Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
The "Today I did something to my car" thread
Options
Comments
-
-
Do you think it'd be any use in tackling something like this? Or anyone have any suggestions?challengemaster wrote: »Decided because my car was only washed last week, turtle wax wheel cleaner needed a better challenge....
The brown is burnt filings from metal on metal as my rear pad expired last Friday when I was 300 miles from home.
0 -
-
-
Will try pick up some next week so once the new discs & pads are onchallengemaster wrote: »I'd say it'd be worth a shot trying it anyway. Probably has more hope of lifting it than other normal cleaners
0 -
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
That sounds massive :eek:
I had plans ... good while ago.... get similar set up , but with subwoofer and amplifier.
What makes you think the ICE guy does not have an amp and woofers?
The big speakers you see are woofers. They normally go under seats of BMW E6x. The plan is to get them installed in my E39 with a bit of planning.
They are low profile, I am going to go rear shelf with them. Personally I am no fan of big woofers boxes sitting in the boot. Even integrated in one side or another. I need 100% of my boot space.
Anyways, what happened to your plan?0 -
What makes you think the ICE guy does not have an amp and woofers?
The big speakers you see are woofers. They normally go under seats of BMW E6x. The plan is to get them installed in my E39 with a bit of planning.
They are low profile, I am going to go rear shelf with them. Personally I am no fan of big woofers boxes sitting in the boot. Even integrated in one side or another. I need 100% of my boot space.
Anyways, what happened to your plan?
lack of euro notes :pac:
one my friend , he was living in USA for number years, and as hobby was participate in car audio quality competitions . , well he didnt get top levels, but some times won some events. .. he made a list with stuff what i needed, and places where to get .. some usa shops, some stuff ebay.. etc.... at the end, figures was around 800 euro, and he called it as a budged level
i said.. well, might later, when i'll i get some funds,.... my car cost even less 0 -
Advertisement
-
lack of euro notes :pac:
one my friend , he was living in USA for number years, and as hobby was participate in car audio quality competitions . , well he didnt get top levels, but some times won some events. .. he made a list with stuff what i needed, and places where to get .. some usa shops, some stuff ebay.. etc.... at the end, figures was around 800 euro, and he called it as a budged level i said.. well, might later, when i'll i get some funds,.... my car cost even less
Yeah high end stuff is expensive I know. I get those things at reseller price obviously, but still cost a fair bit of money.
As soon as we are talking DSP processors and all, prices just rockets up.
It is easy to reach 2000 euros on a full set up with DSP for an end customer with installation fee included. Sounds amazing, but not for every ones pockets.
But for 600 euros you can have a very nice set of speakers and a nice amp too. If you do things yourself, about 600 euros will get you some very nice set up. Not the best, but very good nonetheless.0 -
Great day outside so started doing some bits and bobs that have been sitting on the to do list.
Installed a Parrot hands free kit today Handy enough, didnt need any adaptors for in the Hyundai i30. Great guide here too
Decided I had to change the bulbs to a nicer white/blue color vs. ugly yellow. Meawhile doing that noticed the engine bay was qute dirty,so cleaned all the covers.
Seeing as the previous owner damaged the rear boot door card and the glove box I finally got around to replacing those with the spare parts I picked up a couple of weeks ago, simplest thing ever.
Tried looking for that Turtle Wax Ice Wheel cleaner stuff, but couldn't find any in my local halfords store.
Next up is servicing and a proper polish and wax session 0 -
-
-
-
-
CCV Valve System Replacement in a BMW 525iA Sport
After a bit of searching you will see that the main reasons to change the CCV valve are:
- Increased consumption of oil
- Smokey at idle
- Rough running at idle after starting on a cold day
- Erratic idle
- White residue build up on dipstick & underside of oil cap
Mine had the third issue. As you can see some of the symptoms above are consistent with other faults so be sure that you have thoroughly diagnosed the issue.
Don’t even think about changing the valve unless you are doing the entire system, the pipes get so brittle that it would be impossible to avoid breaking them. Plus I had a good look through mine and there were little bits of crud inside most of them partially blocking them. It is more or less a service item really.
The “kit” is the same for the M52 & M54 engines, identical parts. The M52 has an additional narrow rubber hose that goes from the CCV to the fuel pressure regulator, the M54 doesn’t need this, there’s a little rubber bung that you must remove from your old CCV & put on to the new one.
Here are the different elements to the kit:
No. Description Part Number
01 PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE 11617501566
02 Vent pipe 11611432559
03 Connecting line 11617504535
04 Vent hose 11157532649
07 Return pipe 11617504536
M52 only:
06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 11727545323
Note: The interaction of part #3 & #7 in the diagram above is wrong, just in case there is confusion.
Here is the "kit":
Total cost of the kit from BMW is €180 (without the M52 only pipe). There is a “cold climate” version of the kit; it is a few quid dearer as the pipes have insulation on them. I think if I was doing it again I’d go with the cold climate units.
There are some excellent DIY video tutorials on YouTube (links below) so it would be a bit of a waste putting together another document. I have instead decided to give a brief summary of what needs to be done while pointing out some areas to watch out for.
Steps:
1. Remove the airbox, MAF & associated rubber boots. The hardest part of this whole install is the loosening of the jubilee clips! When you get to the rubber boot that connects to the throttle body don’t forget to loosen the smaller pipe. Examine all the boots for cracks, especially the little one coming out of the “F” shaped connector into the intake boot. Replace any that look a bit damaged. After all, you are replacing a vacuum based system; the vacuum is only as good as the weakest point in the system. All the jubilee clips are a 6mm socket or a flat blade screwdriver.
2. Loosen the dipstick; a 10mm bolt holds it to the block. There is also an electrical cable feeding through a holder attached to the dipstick. IT is probably best just to remove it at this stage so it is out of the way. Just slice the rubber pipe going in to the dipstick (from the CCV) along the line of the pipe to make it easy to remove. Note: it is recommended that you clean out the dipstick unit as this will most likely be full of crud from years of service too. I used brake cleaner for this, followed by WD40 to clear out the brake fluid. The pipe attached to the dipstick assembly was pretty bad inside & in most guides it says this is the one that causes the most issues.
3. With the dipstick out of the way the next item you want to move out of the way is the electricl junction box in front of the throttle body & CCV. There are 2 x 10mm nuts holding this in place (on throttle body & onto a metal bracket of the DISA valve) & a 10mm bolt holds it on to the bracket by the purge valve. Plug out all the connections to give you maximum room to work. You can go to the trouble of labelling them if you wish but BMW uses the “poka yoke” system on the connectors which basically means it is idiot proof, you can’t plug the wrong one in to the wrong item. You should also pull the purge valve off the little metal hangar too, this will give you room to manoeuvre the little hose (#3) in to place later.
4. Next remove the throttle body, there is one connector & 4 x 10mm bolts. Wiggle it out & inspect the seal, replace if necessary. Now the CCV valvle should be visible.
5. Remove the intake manifold cover from the top of the engine; be careful not to drop one of the bolts like I did! There’s two 10mm bolts underneath the little trim pieces. You will see the pipe #7 with the foam insulation; the insulation has probably gone brittle though. Be careful not to break the connectors on the car side of the pipe, don’t worry about breaking the pipe, in fact it is easier to remove if you do. The same with the rest of the pipes; break them out while being careful of the car side connectors.
6. The CCV is held in place with 2 torx screws, one on the right as you look at it (throttle body side), & one at the top of CCV. Again, it is probably easier to break it in half to remove it.
7. Installation after this is pretty much the reverse, as they say.
Other things to note:
- The hardest pipe to refit is #3, the video guide talks about turning it through 90 degrees, however I found it easier to push fit it directly, it will snap fit in to place just like the rest with some careful persuasion!
- Clean the dipstick out, waste of time doing the job other wise
- Check boots & other piping for cracks
- You could take this opportunity to clean out the DISA valve while you’re at it.
- Check the rocker case ventilation neck for crud, clean it out.
- Be careful with the rubber boot that goes directly on to the throttle body, it is listed in Realoem.com & BMWfans.info as being discontinued with no alternative part number! It’s worth cleaning up the outside of the boots while you have them off & treat with some tyre dressing or something to protect the, I used AG Tyre Dressing spray.
- Replace the fuel tank breather valve line from the “F” connector on the intake boot, it’s probably rotten.
Results:
What did I notice immediately after fitting? Well, nothing, it started fine, it was smooth but it was also 14 degrees Celsius & I never had an issue at those temperatures before. Mind you the car had not been started in 10 days & it did start immediately & run very smoothly. So only good things were noticed! I’ll keep an eye on the starting situation over the coming weeks & the oil consumption, the car did use a little bit of oil, it has 147k miles on it now, not bad, especially by M54 standards.
Obligatory Photoshoot:
Crud inside broken CCV valve:
Narrow pipe where blanking tube needs to be placed for M54 or rubber tubing for fuel pressure regulator on M52:
CCV System in bits after removal (as it will be for yours too):
More crud in pip that goes to rocker cover:
All the bits that have to come out:
DIY Videos
These DIY videos require stereo speakers or headphones to hear the sound. These are for an e46 with the M54 engine, there's a bit more ripping in the e46 because there is less space but the rest of the job is identical.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
0 -
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
-
Surf developed some bad ass tramping from the back axle over the past few days, got very bad today with loud bangs, squeals & vibrations to match,
Got home from work and dropped out the rear prop (very safe, quick and easy job as I don't even have to jack it up to work under it )
At first I took off the prop at the diff end (rear) as it just butts up to the input shaft so is easy drop away, pulled at the uj and found no play and plenty of free movement,
had a pull at the input shaft and, the backlash is a little more than it should be, but theres no in-and-out movement or bearing play so i think its ok.
Noticed the diff breather is in an awful state so will do a diff oil change tomorrow and try sort the breather, must make sure to get lsd oil, as amazingly, after 200,000 miles the lsd still works :eek:
Then, satisfied that the rear uj was ok, I took off the front end of the prop, the yoke was very tight on the studs on the transfer box output, so took a few belts of the hammer to free it, this pointed to a sticky uj on the front end of the prop.
Got it off and low and behold, the front UJ is in sh!te, barely any movement one one axis, I'd say the previous time I changed it, I left some rollers fall over, it was my first time doing one and did it in the middle of the night in a hurry so Ill take the blame :pac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVaLC1_UZ68
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYyYRrbAY-A
New one going in tomorrow, ill take a pic or two of the process and throw them up sure.0 -
-
-
-
-
-
-
Follow up to #8866
So with the prop off, went to my local motor factors and picked up 2 UJ's,
Best to do them in pairs as if one wobbles it can throw off the other/ reduce its lifetime.
First it was up to the floor press - had nearly 14t & a lot of heat up on it before we gave up,
(may have forgotten to remove the circlips)
Moved away from the press and used a more persuasive tool:
Half way there
One New UJ ready to go in
Pressed in & Greased up
And bolted back on again
Just repeated the process for the far end (except I removed the circlips and pressed them out )
Ill fire a shot of grease into them at every oil change - (every 5k miles) and they'll be good for a long long time.
Its an easy job to do, all you need is some sockets & access to a bench vise or a floor press, of if you're a real bad ass/rough cnut you'd do them with a hammer.
Thanks for reading.0 -
Advertisement
-
A rather annoying clonk developed, gawking underneath revealed the engine movement limiter was flopping about, bolt loosened out! :eek: threadlock didn't do the job there
A sign to take the engine out again perhaps??? :pac:
Noticed my balljoint boots are beginning to perish, how??? They're less than 3 months old :mad:
At least the wishbones are sound...0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWXtiCwRH-k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amHwxoFAl7I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7AyOmqhlBk
This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement