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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,994 ✭✭✭Stone Deaf 4evr


    Yeah, I've no doubts on the actual physical task of building it, I'd be quite handy myself, and have access to all the tools that would be needed.

    I'm more concerned about potential nightmares like packages getting held up by customs / lost, arriving damaged etc.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,563 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    It really depends on whether you find the frame and components you will be happy with altogether or not. There is a huge cost saving if you like the frame and components and I will die on that hill.

    But....

    If you can get the frame separate and you can't buy it with the spec you want, then building it is the way to go, the cost of upgrading a bike off the shelf, if a complete overhaul, is not worth it.

    Hindsight being what it is, with the exception of one bike, I wish I'd went hunting for the frame separately but my racing bike from Rose came with everything I wanted for the cost of the components alone and a frame I love to this day.

    (Except the handlebars, but I am weird and don't like "normal" width handlebars. Rose would have fitted the ones I wanted at cost if they sold them at the time.)



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,109 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now


    Bought new mudguards last night so was fiddling around with the bike to make sure everything was compatible with them. I noticed that some how none of my Allen keys fit the bolt that goes into the brake callipers! Far as I know its a 5mm one that's needed and the only one I have is on my multi tool which is to small.

    Now I'm after looking online and there are a million and one different types and knowing my luck ill be the wrong one! haha.

    This is the bike I'm working with Cannondale CAAD Optimo 1 Road Bike - Road Bikes - Cycle SuperStore so you can see the clearance for the bolts.

    Any ideas what type I should go for? Be handy if I could get hold of it before or over the weekend.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater




  • Registered Users Posts: 13,109 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now


    Everything I have on hand at home I tried last night and the only one that fit was the 5mm on my multi tool but its to small in length as most multi tool pieces are its awkward trying to get grip and turn it for this job.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    Ah I got you. This is for the front i guess, on my race bike it is quite recessed all right. I have a T tool that takes bits that reach in. That said, a normal L shaped allen key should too



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,109 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,722 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    https://arbrownlow.ie/tee-handled-allen-key-with-ball.html

    I bought 3mm-6mm of those about 10 years ago and they have been fine.

    Ball end are grand when you are not applying too much force; something needs opening or closing you want to be square to it with standard allen head



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,109 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now


    Grand so ill go with those Benson ones I linked above cause I can just drop in on my break and get them. There's 9 different sizes should do me going forward!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,980 ✭✭✭G1032


    Looking for opinions on this please. Has this chainring got life left in it or is it time to bin it? I can see differences when comparing to an Ultegra one I have but wondering if this one pictured is worn enough to warrant replacement. Thanks.




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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,563 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Last pic is more worn than the top two but there is plenty of life left in it, the top two look almost new.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,980 ✭✭✭G1032


    Thanks CramCycle. Ya, I figured as much but just wanted to make sure because I can see a difference with my Ultegra one.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,694 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    it's remarkably clean!



  • Registered Users Posts: 934 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    IN case anyone runs into the same issues in future:

    1: 160mm

    2: it fitted without an adapter

    3: the system came filled and ready to install. However, the hose had to be cut to length and connected to the lever using the nut, olive and barb.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,439 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Please excuse the newbie questions. Never took on this kind of maintenance before so not 100% with the terms or how things go together too. Is this freehub cup salvageable? Had a lot of side to side movement and I thought I might get away with replacing the ball bearings but that plan went out the window when I took it apart today.

    This is the bike, hub is a Formula DC-22 and of course there's no info on it online.

    Need a new cone anyway, I presume it's easier to replace the whole axle. My understanding is the cup is part of the freehub so wouldn't come with an axle kit? Do I need a new freehub? How do you find a compatible axle? TIA...




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,563 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Registered Users Posts: 934 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Hope I’m wrong, but that could be uneconomical to repair/source spares for



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,439 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Thanks for the reply. I can find freehubs for < €20 + shipping but the axle seems way more awkward. Do you think a hub replacement or full wheel replacement would be more economical? I was talking to a guy at work recently and he said building a wheel from scratch is a pain, and I'm hesitant to replace the whole wheel when the damage is restricted to such a small number of components. I've bought a replacement cassette too and it would be very annoying to not be able to use it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 934 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    If you can’t find a replacement axle then a new wheel would be the way to go. No reason you couldn’t use your new cassette on a new wheel though.

    However, if you can get a compatible freehub for that price, I reckon if you go into a local bike shop, they would more than likely have an old wheel they could take the cone from. Or they could order in a cone for you maybe.

    Maybe someone in the forum here might even have an old cone that would suit. Trying to have a think myself but don’t think I have anything to suit. That’s provided you can remove the old cone and the seals are intact..

    Yeah it would be a shame to landfill a full wheel for the sake of some wear like that



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,439 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Swallowed my pride and took it to the local bike shop to see if they had parts, got it fixed no bother. Said he used a wire brush and drill to renew the inner cup, didn't realise you could do that. Presume that'll bed in quickly so I'll keep an eye on any play and tighten accordingly. Thanks for the advice!



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  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭DrumcDub1


    Any ideas what the little hole above the thru axle is for? One on either side, appear to be threaded but no screw in either? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything!



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,183 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Any ideas what the little hole above the thru axle is for? One on either side, appear to be threaded but no screw in either? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

    Mudguard mount? Though I'd expect a raised boss for that. Is there a matching one on the other side? It might just be drainage



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,220 ✭✭✭07Lapierre




  • Registered Users Posts: 17,895 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Would €270 for a new Shimano Claris front chainring and cassette, new chain and cables, 2 new Gatorskin tyres all fitted seem a bit steep or about right from the LBS on my commuter?

    The tyres definitely needed changing as they were starting to fall apart after literally thousands of km on them but they talked me into the rest while I was in there now Im having doubts.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,694 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    chap i know recently got charged this for a service; parts a level lower than claris.

    looks like it's about the same ballpark (this has a BB but not chainring, and swap buckles are derailleur for the tyres maybe?)

    gatorskins are currently €45 each on chain reaction cycles, for 25mm. you're lookin probably at a minimum of €100 for supply and fit of those alone.




  • Registered Users Posts: 17,895 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Yeah I suppose its okay when you think about it like that thanks, the parts that were replaced were 7 years old at this stage so they probably were about to fail, my maintenance regime was basically dump a load of Muc-Off wet lube on the chain whenever it started making noise or skipping. If this gives me another few years of zero hassle commuting it will be worth it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,617 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    I would say it’s probably around the right ballpark, maybe a little high.

    30 quid for the chain ring, 30 quid for the chain, 30 quid for the cassette, 40 quid for cables, 100 quid for the tyres fitted.

    If you were to buy yourself online you might have been able to get the chain ring, chain and cassette for 70ish, then 90 for the tyres and 25 quid for a cable kit



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,213 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Would you pay €30 for a chain? My local shop sold me 11 speed SRAM chains for €18.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,617 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Most of the Shimano hyper glide chains run around that price, the HG71 that comes stock with Claris is that price.

    Even Shimano 11 speed chains tend to run a fair bit more expensive than the sram stuff, a 105 chain will run you about 30-40 quid



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,183 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Halfords have SRAM 8 speed chains for €12.65, and Clarks with a quick link for about €16 (I've used Clarks cables and other bits and bobs and find them grand). Since it's for a commuter, the extra few milliseconds in shift efficiency from having everything Hyperglide won't stack up



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