famlitsku wrote: » Hi, we've just had a quote to put 2 stoves in and we think the installation costs are v. high. 2 5kw free-standing stoves as space heaters. I is to replace an existing stove; slate slab and flue in place, just needs max 2m of flue to connect it - installation cost 650 euro. The other is going in a fireplace; old 2 storey red brick house, chimney needs to be lined - quote of 1200 euro to install. What do you think? Thanks!!
wait4me wrote: » She, who must (sometimes) be obeyed, likes the look of the Wander Marvic insert to replace an open fire in the sitting room. Anybody have one of these? Second question regarding the installation of an insert. If we were to change the fireplace as well - what happens first - the stove insert or the new fireplace. I ask because we may source the insert from one retailer and the fireplace from another. Third question regarding a stainless steel flue. This is to interpret "sales-talk". The fireplace is twenty years old - seldom used in the past. A retailer said that the Marvic insert does not need a full flue if the chimney is in good condition. (Reading threads here supports this view). He said that insulating the flue with a 45 degree turn is sometimes unsuccessful as the insulation often is hit-and-miss at the turn which can lead to corrosion of the flue. I would like to get everything done at the same time but would be worried about spending on money on a flue that is 1)not necessary and 2) potentially liable to corrode. I have better ways of corroding my money :eek: Views? Thanks
Stove Fan wrote: » Is the installer saying if you lined the chimney the backfill insulation may not get past a bend and hence not insulate the whole chimney length.. Stove Fan:)
ganger wrote: » I am looking at non boiler stoves for an average size sitting room/kitchen .I see stanley have firebricks but a lot of other brands dont.The stanley we were looking at was the OSCAR also the CARA insert caught our eye.Any advice on other type of brands ,which all seem to be cheaper for some reason.
wait4me wrote: » The salesman is saying exactly that. I have not had an installer visit. The chimney is on the party wall with the semi-d next door so I presume that's what you mean by internal
Stove Fan wrote: » I don't, but the stove has to be sized to suit the heating load and also the stoves room output isn't too high for the room size it's going into. If the room requires more heat than what the stove produces then a radiator would need to be installed. It depends on the stove as to how often it would need refuelling. Ours needs refuelling every hour but some better makes are less and the worst makes every 30 minutes. Quality stove= less attention needed and longer burn time. With a boiler stove a lot of the heat is absorbed by the water in the boiler. With our Ash I chuck it on the garden bank. For fuel we used to stack the firewood in the garage and coal in a coal bunker. When burning coal you need to empty the ashpan everyday, and the coal dust can cover the mantlepiece in a film of dust. Sprinkling the coal with the watering can helps greatly. With burning wood only we empty the ashes once a week in the depth of winter. Wood is very clean but quite dear to buy. I have heated 2 properties for the last 7 years with a boiler stove only and find it straightforward if you have the time to tend the fire. I find it cheaper than oil and love the focal point in the room. Where we live there is no mains gas. Here is ours lit:D Ps I don't sell or install stoves either. Stove Fan:)
