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A Lean-To Tale (with pics & maybe vids)

135

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    harry21 wrote: »
    :D

    I dont get it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    dnme wrote: »
    I dont get it

    If you stay out in the cold and rain for long enough you will....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    I know how you feel dnme. Been trying to fit and seal a new window today - Yours is looking good dude, From your pics it seems you have made very good progress. Get that tarp over your bench it will make a huge difference = if you stay comfortable your quality of work goes up.

    Aaahhh Tishoooooo!

    TT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Yeah I waas gonna put up a tarp yesterday, I have one on the boat and 2 small ones covering the lumber on pallets. As I was about to do it, it lashed rain and I couldn't bring myself to expose either ther boat or the lumber to that for x days. I'm now ready to start the cross members (lets call them runnerss) so a tarp will be in the way.

    Got the wall plate up on the L tonight. It runs from the corner of the L to the back door reveal (about 5 feet's worth). As I drilled into the wall, I was met with hollow block, so had to head into town and go with compression rawl bolts. Chem anchor no good here unless I managed to get special tube inserts. I live 6 miles from Boyle, so your lucky to get a screwdriver, nevermind anything a bit special like that on the hoof.

    All in all today, I had to go into town 4 times. Forgot stuff, needed stuff as the job progressed, lost stuff, you name it. Also, a few days ago, I borrowed a step ladder from a neighbour. It's a rickety old death trap, anyways, today, I fell through it (from 3rd step). By that, I mean the step broke away. Unscathed but christ what a fright. Borrowed another step ladder tonight from another neighbour. This one is mint.

    Me and Honey spent the day looking at each other miserable with rain. I kept darting in and out the backdoor which itself was taking a lashing. Everytime I ran, so did she, wise dog, likes her comfort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,638 ✭✭✭Kat1170


    Don't worry. Soon rain stopping play will be a distant memory. Keep up the good work. :D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Great feckin work dnme.

    Looks great.

    Get a cup of 'cha and you be grand.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Hi dnme,

    As you are doing such super work on the boat and lean-to project I felt obliged to make my 1000th post here !

    A lot, and I mean a lot, of people are following both these threads and are fascinated by your guile and unwillingness to give in.

    So on my 1000th post - Cheers to you !;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    vicwatson for president. Here's to the next 1000 posts vic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    24 hours later and the mood is up. It's a bright clear day, no rain since morning although it lashed here all night. So much so that it washed away a lot of my wood preservative. I've had to redo a lot of the rafters which is probably unwise. Stuff is expensive!

    I love this stage of a job. The stage where key joins or couplings start to make the job look and feel right, rigid, strong etc. After trimming all rafters to length, I have started to add runners along the rafter tops. I had initially planned to notch them and today as I uncovered the 3x2's, I had no doubts. They look awful thick. I will neeed room to get the corrugated sheet in under the gutters so the closer to the top of the rafter I can get these runners, the better. I laid the first runner unnotched along the outside. Once bolted to the L wall plate, it immediately added serious rigidity to the overall job. Then I notched the second one in 2.5cm. (I'll notch the next one in 4cm tapering my way back to the wall.

    The notching adds serious strength and looks awesome so I'm delighted I decided to take the trouble and time to do it. It involves running a plumb line along the rafters where the runner will eh.....run. Marking out the profile of the 3x2, then running a circ saw through several times with the blade set to the depth of the notch. Then bash out the leafs with a hammer and clean up with a rasp. Not for the feint hearted - standing on top of a step ladder that itself is standing on unevern ground, all the while holding a running circ saw. Look we all have to die sometime!:D

    I have two runners in tonight. Not only that but the uprights and rafters trimmed and levelled in all directions. Even the adddition of just two runners makes the job rock solid. I'm thrilled with todays progress. Out there in the sunshine, match on the radio, cuppa in hand and a big ol black lab lazing about beside you. It's literally why I do this shjt; Therapy!






    This is where I keep the job lUmber, miraculously it's remaining dry.
    Img_7866.jpg


    Slapping on the Cuprinol to the L wall plate, much easier to do it on the bench than on the wall.
    Img_7868.jpg


    The L wall plate up. Had a few issues finding good anchoring. Hollow block mostly so I had to use expanding rawl bolts. I have since taken it down to add notches for the runners before remounting it. What'll I do with the yard light? Will it work ok under the leanto roof? Might mess with headroom etc? suggestions?
    Img_7869.jpg


    All rafters trimmed to length and re-covered in preservative
    Img_7873.jpg


    Dont ya just love it when you go back to check and.....
    Img_7880.jpg



    Runners coming off L wall plate. I got these brackets in Woodies for a couple of quid each. They are strong and have a curved profile centre so they cannot bend.
    Img_7886.jpg


    Notching in the runners. Bit of hassle and time but well worth it. I'll look on at these joints with pride for years. Slapping preservative on all joints as I go.
    Image1.jpg


    I ordered my 3x2 lumber in 16's and 14's. The 16's almost fit perfectly from L wall plate to third rafter. I join the runners with a flat half lap roughly over a rafter. Looks good, strong and retains a clean profile through the runner length.
    Img_7890.jpg


    Two Runners completed
    Img_7891.jpg


    View from back door
    Img_7895.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    Looks fantastic Dnme. Love the view from your garden too!

    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Pete67 wrote: »
    Looks fantastic Dnme. Love the view from your garden too!

    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.

    Thats a great idea !!!!

    Would light units under that thin pvc corrugated sheet be safe? I'm thinking what if it leaks, dew, condensation etc ?


  • Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 28,820 Mod ✭✭✭✭oscarBravo


    Pete67 wrote: »
    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.
    That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Get the type of fluorescent fittings that are designed for dampish areas - they're like IP55 rated or so - and you won't need to worry about water once you run the cables through glands.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    dnme wrote: »
    Would light units under that thin pvc corrugated sheet be safe?

    Safer than standing on top of a step ladder using a circular saw one handed !!!!

    Tut Tut dnme. Where's your helmet, harness, specs, muffs, 14 ply trousers and a mate with a red flag??

    ;);)

    TT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Looking great:D I am enjoying your updates:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    IP65 rated are the ones you want. Check local electrical wholesalers or try online, available in various lengths, single or double tube etc. Ebay has loads at good prices but mostly in the UK and shipping is a killer. But you might get lucky!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    TopTec wrote: »
    Safer than standing on top of a step ladder using a circular saw one handed !!!!

    Tut Tut dnme. Where's your helmet, harness, specs, muffs, 14 ply trousers and a mate with a red flag??

    ;);)

    TT



    Worth a watch, give it a few mins to get goin. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,786 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    Nice job dnme.
    I know we all have to die sometime but I'd rather it not be from a slow and painful bleed out after an 'incident' with a circular saw. :D

    PS: that curved profile centre in the angle brackets are known, for obvious reasons, as "bird beaks".

    Looking forward to tomorrow's episode!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    Hi dnme, regarding the lights that pete mentioned if you want to cost them roughly before you decide, go to Meteor Electrical online. Weatherproof flourescent fittings, pvc PG11 glands for the cable entries and 3x1.5 nymj cable. Their price will be a guideline but I would'nt order off them. Someday you're in Sligo hop in to Derry Taheny beside Hughes Bridge and I'll be shocked if he has'nt a better price.(and service!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    red sean wrote: »
    Hi dnme, regarding the lights that pete mentioned if you want to cost them roughly before you decide, go to Meteor Electrical online. Weatherproof flourescent fittings, pvc PG11 glands for the cable entries and 3x1.5 nymj cable. Their price will be a guideline but I would'nt order off them. Someday you're in Sligo hop in to Derry Taheny beside Hughes Bridge and I'll be shocked if he has'nt a better price.(and service!)

    Hi Sean.
    I'm seeing IP65 4ft double units on ebay for 24 quid. I don't think Derry Taheny would come close, even factoring in delivery. I went into them last year to source components for a modular 4 gang TV outlet (2 x sat, 1 x DTT, 1 x rj45). All in ...... €50. I told him what I thought about that, walked out of the shop, came home and ordered the lot on ebay for £10 + £5 delivery. As it transpired, the stuff got lost in the post so the ebay vendor re-sent the lot and refunded me in total. Freebie. ;)

    I'd love to shop local and shop Irish.....If only it wasn't so expensive and if only they valued me as a customer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    BTW

    Seeing as I'm on a forum, there might be people from the trade etc knocking around. I was wondering if anyone can advise or get a trade deal on pvc roof sheets? Is anyone in the trade watching, or perhaps knows anyone in the trade? It's expensive stuff and I'll take any help I can get.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    Great update as always dnme! I know what you mean about those runners making the job solid, it's a great feeling! Not long now until it's a shelter, it's regally coming together. Well done as always


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭2 stroke


    dnme wrote: »
    BTW

    Seeing as I'm on a forum, there might be people from the trade etc knocking around. I was wondering if anyone can advise or get a trade deal on pvc roof sheets? Is anyone in the trade watching, or perhaps knows anyone in the trade? It's expensive stuff and I'll take any help I can get.

    A friend passed me this link, I havn't contacted them myself yet, but your project is advancing much faster than mine. http://www.celuplast.com
    Also ploughing match is on this week, might be a good place to talk to agricultural suppliers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Some questions if anyone can help....

    When laying the pvc sheets, where do I start? Will I start at the L over the back door or the other end (outer end)? I have a feeling the house is not square so I will have a taper to cut in opne of the sheets lengthways.

    I will have 4 runners. How many fixing screws should I use at each runner per sheet (crossing a 2ft span)?

    Should the last fixing screw go through the overlap between the sheet and its previous neighbour?

    Many thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭YouTookMyName


    dnme wrote: »
    When laying the pvc sheets, where do I start? Will I start at the L over the back door or the other end (outer end)? I have a feeling the house is not square so I will have a taper to cut in opne of the sheets lengthways.

    I will have 4 runners. How many fixing screws should I use at each runner per sheet (crossing a 2ft span)?

    Should the last fixing screw go through the overlap between the sheet and its previous neighbour?

    Many thanks

    Start over the door and work your way out to the gable.

    3 screws in each sheet and 1 on the joints.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Might be worth taking a few mins to put them up there (a dry run so to speak) so as you get a notion for it and see how square or not the house is. That said one will need a calm day to do this - sadly lacking in Ireland as you can atest !!!:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    How would you solve this?

    175044.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Screw a piece of timber up into the fascia (underside) to bulk out the space so your piece of timber can then be screwed into that piece.

    Does it have to go above the grey door surround?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Screw a piece of timber up into the fascia (underside) to bulk out the space so your piece of timber can then be screwed into that piece.

    Does it have to go above the grey door surround?


    The gap to the facia underside is bigger than image indicates (8cm) so a bridge block may not be an option. I was wondering if I could use strapping to hang the runner out of the facia?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme



    3 screws in each sheet and 1 on the joints.


    Just to be clear, do you mean 4 screws across the sheet, the last one on the overlap? 4 runners each x 4 screws = 16 screws per sheet. Yes?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Hows about using the likes of this, or something similar ??

    http://www.esska-tech.co.uk/esska_eng_s/perforated_tape_tape_length_10_m_galvani.html

    Or how about an "L" bracket under the timber and into the wall with a rawl plug ?

    Likes of this -

    http://www.sabrefix.co.uk/products_ancillary_view.php?id=12

    Or this (or something like it) -

    http://www.sabrefix.co.uk/products_timbertotimber_view.php?id=1

    http://www.sabrefix.co.uk/products_timbertotimber_view.php?id=10


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    dnme wrote: »
    How would you solve this?

    Have you another longer 6*2 by any chance?

    I would use a longer 6*2 and extened the extra foot or so (at least). You will need to rebate for the reveal and cut over for the corner of the door. I thing its the neatest solution.

    The easiest is a wall hanger. If you use a strap, won't you have to cut a hole in the perspex sheeting?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    Presumably you are not looking to attach that runner to any wall plate, only to secure it to the house?

    If that is the case I would go with VicWatsons idea - bulk out the space above with similar width stock, screwed and glued to the top of the runner under the eave.

    From a neatness viewpoint you could then plane the underside of the runner upwards at an angle that finishes above the door frame. If you extend the insert slightly so that it touches the house you could used a couple of angle brackets and fix it to the wall.

    It does need to finish above the painted frame otherwise it will look odd and will be the first place we all look when you have your launch party. :D:D:D:D:D

    TT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Ive strapped it up to the facia and soffet. Looks ugly but its secure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭YouTookMyName


    dnme wrote: »
    Just to be clear, do you mean 4 screws across the sheet, the last one on the overlap? 4 runners each x 4 screws = 16 screws per sheet. Yes?

    Yep.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Got the sheets sorted from Reynolds in Carrick on Shannon. Managed to get a 5% discount too. I'll collect them tomorrow or Wednesday.

    Tell me, fitting these, is it much of a reach across their width? I presume I fit them by screwing down their length rather than across as per the images?

    #1 175112.jpg #2 175113.jpg


    The reason I ask, is that at each fixing, I need access to under the pvc sheet to place the stand-off (see image) #3) and I imagine that the sheet will flex up (allowing this access) far easier along its length than across it.

    #3 41tpyA5HgHL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

    Also, do I need to pre-drill? and do I need to oversize the hole for expansion ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Got the sheets sorted from Reynolds in Carrick on Shannon. Managed to get a 5% discount too.

    Nice 1

    Can you post a pic of the type of sheets you ordered please?

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Nice 1

    Can you post a pic of the type of sheets you ordered please?

    Cheers

    10ft pvc corrugated.

    Can anyone answer my questions in post #136. Many thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    This might be useful?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    dnme, The only time I used these sheets I recall them being more flexible widthways. Therefore it makes sense to fix the first corrigation along its length then the next corrigation and so on.

    Your last fixing of one sheet will be over the top of the next sheet. So your Fig 1 would be your first line, then four corrigations along and so on.

    It still helps having tiny fingers and more arms than an octopus but this is one of those jobs that you will find your own way of fitting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    On a fall like dnme's is it still the case that you should only screw through the high part of the corrugation?

    Great thread btw dnme!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Pete67 wrote: »
    This might be useful?


    That tells me to drill the holes 8mm to 10mm. That seems massive to me, the shaft of my fitting screws is 4mm. Do I really need 6mm left for expansion ? I'm just wondering if anyone here has actually used these sheets before? How'd you do it? Here's what I'm thinking......

    -Place the sheet.
    -Mark my drill points
    -Take down sheet, turn it upside down and drill all holes 2mm bigger than screws.
    -Maybe thread each screw / standoff through each hole while its still on the bench, adding a blob of silicone sealant to each fixing.
    -Put sheet back up, screw fixings down.

    How does that sound?
    I wanna get this reasonably right from the start. I cannot afford a "learning curve" with this job. Stuff is too expensive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Take down sheet, turn it upside down and drill all holes 2mm bigger than screws

    I think this will be quite adequate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    dnme wrote: »
    Here's what I'm thinking......

    -Place the sheet.
    -Mark my drill points
    -Take down sheet, turn it upside down and drill all holes 2mm bigger than screws.
    -Maybe thread each screw / standoff through each hole while its still on the bench, adding a blob of silicone sealant to each fixing.
    -Put sheet back up, screw fixings down.

    How does that sound?
    I wanna get this reasonably right from the start. I cannot afford a "learning curve" with this job. Stuff is too expensive.

