the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Stupid question to start the week.

In general, are all 9 speed Shimano rd and shifters compatible?*

Mate has a 2007 Specialized Rockhopper with 3x9 Deore derailleurs. Would they be compatible with these Sora R3000

*I know there's some mid 90's Dura Ace stuff that's not.

Perfect, Cram. That's what I thought myself, but I'm always more cautious when recommending other people to buy parts.

Nothing maintenance related, just airing frustration. I've posted previously about the freehub of my new MTB grinding. Dropped the wheel into the shop the other week as they're now requesting a full wheel replacement since they still haven't received a new freehub.

Bike was bought at the end of February and this happened at the beginning of April. Wheel specs list it as Deore but it seems to be OEM so an off the shelf replacement won't work.

Lucky I bought a new wheelset otherwise I'd have no use of the €1,600 bike for the last 5 months.

This is my first non-Canyon in a decade and this is what I get, thanks Orbea!

I have Tiagra 9-speed road shifters from 2010 with new Sora FD & RD, it works fine.

Thanks for the information.

I have the tool for removing it too (see top corner in the image below), but im debating if replacing individual bearings constitutes a serviceable part. It may be easier to just replace the whole freehub.

There're a couple of online calculators you can play with. https://www.omnicalculator.com/sports/bike-cadence-and-speed-calculator will show the speed you'll go at for a given cadence, so to use your example 34/34 @70RPM will have you motoring along at 8.95km/h. Flip to a 36/30 and to do the same speed, you'd be grinding at about.

So you can do (let's call it 9km/h) at 70RPM, how big a mountain will that get up up. Go to http://bikecalculator.com/, stick bike and self details, gradient, and speed in to the values and it'll show you the power needed (you can change power and it'll show you speed). You can also put the distance in and it'll tell you how long it'll take to climb so you can figure out it you're able to sustain that power that long.

Honestly I would say no, if you’d dropped it into them once you noticed there was shifting issues the first time and they attempted to fix it then yeah or it dropped before you touched it, but since you adjusted the limit screws yourself which was more than likely the cause of the dropped chain, can’t really say it’s directly their fault.

Folks, how would I know which barb and olive I need for Shimano GRX.

From looking online, it seems the be BH-90, but I'd like to be sure before ordering

Hi, I picked up a 2nd hand bike that came with some sort of bull horns I guess you would call them.

Is there an wasy way to remove them so I just have a fully straight handlebar per se?

Thanks

Not that bolt, it holds the grip in place.

A little more to the left there should be a bolt on the bar end itself. Loosen and remove.

Then you could move the grips and brake levers outward.

You can move the brake levers and grips or leave them in current position.

I'd prefer to move them out and utilize the full handlebars but perfectly acceptable as is too.

Thanks both ^^, I should probably cycle the bike first! Then see how it feels and make any changes for it to be more comfortable.

If I find I only leave my hands on the foamy/grip part as is, I can look to maybe cut the edges of the handlebars? Otherwise, if I want to cycle with my hands wider then I should move the foamy/grip part out wider along with the brakes.

Thank you

I'm trying to fit a front mudguard but the fork mount seems too high on my bike to get as close as I would like to the tire. See photo below. SKS Bluemels 35mm on a Genesis Equilibrium Disc.

Is there anything that I can do here or any other type of bridge I could get to mount to the fork?

If it was me, I would drill out the rivets holding the L bracket in place, then go to my local hardware and get a bracket with a longer leg, and rivet it in place.

But that's just me