The "Today I did something to my car" thread

Paddy@CIRL

bmstuff wrote: »

It is not too bright right? Does not look like it from your pictures anyway, just whiter/brighter light.

I have been in a few bimmers where those bulbs were so bright it was blinding me when opening the door...chinese stuff :cool:

Did you see that one too? I have seen it for real in a Audi it was quiet nice...

I think they're just right Mick, certainly no brighter than stock.

king_of_inismac wrote: »

Hi Paddy,

Two questions:

1. Can you provide a link to the guy you bought the bulbs off?

2. Where did you buy the replacement gearstick. Mine is scratched from a previous owner.

1. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321036054787?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

2. From the main dealer, it's the Performance shifter and gaiter.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

+1 for a link

I presume they're all the same for the E92?

I think there's two extra bulbs for the E92 in the rear footwells

dgt

Conchurl wrote: »

i paid 130 for them. i wont be putting them on for a bit as i have other 406 alloys on the car and want to use all the thread off them i . what did you pay for yours?

5 wheels for £60 inc tyres, caps and bolts

Conchurl

dgt wrote: »

5 wheels for £60 inc tyres, caps and bolts

do you anywhere online i can get longer bolts for the alloy as the ones i have on now are from when it had steel wheels on and are a bit short peugeot wanted €5 a bolt last time i checked. how did you get them for so cheap?

dgt

Conchurl wrote: »

do you anywhere online i can get longer bolts for the alloy as the ones i have on now are from when it had steel wheels on and are a bit short peugeot wanted €5 a bolt last time i checked. how did you get them for so cheap?

Afraid not, I'd try ebay first if looking new. Those wheels take a flat face bolt, the tapered steel ones won't work. You are looking for M12 x 1.25 bolts with a flat face. Alternatively, have a hunt round a scrapyard for similar bolts; the corail requires a slightly longer bolt than standard. I must see if I can get pics up...

I deal a lot with that particular yard hence they look after us quite well with parts

Conchurl

dgt wrote: »

Afraid not, I'd try ebay first if looking new. Those wheels take a flat face bolt, the tapered steel ones won't work. You are looking for M12 x 1.25 bolts with a flat face. Alternatively, have a hunt round a scrapyard for similar bolts; the corail requires a slightly longer bolt than standard. I must see if I can get pics up...

I deal a lot with that particular yard hence they look after us quite well with parts

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/OE-WHEELS-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-EXTENDED-WHEEL-BOLTS-FLAT-SEAT-SET-16-50MM-/300624905504?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item45fea40520#ht_2217wt_1186

something like this? what length would i need to get?

or this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Peugeot-406-407-605-607-Partner-Silver-Alloy-Wheel-Bolts-17mm-Flat-Seat-/160935609592

or this http://www.ebay.ie/itm/16-x-GENUINE-FLAT-SEATED-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-ALLOY-WHEEL-BOLTS-12X1-25-/140892175869?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item20cdd3fdfd#ht_3077wt_1186

dgt

Conchurl wrote: »

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/OE-WHEELS-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-EXTENDED-WHEEL-BOLTS-FLAT-SEAT-SET-16-50MM-/300624905504?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item45fea40520#ht_2217wt_1186

something like this? what length would i need to get?

or this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Peugeot-406-407-605-607-Partner-Silver-Alloy-Wheel-Bolts-17mm-Flat-Seat-/160935609592

or this http://www.ebay.ie/itm/16-x-GENUINE-FLAT-SEATED-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-ALLOY-WHEEL-BOLTS-12X1-25-/140892175869?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item20cdd3fdfd#ht_3077wt_1186

Here are the bolts you need beside the standard bolts


Alloy bolts at top, standard at bottom. While the standard bolts appear to fit quite well


You can see why the flat face is needed for extra length


Short bolts will put more pressure on a smaller area of threads and eventually strip them. Not nice!

Tip: to take off the centre cap use a 10mm allen key

Edit: either of the last 2 links in your post are the bolts you need as I have both sets myself :pac:

Conchurl

dgt wrote: »

Here are the bolts you need beside the standard bolts


Alloy bolts at top, standard at bottom. While the standard bolts appear to fit quite well


You can see why the flat face is needed for extra length


Short bolts will put more pressure on a smaller area of threads and eventually strip them. Not nice!

Tip: to take off the centre cap use a 10mm allen key

Edit: either of the last 2 links in your post are the bolts you need as I have both sets myself :pac:

if you get a chance over the next few days would measure them just so i know im buying the right one

dgt

Conchurl wrote: »

if you get a chance over the next few days would measure them just so i know im buying the right one

Why wait?

Overall length


Length of taper


Breadth of washer


Length of thread including space


Length of useable thread


Hope that was useful!

Conchurl

Sound for that dgt there was no need to go and do it straight away. I'm of to search eBay to see if I can get them for a fair price

Top Dog

Hitched it up to the caravan to take it for its spring wash (yes, I plan on annoying you all this summer :pac: )



Can't say I was too impressed with being charged €30 to wash it, and she wanted to charge me €40! :eek: Same place only charged me €15 this time last year :mad:

Finally got to see if moving the towball inward would be ok and all seems fine thankfully.



Ran the break-away cable over the top of the hitch though as when hanging below it was barely 2" off the ground and only asking to catch on something - I'm assuming there's nothing wrong with this?

Mar4ix

Conchurl wrote: »

Sound for that dgt there was no need to go and do it straight away. I'm of to search eBay to see if I can get them for a fair price

You got PM

advertsfox

Replace the dash vent that lifted in the GP last night - two of the right side clips broke on their own over time (common fault) but fook me it took two of us to get the thing actually out and a new one back in again! Here's how it looked prior to lifting (not my pictures). No more rattle for another 7 years Next - wheel arch liners.

challengemaster

There's something bittersweet about diagnosing car problems

There's play in the tie rods.... In fairness, the only part I hadn't changed in the front suspension (bar arb bushes)

Also managed to wash the car, first time in forever I've had a chance to.... Last few sunny days haven't helped the dust situation either...













As you can see in the 2nd last picture, I've acquired the iPhone 17 :pac:

pred racer

Jebus, that was even dirtyier than mine :eek:

dgt

Damnit now I'm in the mood for washing cars....

dgt

So lets see how far I got washing cars....















Hahahahahaha yeah right :pac::pac::pac:

To the XUD on a pallet! Pair of I should say

First: pump put back on


I managed to root out a gates belt. Tensioner and roller I can't be arsed changing yet but in due time I will


Such a simple effort to tension, loosen 2 x 13mm nuts and the spring will tension the belt. Tighten and off you go

For future timing belt changes, copper grease the crank pulley


I couldn't find a suitable blanking plug so I had no choice but to re install the manifold plus turbo. Bums


Then I wired it up


Did it work?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21pxJtLNICQ

Damn straight it did

On another note, the planned cooler is a bit too wide....


Meh, I'll find some way around that :P

barura

I shoulda stayed around for that! Ah well, fantastic work as always dgt.

dgt

dgt wrote: »

Damnit now I'm in the mood for washing cars....

Oh dear. What have you all done to me.... :eek:

So I cleaned the car Then decided to polish the windows


That's not glass polish if I may add...


Then the rest of the car


Could it be?


That shine!!! :eek::eek::eek:


Those pictures do not show how shiny the car is. Just wow :cool:

And fixed a blown foglight


Yeah... The unknown side of dgt....

5500

Got my Koni sport rear shocks today and fitted them. There a popular upgrade from stock on FD2's and the difference is night and day



The car is an ex honda demo and mileage is quite low but recommended brake fluid change is at 5 years so said I'd do it while I had the wheels off, the front brembos have the bleed on the outside of the caliper so makes it even handier



And also gave the pollen filter a change while I was at it



Need to get 4 wheel alignment done next, then oil and coolant change and that'll do me for a month or two!

joujoujou

Got my car back from mechanic.

Engine+gearbox replaced. Entire exhaust replaced (all parts from donor I bought before).

400 EUR for labour and I'm bankrupt now. :eek:

Mar4ix

joujoujou wrote: »

Got my car back from mechanic.

Engine+gearbox replaced. Entire exhaust replaced (all parts from donor I bought before).

400 EUR for labour and I'm bankrupt now. :eek:

at the end, wouldnt be cheaper just buy running car ??? If you sell/scrap your old car, and buy a car. , instead of buy parts , then pay mechanic, and other bits ??
I thought you goin fit all parts yourself :rolleyes:

i am planing remove engine head on my Avensis , send out for reconditioning, remove oil sump, probably goin replace piston rings, a bit oil burns ... according emission test... could be stem seals, could be oil rings.

joujoujou

Mar4ix wrote: »

at the end, wouldnt be cheaper just buy running car ??? [...]

Yes, it would, especially the one I bought was in running condition (more-less), although filthy (not well looked after).

But it's not a matter of price, as...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdDNFJpil50

dgt

Daylight



I didn't do the back bumper on account of the crap caked into it


Still though :cool:

Top Dog

DOE time ... and she failed



Was expecting it to be worst though if I'm honest - passenger side track rod end and 1 of the rear numberplate lights (which was actually working).

So for those in the know, would I be fine just replacing the passenger side or should I really be doing both sides?

Bpmull

Top Dog wrote: »

DOE time ... and she failed

What way does the retest work is the few less or is it a full 87.16 euro again? At least it didn't fail on much I'm sure it will fly the retest.

Top Dog

Bpmull wrote: »

What way does the retest work is the few less or is it a full 87.16 euro again? At least it didn't fail on much I'm sure it will fly the retest.

He told me it'd be free within 20 days for what I failed on anyway. Dunno if it qualifies as just a visual and thats the reason. Not gonna complain though

Bpmull

Top Dog wrote: »

He told me it'd be free within 20 days for what I failed on anyway. Dunno if it qualifies as just a visual and thats the reason. Not gonna complain though

Ah that's fair enough then tbh. I wouldn't fancy forking out another 87 odd euro. My van isn't due till October but it will probably need a small bit of work before the test but hopefully nothing too serious.

dgt

Meh 106 needed a battery.... So I shoehorned in a lorrey battery :cool:



The damned thing not only weighs as much as the engine, it's also as big and probably more powerful :pac:

frank gallagher

new alloys - 18 rs4s on Bridgestones



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dr.fuzzenstein

Top Dog wrote: »

DOE time ... and she failed

Was expecting it to be worst though if I'm honest - passenger side track rod end and 1 of the rear numberplate lights (which was actually working).

So for those in the know, would I be fine just replacing the passenger side or should I really be doing both sides?

Number one rule for suspension and brakes:
Always replace in pairs. Track rod ends aren't expensive and if one is gone, chances are the other one won't be far behind.
At least according to the tall guy Ed.;)