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Home heating automation

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 203 ✭✭Austin1


    Time to change my Climote system for hot water + upstairs + downstairs in 50yr old 3 bed semi d. App no longer works and Climote say I need to pay for new version. Think Drayton Wiser might provide a good balance with no costly monthly fees and reliable app for the basics ie timer, boost controls etc. Individual TRVs would be a useful add on. Would this suit my needs?

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/drayton-wiser-wireless-heating-hot-water-3-channel-thermostat-control-kit-white/4081v?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20425311310&gbraid=0AAAAADmaieeg4Jpnkwq7RHr5Y1Nf3hLlm&gclid=CjwKCAjwwJzPBhBREiwAJfHRnWJ28SAEhoC_TYWBYpvHoZb0_XfpyldXzPterihbMMtjDuARNhesqRoC4PEQAvD_BwE

    I have an electrician coming to do small jobs so I hope to get him to install as I would have zero confidence in doing this myself. What useful questions/instructions should I put to him? Pics of my current set up below:

    PXL_20260421_134528709.jpg PXL_20260421_134542882.jpg PXL_20260421_134554364.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    That'll work. The Drayton receiver will fit directly in place of the Climote. Wiring swap is straightforward, I'll post the the terminals numbers when I dig out the diagrams, though the electrician should be able to figure it.

    Your Viesmann boiler pressure is critically low in that image. Should be at 1 Bar. It will cut out if it gets any lower.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    • Will Tado X work for replacing:
    • Viessmann Vitodens 100 (combi boiler).
    • 2 x Salus 500 RF Thermostats setup to zone valves.
    • One is setup for UFH, the other to all other house radiators.

      Was thinking:

    Replace each Salus with Tado X Wireless Receiver setup, one controls UFH only as per previous setup.

    Smart Radiator Valves on each radiator using the "radiator" wireless receiver to activate boiler when heat required.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    TadoX, like its predecessors TadoV2 and V3, peculiarly don't allow more than one wireless thermostat to receiver in a configured 'home'. When replacing older thermostats wired to zone valves, just use Tado wired stats, but as your two thermostats are Salus RF, you need a two receiver solution.

    The options are, use a TadoX wireless kit for the UFH zone valve, the receiver replacing the salus receiver. Then use a TadoX wired thermostat directly connected to the general radiators Zone valve. This will work well especially if it is possible to locate the wired stat in a general area, landing or living room or front hall. If however, it is difficult to wire it directly to the zone valve and run a wire pair to a location where the TadoX thermostat can measure a representative value of overall house temperature,( like the current Salus does, maybe it's located in the lounge, far from its RF receiver), there is still a solution.

    As you are going to equip all radiators with TadoX TRVs, then each has it's own thermostat. To open the radiators Zone valve, you will need a receiver with a wired relay, and this is exactly what a TadoX wired stat can be configured to do. It will act as zone controller for all the TRVS, while it's own temperature measuring device is disabled for the 'room' it is in, which could be in a hot press next the the zone valve, wired in place of the radiators zone Salus receiver. This is obviously an unsuitable location to take a temperature reading, si the room created for the wired TadoX wilk have its temperature meaured by the smart radiator valve located there This configuration will mean that the Wired TadoX stat acts only as a receiver, but does not act on its own temperatue measurement device. Using a wired TadoX thermostat overcomes the limitation of a single wireless receiver X in any 'Home' installation.

    Note you can switch which zone valve gets the wireless receiver. It may be convenient to connect the wired TadoX to the UFH zone valve directly, if this valve and its salus receiver happens to be convenient the to location of the UFH area. This would allow the radiators' zone valve salus receiver to be replaced with the TadoX receiver, while the TadoX wireless thermostat could be placed in the same place as the current Salus for radiators. Finally, if you position a wired or wireless thermostat in a room which also has a TRV, you should assign the thermostat as the measuring device for that TRV, as the thermostat will have a better read of average room temperature than the sensor on the radiator valve. This prevents having two devices conflicting over the temperature in the same room.

    I hope this makes sense to you, but you just need two relay devices to electrically power the two zone valves, which in turn jointly fire the boiler via the zone valves internal relays. Two wired thermostats or one wired and one wireless fit the bill. There is no seperate TadoX radiator receiver that I am aware of. This is just either a wired stat or a wireless stat's receiver configured as the Zone controller for any TRV



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    Would another option be to use a wired Thermostat to the zone valve and link, via Tado software, a Wireless thermostat to that.

    As one area won't have TRVs due to high cost of getting so many and it's relative lack of use.

    So say I put a wired thermostat* on the UFH and then in the room with UFH I put a wireless thermostat* as the measuring device.

    Then wireless receiver connected zone valve for rads and multiple radiator TRVs connected to it for demanding heat.

    Awkward I know, let me know what you think!

    Post edited by WildCardDoW on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    Yes, a wireless sensor can use a wired stat, the wireless receiver, or act as the measuring device for a TRV (which in turn calls the boiler via a wired stat or the receiver also known as the Extension Kit). Its fairly versatile. Here I have a sensor or wireless stat, acting as a temperature measuring sensor for the same room TRV, which together trigger the boiler via the relay in the wired stat.

    Screenshot_20260617_190405_tado.jpg

    As there are no zone valves in the legacy plumbing, and there were no TRV valve heads on the rads, I converted just three to TRVs to give some finer control. Fitting these required changing the radiator valve to a TRV pin valve, a fiddly bit of plumbing, and a fair extra expense in addition to the smart hesds if you're considering a full radiator smart TRV upgrade and you can't DIY. I done just three, master bed, kitchen and main lounge. The lounge a particular success, coupled to a new larger high output radiator, it means it can be heated rapidly, but sparingly, only when needed. Kitchen can be heated only when needed, master bed needed its own means to call the heat, but herself couldn't stand the valve motor noise in the early hours as it topped up the heat, so cooler but quiter is the outcome. Pay the price for being a technophobe (and spoiling my fun!).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    Legend, nice one.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    TadoX, like its predecessors TadoV2 and V3, peculiarly don't allow more than one wireless thermostat to receiver in a configured 'home'.

    Just a heads up but Tado support said two is fine, it's not an issue with X.

    With the tado° Line X devices, it is possible to have multiple Wireless Receiver X devices in one account, which was not possible with the V3+ Line of our devices.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    That might be a misunderstanding of the question. Multiple wireless devices, thermostats, TRVs, can activate the CH relay on a wireless receiver. One wireless receiver. This is how TRVs fire the boiler. The issue is with legacy zone valves, and two CH zones The receiver can open one, and also a HW zone valve. It was not possible to use two of these receivers in a home configuration. You had to connect a wired thermostat to one of the CH zone valves, not an issue if the wiring was in place from a legacy mechanical wired wall thermostat. If your existing system has no wired CH stats, or any stats at all, you have a problem.

    The awkward solution is to use a wired Tado thermostat configured as a receiver, a 'zone controller', located next to the zone valve. This receiver function only stat is configured to use another wireless sensor stat as the measuring device, which can be placed anywhere in the optimal measuring area of the zone valve's heating area, e.g, landing or master bed for upstairs, lounge or hallway for downstairs.

    I have not seen any Tado or TadoX support material which specifies two receivers for two non wired but seperated zone valve to boiler calls. A recent AI query for TadoX confirms this. I do not see a simple boiler receiver device in their range, like a smart plug say. Just their receiver with European version. ( CH only with OpenTherm terminals) or UK/Irl version (with CH and HW relay, no OT). I'd be pleased to see this change, I never understood why a three relay version was not developed, (like the Wiser Kit3), or else allow the HW relay be reconfigured as an optional CH2, but this was probably a limitation of the original architecture of V2 and V3.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    I'll give full context of my question and their response. Couldn't get quotes to work, so best as I can.

    >I want to be sure as I know for Tado V3 two wireless kits was not suggested that it is fine for Tado X?

    >Thank you for the information.

    >With the tado° Line X devices, it is possible to have multiple Wireless Receiver X devices in one account, which was not possible with the V3+ Line of our devices.

    >If you do not plan to use the devices for the Hot Water zone, you can use the Wireless Receiver X for the German market, as they are single-channel devices and do not have the second channel that can control the Hot Water zone.

    >Yes, the devices can be added to any account without issues, no matter which market they were design ed for.

    Additionally:

    https://www.reddit.com/r/tado/comments/1qavb8c/comment/nz6l3fx



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    Finally, clarity. For V2 and V3 it was only possible if you opened a second account, seperate login, seperate "home'. I would take AI summaries with a pinch of salt normally, but the one I had gave references to TadoX literature which seemed to confirm single receiver per 'home'. Perhaps the introduced this as its now thread protocol/ border connected, maybe it makes life easier from their own 6LoWPan network and protocol, which perhaps had hardware limitations for the receivers, previously referred to as 'extension kits'.

    The two different receivers for UK and EU have always existed, the single relay EU version would be an ideal second zone receiver, probably a bit expensive unless purchased as part of a discounted starter kit, which appears occasionally for €99 for wireless stat and receiver on Tado DE or amazon DE. The one with the HW relay would do too,just ignore it or use as a timer for.. something.

