Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
The "Today I did something to my car" thread
Comments
-
-
-
-
-
I took of the oil filter to fix a leak coming from the oil cooler. Thought it was the seal but the cooler was very loose wobbling about. Tightened up the nut holding the cooler to the bracket but couldn't get it off to replace the seals
. Hopefully tightening it up was enough. I was topping up a litre every 2000 miles before. 0 -
Advertisement
-
Just did the NCT on the 740i, passed first time. Whats nice is the virtually non-existent measured emissions, dropping from its last test in 2010. The engine is especially strong on this particular car.
I put the improvement down to:
- BG44k fuel treatment
- Engine Flush Oil
- Fresh Mobil 1 0w40 New Life
- New K&N Oil and Air filters.
13year old 4.4L V8 with 0.00% CO emissions on High Idle is not bad going!
The Engine temp is wrong as usual on NCT test results, assume they didnt put the temp probe in the engine bay/right place. It was at operating temp having driven 65km to the test centre.0 -
I hope I can report similar when our Shogun goes in for its DOE on SaturdayMatt Simis wrote: »Just did the NCT on the 740i, passed first time.
0 -
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
Got a small delivery from eBay this morning. Something I've been meaning to do with a while, but just haven't had the enthusiasm to get around to.
I wanted to swap out all the stock interior halogen bulbs for LED items.
The prices for this vary by quite some amount, but eventually I found a seller which offered every bulb for £25 plus postage so thought it was worth a punt.
Much to my surprise, it wasn't all that much effort to get at most of the bulbs, although one or two were a bit stubborn.
Halogen map light on left, LED on right.
Driver's vanity light, which I realised that the switch for turning it on when the mirror cover is slid across is a touch flakey. Will see to that shortly.
It's hard to capture the exact brightness of them, but they're pretty much on par with the standard lights just much whiter.
This is a pretty decent representation, without the street lighting throwing the white balance off.
The kit really does come with EVERY bulb needed : boot, rear dome & map lights, front dome & map lights, puddle lights, footwell lights and even one for the glovebox.
For the sake of half an hour and the bones of €30, it really does freshen up the interior completely.
Thanks for looking!0 -
-
Kudos Paddy.
You put a lot of time / effort / money in to that car.
Would you not rather invest in a 325 / 330 than a 2L daysul?
I regularly drive across the UK, so anything but a derv is out for the mean time. I've no intentions of ever selling it, so don't mind putting the few quid into it, especially as it doesn't stand me a single cent. It also means that I should be able to indulge something more ///M shaped in due course but for the mean time, there's nothing wrong with 200+BHP, 400Nm & 50MPG
0 -
Paddy@CIRL wrote: »I regularly drive across the UK, so anything but a derv is out for the mean time. I've no intentions of ever selling it, so don't mind putting the few quid into it, especially as it doesn't stand me a single cent. It also means that I should be able to indulge something more ///M shaped in due course but for the mean time, there's nothing wrong with 200+BHP, 400Nm & 50MPG
Yeah, but you make the rest of us jealous and that's not fair. Go buy a fiesta or somethin would ya!?0 -
-
-
-
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
I set about changing my air filter to a drop in k&n today and decided to get rid of the stock resonator box and run a cold air feed up while I was at it.
Oem v K&n
Bumper removal is fairly easy on the car, but the resonator is an absolute pain to get at, here it is hiding to the on front of the wheel arch looking like a ****e! Only 2 10mm bolts hold it in, but the shape of it makes it hard to remove
And out
Some people go with the Mugen or M&M scoops on fd2's which require removing the resonator & the brake cooling duct, but either kit will set you back the guts of €600+ so I went for the cheaper option of pvc tube
I was able to use the original rubber coming from the airbox to attach the pipe to, so looking down from the engine bay it looks stock and feeds directly into the airbox
But I had to cut off a corner of the brake duct to allow the feed to sit neatly and behind the vent on the front bumper
And where it sits with the bumper back on
So job done, gave the car a quick spin and it may be my imagination but it feels somewhat freer in mid-range, there's a slightly increased grumble in vtec too but for minimal cost and an afternoon in the sun I'm happy either ways!0 -
lowered the glanza again today for the summer please excuse the dirt, was going to wash it, but then i remembered its been raining since 2011 so i'd be wasting my time. the geometry is out by a country mile now, so will try and get a 4 wheel alignment before the week is out.
this is a medium mc donalds cup for perspective. hope it may go down a few more millimeters after a day or two.