    I don't have much experience with this stuff, but if it was me that sounds about right and even if its not the text book way to do it, I can see zero reason why it shouldn't work. Definitely do the screws in the order you said, go length ways first, so much easier. I know its not much, but its a second brain telling you that it seems right!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    Day 10

    This day last week was hurricane whatzizname, so that means I would have started the construction part of this project last Tuesday. Well it's up and waiting the pvc sheet. That took exactly one week. That's not bad going I reckon, although I did suffer the consequences by enduring all kinds of weather, the sort of stuff normal decent human beings would down tools for and retire indoors.

    I drove down to Carrick this evening to collect the sheets. I have an old Corolla liftback. The boot is massive and the rear seats fold down so I thought I might get away with it. No such luck. They would not comfortably fit without the possibility of doing some damage so I had to ask for the sheets to be delivered. Another 20 dam quid. Hopefully I'll have em tomorrow.

    In the mean time I have been slapping on the wood preservative. I started out with what I presume was a water based product, Cuprinol Ultimate. But yesterday in Carrick they had more Cuprinol garden wood preservative on special offer so I took away a tin of that as I had just run out of the first. Second tin is oil based it seems, so I am slapping on oil based over water based. Sod it, I don't care. I'm just drenching the timber and it seems to be adhering well. My god, painting those beams - especially the undersides is a messy job. I have preservative all over the place at this stage.

    Anyhow, a picture tells a better story I guess.


    When I left you yesterday, I was wondering how to terminate these runners over the door. I went with strapping but it looked awful and there was serious lateral play in the fixing.
    Img_7901.jpg


    So this morning, I undid the strap, put up a ripped down piece of timber with 4 80mm wood screws countersunk 20mm into the wood, with washers.
    Img_7904.jpg


    This allowed me to use strong L brackets. Looks "slightly" better.
    Img_7908.jpg


    The two runners terminated.
    Img_7913.jpg


    Here you can see those same two runners from the other end.
    Img_7917.jpg


    Third small runner installed to the facia amd soffit with L brackets. Not hugely strong, but it has no load to take. It's job is just keep the end of the pvc sheet secure.
    Img_7921.jpg


    Slapping on preservative. Messy messy job, it's as thin as water. It spills and splashes all over the shop. I have basin of hot soapy water and a scrubbing brush ready for when it drips on the walls.
    Img_7915.jpg


    I'll take any help with the ladder I can get.
    Img_7914.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    hurricane whatzizname

    Katja !!!

    Looks brilliant, really great job. You won't know yourself tucked in under there while it's p*****g rain outside :D

    To hell with you rain, hell I say !:D:D


    Three things -

    What did you do with the light fitting?

    Are you still putting up florescent tubing from that outlet?

    And a suggestion, if, when you get your boat in, you could possibly use your tarp and pin it to the sides of the structure to prevent wind blown rain in on top of you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 714 ✭✭✭ValerieR


    You will soon need a rocking chair to put under this lean-to ... :)

    Nice job & updates ... Thanks.

    ValerieR


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭dnme


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Katja !!!

    Looks brilliant, really great job. You won't know yourself tucked in under there while it's p*****g rain outside :D

    To hell with you rain, hell I say !:D:D


    Three things -

    What did you do with the light fitting?

    Are you still putting up florescent tubing from that outlet?

    And a suggestion, if, when you get your boat in, you could possibly use your tarp and pin it to the sides of the structure to prevent wind blown rain in on top of you


    Light fitting? oh god yeah. Good man, I totally forgot. I'll have to take it down tomorrow and just terminate the cable to a junction box. I'll go with a fluorescent tube or two.

    Re-tarps, way ahead of you:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 303 ✭✭Gingersnaps


    Well done. It's looking really good. You won't know yourself when it's finished.:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    Great job, you made great progress, Thanks for the indepth posts, pics & vids, tuning in daily icon10.gif


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