Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
The "Today I did something to my car" thread
Comments
-
-
-
-
Washed the cars yesterday, loads of pics so I'll just link to the thread
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=20569202930 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
Just after putting a new lambda sensor in the MX5 because it was a bit sluggish and seemed to guzzle petrol.
Then thought it would be good to check for any possible error codes, because there's no engine management light to warn you that anything's amiss.
Instead of an OBD reader you will normally need a paperclip, a 2k Ohm resistor and an LED and stick them into the diagnostic port thusly:
But I did not have a 2 k Ohm resistor or an LED, so I had to use a multimeter set to 50 volt DC:
Closeup of the diagnostics port and meter probes:
When you turn the ignition on, it gives one pulse and if any error codes are present, it will give you the code in a series of electrical impulses, visible on the LED or in my case, pulses of the needle.
Thankfully, all was clear and the MX5 flies again.
Well, not quite as easy as this. A word of warning to anyone attempting to read the error codes on their MX5 this way:
If the terminals of the meter touch of the paperclip used to short out the other two connectors, you will blow the 15a engine fuse. Queue the Fuzz running around in a panic and swearing loudly, as I was convinced I just blew the MX5's brains out. But thankfully, after purloining another 15a fuse from one of the headlights, (nice and bright outside now so will survive for a day) the engine sprung back into life and me rejoicing after a scary moment. Phew!0 -
Motul & Hamp filter change, I've always used both in any Honda I've had and never had any oil burners
Quick tip for anyone changing the oil filter on a K20 variant honda, when you jack the car up, lock the steering fully to the left and you can fit your hand in from behind the wheel and the filter is sitting right above the cv boot so you can loosen it easier from there than underneath the car
0 -
Advertisement
-
-
What way does the retest work is the few less or is it a full 87.16 euro again? At least it didn't fail on much I'm sure it will fly the retest.
20 euro for a normal retest. I failed on a track rod end too. Also on brake efficiency(aswell as fog lights out, flexi hoses perished and headlight alignment...:o) too so it'll have to go back on the rollers. Brake efficiency was 52% which would have passed the UK MOT 50% limit but not the DOE which is 55%.
I asked two mechanics and they both said to just replace the one track rod end
. 0 -
-
-
Ronnie Beck wrote: »It is, just looked that up. Officially it is.
Thankfully my re-test is only 20 for some reason. They have to machine test the light and brakes. Should only take 10 minutes though.
The whole thing is way over priced. 90 quid for a 30 minute test and 6 euro to print out your cert as a final kick in the stones when your completely skint. Tiger prices.
Maybe it is...
Still, I'd rather the DOE and commercial tax a 2.8 than private and NCT...
0 -
-
740i Transmission Oil flush and filter change, part by part (I know VoodooMelon already did this, but dammit I smell like ATF and took photos and got to do something with them!)
Car on ramps at the front, quad axle stands at the rear (not in photo). Driven wheels have to be off the ground, making this far easier on a BMW than my old Audi S8 (if you dont know why, out yourself so we can laugh at you):
BMW have a sense of humour.. "Lifetime" means until the car/gearbox dies after 100k (ie outside warranty), therefore the installed at factory oil always lasts the "lifetime" of the car. The people who actually make the Gearbox (ZF) or any maker of ATF of course do not at all agree with such rubbish.
"No change necessary - please reserve EUR100k for replacement of 7 series outside original's lifetime"
My preferred ATF is Redline D4, which exceeds the older Esso Spec and conveniently also exceeds the Shell spec for the newer E60 6speed transmissions (and a load other specs). Highly recommended though USA based so not that common over here. They specifically test and assure their products with a variety of BMW parts. You can buy Redline products at Couture Auto in Dunboyne (also where Boards have some of the group Dyno runs).
This terrifying mess of electronics, hydraulics and oil is what an Auto transmission looks like with the sump and filter removed:
Here is the Sump out (to be cleaned) and the ATF drained. See that bucket of ATF? That was red once, but this isnt the original ATF, this is the second time Ive done this on this car. That ATF is all of 24hrs old! If I were to drain this again, it would come out much "redder", ie it doesnt just go dark within short periods unless its pulling dirt out. Gearbox has 130k miles on it. The 4 rectangles on the sump are magnets, preinstalled at factory to capture metal fragments:
You need to use a pump or suction hose to get the ATF into the transmission, here I load up a 10l plastic diesel tank with 6litres of Redline ATF and route the hose into the fill plug (along the exhaust):
Finally, and this is the fun part.. you pump in about 4litres with the engine off, then you must start the engine and put it in gear (and turn off traction control as it kinda freaks out) then put the remainder in, remembering to go to Reverse and Drive at different points, ideally stepping through Tiptronic gears 1 to 4 manually.
When you are finished, ATF should be dribbling out when in Drive, then you must crawl under the car, while the wheels are spinning in Drive, remove the hose then replace the Fill Plug. If you put it in Park the suction stops and it will "belch" out a load of ATF when you remove the hose. Also, you have to do this entire process within 15min, specfically before the oil reaches 50c or else you need to stop, let it cool (as it expands) and start again.
0 -
dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »Just after putting a new lambda sensor in the MX5 because it was a bit sluggish and seemed to guzzle petrol.
Then thought it would be good to check for any possible error codes, because there's no engine management light to warn you that anything's amiss.
Instead of an OBD reader you will normally need a paperclip, a 2k Ohm resistor and an LED and stick them into the diagnostic port thusly:[IMG]But I did not have a 2 k Ohm resistor or an LED, so I had to use a multimeter set to 50 volt DC:[/img][IMG]Closeup of the diagnostics port and meter probes:[/img][IMG]When you turn the ignition on, it gives one pulse and if any error codes are present, it will give you the code in a series of electrical impulses, visible on the LED or in my case, pulses of the needle.
Thankfully, all was clear and the MX5 flies again.
Well, not quite as easy as this. A word of warning to anyone attempting to read the error codes on their MX5 this way:
If the terminals of the meter touch of the paperclip used to short out the other two connectors, you will blow the 15a engine fuse. Queue the Fuzz running around in a panic and swearing loudly, as I was convinced I just blew the MX5's brains out. But thankfully, after purloining another 15a fuse from one of the headlights, (nice and bright outside now so will survive for a day) the engine sprung back into life and me rejoicing after a scary moment. Phew![/img]
Check this out for future reference - http://dx.com/p/428250 -
I was getting thoroughly annoyed/fed up of the different colour lights on the front of the Shogun any time I caught a glimpse of a reflection. :mad: The super-white led's I'd fitted to the park lights just stood out too much. Since I've no real intention of going to the hassle or expense of changing to Xenon's up front, I swapped the super-white out for much better colour matching warm-white versions. :cool:
The smaller one is the super-white, larger is obviously the warm-white.
And a poor camera photo taken the other night when I was checking the lights on the caravan to show the difference when lit up.
So now the super-whites are fitted to the rear numberplate - let's see the DOE guy's fail to spot them next time! :P
Also spent much of the afternoon trying to find a guide online for removing the front bumper
0 -
Small job, but refitted the engine cover badge to the S4.
It was missing when I bought the car, but in the process of looking for a replacement on the web I discovered that its fairly common for the to part company with the cover over time.
Lots of people said they found theirs down between the firewall and engine and sure enough thats where I found mine.
0 -
Advertisement
-
SniperSight wrote: »Small job, but refitted the engine cover badge to the S4.
It was missing when I bought the car, but in the process of looking for a replacement on the web I discovered that its fairly common for the to part company with the cover over time.
Lots of people said they found theirs down between the firewall and engine and sure enough thats where I found mine.
Did you see the latest Chris Hariss video with his new S4?
He got it tuned and in a drag to 150mph+ the new RS4 was only about half a car length ahead.
Edit: it's actually the supercharged V6 in the video but I'm sure there's a bit left in that engine.0 -
-
-
-
-
-
Not the most exciting thing in the world, but got my new wiper blades through in the post today.
Went with the Bosch Aero-twins in the end and curious to see how they perform compared to a conventional blade.
Halfords wanted over €40 for the pair :eek:
eBay + parcel motel = €25 0 -
Not the most exciting thing in the world, but got my new wiper blades through in the post today.
Went with the Bosch Aero-twins in the end and curious to see how they perform compared to a conventional blade.
Halfords wanted over €40 for the pair :eek:
eBay + parcel motel = €25
There great wipers I got them about a month ago. They are a little more expensive but I got mine online too about €25. They are worth investing in though as they seem to spend alot of the time switched on In Ireland anyway.0 -
-
Advertisement
-
This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement