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Hyundai Kona

1567911

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 174 ✭✭Basilio


    ASAP if yours from Jan 2019. What is the mileage?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 417 ✭✭munsterfan2




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 618 ✭✭✭bonoman66


    April 2019 provides no safeguard at all from this issue - do not dismiss this from being checked. It'll potentially cost you thousands to fix out of warranty. Owners have had their GRU (gearbox in ICE car) replaced, the sound went away, but came back months later. They then had to have their motor replaced (like the engine in ab ICE car)

    Kia acknowledged the issue first in approx April 2021.

    Hyundai dragged their heels took a further 12 months to formally acknowledge the issue finally in approx March / April 2022.

    Both Kia & Hyundai issued TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) to their internal technical / maintenance teams advising them on a 3 step process to try validate & address the issue.


    Here is the Kona TSB (the Kia is very similar)..


    Step 1 was to tighten / replace the mounting brackets on the Motor / GRU.

    Step 2 (If that didn't solve the tapping / knocking) was to test the GRU by removing it from car, testing it on a bench to see if the sound could be replicated & identified as originating there) & if necessary replace the GRU. (Wait time required for GRU to be replaced as they need authorization from Hyundai to order it as its expensive).

    Step 3 (If Step 2 is not the solution) - Replace the Motor (Wait time required for GRU to be replaced as they need authorization from Hyundai to order it as its expensive).

    I have read plenty on Kona Electric Owner & Kia eNiro Forums where cars showing the issue were purchased or manufactured anywhere between Dec 2018 & I think 2020 or 2021 (not exactly sure). I have also read to several owners who have had both the GRU AND Motor replaced. Some only get the GRU replaced initially & then have to go back & get the Motor replaced.

    There must have been several dodgy batches involved or some form of design flaw with internal components for some period of time while the Kona was being manufactured for the first few years.


    I've heard of some Kona Electric owners reporting this sound to their dealers when they bought their car new & the sound developed after 12 months (but that timeframe could be variable & may be dependent on the driving style of the owner). The dealers or tech teams are often behind the owner community when it comes to knowledge sharing or awareness of common problems. So typically dealers initially told owners everything was fine between Dec 2019 & April 2022 (until Hyundai formally acknowledged the problem & issued the TSB for it) when it was actually quite the opposite & a serious issue.

    I would be very focused on this sound - better safe than sorry (or deeply out of pocket).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 417 ✭✭munsterfan2


    Hyundai just messaged me to day to arrange a diagnostics with local dealer. Will keep thread updated.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman


    Mine (191) has a motor noise that kicks infrom around 80km/h and gets louder the faster you go.

    Brought it to dealer and showed them the TSB (girl hardly glanced at it, but said she'd tell mechanics).

    They said they brought car for a drive and heard the noise but its normal motor noise. I said it wasn't there for the first 2 years, so I can't see how it's normal.

    Going to book in again ASAP because I just realised a 5 year warranty means mine will be up next month 😞



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 618 ✭✭✭bonoman66


    Hyundai state:

    Applicable Vehicles: Certain 2019-2020MY Kona Electric (OS EV) vehicles produced until 1/19/2021.

    So don't focus on the month of January or even the year of 2019 !

    The Kona Electrics exhibiting this issue have had huge variations in their mileage at the time their owners noticed the tapping / knocking sound so do not assume its a high mileage caused issue - its definitely happened in very low mileage Kona Electrics as well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 417 ✭✭munsterfan2


    51k when I bought it, done about 8k in last 2 months. So just under 60k ( km)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 618 ✭✭✭bonoman66


    That sounds unusual if it wasn't there for first 2 years.

    However it could be a different issue to the one I've posted the TSB about here as that issue was mostly evident at lower speeds. It did increase in frequency for some owners meaning as they drove faster the knocking / tapping got faster & then may have turned into a whine at higher speeds. Definitely get it checked out further & get it in writing from them that they say its ok (in case it turns into a motor or GRU issue out of warranty, it might give you some leverage).

    Hope you get sorted.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 618 ✭✭✭bonoman66


    Print out the first couple of pages of that TSB & bring with you or show it on your phone. Make sure they know that you are very aware that Hyundai have already acknowledged a problem like this exists & needs to be checked & fixed etc.. (So they don't think they cab easily fob you off).

    I know of 1 owner who was fobbed off for 2.5 years when they repeatedly went to their dealer telling them of this noise. When they went in with the TSB & quoted what the dealer tech teams needed to do, step by step, they ended up having their whole drive motor replaced under warranty & the sound went away! The dealer even asked them not to mention this (that their drive motor needed to be replaced) to anyone!! Don't be fobbed off & make sure they know you are educated about it so you can talk strongly about it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 174 ✭✭Basilio


    On the service history of my Apr2019 Kona it states Battery/Motor replaced. No issues at all. Covered over 80K, parts replaced 08.22 at about 46K.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,930 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I would also leave another copy of tsb on passenger seat so actual mechanic may see it.

    If I was 1 month from.warranty I was would get an independent "expert" such as a specialist EV dealer to drive it and give a written statement that the sound is not normal. Dealers are known to play down issues under warranty and they need approval from HQ to do expensive work so they may be told by HQ to not investigate properly. I would also record the sound and if possible get an independent mechanic to confirm it's coming from motor/gearbox by using a sound stick or similar. A rolling road may be needed to confirm.

    I warned in the Hyundai Ioniq thread to get gearbox (reduction box) oil changed independently early as it might help reduce the issue. There are videos on YouTube of ioniq procedure, probably identical on Kona. I did mine in my old car and my newer car as soon as I got it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Jakey Rolling


    Picked up a 211 Kona 64kWh recently - it's yet to show any more than 400km range at 100% charge.

    Driving economy is at 14.5kWh/100k since we got it. Only use ECO driving mode

    It was in Winter Mode - tried disabling this but no improvement in indicated range.

    I'm not overly concerned, as this range is sufficient for 90+% of our usage, but can I expect it to improve in warmer weather?

    100412.2526@compuserve.com



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,158 ✭✭✭innrain


    Actually if you divide 64kWh to 14.5kWh/100 km you get 440ish km. 14.5kWh/100km it is a quite good consumption rate. The display which we call it Guess-o-Meter or GOM tries to estimate how much range is left. I wouldn't put to much faith in it and personally I'm a bit annoyed I can't switch the range display off. If you take the car on the motorway your consumption would increase to 18-20kWh/100km and the range will loose 3km for every 2 km driven or so. To answer your question yes in the warm weather GOM would think it has more energy available and predict better range. Also will use less energy to warm up the car, driving is a bit more efficient overall contributing to better range.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 618 ✭✭✭bonoman66


    Obviously depending on your driving style (not constant heavy right foot :-)) but Yes is the answer to your question.

    Many Kona Electric owners (64kWh Battery) easily get 450-500KMs on a full charge during warm weather. Providing its not solely high speed motorway driving.

    Even if you drive the Kona 64 in Sport Mode during warm weather and have a mix of town, short motorway bursts, backroads, you can get that sort of 450-500Km range on a full charge.

    Absolutely nothing to be concerned about - its one of the best smaller EVs you can buy & very efficient overall.#

    If you mostly drive on the motorway, in sport mode :-) , at constant motorway speeds you may expect circa 300 - 340 KM Range from 100% charge, with external wind, temperatures, rain all playing their part in determining how far you'll get.



  • Registered Users Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Jakey Rolling


    Thx - switched on Sport mode in the wet the other day and almost left the road, some kick!

    Think I will horse it the 200k up to Dublin at 130kph, just to p*ss of those drivers that think EVs need to drive at pedestrian pace :-)

    (will of course have to recharge at the in-laws to get home)

    100412.2526@compuserve.com



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,300 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    In a word, yes, our 2019 Kona gets just over 400km range in Summer so your 2021 should no hassle (driving style aside)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,163 ✭✭✭Firblog


    Hi folks, looking for some info re charging speeds for kona 2019, OH has one and lately doesn't seem to be charging at anything above 50kw, normally below that. Would this be due to cooler weather? Using many different fast chargers - 100 - 150kw, when haven driven 200km+ on long journey, but never charges above 50kw, wouldn't reach 80% charge from 11% in 45mins last time she was charging - seems really slow, should it be charging faster?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,158 ✭✭✭innrain


    Max I got 73kW at Ionity in summer. Here is the best case scenario




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,930 ✭✭✭zg3409


    That's normal. 50kW, theoretical max of 70kW. The max rates are only for a short time in peak summer in hot countries. One of the issues with kona 64kWh is relatively slow real world charging rates meaning 1+ hours to refill. Normally I grab the absolute minimum at public chargers, just enough to get home. Even if it did 70kW it still takes a long time to fill at that rate compared to other cars at 150 or 250kW peaks.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,163 ✭✭✭Firblog


    Travelling from Donegal to Waterford, she is grabbing the absolute minimum LOL :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    Anyone got their reduction gear replaced? Ive noticed the car has gotten louder when accelerating. It's not a clicking noise like I've seen described but more of a whirring sound. Warranty is out in 2 weeks so I've got it booked in. Hopefully they don't play ignorant with the noise!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman


    That sounds similar to what I have as well.

    I had it in with them last summer and they said it was normal motor noise, but I told them it hadn't been making that noise previously.

