Detailing chat

Noccy_Mondy · 27-03-2016 10:16PM

I'd hapily pay 50 for a set of genuine looking hubcaps. Nothing worse then seeing a set of lidls finest on a car.....

MarkN · 28-03-2016 08:39PM

Hi lads - got a clay mitt today and I'm just wondering... As you can't knead it like a clay bar, is it really just a case of keeping it lubricated? Do you not end up rubbing the bits of tar etc into the car by not being able to knead? Just curious before I do a job on the car. Thanks!

bennyx_o · 28-03-2016 08:47PM

When I've used mine I just make sure it's well lubricated. Don't use too much pressure and don't be alarmed it sounds a little like sand paper to begin with. I also started on glass, just to be safe

EDIT: While I'm here, anyone know of anywhere in Dublin that stocks Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer?

punisher5112 · 28-03-2016 08:49PM

MarkN wrote: »

Hi lads - got a clay mitt today and I'm just wondering... As you can't knead it like a clay bar, is it really just a case of keeping it lubricated? Do you not end up rubbing the bits of tar etc into the car by not being able to knead? Just curious before I do a job on the car. Thanks!

De tar car 1st and wash with all purpose cleaner and de tar again if needed and wash again

MarkN · 28-03-2016 09:29PM

punisher5112 wrote: »

De tar car 1st and wash with all purpose cleaner and de tar again if needed and wash again

Kinda defeats purpose though. Could just use a normal clay and get rid of tar and everything else in one go.

Am I worrying over nothing?

punisher5112 · 28-03-2016 09:40PM

MarkN wrote: »

Kinda defeats purpose though. Could just use a normal clay and get rid of tar and everything else in one go.

Am I worrying over nothing?

the clay bar isn't to remove tar though as if you were to do that you would drag and scratch the paint badly.

You must have car paint surface as clean and dirt free before attempting to clay.

Clay gets all the impurities that are left behind after even the deep clean.

MarkN · 28-03-2016 09:57PM

True, I just think the fact that you can change the surface of the clay bar seems a bit safer. I have some tar remover so I'll give that a blast first.

*Kol* · 28-03-2016 11:21PM

MarkN wrote: »

True, I just think the fact that you can change the surface of the clay bar seems a bit safer. I have some tar remover so I'll give that a blast first.

You need to rinse the mitt every so often to get rid of the impurities. As was said earlier I wouldn't clay over tar as you run the risk of dragging any grit that is in the tar over the paint.

Curran · 29-03-2016 01:38PM

As the lads have said, claying, be it by clay bar or mitt, is not the step for removing tar spots, no matter how small or little amount there is.
Tar contains dirt and grit, and the motion of the clay bar / mitt across the surface, if there is tar on the paintwork will result in micro scratches. They wont be major ones, but will none the less. Its repeated poor care like this and poor wash techniques that quickly results in the overall appearance of the car going downhill.
The car should be de-tar'd before claying....inevitably if the car is heavily contaminated with tar, not 100% off the tar will be removed and some will end up being lifted by the clay bar. The benefit then is that the clay bar surface can be kneaded to a fresh surface if you see that you are getting tar marks on the surface of the clay.

Noccy_Mondy · 29-03-2016 01:48PM

I used this, kneaded it about 20 times fo get a fresh face on it. Looks like tar, but it's not, more like dirt and impurities that were invisible to the naked eye. Such a satisfying process when you rub the bar and all you feel is smooth paint. Time for the bin with this lad anyway.

Also, when doing the focus, it was machine polished last summer, I rubbed the claybar along it, and gradually a bluish dust started gathering on the bar (car is dark navy). Wasn't a lot but a bit nonetheless. Something left after polishing?

They caught one of the window weather strips too, left kind of a light blue graze on the rubber.

MetzgerMeister · 29-03-2016 02:14PM

Also a good thing about properly detarring a car before claying is that the tar remover can remove what feels like contamination therefore reducing the amount of claying needed.

markc1184 · 29-03-2016 05:07PM

I'm looking to get some new wax. I have been using Autoglym HD upto now but I was thinking of giving Collinite a go. I've seen it mentioned before on different forums. Which is best to use, a liquid wax or a paste wax? It's black cars that I have, are there others recommended that work well on black?

fryup · 29-03-2016 05:09PM

Its on the bonnet its like old hard tree sap/tar/bird crap...i don't know exactly.

I tried the spray on tree sap/tar remover but to no avail..is there any other method??

punisher5112 · 29-03-2016 06:05PM

fryup wrote: »

Its on the bonnet its like old hard tree sap/tar/bird crap...i don't know exactly.

I tried the spray on tree sap/tar remover but to no avail..is there any other method??

Look up the tar remover on detailingshed.com

It will need a paint detail so a machine compound polish and finish as it looks to have damaged top coat.

Curran · 29-03-2016 06:35PM

markc1184 wrote: »

I'm looking to get some new wax. I have been using Autoglym HD upto now but I was thinking of giving Collinite a go. I've seen it mentioned before on different forums. Which is best to use, a liquid wax or a paste wax? It's black cars that I have, are there others recommended that work well on black?

AG HD Wax is a very good wax; one of their better products.
Cant fault Collinite either, for the price, it punches above its weight.

There are others that are designed with black in mind, the likes of Chemical Guys Pete's53 Black Pearl, or CG's Black Wax.....but 90% of the battle is down to the preparation prior to applying a wax or sealant!

Curran · 29-03-2016 06:37PM

fryup wrote: »

Its on the bonnet its like old hard tree sap/tar/bird crap...i don't know exactly.

I tried the spray on tree sap/tar remover but to no avail..is there any other method??

Looks like the clear coat has been etched, pretty badly too, but bird poo!
Machine polishing is the only likely way to resolve that, if at all....its looks nasty (perhaps its just the way the photo has been taken)

Noccy_Mondy · 29-03-2016 07:44PM

fryup wrote:

I tried the spray on tree sap/tar remover but to no avail..is there any other method??

Is there any way of reducing the nasty look of an egg mark on a car?

fryup · 29-03-2016 10:44PM

is this the method i should copy ???

(btw - is he using t-cut?)

Curran · 30-03-2016 08:21AM

Its one approach that could be taken.

However, I would recommend that you do not attempt wet sanding, if you have no polishing experience.

No, it wouldn't be T-Cut, it would be a specific machine polishing polish - he seems to be using Chemical Guys Hex Logic Pads, so at a guess he might be using Chemical Guys V32, V34, V36 or V38 polish, but equally could be something from a different range of polishes...certainly not T-Cut though. Also, T-Cut will not remove the micro scratches inflicted on the surface by the wet sanding.

fryup · 31-03-2016 12:31PM

while i'm at it, there's several raised marks about the body...is it hardened tree sap??

how do you remove?

Curran · 31-03-2016 02:54PM

Tree sap wouldnt usually look quite like that, but perhaps it is. A tar remover would make light work of it if it was.
It looks more like bird droppings. Another thing it might be is lime deposits, but usually that would have a stain adjoining, of where the water would run off the car.

Foxhole Norman · 31-03-2016 08:19PM

Picked up some Dr. Leather Dye Block today, hope it's as good as everyone says it is, will be going in brand new BMW Leather.

philstar · 31-03-2016 09:37PM

Curran wrote: »

Another thing it might be is lime deposits, but usually that would have a stain adjoining, of where the water would run off the car.

what be that? lime from water after a car wash?

MetzgerMeister · 31-03-2016 09:54PM

philstar wrote: »

what be that? lime from water after a car wash?

Think a multi-storey car park or underground car park. Water leaking from above is usually full of lime. Why, I'm not sure.

Curran · 31-03-2016 10:40PM

What he said!

The surface that the water runs through in the likes of the multi-story car parks is soft and full of lime. The calcium / lime dissolves and deposits when it dries out.
So if you parked in the same spot on the drip is likely to be in the same place, day after day...its also known to happen even over a few hours, but to a much lesser degree.

Examples:

Extreme case where it was splashing all over the bonnet
a3before1.jpg.html

Big-Mac · 01-04-2016 01:11AM

So decided to go ahead and buy soft99 fusso sealant should I buy the soft99 king of gloss too to apply after the fusso?

Is that the best way to do it? Fusso first followed by king of gloss?

vectra · 01-04-2016 01:44AM

Big-Mac wrote: »

So decided to go ahead and buy soft99 fusso sealant should I buy the soft99 king of gloss too to apply after the fusso?

Is that the best way to do it? Fusso first followed by king of gloss?

I had both
I preferred Fusso on its own.
2 very very light coats with a damp applicator 24 hours apart.

Noccy_Mondy · 01-04-2016 01:53AM

MetzgerMeister wrote:

Think a multi-storey car park or underground car park. Water leaking from above is usually full of lime. Why, I'm not sure.

Passing through the block work and cement, riddled with lime.

Big-Mac · 01-04-2016 10:14AM

vectra wrote: »

I had both
I preferred Fusso on its own.
2 very very light coats with a damp applicator 24 hours apart.

Do will the fusso leave a nice shine too.

Also what's the best spray for windows and headlight?

vectra · 01-04-2016 12:04PM

Big-Mac wrote: »

Do will the fusso leave a nice shine too.

Also what's the best spray for windows and headlight?

Fusso alone leaves a great long lasting shine.

You mean to clean the windows as in window cleaner?

Go to your local super valu or centra or whoever is nearby and get a bottle of this >

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