    Post edited by deezell on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,773 ✭✭✭Bluefoam


    I've being involved in this thread for years. And I'm running a Nest system with two thermostats but I think that's too much for my parents. Their house has just been redone with a new gas heating system and they need a controller run by a phone and they used to have Climote on the old system which was actually fine for them. But now it isn't provided by their provider. So they would need to have a SIM card and apparently the installers are looking for a €40/year subscription for the SIM card. What do you recommend for a three-zone house these days? Hive, Ecobee, Aqara, Nest? The current thermostats are EPH.

    What's the best option in terms of simplicity and overall cost of fitting and saving? They aren't looking for the most capable or the best, just something easy to use.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    It's hard to find information about Aquara products in relation to uk/eu switched live zoned control. The eu site, https://eu.aqara.com/collections/smart-home-controller is full of device images which link to nothing. Aside from that. I wouldn't be keen on having automation products from a Chinese company with servers located there. Ecobee are a Canadian company, and again its difficult to find references to Eu/UK standards, the Canadian and US market has a completely alien connection standard for domestic HVAC, and I wouldn't advise buying unless you were willing to trash through all their technical product data to find devices that are compatible with our switched live mains standards. The Nest products originally fell into this category, over 11 years ago I was asked to put in a Nest kit, only to discover it was the American version with multiple low voltage terminals, useless for the gas boiler SL connection where it was to be used. They were literally just developing the European and UK one, Amazon had to take back a lot of unusable ones. This quirk with the Nest continued to this day, and the switched live receiver versions were withdrawn, with Google/Nest removing European products and server support, but staying in the US low voltage market.

    The devices that work well here for a simple, DIY even, upgrade of a three zone S plan system are Hive, Drayton wiser Kit 3, and Tado V3 or TadoX. Drayton in particular is a box for box swapout of the EPH controller, replacing the wall stats with wireless stats and just making insulated joints of the EPH stats' wired connections prior to removing them and concealing the jointed cables in the walls. I'm assuming the EPH in question uses old mechanical wired wall stats.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,773 ✭✭✭Bluefoam


    Thanks, I'm going to do some research into the eph ember. That might be a really good option depending on what way the wiring is, on what's been put in. Other than that, I think you're right about the Hive and it seems to be readily available and I'm sure I can get a fitter to to do that, but the Ember might be something that I could fit myself if it's a simple route.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    The Ember is a wireless version of the wired EPH, the ember controller would just mount directly onto the base plate of the existing EPH controller, the mechanical stats wired out as described above (or also just turned up full so as to complete the circuit to the zone valves. This will work for Hive or Drayton wireless also). The Ember has WiFi connectivity and App control, but it's a poor relation to all the others in terms of programming and smart features. Its also a costly option, the Ember PS08 kit with 2 wireless stats, controller, Internet hub plus the wireless HW cylinder sensor is running at €450.

    Drayton kit 3 is currently €230 in Screwfix, very simple install in place of the old EPH controller, and no additional HW cylinder wireless stat, an unnecessary addition to the ember anyway, as the mechanical HWcylinder stat if fitted is sufficient in conjunction with the timer settings.

    You can also replace your controller with Tado V3 starter kit wireless with one stat and HW timer, plus an additional wired Tado stat which will drop straight in, in place of one of the old EPH stats. V3 wireless kits as little as €74 in screwfix, additional wired stat maybe €100.

    Installation of 2 Hive Mini room stats and receivers, one CH only and one with a HW relay and ahub is about €270 for both kits.

    All the above are full featured smart systems, with advanced features over the basic Ember. In your case the Drayton would be a very simple install, and its been described mutiple times in this thread, including wiring transfer schematics. We do lack a tidy way to search back on threads though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 al2025


    @deezell you have provided great advice to me on an old account previously,(thank you), I have a friends house, UFH through out. 3 manifolds, roughly 18 stats, old fashioned on/off GSHP. Any recommendations at all on where to start to get this app based (currently hardwired Danfoss stats, wired back to Rehau hubs, any stat can bring on heat pump)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    If you think of it in terms of 18 zones each with its own motorised zone valve hardwired back to its individual thermostat switch. All you need to do to smarten this up is replace all 18 danfoss thermostats with with wired smart thermostats. There are a number of options. Tado and Netatmo both make wired thermostats. 18 is some number. Are there 18 rooms? If you could get 18 wired Tado or TadoX , currently €90 a pop plus a €60 hub, you're looking at €1680. You might want to consolidate some of the UHF zones into groups, under the control of a single smart stat, to keep the cost and complexity down. There's also the issue of the battery powered nature of most smart stats, the TadoX would generally last a season, each requiring 3 AAA Alkaline, and maybe an hour to go round all 18 once a year

    At this point I should ask which model Danfoss stats are used. Are they simple mechanical stats, or powered digital display, if powered, is it by mains or battery? Also, if they are electronic stats do you know if they have floor temperature sensors. which is not uncommon in total UFH systems to prevent uncomfortabe floor overheating, but may not be fitted given the slow nature of Heatpump UFH. See if you can answer these question, re the necessity for 18 zones, if the stats are electronic, and if they have a floor sensor in addition to a general ambient air temperature sensor.

