.

That being said, I always use the paste for any carbon parts, but that’s cause it’s so cheap, Halfords sell it now for around €3 a tube!

Carbon paste is primarily to give carbon parts additional grip. I use it on seatposts and stems (with carbon bars and steerer) You can get away with a lot less torque when it’s used.

SchrodingersCat

padyjoe wrote: »

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

This looks like a nice candidate for a Dremel tool. If you can get your hands on one, cut a slot in it with a grinding disk just wide enough for a flat head screwdriver. Then use the screwdriver to take it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FENaL7fWFLM

keane2097

Not exactly maintenance but looks like this might be the right thread for a noob question. I have a cateye velo wireless computer that does average speed, distance etc but not cadence. I want to upgrade it to one where I can keep an eye on my cadence also.

Can anyone recommend me the cheapest, easiest unit to set up that will do the job (presume it's possible to get wireless)?

Cee-Jay-Cee

keane2097 wrote: »

Not exactly maintenance but looks like this might be the right thread for a noob question. I have a cateye velo wireless computer that does average speed, distance etc but not cadence. I want to upgrade it to one where I can keep an eye on my cadence also.

Can anyone recommend me the cheapest, easiest unit to set up that will do the job (presume it's possible to get wireless)?

You'll pick up a Garmin Edge 500 on ebay second hand for €30-40 or cheaper and you'll need to get a Ant+ (wireless) cadence sensor to go with it.

Or if your not in any real rush, you can get the computer, speed/cadence sensor and bike mount from Aliexpress for around €35 inc delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-Bike-Speed-Cadence-Sensor-Meilan-M4-speedometer-can-connect-Bluetooth-4-0-ANT/32905435736.html

Select Option B

keane2097

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

You'll pick up a Garmin Edge 500 on ebay second hand for €30-40 or cheaper and you'll need to get a Ant+ (wireless) cadence sensor to go with it.

Or if your not in any real rush, you can get the computer, speed/cadence sensor and bike mount from Aliexpress for around €35 inc delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-Bike-Speed-Cadence-Sensor-Meilan-M4-speedometer-can-connect-Bluetooth-4-0-ANT/32905435736.html

Select Option B

Thanks very much, feck it for the price difference I think I can stand to wait a couple of weeks for the Aliexpress version - hadn't even thought of looking there. Appreciate the help.

magicbastarder

why is it that every time i take skewers off a wheel, i end up putting the springs on the wrong way around?
i've done that the last three times in a row.

North of 32

magicbastarder wrote: »

why is it that every time i take skewers off a wheel, i end up putting the springs on the wrong way around?
i've done that the last three times in a row.

Now I'm paranoid I've done the same

magicbastarder

well, if your experience is like mine, you'll be wondering why you can't get the wheel back on the bike.