STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

cavan4sam · 11-10-2012 01:45PM

up and running now heating approximately 12 rads and 3 4x4 rooms with heat travelling , it wasn't as messy as i 1st thought and my house is really cosy no

http://s1295.photobucket.com/albums/b628/cavan4sam1/?achttp://s1295.photobucket.com/albums/b628/cavan4sam1/?action=view&current=IMG_20120927_110729.jpgtion=view&current=IMG_20120920_113717.jpg

just waiting to get my pitch pine beam finished now. so one week on and all is complete

Kaylee · 11-10-2012 02:14PM

famlitsku wrote: »

Hi, we've just had a quote to put 2 stoves in and we think the installation costs are v. high. 2 5kw free-standing stoves as space heaters. I is to replace an existing stove; slate slab and flue in place, just needs max 2m of flue to connect it - installation cost 650 euro. The other is going in a fireplace; old 2 storey red brick house, chimney needs to be lined - quote of 1200 euro to install. What do you think?
Thanks!!

Hi, we got a quote of €400 just for labour to install a stove line the chimney (no connection to back boiler or rads). We kind of agreed to it but I feel that it's a bit expensive too... sorry I can't be of any assistance - it's just that I can relate :P

@ Stove Fan, your stove looks lovely and cosy, and that cat looks happy (lovely shiny coat too

) Every stove should come with a free cat to complete the picture

Stove Fan · 11-10-2012 02:59PM

wait4me wrote: »

She, who must (sometimes) be obeyed, likes the look of the Wander Marvic insert to replace an open fire in the sitting room. Anybody have one of these?

Second question regarding the installation of an insert. If we were to change the fireplace as well - what happens first - the stove insert or the new fireplace. I ask because we may source the insert from one retailer and the fireplace from another.

Third question regarding a stainless steel flue. This is to interpret "sales-talk". The fireplace is twenty years old - seldom used in the past. A retailer said that the Marvic insert does not need a full flue if the chimney is in good condition. (Reading threads here supports this view). He said that insulating the flue with a 45 degree turn is sometimes unsuccessful as the insulation often is hit-and-miss at the turn which can lead to corrosion of the flue. I would like to get everything done at the same time but would be worried about spending on money on a flue that is 1)not necessary and 2) potentially liable to corrode. I have better ways of corroding my money :eek: Views? Thanks

Hi, I haven't heard of that make stove. The fire surround would be installed first then the insert stove installed.
If your chimney is sound after a smoke pellet test/visual inspection then the insert should work fine as it is with the clay lined chimney.
It is a better job to line a chimney though with a flexible stainless liner as it keeps the flue gases warmer, clay lined absorbs the heat and can get condensation. Generally as well the clay lined chimney diameter is a lot larger sectional area than the stoves outlet.
The main thing is to do the appropriate test/inspection and follow manufacturers instructions.

Is the installer saying if you lined the chimney the backfill insulation may not get past a bend and hence not insulate the whole chimney length.

This can happen but I haven't heard of a liner corroding due to this. Insulating a liner isn't always necessary if the chimney is internal.

Stove Fan:)

wait4me · 11-10-2012 03:05PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Is the installer saying if you lined the chimney the backfill insulation may not get past a bend and hence not insulate the whole chimney length..

Stove Fan:)

The salesman is saying exactly that. I have not had an installer visit.

The chimney is on the party wall with the semi-d next door so I presume that's what you mean by internal

Stove Fan · 11-10-2012 03:16PM

ganger wrote: »

I am looking at non boiler stoves for an average size sitting room/kitchen .I see stanley have firebricks but a lot of other brands dont.The stanley we were looking at was the OSCAR also the CARA insert caught our eye.Any advice on other type of brands ,which all seem to be cheaper for some reason.

If you don't actually need a 7kw stove consider a morso squirrel 1410 or 1430 for the freestanding stove. Very well made cast iron stove. Produces 4.5kw.

For your insert there is the Aarrow ecoburn range.
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/ecoburn-range/ecoburn-inset.html
Or signature.
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/signature-range/signature-inset.html

Or a wonderful contura I4 Very nice stove and great company.
http://www.contura.eu/English/Stoves/Inserts/Insert-Contura-i4-Classic/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KDUmgpuERk (Modern frame)

I would certainly buy ones with firebrick/board linings inside as it protects the stoves casing from the extremes of the heat.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 11-10-2012 04:46PM

wait4me wrote: »

The salesman is saying exactly that. I have not had an installer visit.

The chimney is on the party wall with the semi-d next door so I presume that's what you mean by internal

Yes. To be honest backfilling a chimney attatched to the neighbours internally isn't going to be as critical to backfill the whole chimney with vermiculite as a chimney thats built externally.

Stove Fan:)

ltp · 11-10-2012 07:49PM

Hi Stovefan,
Have enjoyed all 101 pages of info so far and now I would like your advice. We have a 15 year old bungalow which we have just purchased. we have insulated attic with 200mm insulation on top of what was there and we have pumped the walls so in theory it should be warm but in reality it is not too snug. we want to install a triple coil cylinder with a view to installing solar panels at a later date when budget allows. For now we think we would like a boiler stove and have been shopping around. each shop has their own recommendations and we would like a neutral one.

Our radiators are as follows
Sitting room 180x50 Double. room size 5030 x 4120 large bay window double doors to Kitchen
Kitchen 160x50 Double and 90x50 single room size 3660 x 7390 with patio doors and 2 large windows.
Utility
Playroom 120x34 Single
Bedroom4 120x04 Single
Bedroom 3 110x50 Single
Bedroom2 120x50 Single
Bedroom 1 140x50 Single with bay window north facing 2 outside walls and is freezing cold
En suite 40x50 Single
Hall 140x50 Double
Bathroom 100x50 Single

What we have been recommended so far is
Nestor Martin harmony boiler 3 @ E1995 which seems huge and has thermostatic controls on the back
Charnwood country 16b @ E2150 which I an kind of soft on
Boru carraig mor 20kw @ E1250
yola 17 kw
Stanley reginald

I don't know which one as I have no experience of this I would like to try not to have the stove out too far out on the floor and I am willing to cut back into the chimney if required. All advice would be great fully appreciated keeping in mind a tight budget, amount of fuel required, frequency of re fuelling, longevity etc.

I intend to install it with twin wall flexi flue to chimney cap.
All advice welcome
Regards,
Lesley

AnnieBert · 11-10-2012 09:48PM

Hi there

we are looking to install two stoves in our home this autumn. We've consulted a few showrooms and it seems we'll need two 8KW stoves (though we suspect one of the rooms could do with an output up to 11kw as it has a pitched roof, large glass sliding doors and little insulation)

anyway, today we saw the following stoves and we are trying to work out whether the price differences are justifiable and whether over time we'd regret it if we went for the least expensive option

we saw : charnwood, hunter and henley stoves. They ranged in price from 1600 euro each down to 695 each for the henleys. Obviously a huge difference, especially with two stoves plus flues, lining, installation etc.

When we asked the (very helpful and pleasant) man in the showroom what the real difference (apart from price) between charnwood and henley he said it was really down to daily ease of use (controls etc) and the fact that henley are "made in china"

we can't figure out what this "made in china" thing really means. is it that the materials are not so good, or what? why is everyone so against it? (apple computers are mostly "made in china" after all)

anyway, really we'd like to know whether anyone has experience with henley and whether we would be throwing our money away if we were to buy those. biggest dread is having to replace the stove in a couple of years cause it was substandard

(that said the guy did say that he'd rate henley around the same as franco belge so presumably they are not all bad!)

Joe10000 · 12-10-2012 09:05AM

Stove Fan wrote: »

I don't, but the stove has to be sized to suit the heating load and also the stoves room output isn't too high for the room size it's going into.
If the room requires more heat than what the stove produces then a radiator would need to be installed.
It depends on the stove as to how often it would need refuelling. Ours needs refuelling every hour but some better makes are less and the worst makes every 30 minutes.
Quality stove= less attention needed and longer burn time.
With a boiler stove a lot of the heat is absorbed by the water in the boiler.
With our Ash I chuck it on the garden bank.
For fuel we used to stack the firewood in the garage and coal in a coal bunker.
When burning coal you need to empty the ashpan everyday, and the coal dust can cover the mantlepiece in a film of dust. Sprinkling the coal with the watering can helps greatly.
With burning wood only we empty the ashes once a week in the depth of winter. Wood is very clean but quite dear to buy.

I have heated 2 properties for the last 7 years with a boiler stove only and find it straightforward if you have the time to tend the fire. I find it cheaper than oil and love the focal point in the room.

Where we live there is no mains gas.
Here is ours lit:D

Ps I don't sell or install stoves either.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan for the detailed reply. Refuelling even every hour would not suit us so back to the drawing board.

Has anyone experience of non bolier insert stove of the type you would put in an internal wall heating more then one room ?

Criss Cross · 12-10-2012 10:08AM

Hi folks,

Is it possible to have two oil stoves back to back on one flue? At the moment, I have an oil stove in my kitchen which taps into the chimney. I'd like to put an oil stove in the living room that would back onto that at the same level. My chimney only has one flue. It's a two story house.

I've searched other fora and websites, which all warn against multiple stoves / boilers etc, but the examples refer to a mix of solid fuel stoves, fireplaces etc. Is it wishful thinking that it would be different for two oil stoves?

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 12:15PM

ltp wrote: »

Hi Stovefan,
Have enjoyed all 101 pages of info so far and now I would like your advice. We have a 15 year old bungalow which we have just purchased. we have insulated attic with 200mm insulation on top of what was there and we have pumped the walls so in theory it should be warm but in reality it is not too snug. we want to install a triple coil cylinder with a view to installing solar panels at a later date when budget allows. For now we think we would like a boiler stove and have been shopping around. each shop has their own recommendations and we would like a neutral one.

Our radiators are as follows
Sitting room 180x50 Double. room size 5030 x 4120 large bay window double doors to Kitchen
Kitchen 160x50 Double and 90x50 single room size 3660 x 7390 with patio doors and 2 large windows.
Utility
Playroom 120x34 Single
Bedroom4 120x04 Single
Bedroom 3 110x50 Single
Bedroom2 120x50 Single
Bedroom 1 140x50 Single with bay window north facing 2 outside walls and is freezing cold
En suite 40x50 Single
Hall 140x50 Double
Bathroom 100x50 Single

What we have been recommended so far is
Nestor Martin harmony boiler 3 @ E1995 which seems huge and has thermostatic controls on the back
Charnwood country 16b @ E2150 which I an kind of soft on
Boru carraig mor 20kw @ E1250
yola 17 kw
Stanley reginald

I don't know which one as I have no experience of this I would like to try not to have the stove out too far out on the floor and I am willing to cut back into the chimney if required. All advice would be great fully appreciated keeping in mind a tight budget, amount of fuel required, frequency of re fuelling, longevity etc.

I intend to install it with twin wall flexi flue to chimney cap.
All advice welcome
Regards,
Lesley

Hi, You are looking for a stove with a rated boiler output of 10.5kw to include your hot water.
Your room requires around 3kw to heat the room. With the double doors open to the kitchen you should hopefully be ok to go for a higher heat output up to 6kw max.
I personally would choose the Aarrow EB12HE. 12kw to water up to 6kw to room. Compact size and reasonable quality.
Or the Dunsley highlander 10Ch.
10.5kw to water 3.9kw to room.
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/highlander10CHmultifuelstove.html
I would change the single rad in bedroom1 to a double 500x1400 with thermostatic rad valve:D.
I wouldn't go with Yola, Boru or Hunter. Hunter isn't a great stove for controlability and you often hear this is a problem with this brand. 1600 euro is crazy. The Yola and boru I have no experiance but would buy a well known brand name.
The country 16b would provide too much heat to room and to be honest the country 16b isn't Charnwoods premium range.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 12:16PM

Criss Cross wrote: »

Hi folks,

Is it possible to have two oil stoves back to back on one flue? At the moment, I have an oil stove in my kitchen which taps into the chimney. I'd like to put an oil stove in the living room that would back onto that at the same level. My chimney only has one flue. It's a two story house.

I've searched other fora and websites, which all warn against multiple stoves / boilers etc, but the examples refer to a mix of solid fuel stoves, fireplaces etc. Is it wishful thinking that it would be different for two oil stoves?

A definate NO!! 2 appliances must never share one flue, must have one for each stove/fire/ boiler etc.

Stove Fan:)

Kaylee · 12-10-2012 01:41PM

We are getting a Clearview Stove fitted onto existing fireplace... (see pic)

We decided to take the advice of the installer and just put the stove on the hearth, paint the brass surround black to match the stove and clean the Sandstone hearth and surround.

Now... (this is going to sound a bit flakey

) I'm having second thoughts - I'm not sure how good this is going to look, and I feel that maybe we should do something to make the stove feel somehow more part of the fireplace and not just plonked on the hearth, if you know what I mean...

I'm thinking of taking the fireplace and hearth away altogether and just getting the surround plastered and maybe putting black tiles around the opening and getting a slate hearth (where would I get one of these

)

Anybody have any opinions or assistance at all...

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 01:51PM

AnnieBert wrote: »

Hi there

we are looking to install two stoves in our home this autumn. We've consulted a few showrooms and it seems we'll need two 8KW stoves (though we suspect one of the rooms could do with an output up to 11kw as it has a pitched roof, large glass sliding doors and little insulation)

anyway, today we saw the following stoves and we are trying to work out whether the price differences are justifiable and whether over time we'd regret it if we went for the least expensive option

we saw : charnwood, hunter and henley stoves. They ranged in price from 1600 euro each down to 695 each for the henleys. Obviously a huge difference, especially with two stoves plus flues, lining, installation etc.

When we asked the (very helpful and pleasant) man in the showroom what the real difference (apart from price) between charnwood and henley he said it was really down to daily ease of use (controls etc) and the fact that henley are "made in china"

we can't figure out what this "made in china" thing really means. is it that the materials are not so good, or what? why is everyone so against it? (apple computers are mostly "made in china" after all)

anyway, really we'd like to know whether anyone has experience with henley and whether we would be throwing our money away if we were to buy those. biggest dread is having to replace the stove in a couple of years cause it was substandard

(that said the guy did say that he'd rate henley around the same as franco belge so presumably they are not all bad!)

Hi, Charnwood is a great make especially the Country four/C4, Cove and island range. I would highly rate these models.
Hunter I wouldn't buy as the control on the fire isn't in the same league as a premium brand like charnwood. 1600 euro for a hunter is mad.

Buying a premium well known and regarded make your buying a tried and tested manufacturer with a renowned reputation. You get better technology better more simple fire controls hence more controllable burn rate so saving you fuel/money and made out of quality sourced materials, generally made in their own factory, not cheaply cast in China, slapped in a ship and assembled or then just sold.
With good manufacturers you know you will be able to still buy spare parts in 10 years or more time and the company will be still in buisiness. With cheaper stoves who knows if the stove manufacturer won't go bust along with any warranty or spare parts?

Another manufacturer I like is woodwarm
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/
Morso.
http://morso.co.uk/
Charnwood.
http://www.charnwood.com/
Clearview.
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/
People really rate clearview!!

www.whatstove.co.uk

Franco belge to me is also overpriced.

I always think you get what you pay for:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 02:08PM

Kaylee wrote: »

We are getting a Clearview Stove fitted onto existing fireplace... (see pic)

We decided to take the advice of the installer and just put the stove on the hearth, paint the brass surround black to match the stove and clean the Sandstone hearth and surround.

Now... (this is going to sound a bit flakey ) I'm having second thoughts - I'm not sure how good this is going to look, and I feel that maybe we should do something to make the stove feel somehow more part of the fireplace and not just plonked on the hearth, if you know what I mean...

I'm thinking of taking the fireplace and hearth away altogether and just getting the surround plastered and maybe putting black tiles around the opening and getting a slate hearth (where would I get one of these )

Anybody have any opinions or assistance at all...

Great choice in stove, they are Fab:D

With regards to your fireplace opening it out inside could be a big job depending on the age of the house. If the house is pre 60's you may well be able to enlarge the opening to install a freestanding stove into,much easier than a newer home, due to the fact a new home is built around a 16or 18 inch fireback for an open fire and the blockwork is structural near the opening and supports a concrete flue gatherer for supporting the clay liners.
If you look up your chimney and you see a flat concrete like support with a circular hole in for the flue you have a recent home which is much harder to enlarge.
With an older home you can knock out the secondary infill/rubble/brickwork up to the old original builders opening and hence create a large opening for the stove.
A messy job and a full days work for a simple job to 3 days for a big job.

Which model are you going for? Pioneer, solution or vision?

The only thing I will say is you should have minimum 225mm hearth infront of the stove and some manufacturers insist on 300mm infront of the stove.

Stove Fan:)

Kaylee · 12-10-2012 02:45PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Great choice in stove, they are Fab:D

With regards to your fireplace opening it out inside could be a big job depending on the age of the house. If the house is pre 60's you may well be able to enlarge the opening to install a freestanding stove into,much easier than a newer home, due to the fact a new home is built around a 16or 18 inch fireback for an open fire and the blockwork is structural near the opening and supports a concrete flue gatherer for supporting the clay liners.
If you look up your chimney and you see a flat concrete like support with a circular hole in for the flue you have a recent home which is much harder to enlarge.
With an older home you can knock out the secondary infill/rubble/brickwork up to the old original builders opening and hence create a large opening for the stove.
A messy job and a full days work for a simple job to 3 days for a big job.

Which model are you going for? Pioneer, solution or vision?

The only thing I will say is you should have minimum 225mm hearth infront of the stove and some manufacturers insist on 300mm infront of the stove.

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan,

We are going for the Pioneer 400 as the room is quite small, but it should still heat the dining/kitchen with double doors open (so we're told!

). The house is only 10 years old and it is indeed a big job to open out the fireplace the flue gatherer is low down.

At this stage, we have kind of accepted the fact that we won't recess the stove, but now we're just wondering if we should take fireplace away, plaster the wall and have no fireplace and just make the stove the focus... just an aesthetic thing but we will have to look at this for the next few
years!

What do you think - how are your room design skills

serious3 · 12-10-2012 03:20PM

lads i've been looking at getting a stove without a boiler for a while but as i'm not working its been a slow process, the wifes cousin is emmigrating and has offerd us his stanley tara boiler stove, thing is we are not set up for a boiler stove at all, no rads in the house other than 2 storage rads. its coming to me for a realy realy good price with all the bits to fit it to my open fireplace. question is can i use the boiler stove as a non boiler? i read you can fill it with sand? or would it be better to remove it altogether and replace it with fire bricks?

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 04:55PM

Kaylee wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

We are going for the Pioneer 400 as the room is quite small, but it should still heat the dining/kitchen with double doors open (so we're told! ). The house is only 10 years old and it is indeed a big job to open out the fireplace the flue gatherer is low down.

At this stage, we have kind of accepted the fact that we won't recess the stove, but now we're just wondering if we should take fireplace away, plaster the wall and have no fireplace and just make the stove the focus... just an aesthetic thing but we will have to look at this for the next few
years!

What do you think - how are your room design skills

Basic:D To be honest the existing fireplace is rather bulky and taking it out would allow extra depth, so in this regard it would be a plus as the stove could sit further back. You could use slate for the hearth or slate tiles and keep it simple and emulsion the chimneybreast, in a colour if feeling adventurous:D

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 05:02PM

serious3 wrote: »

lads i've been looking at getting a stove without a boiler for a while but as i'm not working its been a slow process, the wifes cousin is emmigrating and has offerd us his stanley tara boiler stove, thing is we are not set up for a boiler stove at all, no rads in the house other than 2 storage rads. its coming to me for a realy realy good price with all the bits to fit it to my open fireplace. question is can i use the boiler stove as a non boiler? i read you can fill it with sand? or would it be better to remove it altogether and replace it with fire bricks?

If you want to use the boiler at a later date then don't use the stove without the boiler connected to the rads and water in it.
Even filling the boiler with sand isn't totally succesful as it's virtually impossible to fill all the boiler. You risk knackering the boiler. I would imagine this boiler is a wraparound/integral ie part of the stove and not removable, unless it's a small clip in one for hot water only.

Stove Fan:)

serious3 · 12-10-2012 08:23PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

If you want to use the boiler at a later date then don't use the stove without the boiler connected to the rads and water in it.
Even filling the boiler with sand isn't totally succesful as it's virtually impossible to fill all the boiler. You risk knackering the boiler. I would imagine this boiler is a wraparound/integral ie part of the stove and not removable, unless it's a small clip in one for hot water only.

Stove Fan:)

dont plan on ever using the boiler to be honest. the house was never built or planned to have radiators in it. reckon i'll take a chance on it

Stove Fan · 12-10-2012 11:12PM

serious3 wrote: »

dont plan on ever using the boiler to be honest. the house was never built or planned to have radiators in it. reckon i'll take a chance on it

If you are doing that make sure that the boiler outlets are not obstructed and that they are left unsealed. Some people/plumbers have capped the boiler outlets and the residual water inside has expanded due to the fire lit and caused an explosion with fatal results as the expanding water had nowhere to escape.
Also be aware if the internal part of the boiler corrodes that it could well leak out carbon monoxide through the boiler outlets:eek:.

Filling with sand is fine.

It may be better to sell, as a boiler stove is worth more than a non boiler and then buy a non boiler version.

Stove Fan:)

kali23 · 14-10-2012 04:22PM

Hi Stove Fan

I am hoping that you will be able to advise me on which stoves to choose for my new build. I am looking for a boiler and non-boiler stove. I have 15 single rads to heat and the hot water for the house. I have a 60 tube solar system installed with a 400 litre cylinder. The house is very well insulated, the 4 inch cavity walls will be pumped and there is 3 inch density board on the internal walls along with 1/2" ply and 1/2" plasterboard.

The stove with a boiler is for the kitchen and the dimensions are as follows:
18ft x 30ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft high. There are 4 velux Mo6 windows in the roof with 4-inch density board between the rafters and 2 inch plasterboard over that. There is a single rad in this room. There are 2m french doors off this room and double doors into the hallway and a door to the utility.

The sitting room is where the non-boiler stove is going and the dimensions are as follows:
15ft x 20ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft also. There is 1 velux window here and 1 single rad. Roof insulated as per kitchen. There is a composite front door off this room but will not be used as we only had to keep it for planning reasons. There are double doors into the hallway also.

The hallway is also a vaulted room (14ft) and measures 13ft x 30ft with 2 single rads and 4 Mo8 velux.

All windows through out the house are double glazed argon gas filled K glass.

Hopefully you can point me in the right direction as the number of stoves out there has totally confused me to date.

Tuckmilltown · 14-10-2012 07:04PM

philr87 wrote: »

Thanks for the advice Stove Fan:)
The gravity flow will be copper as the qualpex couldn't take the direct heat direct heat from the boiler.We have the qualpex in floor as return will be cool enough for it.Would you recommend crossing the flow and return rather than having them on the same side of stove?I just looked at the oil boiler and it looks like it has a pressure vessel in it.If thats the case I assume I cant fit this stove to the system as it is.I was looking on system links website earlier and came across the "Heat Genie". I think this allows you to connect a stove to a pressurised system without modifying it...I'm going to ring them tomorrow about it.Have you ever heard about it?

I've read about the "heat genie" heat transfer system for linking a stove to a pressurised system on www.systemlink.ie and would be interested in any info you have got on that system..
I also have a pressurised system and am researching how to add in a stove..
I have systemlink at the moment for my zones...

Stove Fan · 16-10-2012 10:43AM

kali23 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan

I am hoping that you will be able to advise me on which stoves to choose for my new build. I am looking for a boiler and non-boiler stove. I have 15 single rads to heat and the hot water for the house. I have a 60 tube solar system installed with a 400 litre cylinder. The house is very well insulated, the 4 inch cavity walls will be pumped and there is 3 inch density board on the internal walls along with 1/2" ply and 1/2" plasterboard.

The stove with a boiler is for the kitchen and the dimensions are as follows:
18ft x 30ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft high. There are 4 velux Mo6 windows in the roof with 4-inch density board between the rafters and 2 inch plasterboard over that. There is a single rad in this room. There are 2m french doors off this room and double doors into the hallway and a door to the utility.

The sitting room is where the non-boiler stove is going and the dimensions are as follows:
15ft x 20ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft also. There is 1 velux window here and 1 single rad. Roof insulated as per kitchen. There is a composite front door off this room but will not be used as we only had to keep it for planning reasons. There are double doors into the hallway also.

The hallway is also a vaulted room (14ft) and measures 13ft x 30ft with 2 single rads and 4 Mo8 velux.

All windows through out the house are double glazed argon gas filled K glass.

Hopefully you can point me in the right direction as the number of stoves out there has totally confused me to date.

For your kitchen stove with boiler this room size requires 8-10kw to heat it.
For the boiler stove here I would chose this stove The EB20HE.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/stoves.html
16kw to water burning wood 20kw to water burning coal. 3-10kw to room, so within your 8-10 room heat requirements.
You may also depending on if you have very large single rads consider the EB25HE. Slightly more room heat (10-12kw) but up to 25kw to water.
I myself though would calculate the rad sizes to get an idea. The rad in the kitchen would be switched off as the stove would heat this room.

For your sitting room I would go for a stove between 4.5kw-6kw.

You may like a Morso squirrel 4.5kw.
http://morso.co.uk/product/morso-1410/?thankyou
Or,
Charnwood Island 1 with external air supply!!
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-i.aspx
Or,
http://www.charnwood.com/range/cfour.aspx

Charnwood island, cove is a great stove but pricy but do have the external air supply option.
I myself would buy a woodwarm fireview 6kw.
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/6kw.ashx
Available with add on canopy, legs. Available in painted colours. The grate is a multiroll and can be set for just wood or open for coal. The glass is double glazed and has a great airwash to keep it clean.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pP7MVjL6BWM I myself like the flat top with add on legs.

There are many stoves out there some with external air option like stanley, charnwood etc, but rather limited on boiler size. Unfortunately the stoves mentioned above do not have an external air option and so would require a air vent. If this is the case I would install the vent behind the TV or stove.
You do really need a site visit to confirm stove size and boiler output.

Stove Fan:)

winster · 16-10-2012 10:46AM

Hi.

Anyone any experience of the inis stoves. Am looking at the inis Meain roomheater.

Thanks

Stove Fan · 16-10-2012 11:05AM

Tuckmilltown wrote: »

I've read about the "heat genie" heat transfer system for linking a stove to a pressurised system on www.systemlink.ie and would be interested in any info you have got on that system..
I also have a pressurised system and am researching how to add in a stove..
I have systemlink at the moment for my zones...

From looking it seems safe as the boiler stove is still open vented with cold water feed and expansion tank and secondly, in a no power supply it has cold water injected into the heating system to cool the system and drains some water out. It really though relies on a good water supply pressure.

It does look though as if it could be expensive to plumb in.

There are stoves for pressurised systems like Broseley with the cold water intected into a coil in the stoves backboiler in an overheat.
http://www.broseleyfires.com/Link-Up-Systems.html
Plus.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-Classic-Series-Freestanding-Stoves.html

Might be worth emailing Woodfire and Brosely as to how you link their stoves to your heating system:). Might be simpler than the heat genie?

Stove Fan:)

kali23 · 16-10-2012 11:29AM

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks so much for that advice. This is probably a very silly question but how do I arrange a site visit, who would do that?

cassius22000 · 16-10-2012 01:11PM

I've tried to read as much of the tread as possible, but with over 100 pages there's a lot to get through so I apologies if I'm covering old ground.

I am building a new house and I am considering installing a duel heating system, i.e. mains gas and a boiler stove. However, I've discovered there's a lot more to consider when looking at stoves than I anticipated! For a start I've seen a seen a few posts suggesting that people with mains gas may be better off without a boiler stove. The plan was to put in a stove to mitigate the increasing cost of gas over the next fifteen years, but I wonder if the running costs of a stove would out weight the potential benefits.

The details of the house are as follows:

Dormer Bungalow approx 170sqm in size (109sqm downstairs). It's a brick construction, will be well insulated (A rated) and should be air tight.

The stove would be located in the sitting room, which is approx 263sqm in size. That room will have double doors. The hot press is located upstairs.

The number and size of the radiators hasn't been finalised yet, but it will probably be:

Downstairs
3 Large Double
3 Medium Double
1 Small Single

Upstairs
2 Large Double
2 Medium Double
1 Small Single

I'd imagine that the stove would mainly be used during the coldest parts of winter and over the weekends when people are home all day. As the stove wouldn't be the primary source of heating there would be a radiator in the sitting room. Ideally it would be nice to be able to use the gas for the first hour to give faster heat while the fire warms up (if that's even possible).

I took a trip into my local stove stockist and they suggested a couple of Hunter stoves; the Herald 14 Central Heating Stoves and the Herald 80b Central Heating Stove.Does anyone have any feedback on these models? Looking online I've seen stoves like the Henley Blasket stove that looks like it would have a similar output too. The room output of some of these stoves seems quite high. Would they be too large for the sitting room?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

opr · 16-10-2012 03:41PM

Hi

Could someone give me some recommendations please. Looking to put in an inset Solid Fuel Stove where we currently have an open fire which is sized 16 inches.

Room size is 20 ft long and 10 ft wide and ceiling height 10ft. No boiler or radiators just used as a room heater.

Any advice welcome.

Opr

Stove Fan · 16-10-2012 04:06PM

kali23 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks so much for that advice. This is probably a very silly question but how do I arrange a site visit, who would do that?

Try and get a stove shop to visit your home. They should know what size to install and hopefully have an in house stove installer or know of someone to install it. This should be a free quotation.

Or your plumber in the local area may suggest and install one of your choice. Ie suggest ones suitable and then install for you.

Basically phone stove supply shops and local plumbers for a price to install and then they may suggest a stove size suitable or a stove as well.

Stove Fan:)

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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