    Had it in with them again this week as my warranty is up this week and I wanted it on record that I had raised it again before warranty expired. they said they brought it out for a drive but the roads were v wet (which they were) so couldn't hear anything because of road noise.

    Since I got it back from them (had it serviced as well), the noise is actually worse and is audible at 60km/h whereas previously it would have been at closer to 100 km/h



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman


    Is yours like this?

    Mine is nowhere near as bad but still noticeable - to me at least


    https://youtu.be/Sjaw__LmjSk?si=0SRLWTJ_4EQ1mT65



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    No doesn't sound like that. The best way I can describe it is it's like the 'normal' acceleration noise from the motor has just gotten significantly louder. Really noticeable when accelerating up from 30kmhr up to 80. It's not so bad yet though that if it wasn't pointed out you might miss it.


    What dealer did you have yours checked at?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman




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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    I've mine in Dundrum. Haven't had the best experience with them but it was the only place I could get appointment before end of the warranty. Hopefully they play ball!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭Tony H


    dont have the Kona any more but had Complete Traction Motor Assembly replacement (Electric motor, drive gear & motor assembly) 

    there's a huge thread here about the issue

    dont let them fob you off , its a known issue .



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    So just had the car in today and it needs a complete drive motor replacement. Relieved that the issue arose now and not a week later when the warranty was out!

    All the same I'm a bit disappointed that a 5 year old car has needed such massive works, between the battery recall and now the motor replacement. Doesn't fill me with confidence going into a period of ownership with an expired warranty



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman


    Well that gives me the shivers....

    The noise in mine is only noticeable really when going >80km/h and the dealer said they couldn't hear it the day I brought it in, which could have been true because the roads were wet, so its not that loud.

    I'm still worried it's the same issue but dealer keeps saying its normal or that they can't hear anything so not sure what else I can do other than trade in the car.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    I think the issue is a more common than the 1% of cars that I've heard.

    My car didn't even have the same noises as the others have mentioned and it was only heard on acceleration not deceleration as described in the TSB.


    Maybe there are few different issues with the motor?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    Sounds like we may have the same issue.


    The mechanic said some of the bearings had gone in the motor so it wasn't the same problem as mentioned in the TSB. The gear reduction unit is fine which explains why the noise is different. All the same it needs a new drive motor anyway. Id get back on to Hyundai Ireland if I were you.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Charging door wouldn't open this evening. See that this can be a problem in Konas. We thought maybe the cold weather might be affecting it. OH suggested hot water on it and it worked. Just for anyone who might experience similar.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    Has anyone figured out how to update the infotainment and firmware. Mine is 2019 without maps/navigation and there doesn't seem to be a version for that on the Hyundai updater app.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,189 ✭✭✭Royale with Cheese


    Does anyone own the new Kona EV? My parents picked one up two weeks back and it looks like Hyundai gave them a single phase charging cable, they're only getting 7kw with it but I've tested the car with my own cable and it can pull 10.5kw from an on street AC charger. Just wondering whether this was a mistake by Hyundai or by design.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,792 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Most home chargers are single phase and are limited to 32A, 7.2kW unless they have three phase available at the meter box.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,189 ✭✭✭Royale with Cheese


    It's an on street charger I'm talking about here. Their home charger is tethered.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,792 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Oh got you.

    Have a look at the contacts within the cable (type 2 in the image)...

    if you can only see a metal contact in L1 then you have a singe-phase cable (limited to 7.2kW), or if you have L1, L2 and L3 then it's a three-phase cable.

    Hyundai probably handed out the only cable that they had - a single phase one, as the older Kona was limited to 7.2kW.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,930 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I think it happened before where an 11kW model was supplied with the wrong cable and after back and forth the correct cable was supplied.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,189 ✭✭✭Royale with Cheese


    Well they just contacted Hyundai and got told that's the cable that was supplied to us with the car from the factory so basically fúck off.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,792 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Contact Hyundai Ireland and ask them if the new Kona should have a 11kW cable or a 7kW cable. As I mentioned you can check it by looking at the cable. 11 kW is 3-phase.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,808 ✭✭✭mailforkev


    Contact Hyundai yourself, mention that's it's a bit disappointing, etc. Never trust the dealership that they have actually checked.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous




  • Registered Users Posts: 23 Valentin_N


    I notice a lot of used 2019-2020 Konas for sale, if I were to guess around 10% of all the cars ever sold in Ireland for that time.

    Does anyone have an aggregated view of failure rates for the electric motor or the gear reducer unit (transmission)? Reading international forums, this seems to be a fairly common problem, but I haven't found a failure rate backed by any data. For this specific problem the faulty parts are sometimes replaced within warranty, but this seems to only move the next failure outside of warranty. Has Hyundai Ireland shown any goodwill on this issue?