ltp wrote: » Hi Stovefan, Have enjoyed all 101 pages of info so far and now I would like your advice. We have a 15 year old bungalow which we have just purchased. we have insulated attic with 200mm insulation on top of what was there and we have pumped the walls so in theory it should be warm but in reality it is not too snug. we want to install a triple coil cylinder with a view to installing solar panels at a later date when budget allows. For now we think we would like a boiler stove and have been shopping around. each shop has their own recommendations and we would like a neutral one. Our radiators are as follows Sitting room 180x50 Double. room size 5030 x 4120 large bay window double doors to Kitchen Kitchen 160x50 Double and 90x50 single room size 3660 x 7390 with patio doors and 2 large windows. Utility Playroom 120x34 Single Bedroom4 120x04 Single Bedroom 3 110x50 Single Bedroom2 120x50 Single Bedroom 1 140x50 Single with bay window north facing 2 outside walls and is freezing cold En suite 40x50 Single Hall 140x50 Double Bathroom 100x50 Single What we have been recommended so far is Nestor Martin harmony boiler 3 @ E1995 which seems huge and has thermostatic controls on the back Charnwood country 16b @ E2150 which I an kind of soft on Boru carraig mor 20kw @ E1250 yola 17 kw Stanley reginald I don't know which one as I have no experience of this I would like to try not to have the stove out too far out on the floor and I am willing to cut back into the chimney if required. All advice would be great fully appreciated keeping in mind a tight budget, amount of fuel required, frequency of re fuelling, longevity etc. I intend to install it with twin wall flexi flue to chimney cap. All advice welcome Regards, Lesley
Criss Cross wrote: » Hi folks, Is it possible to have two oil stoves back to back on one flue? At the moment, I have an oil stove in my kitchen which taps into the chimney. I'd like to put an oil stove in the living room that would back onto that at the same level. My chimney only has one flue. It's a two story house. I've searched other fora and websites, which all warn against multiple stoves / boilers etc, but the examples refer to a mix of solid fuel stoves, fireplaces etc. Is it wishful thinking that it would be different for two oil stoves?
AnnieBert wrote: » Hi there we are looking to install two stoves in our home this autumn. We've consulted a few showrooms and it seems we'll need two 8KW stoves (though we suspect one of the rooms could do with an output up to 11kw as it has a pitched roof, large glass sliding doors and little insulation) anyway, today we saw the following stoves and we are trying to work out whether the price differences are justifiable and whether over time we'd regret it if we went for the least expensive option we saw : charnwood, hunter and henley stoves. They ranged in price from 1600 euro each down to 695 each for the henleys. Obviously a huge difference, especially with two stoves plus flues, lining, installation etc. When we asked the (very helpful and pleasant) man in the showroom what the real difference (apart from price) between charnwood and henley he said it was really down to daily ease of use (controls etc) and the fact that henley are "made in china" we can't figure out what this "made in china" thing really means. is it that the materials are not so good, or what? why is everyone so against it? (apple computers are mostly "made in china" after all) anyway, really we'd like to know whether anyone has experience with henley and whether we would be throwing our money away if we were to buy those. biggest dread is having to replace the stove in a couple of years cause it was substandard (that said the guy did say that he'd rate henley around the same as franco belge so presumably they are not all bad!)
Kaylee wrote: » We are getting a Clearview Stove fitted onto existing fireplace... (see pic) We decided to take the advice of the installer and just put the stove on the hearth, paint the brass surround black to match the stove and clean the Sandstone hearth and surround. Now... (this is going to sound a bit flakey ) I'm having second thoughts - I'm not sure how good this is going to look, and I feel that maybe we should do something to make the stove feel somehow more part of the fireplace and not just plonked on the hearth, if you know what I mean... I'm thinking of taking the fireplace and hearth away altogether and just getting the surround plastered and maybe putting black tiles around the opening and getting a slate hearth (where would I get one of these ) Anybody have any opinions or assistance at all...
Stove Fan wrote: » Great choice in stove, they are Fab:D With regards to your fireplace opening it out inside could be a big job depending on the age of the house. If the house is pre 60's you may well be able to enlarge the opening to install a freestanding stove into,much easier than a newer home, due to the fact a new home is built around a 16or 18 inch fireback for an open fire and the blockwork is structural near the opening and supports a concrete flue gatherer for supporting the clay liners. If you look up your chimney and you see a flat concrete like support with a circular hole in for the flue you have a recent home which is much harder to enlarge. With an older home you can knock out the secondary infill/rubble/brickwork up to the old original builders opening and hence create a large opening for the stove. A messy job and a full days work for a simple job to 3 days for a big job. Which model are you going for? Pioneer, solution or vision? The only thing I will say is you should have minimum 225mm hearth infront of the stove and some manufacturers insist on 300mm infront of the stove. Stove Fan:)
Kaylee wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, We are going for the Pioneer 400 as the room is quite small, but it should still heat the dining/kitchen with double doors open (so we're told! ). The house is only 10 years old and it is indeed a big job to open out the fireplace the flue gatherer is low down. At this stage, we have kind of accepted the fact that we won't recess the stove, but now we're just wondering if we should take fireplace away, plaster the wall and have no fireplace and just make the stove the focus... just an aesthetic thing but we will have to look at this for the next few years! What do you think - how are your room design skills
serious3 wrote: » lads i've been looking at getting a stove without a boiler for a while but as i'm not working its been a slow process, the wifes cousin is emmigrating and has offerd us his stanley tara boiler stove, thing is we are not set up for a boiler stove at all, no rads in the house other than 2 storage rads. its coming to me for a realy realy good price with all the bits to fit it to my open fireplace. question is can i use the boiler stove as a non boiler? i read you can fill it with sand? or would it be better to remove it altogether and replace it with fire bricks?
Stove Fan wrote: » If you want to use the boiler at a later date then don't use the stove without the boiler connected to the rads and water in it. Even filling the boiler with sand isn't totally succesful as it's virtually impossible to fill all the boiler. You risk knackering the boiler. I would imagine this boiler is a wraparound/integral ie part of the stove and not removable, unless it's a small clip in one for hot water only. Stove Fan:)
serious3 wrote: » dont plan on ever using the boiler to be honest. the house was never built or planned to have radiators in it. reckon i'll take a chance on it
philr87 wrote: » Thanks for the advice Stove Fan:) The gravity flow will be copper as the qualpex couldn't take the direct heat direct heat from the boiler.We have the qualpex in floor as return will be cool enough for it.Would you recommend crossing the flow and return rather than having them on the same side of stove?I just looked at the oil boiler and it looks like it has a pressure vessel in it.If thats the case I assume I cant fit this stove to the system as it is.I was looking on system links website earlier and came across the "Heat Genie". I think this allows you to connect a stove to a pressurised system without modifying it...I'm going to ring them tomorrow about it.Have you ever heard about it?
kali23 wrote: » Hi Stove Fan I am hoping that you will be able to advise me on which stoves to choose for my new build. I am looking for a boiler and non-boiler stove. I have 15 single rads to heat and the hot water for the house. I have a 60 tube solar system installed with a 400 litre cylinder. The house is very well insulated, the 4 inch cavity walls will be pumped and there is 3 inch density board on the internal walls along with 1/2" ply and 1/2" plasterboard. The stove with a boiler is for the kitchen and the dimensions are as follows: 18ft x 30ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft high. There are 4 velux Mo6 windows in the roof with 4-inch density board between the rafters and 2 inch plasterboard over that. There is a single rad in this room. There are 2m french doors off this room and double doors into the hallway and a door to the utility. The sitting room is where the non-boiler stove is going and the dimensions are as follows: 15ft x 20ft with a vaulted ceiling of 14ft also. There is 1 velux window here and 1 single rad. Roof insulated as per kitchen. There is a composite front door off this room but will not be used as we only had to keep it for planning reasons. There are double doors into the hallway also. The hallway is also a vaulted room (14ft) and measures 13ft x 30ft with 2 single rads and 4 Mo8 velux. All windows through out the house are double glazed argon gas filled K glass. Hopefully you can point me in the right direction as the number of stoves out there has totally confused me to date.
Tuckmilltown wrote: » I've read about the "heat genie" heat transfer system for linking a stove to a pressurised system on www.systemlink.ie and would be interested in any info you have got on that system.. I also have a pressurised system and am researching how to add in a stove.. I have systemlink at the moment for my zones...
kali23 wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, Thanks so much for that advice. This is probably a very silly question but how do I arrange a site visit, who would do that?
