STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Stove Fan

Hi, to be honest gas is going to work out cheaper to use unless you can source free or very cheap wood/turf.
Especially when you consider the cost of plumbing it in.
To be honest if your more Urban you may be best to install a combi boiler and have a non boiler stove like a Charnwood island 1 with external air.
Also is your area a smokeless zone? If it is you can only burn smokeless coal/fuel which is a bit dearer, around 16 euro a 40kg bag in Kerry.

Your room requires around 3.5kw to heat the 24.4sqm space. I presume you meant 263 sqft:D
I certainly wouldn't install a boiler stove with a room heat output of more than 6kw. It's very hard to quote the boiler size as every property is different regarding radiator sizes. It could be around 10kw upwards but it really needs a site visit to calculate each rooms heat loss and rad size required.

Ideally your looking for a boiler stove with an external air supply otherwise you will need to install an air vent in the wall. This is best either near the stove or behind the TV to avoid drafts. With the external air option this connects to the stove by ductwork and so stops potential draughts.

Hunter isn't a brand I would recommend, due to hearing complaints about controlability of the fire. due to poor sealing doors/sliding vents.

I would go for a aarrow stratford EB series for a boiler stove if a large output is needed. Reasonable quality for the price. Other good makes are:

Charnwood,
Morso,
Dunsley,
Clearview.
Woodwarm
Contura.

Some do boiler versions too with external air.

Stove Fan:)

cassius22000 wrote: »

I've tried to read as much of the tread as possible, but with over 100 pages there's a lot to get through so I apologies if I'm covering old ground.

I am building a new house and I am considering installing a duel heating system, i.e. mains gas and a boiler stove. However, I've discovered there's a lot more to consider when looking at stoves than I anticipated! For a start I've seen a seen a few posts suggesting that people with mains gas may be better off without a boiler stove. The plan was to put in a stove to mitigate the increasing cost of gas over the next fifteen years, but I wonder if the running costs of a stove would out weight the potential benefits.

The details of the house are as follows:

Dormer Bungalow approx 170sqm in size (109sqm downstairs). It's a brick construction, will be well insulated (A rated) and should be air tight.

The stove would be located in the sitting room, which is approx 263sqm in size. That room will have double doors. The hot press is located upstairs.

The number and size of the radiators hasn't been finalised yet, but it will probably be:

Downstairs
3 Large Double
3 Medium Double
1 Small Single

Upstairs
2 Large Double
2 Medium Double
1 Small Single

I'd imagine that the stove would mainly be used during the coldest parts of winter and over the weekends when people are home all day. As the stove wouldn't be the primary source of heating there would be a radiator in the sitting room. Ideally it would be nice to be able to use the gas for the first hour to give faster heat while the fire warms up (if that's even possible).

I took a trip into my local stove stockist and they suggested a couple of Hunter stoves; the Herald 14 Central Heating Stoves and the Herald 80b Central Heating Stove.Does anyone have any feedback on these models? Looking online I've seen stoves like the Henley Blasket stove that looks like it would have a similar output too. The room output of some of these stoves seems quite high. Would they be too large for the sitting room?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Stove Fan

opr wrote: »

Hi

Could someone give me some recommendations please. Looking to put in an inset Solid Fuel Stove where we currently have an open fire which is sized 16 inches.

Room size is 20 ft long and 10 ft wide and ceiling height 10ft. No boiler or radiators just used as a room heater.

Any advice welcome.

Opr

Hi depending on insulation levels and airtightness you need an inset stove with an output between 3-5.5kw. 3kw for very good insulation 5.5kw for poor insulation 4kw for average insulation.

You could go for an esse 300
http://www.esse.com/multifuel-stoves/301se/
Aarrow ecoburn/signature.
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/ecoburn-range/ecoburn-inset.html
http://www.aarrowfires.com/our-range-of-stoves/signature-range/signature-inset.html
Stovax riva.
http://www.stovax.com/builtintothewallfires/builtinfires/built_in_wood__multi_fuel/riva_40_multi_fuel_fire.aspx
Stovax stockton
http://www.stovax.com/hearthmountedfires/hearthmountedfires/hearth_wood__multi_fuel/stockton_fires/stockton_7_inset_convector.aspx
Contura I4
http://www.contura.eu/English/Stoves/Inserts/Insert-Contura-i4-Classic/
Clearview vision insert.
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/visioninset.htm

For me I would go for the Aarrow ecoburn. If more to spend the clearview and contura are a great stove.

www.whatstove.co.uk

There are also the Irish manufacturers and imports.

Stove Fan:)

cassius22000

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks for the advice

I suspected that the mains gas might be more economical at the moment. I believe the area is smokeless alright so I'm sure those €16 bags would start to add up. I guess the main reason for including a multi fuel boiler in the build is to keep my options open in case gas sees a similar price increase to oil in the next few years.

Lol, yeah I mean't 263sqft!

I'll be sure to check out those brands. Are there any online stockists for those brands that you would recommend?

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, to be honest gas is going to work out cheaper to use unless you can source free or very cheap wood/turf.
Especially when you consider the cost of plumbing it in.
To be honest if your more Urban you may be best to install a combi boiler and have a non boiler stove like a Charnwood island 1 with external air.
Also is your area a smokeless zone? If it is you can only burn smokeless coal/fuel which is a bit dearer, around 16 euro a 40kg bag in Kerry.

Your room requires around 3.5kw to heat the 24.4sqm space. I presume you meant 263 sqft:D
I certainly wouldn't install a boiler stove with a room heat output of more than 6kw. It's very hard to quote the boiler size as every property is different regarding radiator sizes. It could be around 10kw upwards but it really needs a site visit to calculate each rooms heat loss and rad size required.

Ideally your looking for a boiler stove with an external air supply otherwise you will need to install an air vent in the wall. This is best either near the stove or behind the TV to avoid drafts. With the external air option this connects to the stove by ductwork and so stops potential draughts.

Hunter isn't a brand I would recommend, due to hearing complaints about controlability of the fire. due to poor sealing doors/sliding vents.

I would go for a aarrow stratford EB series for a boiler stove if a large output is needed. Reasonable quality for the price. Other good makes are:

Charnwood,
Morso,
Dunsley,
Clearview.
Woodwarm
Contura.

Some do boiler versions too with external air.

Stove Fan:)

gomamochi1

Ext air vent? I have a Dimplex 8kw multi fuel in a room 16mtr sq. newly refurb end gaff and tried to go for the boiler stove but plumber fobbed me off (my mistake for not following up!) gaff is only 100 sq mtr Dublin based so not huge. I put an ext vent in the room with the stove open all the time but think its too draughty. Should I fill it in and move it to just below the skirting board or inside the tv cabinet? Will this make much diff? Gas central heating 7 rads in total. Is it too late to stick in a boiler stove at this stage or too much work involved? Cheers

martinn123

Hi Guys,
got some great advice here prior to getting stove installed, and posted pic's of finished job

Stove in up and running a couple of months and its a great boost to the Conservatory.

i have noticed hairline cracks in the plasterboard behind the stove, I am happy its got the recommended clearance behind it, and the plaster wall is very hot to touch when the stove is lit.

Will it do any long term damage.

Was considering a reflective barrier, like you put behind a rad, to reflect heat back from wall.
Or something like a piece of Aluminium, screwed to wall.

Any advice please..

SmithySeller

Hi Folks

I’m looking for some guidance to see if a stove installation‘where I want it’ is feasible. The proposed room is difficult to heat due tothe amount of windows and the Gallery up top. It currently has underfloorheating. Whilst I love the underfloor heating in the house, it just doesn’t workout in this room. Dimensions of the room are pretty much 4.5 x 4.5 x 4.5metres,but I guess the opening to the Gallery is what obscures the heat requirements.

I’m looking at a Jotul F163 (probably convection) stove. It’sto fit a corner and the reason for this was the short distance required fromcombustibles. Although I’m definitely open to something different, this thingis €2000 expensive;

http://www.jotul.com/en-GB/wwwjotulukcom/Main-Menu/Products/Wood--Multi-fuel/Stoves/Jotul-F-163-C/

Heat Output: Min 3.7 kW Rated 5 kW Max 9 kW

I’ve cleared it with Jotul with regard the internal slidingdoors and windows and according to them this will not be an issue with thismodel once combustible items are cleared the correct amount.

The top of the stove to exit is about 2.5metres or more. Iwas told that you can’t get external flue more than circa 1.5metres, but fromwhat I’m reading you get up to 3 even 4 metres external twin walled flue thatis unsupported using the correct brackets;

Please see Section ‘Support Components’:

http://specflue.com/catalogue/product/twin-wall-chimney-systems

3 metres externally would bring me slightly above the VeluxWindows and above the ridge of the Sun Room, but not above the highest ridge ofthe House. The site is quite exposed and can get very windy. I have attachedphotos of the proposed location. Currently there is a Gas Provence Heater whereI’d like to locate the stove.

Having seen the photos I have the following questions;

Can a stove be fitted here and meet the required safety andbuilding regulations?

Is the flue length enough to create the correct amount ofdraft and fire the stove efficiently?

Should I be going for the Radiant or Convection model (Iknow I’d have to move the stove out more if non convection model), but I’m notsure of what exactly the tangible differences are. From what I read andunderstand the Convection Model might be better given there is a Gallery??

Should I be worried about down draft?

What would such an installation cost given the price of thestove?

Any and all information is greatly appreciated. It’s a shameto stop using this room for a few months of the year.

SmithySeller

Soory another quick questions, would going through the vaulted red deal slatted roof be an issue?

Also some other supporting photos and install doc, thanks..

ferger1

Hi Stove Fan,

Im lookin for a bit of advice regarding what output id require in a boiler stove. We have a
reasonably well insulated house., 100mm cavity pumped with a thermobead plus insulated plasterboard
on all external walls and expanded foam insulation on all rafters in roof space.

The stove will be placed in the kitchen which measures 30ft by 15ft by 8ft high ceilings. The radiators required to be heated are as follows ( all doubles):

Utility 600 by 500
Hall 800 by 500
Entrance 600 by 500 (x2)
Landing 800 by 600 (x2)
Bedroom #1 1000 by 600
Ensuite 600 by 500
bedroom #2 1100 by 600
Bathroom 800 by 500

We have a triple coil cylinder in the hotpress (oil, solar,stove) and a leak radiator, so from a plumbing point of view i think
were ok. So basically im wondering what output of stove would be required to heat the kitchen and the radiators.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.....thanks

jameshayes

Lads, I have a question about installing a stove...

the stove (stanley Oisin) will be located in my sitting room, in front of a flush wall which has a chimney at the other side, the stove will sit about 250mm off the ground on a platform and the flue pip will go straight up for 1.5 flue lengths then a 45 into the wall and chimney (another 45 in the chimney also)

my question is, do I need to do anything to the wall that will be behind the stove, it is a solid wall with plaster and skim over it..

Any help appreciated..

Stove Fan

gomamochi1 wrote: »

Ext air vent? I have a Dimplex 8kw multi fuel in a room 16mtr sq. newly refurb end gaff and tried to go for the boiler stove but plumber fobbed me off (my mistake for not following up!) gaff is only 100 sq mtr Dublin based so not huge. I put an ext vent in the room with the stove open all the time but think its too draughty. Should I fill it in and move it to just below the skirting board or inside the tv cabinet? Will this make much diff? Gas central heating 7 rads in total. Is it too late to stick in a boiler stove at this stage or too much work involved? Cheers

You certainly need a vent in the room. It should be installed on a sheltered external wall, ie the one that gets the least wind/rain. If your room has a timber floor the vent can be in the floor providing the subfloor has air vents.
Try to locate the vent as near the stove or where it will give the least draught. Probably the higher up the wall the better.

With regards a boiler stove it depends whether the new gas boiler is open vented or a sealed system and where the cylinder location is in relation to the stove. The stove must be plumbed to an open vented system.
The only thing I can advice is to get a plumber in to quote and see if it's possible.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

SmithySeller wrote: »

Hi Folks

I’m looking for some guidance to see if a stove installation‘where I want it’ is feasible. The proposed room is difficult to heat due tothe amount of windows and the Gallery up top. It currently has underfloorheating. Whilst I love the underfloor heating in the house, it just doesn’t workout in this room. Dimensions of the room are pretty much 4.5 x 4.5 x 4.5metres,but I guess the opening to the Gallery is what obscures the heat requirements.

I’m looking at a Jotul F163 (probably convection) stove. It’sto fit a corner and the reason for this was the short distance required fromcombustibles. Although I’m definitely open to something different, this thingis €2000 expensive;

http://www.jotul.com/en-GB/wwwjotulukcom/Main-Menu/Products/Wood--Multi-fuel/Stoves/Jotul-F-163-C/

Heat Output: Min 3.7 kW Rated 5 kW Max 9 kW

I’ve cleared it with Jotul with regard the internal slidingdoors and windows and according to them this will not be an issue with thismodel once combustible items are cleared the correct amount.

The top of the stove to exit is about 2.5metres or more. Iwas told that you can’t get external flue more than circa 1.5metres, but fromwhat I’m reading you get up to 3 even 4 metres external twin walled flue thatis unsupported using the correct brackets;

Please see Section ‘Support Components’:

http://specflue.com/catalogue/product/twin-wall-chimney-systems

3 metres externally would bring me slightly above the VeluxWindows and above the ridge of the Sun Room, but not above the highest ridge ofthe House. The site is quite exposed and can get very windy. I have attachedphotos of the proposed location. Currently there is a Gas Provence Heater whereI’d like to locate the stove.

Having seen the photos I have the following questions;

Can a stove be fitted here and meet the required safety andbuilding regulations?

Is the flue length enough to create the correct amount ofdraft and fire the stove efficiently?

Should I be going for the Radiant or Convection model (Iknow I’d have to move the stove out more if non convection model), but I’m notsure of what exactly the tangible differences are. From what I read andunderstand the Convection Model might be better given there is a Gallery??

Should I be worried about down draft?

What would such an installation cost given the price of thestove?

Any and all information is greatly appreciated. It’s a shameto stop using this room for a few months of the year.

Hi, having looked at the pictures and clearance requirements I personally think the stove would have to come out further to clear the timber door/window and in my opinion it's just too tight a space and may look a bit odd being brought forward. Theoretically it's possible as the stove should be 200mm away but I always air on the side of caution as some new owner may fit curtains/blinds to the window and not realise. I would certainly imagine this stove has a heat shield to help with being installed into a tight space.
Could the stove go where the oil filled rad is, or somewhere else in this room?

The position where the gas heater is the flue would be very near in line with the roof valley. I personally feel the stove would be better placed and flued out the other side of the ridge to the right of the valley.
That particular manufacturers state 1.5metres of flue can run above the roof unsupported. In your case I would run the flue internal for neatness using the appropriate supports etc.
There would be no problem with going through the wood ceiling. There would be a decorative steel plate fitted either square or circular as the wood around the pipe has to be cut away to the recommended clearance, this plate is a decorative cover.

No idea on cost but say 100 euro a metre for flue plus bends.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

ferger1 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

Im lookin for a bit of advice regarding what output id require in a boiler stove. We have a
reasonably well insulated house., 100mm cavity pumped with a thermobead plus insulated plasterboard
on all external walls and expanded foam insulation on all rafters in roof space.

The stove will be placed in the kitchen which measures 30ft by 15ft by 8ft high ceilings. The radiators required to be heated are as follows ( all doubles):

Utility 600 by 500
Hall 800 by 500
Entrance 600 by 500 (x2)
Landing 800 by 600 (x2)
Bedroom #1 1000 by 600
Ensuite 600 by 500
bedroom #2 1100 by 600
Bathroom 800 by 500

We have a triple coil cylinder in the hotpress (oil, solar,stove) and a leak radiator, so from a plumbing point of view i think
were ok. So basically im wondering what output of stove would be required to heat the kitchen and the radiators.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.....thanks

Hi, to heat all the rads and hot water your looking for a stove with an 18kw backboiler. Your kitchen requires around 7kw to heat this space. Your boiler stoves room heat wants to be ideally a bit less or around this output. If you have doors off this room you could go a bit higher and leave the doors open.
I personally would probably install this stove.
http://www.thestovecompany.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1028
Slightly less heat output than needed but with either a few rads turned down on the thermostatic radiator valves or switched off it should be fine.
I would pick this model due to only producing a max output of 8kw to the room. Good boiler performance and reasonable brand.

With the EB20he stove it's a more powerfull boiler but a higher room heat of 3-10kw.
http://www.harridgestoves.co.uk/prod/497/stratford-eb-20-he

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

jameshayes wrote: »

Lads, I have a question about installing a stove...

the stove (stanley Oisin) will be located in my sitting room, in front of a flush wall which has a chimney at the other side, the stove will sit about 250mm off the ground on a platform and the flue pip will go straight up for 1.5 flue lengths then a 45 into the wall and chimney (another 45 in the chimney also)

my question is, do I need to do anything to the wall that will be behind the stove, it is a solid wall with plaster and skim over it..

Any help appreciated..

Hi, so long as the wall is solid and isn't drylined or has wallpaper or gloss paint it will be fine as is. It may crack the plaster due to the heat from the stove but you could if you wanted clad the wall behind with a vermiculite board and emulsion it in the same colour as the wall.

Stove Fan:)

vwpolo

Hi,
I'd appreciate a bit of help on getting the best use out of our stove. I was on before when deciding what to buy & we settled on a stockton 3 multi-fuel which is going well, except that coal doesn't burn through fully in it - has anyone any ideas?
I have the maximum air going into the stove through the two dampers to try to help it along. I set the fire using sticks and briquettes & when they are blazing I add the coal, not too much just a few bits. Is it the way I'm setting the fire or an installation issue?

Thanks.

dilljen

Hi Stove Fan,

I have bought a Stanley Oisin and want to fit it to my existing fireplace. After reading through this thread I have found some very interesting information but still have some questions which I hope you can help me with. I have attached 2 pics of my fireplace.

Firstly I am going to remove the fireback to allow me room to fit the reducer from my 8" clay flu pipe. My problem then is will I have the room to fit 2 45 degree bends without pushing my stove right out to the eadge of the hearth. From reading here it is not advisable to fit a 90 degree bend. My other worry is will I be too close to the timber surround on my fireplace which is combustable. I don't have a problem if my stove has to be situated right at the edge of my hearth and I need to install a piece of marble to extend the hearth. In a doomsday senario I may have to remove the metal surround on the fireplace and fit the stove back into the opening.

Any suggestions or ideas? I think you are doing an excellent job here and I don't know what we would all do without your help.

Thanks in advance.
Dilljen

ferger1

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, to heat all the rads and hot water your looking for a stove with an 18kw backboiler. Your kitchen requires around 7kw to heat this space. Your boiler stoves room heat wants to be ideally a bit less or around this output. If you have doors off this room you could go a bit higher and leave the doors open.
I personally would probably install this stove.
http://www.thestovecompany.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1028
Slightly less heat output than needed but with either a few rads turned down on the thermostatic radiator valves or switched off it should be fine.
I would pick this model due to only producing a max output of 8kw to the room. Good boiler performance and reasonable brand.

With the EB20he stove it's a more powerfull boiler but a higher room heat of 3-10kw.
http://www.harridgestoves.co.uk/prod/497/stratford-eb-20-he

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan, thanks for your advice. I could possibly go with the higher room output EBhe 20he stove due to the fact i have a sunroom off
the kitchen and a set of double doors leading to a high ceiling entrance
off the kitchen also. I purposely didnt include the sunrooms radiators with this in mind. I do have TRV's' so i could keep this in mind if i go for the lower output to rads stove.

My only concern with going with a high output boiler stove is will i be firing in coal and sticks for the night to get the heat output to the radiators. I have no experience of boiler stoves and wonder will i have to sit beside it feeding it :rolleyes:

kali23

Hi stove fan,

I looked into the Stratford Eco boiler and I was wondering where I could get one in the republic. I cannot find a stockist. Also a stove called Hestia was reccommended to me as an option by a stove shop and I'm wondering if you have had any experience/prior knowledge of this stove?

Thanks again

Stove Fan

vwpolo wrote: »

Hi,
I'd appreciate a bit of help on getting the best use out of our stove. I was on before when deciding what to buy & we settled on a stockton 3 multi-fuel which is going well, except that coal doesn't burn through fully in it - has anyone any ideas?
I have the maximum air going into the stove through the two dampers to try to help it along. I set the fire using sticks and briquettes & when they are blazing I add the coal, not too much just a few bits. Is it the way I'm setting the fire or an installation issue?

Thanks.

It could be that the fire isn't established enough before the coal is added and so isn't enough heat there to fully ignite it? Smokeless fuel takes more lighting so I would say use plenty of kindling or firelighters.
The briquettes could well stifle the fire so I would put a layer of the coal on top of plenty of kindling and once going for 10-15 minutes put the briquettes on top.
You could also leave the stove door open a crack to increase the air but do remember to close it.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

dilljen wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

I have bought a Stanley Oisin and want to fit it to my existing fireplace. After reading through this thread I have found some very interesting information but still have some questions which I hope you can help me with. I have attached 2 pics of my fireplace.

Firstly I am going to remove the fireback to allow me room to fit the reducer from my 8" clay flu pipe. My problem then is will I have the room to fit 2 45 degree bends without pushing my stove right out to the eadge of the hearth. From reading here it is not advisable to fit a 90 degree bend. My other worry is will I be too close to the timber surround on my fireplace which is combustable. I don't have a problem if my stove has to be situated right at the edge of my hearth and I need to install a piece of marble to extend the hearth. In a doomsday senario I may have to remove the metal surround on the fireplace and fit the stove back into the opening.

Any suggestions or ideas? I think you are doing an excellent job here and I don't know what we would all do without your help.

Thanks in advance.
Dilljen

I think the best option if possible is to remove the cast iron section and inset the stove into the opening if possible to enlarge in width and height.

If not cut a sheet steel plate and fix it to the inner arch painted black and stove placed infront. It looks tight regarding clearance to the surround and may infact be too near the timber surround. The manual states on page 6 that the stove to mantle shelf height should be no less than 25 inches and 14 inches either side providing the side surrounds don't project out more than 2 inches.
The hearth would need to be extended out.
If it isn't possible to inset the stove in the new opening I would be tempted to protect the edges of the fire surround with granite strips to project them from scorching.

With your flue I would be tempted to use the 45 bend straight onto the stoves rear outlet and buying different bends to try and take any back for a refund. Bends are available in 15, 30 and 45 degrees. Top flued would be far easier if the stove was inside the opening.

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/media/200805/oisinsf.pdf

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

ferger1 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan, thanks for your advice. I could possibly go with the higher room output EBhe 20he stove due to the fact i have a sunroom off
the kitchen and a set of double doors leading to a high ceiling entrance
off the kitchen also. I purposely didnt include the sunrooms radiators with this in mind. I do have TRV's' so i could keep this in mind if i go for the lower output to rads stove.

My only concern with going with a high output boiler stove is will i be firing in coal and sticks for the night to get the heat output to the radiators. I have no experience of boiler stoves and wonder will i have to sit beside it feeding it :rolleyes:

The biggest fuel use is when its first heating the rads from cold for the first hour after that about every 1-2 hours depending on burning rate and heat needed.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

kali23 wrote: »

Hi stove fan,

I looked into the Stratford Eco boiler and I was wondering where I could get one in the republic. I cannot find a stockist. Also a stove called Hestia was reccommended to me as an option by a stove shop and I'm wondering if you have had any experience/prior knowledge of this stove?

Thanks again

No experiance in Hestia stoves:(

I found this while looking up hestia for the Aarrow stove.
http://www.boilerstovesireland.ie/index.php?cPath=4
I have done a google ireland search for the Aarrow ecoboiler and came up with these, if you look at the www web adress look for ie at the end for Ireland. Like murray fireplaces.
https://www.google.ie/search?source=ig&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENIE479&q=aarrow+ecoboiler#q=aarrow+ecoboiler&hl=en&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENIE479&prmd=imvns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryIE&cr=countryIE&sa=X&ei=Z2yAUNasEoLRhAfz8IGACQ&ved=0CBcQpwUoAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=64afa57abc3242f&bpcl=35466521&biw=1366&bih=587

Stove Fan:)

dilljen

Stove Fan wrote: »

I think the best option if possible is to remove the cast iron section and inset the stove into the opening if possible to enlarge in width and height.

If not cut a sheet steel plate and fix it to the inner arch painted black and stove placed infront. It looks tight regarding clearance to the surround and may infact be too near the timber surround. The manual states on page 6 that the stove to mantle shelf height should be no less than 25 inches and 14 inches either side providing the side surrounds don't project out more than 2 inches.
The hearth would need to be extended out.
If it isn't possible to inset the stove in the new opening I would be tempted to protect the edges of the fire surround with granite strips to project them from scorching.

With your flue I would be tempted to use the 45 bend straight onto the stoves rear outlet and buying different bends to try and take any back for a refund. Bends are available in 15, 30 and 45 degrees. Top flued would be far easier if the stove was inside the opening.

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/media/200805/oisinsf.pdf

Stove Fan:)

Many thanks for the advice Stove Fan

Just one question, if I remove the cast iron surround section and have enough clearance in the opening to fit the stove back inside I would then need to either tile the area where the surround was or put stonework there. Any idea's or solutions for this problem?

Also, what clearance is required in the opening between the stove and the surrounding blockwork for the stove to work efficiently.

Again, thanks for all your help. I think this is turning into a bigger job than I first envisaged.

