Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

A Lean-To Tale (with pics & maybe vids)

124678

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,783 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    TopTec wrote: »
    I think he means puttinf a notch on the end of the rafter so it sits over the bolt head. (If there is room for the hanger to fit over it).

    TT
    Do that and you'll never be able to check the bolts haven't loosened as they'll be hidden under the joist hanger. For example, timber shrinks in frosty winter weather when the air is much less humid so, imo it's a good idea to be able to check and retighten bolts if necessary.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭TopTec


    slimjimmc wrote: »
    Do that and you'll never be able to check the bolts haven't loosened as they'll be hidden under the joist hanger. For example, timber shrinks in frosty winter weather when the air is much less humid so, imo it's a good idea to be able to check and retighten bolts if necessary.

    Hmmmmm. Could have used serrated dogs instead of washers - they never move!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    Ya like TopTec said.

    I would have taken a notch (say 50mm square) out of the end of the rafter to allow is fit up against the wall plate. (The bolt would then site in the notch). End bearing would be affected slightly, but nothing major.

    If you didn't have the post in place already moving the ratfer probably wasn't an issue anyway, but like you I likke things in 'order'..:D. Was the post in place?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    harry21 wrote: »
    Ya like TopTec said.

    I would have taken a notch (say 50mm square) out of the end of the rafter to allow is fit up against the wall plate. (The bolt would then site in the notch). End bearing would be affected slightly, but nothing major.

    If you didn't have the post in place already moving the ratfer probably wasn't an issue anyway, but like you I likke things in 'order'..:D. Was the post in place?


    Posts are fixed, they are in metal surround brackets which have been bolted to ground. Not worth moving for a 3" move over 10ft. Even looking at it from the bottom of the garden, it still looks dead square. Its a non issue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭TopTec


    dnme wrote: »
    Its a non issue.

    Bless You!

    TT


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    Day 8

    I'm not one to generalise but......FCUK EVERYTHING!!!!

    I should explain that I am rain battered and have been all freaking jesus h willoughby christ day....Im hungry, tired and angry.....real angry. Hopefully no runt rings my doorbell toinight co's there's a broken jaw right there!!!

    add your own goddam captions

    Img_7847.jpg

    Img_7848.jpg

    Img_7853.jpg

    Img_7852.jpg

    bIMG_7849.jpg

    Img_7864.jpg

    bIMG_7856.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    dnme sit back put an extra log on the fire grab a cold beer and enjoy the night.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    TopTec wrote: »
    Bless You!

    TT

    :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,181 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    Good man, stay cool, have a shower when wet and cold, nothing like a shower in the evening after a days work outside! Good work!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    dnme wrote: »
    Posts are fixed, they are in metal surround brackets which have been bolted to ground. Not worth moving for a 3" move over 10ft. Even looking at it from the bottom of the garden, it still looks dead square. Its a non issue.

    Perfect so.. todays work looks great. Well done..


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    harry21 wrote: »
    :D

    I dont get it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭harry21


    dnme wrote: »
    I dont get it

    If you stay out in the cold and rain for long enough you will....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭TopTec


    I know how you feel dnme. Been trying to fit and seal a new window today - Yours is looking good dude, From your pics it seems you have made very good progress. Get that tarp over your bench it will make a huge difference = if you stay comfortable your quality of work goes up.

    Aaahhh Tishoooooo!

    TT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    Yeah I waas gonna put up a tarp yesterday, I have one on the boat and 2 small ones covering the lumber on pallets. As I was about to do it, it lashed rain and I couldn't bring myself to expose either ther boat or the lumber to that for x days. I'm now ready to start the cross members (lets call them runnerss) so a tarp will be in the way.

    Got the wall plate up on the L tonight. It runs from the corner of the L to the back door reveal (about 5 feet's worth). As I drilled into the wall, I was met with hollow block, so had to head into town and go with compression rawl bolts. Chem anchor no good here unless I managed to get special tube inserts. I live 6 miles from Boyle, so your lucky to get a screwdriver, nevermind anything a bit special like that on the hoof.

    All in all today, I had to go into town 4 times. Forgot stuff, needed stuff as the job progressed, lost stuff, you name it. Also, a few days ago, I borrowed a step ladder from a neighbour. It's a rickety old death trap, anyways, today, I fell through it (from 3rd step). By that, I mean the step broke away. Unscathed but christ what a fright. Borrowed another step ladder tonight from another neighbour. This one is mint.

    Me and Honey spent the day looking at each other miserable with rain. I kept darting in and out the backdoor which itself was taking a lashing. Everytime I ran, so did she, wise dog, likes her comfort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,758 ✭✭✭Kat1170


    Don't worry. Soon rain stopping play will be a distant memory. Keep up the good work. :D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Great feckin work dnme.

    Looks great.

    Get a cup of 'cha and you be grand.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Hi dnme,

    As you are doing such super work on the boat and lean-to project I felt obliged to make my 1000th post here !

    A lot, and I mean a lot, of people are following both these threads and are fascinated by your guile and unwillingness to give in.

    So on my 1000th post - Cheers to you !;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    vicwatson for president. Here's to the next 1000 posts vic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    24 hours later and the mood is up. It's a bright clear day, no rain since morning although it lashed here all night. So much so that it washed away a lot of my wood preservative. I've had to redo a lot of the rafters which is probably unwise. Stuff is expensive!

    I love this stage of a job. The stage where key joins or couplings start to make the job look and feel right, rigid, strong etc. After trimming all rafters to length, I have started to add runners along the rafter tops. I had initially planned to notch them and today as I uncovered the 3x2's, I had no doubts. They look awful thick. I will neeed room to get the corrugated sheet in under the gutters so the closer to the top of the rafter I can get these runners, the better. I laid the first runner unnotched along the outside. Once bolted to the L wall plate, it immediately added serious rigidity to the overall job. Then I notched the second one in 2.5cm. (I'll notch the next one in 4cm tapering my way back to the wall.

    The notching adds serious strength and looks awesome so I'm delighted I decided to take the trouble and time to do it. It involves running a plumb line along the rafters where the runner will eh.....run. Marking out the profile of the 3x2, then running a circ saw through several times with the blade set to the depth of the notch. Then bash out the leafs with a hammer and clean up with a rasp. Not for the feint hearted - standing on top of a step ladder that itself is standing on unevern ground, all the while holding a running circ saw. Look we all have to die sometime!:D

    I have two runners in tonight. Not only that but the uprights and rafters trimmed and levelled in all directions. Even the adddition of just two runners makes the job rock solid. I'm thrilled with todays progress. Out there in the sunshine, match on the radio, cuppa in hand and a big ol black lab lazing about beside you. It's literally why I do this shjt; Therapy!






    This is where I keep the job lUmber, miraculously it's remaining dry.
    Img_7866.jpg


    Slapping on the Cuprinol to the L wall plate, much easier to do it on the bench than on the wall.
    Img_7868.jpg


    The L wall plate up. Had a few issues finding good anchoring. Hollow block mostly so I had to use expanding rawl bolts. I have since taken it down to add notches for the runners before remounting it. What'll I do with the yard light? Will it work ok under the leanto roof? Might mess with headroom etc? suggestions?
    Img_7869.jpg


    All rafters trimmed to length and re-covered in preservative
    Img_7873.jpg


    Dont ya just love it when you go back to check and.....
    Img_7880.jpg



    Runners coming off L wall plate. I got these brackets in Woodies for a couple of quid each. They are strong and have a curved profile centre so they cannot bend.
    Img_7886.jpg


    Notching in the runners. Bit of hassle and time but well worth it. I'll look on at these joints with pride for years. Slapping preservative on all joints as I go.
    Image1.jpg


    I ordered my 3x2 lumber in 16's and 14's. The 16's almost fit perfectly from L wall plate to third rafter. I join the runners with a flat half lap roughly over a rafter. Looks good, strong and retains a clean profile through the runner length.
    Img_7890.jpg


    Two Runners completed
    Img_7891.jpg


    View from back door
    Img_7895.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    Looks fantastic Dnme. Love the view from your garden too!

    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    Pete67 wrote: »
    Looks fantastic Dnme. Love the view from your garden too!

    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.

    Thats a great idea !!!!

    Would light units under that thin pvc corrugated sheet be safe? I'm thinking what if it leaks, dew, condensation etc ?


  • Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 28,851 Mod ✭✭✭✭oscarBravo


    Pete67 wrote: »
    Re the yard light, you could take it down, and put a weatherproof junction box in it's place. Then clip a cable out to the new work area and put a couple of fluorescent strip lights over the boat. You could fix them to the underside of the runners. You will have light where you need it and (presumably) a switch inside the back door to switch it on and off.
    That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Get the type of fluorescent fittings that are designed for dampish areas - they're like IP55 rated or so - and you won't need to worry about water once you run the cables through glands.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭TopTec


    dnme wrote: »
    Would light units under that thin pvc corrugated sheet be safe?

    Safer than standing on top of a step ladder using a circular saw one handed !!!!

    Tut Tut dnme. Where's your helmet, harness, specs, muffs, 14 ply trousers and a mate with a red flag??

    ;);)

    TT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Looking great:D I am enjoying your updates:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    IP65 rated are the ones you want. Check local electrical wholesalers or try online, available in various lengths, single or double tube etc. Ebay has loads at good prices but mostly in the UK and shipping is a killer. But you might get lucky!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    TopTec wrote: »
    Safer than standing on top of a step ladder using a circular saw one handed !!!!

    Tut Tut dnme. Where's your helmet, harness, specs, muffs, 14 ply trousers and a mate with a red flag??

    ;);)

    TT



    Worth a watch, give it a few mins to get goin. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,783 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    Nice job dnme.
    I know we all have to die sometime but I'd rather it not be from a slow and painful bleed out after an 'incident' with a circular saw. :D

    PS: that curved profile centre in the angle brackets are known, for obvious reasons, as "bird beaks".

    Looking forward to tomorrow's episode!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    Hi dnme, regarding the lights that pete mentioned if you want to cost them roughly before you decide, go to Meteor Electrical online. Weatherproof flourescent fittings, pvc PG11 glands for the cable entries and 3x1.5 nymj cable. Their price will be a guideline but I would'nt order off them. Someday you're in Sligo hop in to Derry Taheny beside Hughes Bridge and I'll be shocked if he has'nt a better price.(and service!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    red sean wrote: »
    Hi dnme, regarding the lights that pete mentioned if you want to cost them roughly before you decide, go to Meteor Electrical online. Weatherproof flourescent fittings, pvc PG11 glands for the cable entries and 3x1.5 nymj cable. Their price will be a guideline but I would'nt order off them. Someday you're in Sligo hop in to Derry Taheny beside Hughes Bridge and I'll be shocked if he has'nt a better price.(and service!)

    Hi Sean.
    I'm seeing IP65 4ft double units on ebay for 24 quid. I don't think Derry Taheny would come close, even factoring in delivery. I went into them last year to source components for a modular 4 gang TV outlet (2 x sat, 1 x DTT, 1 x rj45). All in ...... €50. I told him what I thought about that, walked out of the shop, came home and ordered the lot on ebay for £10 + £5 delivery. As it transpired, the stuff got lost in the post so the ebay vendor re-sent the lot and refunded me in total. Freebie. ;)

    I'd love to shop local and shop Irish.....If only it wasn't so expensive and if only they valued me as a customer.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,438 ✭✭✭dnme


    BTW

    Seeing as I'm on a forum, there might be people from the trade etc knocking around. I was wondering if anyone can advise or get a trade deal on pvc roof sheets? Is anyone in the trade watching, or perhaps knows anyone in the trade? It's expensive stuff and I'll take any help I can get.


Advertisement