the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CuriousCat!

Hi all,

I've a trek 7.2 hybrid. I've just got it serviced and received a quote to the tune €240, I need a rear wheel replacement, both tyres, 2 brake cables, 4 brake pads, pedals and the €40 service fee.

Does this sound about right or is it somewhat on the overpriced end of things? Thanks in advance.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120504400#Comment_120504400

Sounds expensive in proportion to the value of the bike but I guess that’s about the size of it and there’s no getting away from it if those parts are required

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120500390#Comment_120500390

Chainring 50euro, Cassette 40euro, chain 20euro, tyres 100euro, so that's €210 without labour, accounting for convenience or holding stock. Your also comparing it to online shops like CRC who can often sell cheaper than the Irish Distributors. Maybe 20 minutes work but for a decent mechanic, 10 minutes but also depends on how good a condition your bike was in, it could be a lot longer if there are any issues. Not to mention the once over they probably gave as part of a typical service.

Long story short, you got a very reasonable price in the current economy, in my opinion.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120504400#Comment_120504400

Without any info on the wheel or tyres it is impossible to say but the cheapest for a half usable new rear wheel might be 80euro, tyres, lets say gatorskins as there is a price in the posts before yours of 90euro, pedals (cheap, flat, bargain basement pair) 15euro and 15euro for the cables and brake pads. An even 200 for going cheap on parts and the 40euro service charge.

I do think cyclists in Ireland were so well serviced by local mechanics doing things at effectively cost price that they don't realise what they would have been charged in any other industry.

Cabaal

I have shimano hydralic discbrakes, no issue with the rotor and no damage to anything else, the affectiveness has degraded over the time and the back brakes aren't applying properly.

Would I be correct in thinking I need to basically perform this maintenance?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK9m8sh5L3U

magicbastarder

it's possible the pads are just a bit contaminated; do they squeal in the wet?

Cabaal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120531939#Comment_120531939

No its def not that, the brake handle can be pulled fully and the brakes are only barely applying to the rotor.

magicbastarder

if you can see that the pads are engaging with the disc, and that there's still a lot of pull left in the brake lever, that would imply something in the hydraulic system, i suspect.

Cabaal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120532184#Comment_120532184

I'll pick up a bleed kit and see how things pan out, I strongly suspect that may be the issue.

magicbastarder

is this for the new bike? i'd be bringing that back to the shop (if they're local). you shouldn't ahave to bleed the brakes that quickly.

i've a 20 year old bike where the brakes were working fine last time i used it (a few years ago, admittedly)

CramCycle

How long have you had the bike? Could it be the pads just need replacing?

Squidgy Black

Before going the bleeding route I’d pop the pads out and make sure the pistons aren’t just stuck.

Quick spray of brake cleaner and stick a tyre lever or pad separator in between and apply the brake to see if they move at all

Pa ElGrande

Have a problem where the chain is going slack when I stop pedaling. Rather than end up crashing, I investigated and found the rear hub is sticking badly. It's a Formula DC-22 rear hub. I found the problem, some ball bearing disintegrating, but also the ball bearing shield (shown) is well pitted and not even round on the internal circumference. I went to the LBS, they had no spares in the workshop and they generally replace these hub types rather than repair them. Another ideas where I can source said part? or know any bike shops stock repair kits for said hub?

Alternatively if I have to consider replacing the hub, are there any suggestions on what to look for in a hub? ( 9 speed Shimano on a bike frame that will only take quick release skewers.)

retalivity

My left pedal came off when out this morning, came clean off the screw (bolt?) attaching it to the crank, rather than the whole pedal itself. Had the pedals for about 3 years with no issues, last had them off about 2 years ago. Any idea what could have caused it, other than regular use/wear and tear? The rubber washer thing inside was worn and the threading was worn as well, couldnt get it screwed back on so limped home with one pedal.

I was lucky that i was seated on a small incline when it came off, so want going fast and the foot just slipped off. If i was standing or at speed id shudder to think what would have happened

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120538641#Comment_120538641

Were you backpedalling a lot? As far as I know, those look keo pedals have a left hand thread to remove them from the spindle itself. The other option could be that they were overtightened, and the threads were stripped

If you could take some closer photos of both the spindle (particularly the threads) and the internal thread of the pedal, the issue might be a bit clearer.

Edited to add: Actually, if you look at the end of the spindle, the silver bit rotates in the bearing inside the pedal body. It looks a bit rusty and pitted. If that was seized, pedalling would have resulted in overtightening at the threads, which could have caused failure.

CantGetNoSleep

This does feel like a stupid question - does anyone know what type of rotor fits this wheelset?

It is a Fulcrum Racing 6 DB , there are no rivets on the inside, just on the outside as you see in the photo.

I ordered a set of Shimano RT54s but they were internal lockring, so sent them back and bought external. The external ones use a different tool to fit (bb tool vs. cassette lockring tool), but they still seemed to be designed for rivets on the inside rather than outside of the hub. I've also tried a 6-bolt adapter and that doesn't fit either.

Any ideas before I go mad? They are for a bike that I've had almost ready for a month, ordered from Germany each time so a bit of wait and these are the last things I need to get it on the road.

retalivity

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120538713#Comment_120538713

I wasn't knowingly backpedalling a lot, but maybe its as youve said, the silver bit is worn and seized up. Im out at the mo, will look again and take another photo when i get home

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120538871#Comment_120538871

Shimano Centerlock, slide it on and then a lockring like a trackbike will hold it in place

statto25

Anyone have any experience with a rattling Ultegra lever? Disc brake lever where the downshifter lever will go beyond the right of the brake/upshift lever if the road is rough. The position isn't as important as the damn rattle which causes the thing to move

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120535591#Comment_120535591

That looks knackered to me. This popped up on a search - it looks like it's got both the cup shown, and bearings, plus other bits. UK site thought so Brexit shenanigans probably https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/formula_dc22_rear_hub_axle_kit-6127

CantGetNoSleep

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120539163#Comment_120539163

Thanks - I've just learned that Fulcrum use their own lock ring standard called AFS. Cheapest I can find them online is about 30€ delivered for a pack of 4

Another one of those why the **** can't the bike industry just agree on one way of doing something simple like attaching a brake rotor

at1withmyself

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120539065#Comment_120539065

Back pedaling would have no impact on the pedals. It's probably down to wear and tear, Amy chance they were making a creaking or crackling noise before failing?

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120541966#Comment_120541966

Campag centrelocks should work with the AFS as well I think

retalivity

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120541976#Comment_120541976

There was a bit of cracking alright, not persistant but the odd time, thought it was the cleats. A few more photos, the p3dal doesnt seem to inseet fully onto the spindle anymore either, like its too short. Will take it into the shop tmoro, get a new one

magicbastarder

are they meant to be threads on the pedal axle, at the bottom in the first photo? or is it just scoring?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120541976#Comment_120541976

No, in general it wouldn't, but I thought if the spindle was seized, then the pedal might be rotating on the threads, as such.

retalivity

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120542388#Comment_120542388

Think there's meant to be, very faint threads remain

magicbastarder

yeah, looks like it stripped the threads. how that happened is the next question...

cletus

https://youtu.be/Q9IZ1PbQDKk

Here's a video on servicing those pedals. If you could remove the 17mm nut on the pedal, you might have a clearer picture of the reason for the failure.

It's all academic, though, it doesn't look repairable

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120542460#Comment_120542460

I'd only degrease a chain to clean it if it's dirty. If you were using it every weekend in dry weather, it might not be too dirty, and a light top up with lube might be enough. And don't use a lot of oil, excess oil would only attract dirt.