Dilljen

Kaylee

Hello again everybody!

sorry if this has been asked already:

Just wondering if a wooden (oak) mantel can be safely placed above a wood burning stove. If so, what is the clearance needed?

Maggie Benson

I installed a Charnwood Island (not integrated) stove a year ago as we have oil fired central heating and I can only describe it as brilliant. It heats up in 10 minutes and is so economical as regards fuel. We burn wood, turf and an odd briquette to start it off. It takes time to figure out the best way to control the heat via the damper but I have it down to a fine art now. It is fitted in my kitchen and as I have a dormer bungalow I can open the door to the hallway if we need heat in that area. We used very little oil last winter but I realise that it wasn't the worst winter ever!
The house is well insulated which probably is a big plus. I never removed the summer duvet last winter which makes me believe the whole house benefits!

magicbastarder

are there any FAQs i should read before asking dumb questions about replacing an old oil central heating boiler in such a way that would facilitate adding a boiler stove? i understand that condenser boilers are not open vented, generally.

Stove Fan

dilljen wrote: »

Many thanks for the advice Stove Fan

Just one question, if I remove the cast iron surround section and have enough clearance in the opening to fit the stove back inside I would then need to either tile the area where the surround was or put stonework there. Any idea's or solutions for this problem?

Also, what clearance is required in the opening between the stove and the surrounding blockwork for the stove to work efficiently.

Again, thanks for all your help. I think this is turning into a bigger job than I first envisaged.

Dilljen

If you opened up the fireplace opening you could probably keep the surround after removing the arched bits and just line the inside of the opening in vermiculite board or heatproof plaster.
If removing just the surround you could just place the stove on a new hearth and just use heatproof plaster behind the stove and paint it in emulsion. You really need to measure your width from surround inner edge to inner edge and see if you have the needed clearance width and height and take it from there.

Hi, stanley quote 100mm space will not impede airflow around the stove placed in a non combustible opening. Ie 100mm each side of the stove and above. If you can allow more then great as it's less gap than usual.

It is recommended that this appliance is sited next to
and on a non-combustible surface. A minimum all
round clearance of 100 mm will allow air circulation
and not impede the performance of the stove.

Stove Fan:)

emg74

Stove Fan wrote: »

No experiance in Hestia stoves:(

I found this while looking up hestia for the Aarrow stove.
http://www.boilerstovesireland.ie/index.php?cPath=4
I have done a google ireland search for the Aarrow ecoboiler and came up with these, if you look at the www web adress look for ie at the end for Ireland. Like murray fireplaces.
https://www.google.ie/search?source=ig&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENIE479&q=aarrow+ecoboiler#q=aarrow+ecoboiler&hl=en&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENIE479&prmd=imvns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryIE&cr=countryIE&sa=X&ei=Z2yAUNasEoLRhAfz8IGACQ&ved=0CBcQpwUoAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=64afa57abc3242f&bpcl=35466521&biw=1366&bih=587

Stove Fan:)

When I was looking for suppliers, I contacted Stratford stoves via their website and got a list from them. I was just interested in Connaght. This is what they sent if it is of any help to you

Co .Mayo: Hurst Heating 0949023453

Co.Galway: Gordon Heating Supplies 09345764

Co.Sligo: Sligo Stoves 0719151786

Co.Leitrim: Station Antiques 0719620153

Co Roscommon: N/A But we have Co Longford: Longford Fireplaces 0433341088

We have 3 in Enniskillen

Flame Fireplaces

Erne Fireplaces and

Mullen Domestics

Hope this helps - they are a good stove - We are very happy with ours - We bought from Gordons in Galway in the end

Stove Fan

Kaylee wrote: »

Hello again everybody!

sorry if this has been asked already:

Just wondering if a wooden (oak) mantel can be safely placed above a wood burning stove. If so, what is the clearance needed?

Yes it can, providing you follow the stove manufacturers clearance to combustibles in the stoves installation and maintenance instructions.

What stove is it?

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

magicbastarder wrote: »

are there any FAQs i should read before asking dumb questions about replacing an old oil central heating boiler in such a way that would facilitate adding a boiler stove? i understand that condenser boilers are not open vented, generally.

No such thing as a dumb question, Fire away:)

Your easiest option is to buy a new open vented condensing boiler and twin coil cylinder.

Stove Fan:)

magicbastarder

ah - i had been told that condensing boilers were generally not open vented, as it allowed too much scope for corrosion!