    There is a Danfoss Icon2 UFH connected system, effectively wireless wall stats linked to the receiver valve controller. The hardware for an 8 stat system is about €1700, so 18 maybe €3500 at a guess.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 al2025


    Thanks Deezell for the reply, the stats are 230v wired digital display, air sensing, no floor probes. Already looking at consolidating stats and maybe reducing to 2 downstairs and 2 upstairs, saw these on screwfix and stats seem reasonable price, is this gear reliable or are we better paying more, they want remote access.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 al2025


    apologies, forgot the link:https://www.screwfix.ie/p/jg-underfloor-jgwc4-underfloor-heating-wiring-centre-8-zones-240v/551ta



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    I'm assuming there is already a 16 input wiring centre, which is used to combine the stat calls into a single call to the heat pump, while each stat individually opens its Rehau hub valve to that stats area. This is the purpose of the wiring centre, otherwise if you just join all stats' switched lives together to fire the HP, and stat wull then open thr valves to all UFH zones.

    All you will need to do to group the 18 into 4 groups is pick one stat from each group to be the master, and bridge that at the controller to all the valves in its domain. Say you have 5 seperate stats in 5 bedrooms, you just pick a master stst to manage heating for them all, and remove the others. Similarly with reception areas, offices and studies, halls, and landings. 4 might be a bit broad, two 4s and two 5s. 6 stats would give an average if 3 UFH zones combined.

    As your current stats are mains powered, you can replace these with other brands of connected stats which can take power from the mains. Heatmiser wired Neostats which can operate as individual programmable thermostat/timers can be coupled to a the Neohub gateway to give app control of operation and programming, with some smart features such as Homelit access. Their programming like the EPH is fairly basic last time I looked, but they are robust and reliable, and being mains powered require no battery support. Stats cost about €85 each, the Neohub is about €200.

    You can also consider wireless stats, which if consolidating multiple UFH zones gives you the flexibility to move the stat for those grouped zones into an optional compromise location, or even placed on a stand to move around. Some stat kits with the receiver relay are little more than the cost of a wired stat. Hive mini plus receiver relay is about €99. The receiver can be mounted and powered back at the wiring centre or in place of the danfoss. The wireless stat to this receiver can be located anywhere in the general area of the combined zones it controls. The receiver will be connected to operate as many of the UHF zones valves as you wish to join by just bridging the stat inputs for that group to the switched live out of the receiver.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 al2025


    There are 3 of the hubs wired in locally to each manifold, there is an additional board to control a boost pump, presumably if enough loops call for heat.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,666 ✭✭✭deezell


    Just to avoid confusion, when you say Rehau hub, you are referring to the valve actuators on the flow amd return manifold, these;

    rehau-240011-002-testina-elettrica_1024x1024.jpg

    The term hub is generally looslely used for the interface between thermostats and the Internet, but each manufacturer often use their own, hub, hubR, bridge etc. The wiring centre essential for thr circuit heavy cintril of UFH migh also be be referrred to a wiring hib or a lex boc.

    Are there 18 of these actuators spread over a number of manifolds, and are there 18 seperate UFH connections. Is there a single wiring centre box for all 18 thermostats, or is the system split into a number of wiring centres. Is it possible even that some thermostats are just crossed connected with each other, opening the same actuators? If you want the simplest way of doing this and reducing the number of stats, you'll just need to identify each stat's switched live entry to the wiring centre, and cross connect those you wish to group, abd remove all bar one of the grouped thermostats, replacing that one with a smart wired stat if your choice. The actuators generally have a pilot lamp so should be easy to log which stat opens which manifold actuator. Rewiring a new wiring centre and mapping all the connections out to various pumps and possibly motorised valves will make a big task of what could be simple, even incremental. You could start by simply replacing one Danfoss stats with a TadoX wired starter kit (Stat and Internet bridge/ border router). Use this to gain app control of the most important zone, and take it from there.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 al2025


    I like the idea of the Tado starter kit, I'll give them the options, it predates pilot lamps, the heat pumps are nearly 20years old, running well though. Pic of manifold (1 of 3) and wiring "hub"

    rehau hub IMG_1414.jpeg underfloor manifold f40a9304-599c-483b-bd66-2ac653a2fe3f.jpg


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 10,340 ✭✭✭✭mik_da_man


    I was in a similar situation a few years back and with some great advice here went with Drayton Wiser.

    It's a great bit of kit, fantastic functions and interface and can be picked up quite cheaply on Screwfix and Amazon. Offered much better value for money than any of the others for me.



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