0 -
-
-
-
Got yesterday's short list completed, along with giving it a wash, but since there was nothing even remotely interesting about that I never bothered with photos.
Today I've re-soldered & refitted the led's for hopefully the last time. Ended up having to use the spongy double-sided tape thats normally used for holding on number plates so hopefully this will actually stick! Also ran an extra power wire to the rear for future switched led strips that I'll be fitting into the storage unit and false floor.
For now I've put 2/3 of the storage unit back in along with some extra lashing points. Front part won't fit now as the false floor is no-longer there to support it. It'll do the job for a while anyway. :cool:
0 -
-
The effort that manufacturers put into getting the flow characteristics in the air intakes optimum just can't be improved or even matched by some hack I'm afraid.
Probably they made an improvement in the '70s or 80's when standard intakes and filters were crap and still probably had no effect on "performance" cars.
Ah so I'm not the only one who watched MCM.... Each to their own I say, I put one in the van for the sake of doing it. I brought it right down to the bumper and had ducting going straight to the filter. Nice sound from it with a decat
Time for a boring diesel pump update yay
A lot of pics so the 1st post is on how to remove the pump, the 2nd is on the pump itself
Sure it's also half a guide to change the timing belt on an XUD too!
First: The engine. Xantia DHX
Covers can be an arse to take off. Remove all the turbo piping for access to the 11mm bolt that isn't in this pic....
Rotate the engine to TDC. Holes on the cam sprocket, IP and flywheel will all line up. Flywheel locking is under the starter hence no pics of it, I use a broken screwdriver of about 5mm diameter to lock it. The bolt size to use for the sprockets is an M8 x 30 (you need the length... No that's what she said jokes :pac:) You can see I've lined them up in this pic. Conveniently, these driveshaft bolts from a Polo fit (sorry barura) and have a collar to protect both the threads and sprocket 
The tensioner is a brilliant idea: loosen the 2 13mm bolt and nut. Insert a 3/8 square drive into he tensioner and shove it back. Tighten the bolts while the tensioner is back!
While the belt is off, use a 21mm socket/spanner to lop off the nut holding the sprocket. Use a puller to remove the sprocket. And for goodness sake, don't lose the woodruff key!!!!
You can see in this pic that there are different holes for the Lucas pump
The pump is an arse to get off if everything hasn't been loosened or removed. Remove the injector lines, cold start advance assembly, fuel return and feed. Now locate and remove the 4 x 13mm nuts that hold the pump to the mount. Note you can rotate the pump foreward and backwards a total of approx 30 degrees
And it's out.... To the pump itself.... 0 -
Apologies for the blurry photos, diesel spilt on the E5. My left ear will smell funny for weeks
The pump: a semi ecu controlled type 494 pump. Tamerproofed :rolleyes:
But did someone say...
Tamperproofed?
Pah!
My aim for the evening was to open it up, see how it was and maybe get the head off. First, I had to disassemble the throttle arm assembly, max rpm screw and idle screw
This gave me access to the 4 allen bolts that hold the top of the pump in situ. Off!
Here is the 414 (Transit) pump beside the Xantia pump. Note how I discovered the 414 was full of NON DIESEL, that stuff essentially cleaned the insides of the pump. The Xantia pump ran on white derv all it's life and it shows
The max fuel screw unwound. This works by pushing on the collar for the plunger, allowing it to inject more fuel. The more travel, the more fuel it injects. Windit in too far the collar won't return far enough to allow idle. Couldn't be simpler to explain
Transit gov assembly vs the Xantia assembly
Transit spring beside the Xantia spring. Note the Transit cradle shaft has 2 seals as opposed to the Xantia's 1, a much better design IMO. I can't use it though, too short
Fitted. This will stop the fuel cutting off at high rpms
Plenty left to do, waiting for a socket to cool down so I can grind it some more 0 -
Advertisement
-
Oh I'm not saying that pod filters and cold air intakes don't sound better, there used to be a guy in school with the 1l, sounded fantastic :cool:, But if more power is what you want then I don't think they are the answer.
Fantastic work on your Durty Daysul pump BTW super interesting as always 0
This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement