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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,550 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Never heard that before, I load up big betsy with 2 large logs on either side, then start fire in middle which I fill up with coal....the large logs will burn away all day with the coal....dont see any issue with that

    It's something to do with Sulphuric acid.

    https://www.traffordfireplaces.co.uk/can-i-burn-wood-and-coal-together/

    But i am still burning them together. I just keep both vents slightly open when the fire is really going. I feel i get the best heat burning them together.


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,395 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    jaffa20 wrote: »
    It's something to do with Sulphuric acid.

    https://www.traffordfireplaces.co.uk/can-i-burn-wood-and-coal-together/

    But i am still burning them together. I just keep both vents slightly open when the fire is really going. I feel i get the best heat burning them together.

    Yikes, was not aware of that at all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    With a new build, What stage should I consider putting my stove in?

    Also, how big of pipe does external air feed need to be?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 40,061 ✭✭✭✭Harry Palmr


    I'm looking at installing a solid fuel burner in the front room where a gas boiler/fire currently sits - that boiler is now defunct. The small three bed bungalow has electric water heating so I'm after a standalone stove of 5 or 6 KW.

    There are two options for the pipework - go out the back into the space where the gas boiler now sits or out the top and through the chimney breast at two meters*. I have no idea about the condition of the chimney lining. The existing stone hearth on which the stove would sit is 38 cm deep, so may need extending.

    *I presume keeping the pipework in the room adds more heat to the room but would it add more cost?

    So the minimum work would appear to be remove boiler/fire, clean chimney, install stove with some pipework, test/commission.

    A rough guide to the cost (ex stove) would be appreciated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 138 ✭✭kam3qnwvebf4jh


    Hi,
    I am considering purchasing a Heat Design Vitae 6kw, and was just looking to see if anyone here had purchased one and how they got on with it. I am intent on getting an inset and like the look of this one. Any other opinions on a stylish insert appreciated.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,512 ✭✭✭Wheety


    Hi,
    I am considering purchasing a Heat Design Vitae 6kw, and was just looking to see if anyone here had purchased one and how they got on with it. I am intent on getting an inset and like the look of this one. Any other opinions on a stylish insert appreciated.
    Thanks

    This is the one I have installed
    vitae.jpg

    I think it's great. Takes a while to get up to temperature but then it gets very toasty in the room. Our heating is off at the moment, so when it gets too hot we just open the door and let the heat go out into the rest of the house.

    Easy to light and control too. We've only burnt wood so far but did buy the multi-fuel grate too as an option.

    Keep the glass clean. Looks great when you get a big fire going.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭bullpost


    Hi,
    I am considering purchasing a Heat Design Vitae 6kw, and was just looking to see if anyone here had purchased one and how they got on with it. I am intent on getting an inset and like the look of this one. Any other opinions on a stylish insert appreciated.
    Thanks

    I got the 9K version. Happy with it, only issue is we didnt go for a surround, and now plaster is cracking from the heat. Not a big deal, we'll just need to patch it every so often.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,935 Mod ✭✭✭✭Turner


    Could anybody point me in the direction of an installation guide for connecting a wood stove >> vitreous enamel pipe >> clay flue adaptor>>clay flue.

    I need to know about sealing the clay flue adapter to the clay flue. Its an insert adapter, one you push into the clay flue.

    And once everything is sealed there is no need for a registration plate?


    What I was going to do was apply fire cement (1200 degrees) to the outside of the clay adapter, push adapter into clay flue. Sealing again with fire cement from the outside.

    Reaching through clay adapter and applying fire cement to to any lip or gap between clay adapter clay flue.

    Connecting vitreous enamel pipe to clay adapter sealing with fire cement inside and outside. Connecting other end of enamel pipe to the back of stove, enamel pipe has graduated 90 degree elbow. Horizontal pipe into back of stove no more than 6 inches.

    Sealing enamel pipe into rear of stove with fire cement at the join?


    Anybody advise me on this install..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,550 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Wheety wrote: »

    I think it's great. Takes a while to get up to temperature but then it gets very toasty in the room. Our heating is off at the moment, so when it gets too hot we just open the door and let the heat go out into the rest of the house.

    I have the same stove,i noticed the same. For the first hour or 2 i am waiting. There is small heat but then bang, it hits me and i need to open the door. Wonder if there's a quicker way to get heat up. Perhaps it's because it's inset/cassette that it takes a bit longer to heat up.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    With a new build, What stage should I consider putting my stove in?

    Also, how big of pipe does external air feed need to be?

    I moved in last Christmas and only getting a stove fitted tomorrow so there's no rush on it.

    Most stoves take a 4 inch diameter external air feed in my findings. Adaptors can be used anyway. My pipe comes up through the floor but if doing again I'd go through the wall. Best ring around a few stove stores though as I'm no expert on all of this!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Turner wrote: »
    Could anybody point me in the direction of an installation guide for connecting a wood stove >> vitreous enamel pipe >> clay flue adaptor>>clay flue.

    I need to know about sealing the clay flue adapter to the clay flue. Its an insert adapter, one you push into the clay flue.

    And once everything is sealed there is no need for a registration plate?


    What I was going to do was apply fire cement (1200 degrees) to the outside of the clay adapter, push adapter into clay flue. Sealing again with fire cement from the outside.

    Reaching through clay adapter and applying fire cement to to any lip or gap between clay adapter clay flue.

    Connecting vitreous enamel pipe to clay adapter sealing with fire cement inside and outside. Connecting other end of enamel pipe to the back of stove, enamel pipe has graduated 90 degree elbow. Horizontal pipe into back of stove no more than 6 inches.

    Sealing enamel pipe into rear of stove with fire cement at the join?


    Anybody advise me on this install..

    Is fire cement air tight? I assume it is.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,935 Mod ✭✭✭✭Turner


    Yes it creates an air tight seal once done properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭mobby


    Looking to get a small insert 4kw 5kw stove installed into a existing fireplace, and have been to 4 or 5 suppliers, However seem to be getting conflicting advice,2 have told me to get my chimney cleaned and pressure checked and if it passes I wont need a flexi flue pipe, Others have told me its building regulations to install a Flexi Flue piping for a stove install. I am confused and would appreciate some advice. :confused::confused:


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,395 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    mobby wrote: »
    Looking to get a small 4kw 5kw stove installed and have been to 4 or 5 suppliers, However seem to be getting conflicting advice,2 have told me to get my chimney cleaned and pressure checked and if it passes I wont need a flexi flue pipe, Others have told me its building regulations to install a Flexi Flue piping for a stove install. I am confused and would appreciate some advice. :confused::confused:

    As far as I know if your clay liner is found to be in good condition you don't necessarily need the flexi liner. There are arguments for and against whether you should get one though but it's not a violation of building regulations if you don't.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    You really need to check the manufacturer installation manual. Different outputs will have different size requirements. It’s possiple to have EITHER too big or too small flue/air intake.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭mp31


    Here they are!!!! bloody phone

    That looks great and is exactly the same thing we want to get.

    Can you please PM me the details of the supplier/fitter.

    Also, did the shop say that it was OK to keep the wooden fire surround - will the heat from the stove have any impact on it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MeAuldSegotia


    We are having a Henley stove with a log store fitted. We have a tiled floor and my questions is do we have to have it sit on some sort of stand -marble or slate? Can we just put it on the tiles as they are. Ascetically I would prefer this but if it is going to wreck the floor or cause the tiles to be marked I'd get a stand.
    TIA


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    We are having a Henley stove with a log store fitted. We have a tiled floor and my questions is do we have to have it sit on some sort of stand -marble or slate? Can we just put it on the tiles as they are. Ascetically I would prefer this but if it is going to wreck the floor or cause the tiles to be marked I'd get a stand.
    TIA

    I asked my stove fitter the same question and he said there was no need for a plinth. He is a professional fitter. I hope to get it fitted this weekend. If anyone knows otherwise then please shout!


  • Registered Users Posts: 509 ✭✭✭bigronnie9


    Hi Lads,

    Couple of newbie questions I'd appreciate some help with.

    Recently got a stove installed (Heritage Dromore 5kw), the original fireplace had been plastered shut so they cracked it open and were able to set it back into the hearth like we wanted as its a small enough room :)

    Currently it just has the original brickwork in the fireplace, but we are thinking of changing it. Apparently the options are:

    Plaster it and paint it (i assume some kind of heat proof stuff)
    Tile inside the fireplace

    So just wondering is there any difference besides aesthetics between the two approaches? And is it normal (stove installer said it was) to get these done after the stove has been installed? I'd say it could be awkward working around it for both?

    And last question...have lit the stove the last two nights now, using just wood and not going too mad as our meant to break it in apparently.... how do I know once its broken in enough??? :o

    I can post a pic if that would help, not sure if this is standard?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 509 ✭✭✭bigronnie9


    Wheety wrote: »
    Keep the glass clean. Looks great when you get a big fire going.

    Any tips for keeping the glass clean on a stove? Just a case of wiping it down every now and again?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,812 ✭✭✭✭evolving_doors


    bigronnie9 wrote: »
    Any tips for keeping the glass clean on a stove? Just a case of wiping it down every now and again?

    Cheap aldi Baby wipes at as good as any.
    Minor adjustments with airwash system to find the sweet spot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,061 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    bigronnie9 wrote: »
    Any tips for keeping the glass clean on a stove? Just a case of wiping it down every now and again?

    Damp newspaper dipped in ashes works absolutely great. It's free and contains no artificial chemicals etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    I'm installing a Stanley stove and I want to install a stone effect clad/tile behind the stove with a stone effect tile, what adhesive should I use to fix the stone with,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    Finally got my Henley arklow 7kw fitted delighted with it, here's the before and after pics Tidy job ... Fitter arrived at 9 gone at 1
    How are you doing with the Henley Arklow? Thanks for sharing the before and after pics.

    Could you tell me the total cost you paid? I'm looking at getting a Henley Arklow 5kW.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,825 ✭✭✭LirW


    Can anyone give me an idea how much the fitting of a 5kw inset stove would cost?


  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    leck wrote: »
    How are you doing with the Henley Arklow? Thanks for sharing the before and after pics.

    Could you tell me the total cost you paid? I'm looking at getting a Henley Arklow 5kW.



    Hi it was 1,290 for the stove and bits that I needed see attached below,the labour was 320 euro so 1610euro all in, fitter arrived at 9am done and dusted by 1pm very happy with the work done
    If your able try and get the 7kw it's not that much bigger, i have specs if you need, anything else fire away.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    Hi it was 1,290 for the stove and bits that I needed see attached below,the labour was 320 euro so 1610euro all in, fitter arrived at 9am done and dusted by 1pm very happy with the work done
    If your able try and get the 7kw it's not that much bigger, i have specs if you need, anything else fire away.
    I think 7kW might be too much for the room, but might look at the specs to see if it would fit.

    ...just looked and see the difference is in the depth of the 5kW vs 7kW. The 7kW wouldn't fit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    leck wrote: »
    I think 7kW might be too much for the room, but might look at the specs to see if it would fit.

    ...just looked and see the difference is in the depth of the 5kW vs 7kW. The 7kW wouldn't fit.

    Big difference in heat if you can


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,709 ✭✭✭Tombo2001


    Big difference in heat if you can

    For the same amount of fuel - does a 7kw give off more heat than a 5kw.....?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭mp31


    Tombo2001 wrote: »
    For the same amount of fuel - does a 7kw give off more heat than a 5kw.....?

    I would say no. If both stoves are set to the same airflow then both will give off the same amount of heat for the same amount of fuel (assuming both have warmed up equally)

    I reckon the 7kw stove can take more fuel and hence generates more heat however I'm sure someone who understands the physics of these things will be able to give an accurate answer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    can anyone tell the best 8kw mutli stove to buy please


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,251 ✭✭✭Juwwi


    Hi I got a quote from a installer to take out old fire place ,remove hearth and back boiler and make the opening bigger,install a new support beam.

    Clean the chimney and line chimney with flue.

    Tile the chamber with stone and fit a new hearth .

    Also fit a oak wooden mantle

    I'd get the breast plastered and I'd get a plumber to disconnect back boiler .

    Quote was 1750 with me supplying the stove .

    Does this seem reasonable or a bit on the dear side ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,570 ✭✭✭savemejebus


    Anyone know how hamco stoves compare to heritage stoves quality wise? Am looking at Hamco Allen vs Heritage skellig specifically. Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    Had a Henley Arklow 5kW installed yesterday. Delighted with the result.

    Before and after pics attached. There had been an open fire in the fireplace originally, then an oil burner was fitted about 12 years ago, followed by an electric fire most recently.

    The stove was fitted into the existing opening although the granite slab at the back was removed. This allowed more room for insulation too. The brass fender has to go as it doesn't allow the door of the stove to open.


  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Gastric Apple


    Hello,

    Got a stove fitted a few weeks back and it's been going great. However, just this evening I've noticed a crack in the board above the stove. There's a hole cut out that the flue goes up, but there's now a crack from this hole to the edge of the board. I think it's called the skamolex board?

    Is this something I should be worried about / need to get fixed? You can't see it unless you're looking up from the stove.

    Any help appreciated. Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    looks well
    how much was that stove
    and wouild you know what flue size
    leck wrote: »
    Had a Henley Arklow 5kW installed yesterday. Delighted with the result.

    Before and after pics attached. There had been an open fire in the fireplace originally, then an oil burner was fitted about 12 years ago, followed by an electric fire most recently.

    The stove was fitted into the existing opening although the granite slab at the back was removed. This allowed more room for insulation too. The brass fender has to go as it doesn't allow the door of the stove to open.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    GY A1 wrote: »
    looks well
    how much was that stove
    and would you know what flue size
    That stove retails between €500 and €999 depending on where you go, so do shop around. I found it hard to compare prices online as that stove seems to be newer version of Henley Achill.

    Sorry, I don't know about flue size. The installer pulled out the old flexiflue liner that was for the oil stove and replace with new and then added vermiculite between that and clay pots.

    I was warned to only have three small fires before going full tilt. Last night the fire was an enormous blaze and all I had in there was a firelighter to start, one Aldi firelog, 4-5 bits of kindling and one briquette. Even after closing the air down, it was really blazing, so wondering if there's too much air getting in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,550 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    leck wrote: »
    That stove retails between €500 and €999 depending on where you go, so do shop around. I found it hard to compare prices online as that stove seems to be newer version of Henley Achill.

    Sorry, I don't know about flue size. The installer pulled out the old flexiflue liner that was for the oil stove and replace with new and then added vermiculite between that and clay pots.

    I was warned to only have three small fires before going full tilt. Last night the fire was an enormous blaze and all I had in there was a firelighter to start, one Aldi firelog, 4-5 bits of kindling and one briquette. Even after closing the air down, it was really blazing, so wondering if there's too much air getting in.

    Be careful with firelogs. I thought they couldn't be used i stoves.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 darrenp363


    Hi guys, hoping someone can help me here, moved in to a new house a few months ago that has a stanley ashling stove along with oil central heating, lit the stove for the first time tonight but no heat in the radiators, the water in the cylinder was heating but not the rads, thermostat is set at 40, is it just a case that the circulation pump is not kicking in? the house had been idle for a few years before we moved in.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    When I light my stove, there’s a lot of smoke coming out the door, until the fire takes hold, would it be I’m not using enough firefighters, the kindling is bone dry,
    Any suggestions,??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭mp31


    ronn wrote: »
    When I light my stove, there’s a lot of smoke coming out the door, until the fire takes hold, would it be I’m not using enough firefighters, the kindling is bone dry,
    Any suggestions,??

    We have a new Arklow stove yoke as well and I'm new to all this.
    I've found that holding the door ajar by a small amount for the first few minutes of lighting allows the fire to build up quickly and reduces the smoke coming into the room.
    Open the door, push the handle all the way down and then use a large log to prop the door against the stove - this maintains a small air gap whilst the fire lights up.
    After a few mins, the door can be closed normally.


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,395 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    mp31 wrote: »
    We have a new Arklow stove yoke as well and I'm new to all this.
    I've found that holding the door ajar by a small amount for the first few minutes of lighting allows the fire to build up quickly and reduces the smoke coming into the room.
    Open the door, push the handle all the way down and then use a large log to prop the door against the stove - this maintains a small air gap whilst the fire lights up.
    After a few mins, the door can be closed normally.

    I've a stratford inset and they actually recommend doing that for 5 minutes to establish a draw after you light the kindling before putting in the main fuel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    ronn wrote: »
    When I light my stove, there’s a lot of smoke coming out the door, until the fire takes hold, would it be I’m not using enough firefighters, the kindling is bone dry,
    Any suggestions,??

    When you say there's a lot of smoke coming out the door I presume you're leaving the door open?
    I have a Henley Arklow and this is what i do, I cut fire a log in half place it on a bed of kindling light it, close the door open the bottom air vent fully and the air wash vent on top and that's it , I never ever have to open the door to get it going and you shouldn't have to open the door either.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    ronn wrote: »
    When I light my stove, there’s a lot of smoke coming out the door, until the fire takes hold, would it be I’m not using enough firefighters, the kindling is bone dry,
    Any suggestions,??

    If this has only started happening recently it is a sign that the chimney needs cleaning especially if you have a 5 or 6 inch flexi flue installed as the soot bulid up on the sides of the flexi flue will have decreased its size and therefore will reduce the draw.

    If this has always happened then it a draw problem.......sometimes weather conditions will affect the draw too


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    gillad wrote: »
    If this has only started happening recently it is a sign that the chimney needs cleaning especially if you have a 5 or 6 inch flexi flue installed as the soot bulid up on the sides of the flexi flue will have decreased its size and therefore will reduce the draw.

    If this has always happened then it a draw problem.......sometimes weather conditions will affect the draw too

    It’s happening when I light the firelighter/kindling, the smoke comes out through the top of the door, no flexi flu in it and the chimney goes up 8/9meters, it’s a Stanley aoife 2years old and hasn’t been used much,


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    ronn wrote: »
    It’s happening when I light the firelighter/kindling, the smoke comes out through the top of the door, no flexi flu in it and the chimney goes up 8/9meters, it’s a Stanley aoife 2years old and hasn’t been used much,

    does the steel flue come out the back of the stove or out the top?....if there is any part of the flue that is horizontal then that will affect the draw too.
    Any Horizontal flue should not be more than 6 inches


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    gillad wrote: »
    does the steel flue come out the back of the stove or out the top?....if there is any part of the flue that is horizontal then that will affect the draw too.
    Any Horizontal flue should not be more than 6 inches

    Out the top, no horizontal flue either, it’s only when I light the fire, once the fires lighting there’s no issues


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    ronn wrote: »
    Out the top, no horizontal flue either, it’s only when I light the fire, once the fires lighting there’s no issues

    everything seems fine, so all I can say now is open the window when you are lighting it.it will add to the draw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    gillad wrote: »
    everything seems fine, so all I can say now is open the window when you are lighting it.it will add to the draw

    I’ve just lit the fire now, I placed the kindling back a bit and it seemed to work better than having it in the middle,

    Now I just need tips on keeping the glass clean, is there anything out there that keeps the glass clean permanently


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    ronn wrote: »
    I’ve just lit the fire now, I placed the kindling back a bit and it seemed to work better than having it in the middle,

    Now I just need tips on keeping the glass clean, is there anything out there that keeps the glass clean permanently

    Iv had a stanley oisin for the last 5 years and the only way to keep the glass clean was to have a raging fire going but the room would get too hot.
    I have just put in a new stove with an airwash system that is suppossed to keep the glass clean.,,,,i haven't lit it yet,,hopefully tomorrow it will get its first fire


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