    Post edited by Valentin_N on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,930 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Are you having an issue?

    I saw on forums that if the motor or gearbox (reduction box) were separately replaced then the other part may need to be replaced later. Ideally both parts should be replaced. It seems like the mating between both parts was misaligned or faulty and both parts would ideally be replaced to prevent future trouble. If out of warranty and no goodwill I would look for a non dealer specialist like to one in Arklow to source and replace a new motor and reduction box from a crashed car. Even replacing bearings may not be enough as I doubt the bearings themselves were faulty, more likely over strain caused them to fail. From a repair point if view it's safer to swap everything in terms of labour to disassemble and reassemble everything and preventing reoccurrence in the future.

    If buying a car out of warranty it's a risk, first thing would be to test drive and compare noise, if buying replace gearbox oil ASAP. Keep a few thousand emergency fund in case the worst happens.



  • Registered Users Posts: 23 Valentin_N


    I'm looking to buy a used 2019 Kona 64 with very little manufacturer warranty left and at most 1 year main dealer warranty. I doubt the dealer would entertain replacing a motor or a gear reduction unit under their own warranty, as even getting them to acknowledge this type of defect seems to be a challenge.

    Some other forums went quite deep into the analysis of the various different types of failures that exhibit the same symptoms (noise when accelerating or regenerating). The general consensus seems to be that there is a design problem that eventually leads to 100% of the cars eventually experiencing this failure given enough time. I'm not sure I would believe such a grim conclusion without any supporting data.

    In order to make an informed buying decision I'd like to get a realistic sense of the odds of failure and to know what my options are in case the failure happens outside the standard 5 year manufacturer warranty.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    Just to add to this. I brought mine in 2 weeks before warranty was out with motor noise. Not the clicking noise on most YT videos but more of a whirring noise. They replaced the traction motor only and said the reduction gear was tested and was fine.

    2 weeks later and the noise was back (not really sure if it actually went away). Car now out of warranty but brought it back and and they've agreed to change the reduction gear at no cost to me.

    Long story short, both need to be changed in most cases I think and if they just change one or other prepare for the other part to go in the near future.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭cunnifferous


    Got my car back today. Didn't realise how noisy the reduction gear was until it was swapped out. At least, although my car is the 5 years old, the battery was replaced 1 year ago and the entire drivetrain in the last month. Practically a new car 😅



  • Registered Users Posts: 42 zozimus


    Thought I'd post my experience of the Hyundai Kona EV 2020 after nearly 3 years of driving. I bought the Ultimate edition in Northern Ireland because I was desperate for a Head Up Display and the specs here weren't great. The price was good and it has held its value.

    Repairs and maintenance - I had the 12V battery replaced fairly early on. It's a known issue. It broke down in the driveway and the AA guy didn't want to go near it because it was electric. I've learned since that it's best to keep a jump-start battery in the car for such occasions, but of course I haven't had to use it.

    The brake pads and discs are still fine and have plenty left in them.

    I changed the tires before they wore out because I wanted to go for something quieter.

    I topped up the washer fluid a few times. Oh and when some bulbs went I replaced them with the LED versions. Aside from that it has been trouble and maintenance free.


    Driving

    The car is much easier to drive that the diesel I had before. I leave it on max regen so it's nearly one-pedal driving. I also leave all the driver assistance on so that it nudges me into lane and keeps distance etc. The adaptive cruise is brilliant.

    It goes like a rocket especially in Sports Mode. Bit scary.

    Handling

    It's an SUV style so doesn't handle as well as the Volvo C30 I had before. So you wouldn't be throwing it around corners. Having said that, the low centre of gravity with the battery offsets that to a large extent so it's fine.

    Range

    I really don't notice the range as I just drive it and charge at home. But if I'm going between Cork and Dublin, say - then I usually stop off for a 15 minute fast charge on the way down and maybe the same on the way back. The farthest I ever got was 490km on a single charge in the Summer and driving conservatively.

    I'd love to know if there is battery degradation but the garage don't seem to understand what I'm asking. I kept asking them to get a readout and they kept giving me the 12v battery readout. 5 times. So I'll get an ODB2 dongle and find out myself sometime. Forums say that it's not a problem so I'm not too concerned, just curious.

    Value

    The resale value for the spec and mileage is still very high. I don't expect that to last if the UK is anything to go by, but as it's a 64KW top of the range I think it's going to continue to be respectable.

    Overall it's so good it's boring :-)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭spakman


    Good to hear, I have a 191. Was thinking of changing, but given the price volatility at the moment, I might just hold onto it.

    What tyres did you put on it? One of my front tyres is fairly worn and causing a fair bit of road noise I think.



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