the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Lord Nikon

I have a Trek 1.1 roadbike, and it’s been in the shed for quite a while. While the front brakes work well, the rear brakes(Alloy dual-pivot), are seized. They go in towards the rim, but don’t retract out when brake lever is released. It is worth taking them off and giving them a good clean, or should I just replace them?

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120685945#Comment_120685945

Pop them off, remove the brake pads, and soak the spring in gt85 or wd40 etc, they might need replacing but it’s no harm trying first to see if you can get that spring back to life

Seth Brundle

Just got my bike back from my LBS (needed a new fork which took a few months to obtain). Anyhow, they changed the chain, cassette and rear derailleur (they felt they neded doingbut let's not go there!) and now I find that my chain is skipping and trying to come off under load e.g. when setting off. Is the chain ring gone? There wasn't a peep out of it before I left it in if that makes a difference but looking at it, it looks quite different to the small ring...

Plastik

Very worn.

magicbastarder

hmm, so the bike shop decided to replace your RD (without consulting you, by the way you phrased it?), your chain and cassette, and missed the wear on the chainring? that's attention to detail right there.

Seth Brundle

Thanks both 👍

Seth Brundle

Went to another LBS and now have a new chain ring on and no more slipping under load. Bike ready for forthcoming holliers!

Squidgy Black

Fairly poor for them to do all that work and not even bring it on a test spin to see how everything is, especially with replacing something like a fork. But that’s some impressive wear on the chainring I must say bravo

Seth Brundle

I know. I was also told that they checked the brakes but seemed to miss the front right brake block rubbing against the tyre with an audible sound (which definitley wasn't happening when I left it in). Seriously unimpressed!

DaveyDave

From the day I got my MTB (after bedding in the pads) I've needed a fair bit of lever pull before they would engage. I can't really do 1 finger braking and I don't have the fine modulation I'm used to from my last bike 10 years ago. Both Deore brakes.

Is there an adjustment that can be made or is there just not enough fluid in the system?

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120691654#Comment_120691654

They more than likely need bleeding

De Bhál

Have this tyre a good while waiting to be used and put it on this morning. I see a very high recommended air pressure of 8 to 10 bar, which is 120 to 140psi. About 40 more than normal for me

I looked up the tyre on the web and the blurb says "The Open tubular clincher version of the Corsa SR tyre"

I assume the high pressure is when used as a tubular, and I'm also assuming tubes can be used at normal pressures

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120691654#Comment_120691654

If they are hydraulic then use a hairband/rubberband to hold the lever in the clamped position overnight and then try. For whatever reason it often sorts out this issue rather than bleeding but it may return. I have heard explanations as to why it works but they all sound a bit BS, I think it is just the pistons act as if the pads are more worn than they are.

iwillhtfu

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120693422#Comment_120693422

As you mention it's only a recommendation. I wouldn't run pressures that high particularly on a carbon clincher. I think those pressures recommendations were before they actually started doing some research and found lower pressures can prove to be better. It'll run fine at 80-100psi

Thargor

Do you think storing a MTB like this on a stand will do any long term harm? Im going to convert it into an ebike over Winter but leaving it like this makes it easy to park my roadbike underneath in the corner of my project room, both bikes take up half the space this way and it looks way tidier:

iwillhtfu

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120705719#Comment_120705719

No harm at all.

If you're planning on leaving it idle I'd put it in the small front ring though, it'll take the tension off of the rear mech spring.

gn3dr

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120685945#Comment_120685945

I'd say that's more likely to be your cable seized rather than the caliper.

Thargor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120706561#Comment_120706561

Great tip thanks.

magicbastarder

i haven't stuck the bike up on the stand yet to diagnose it, but have had an unusual issue in the last couple of weeks. after a couple of minutes pedalling, the drivetrain starts to sound graunchy - but it's not the sound of a badly indexed RD, sounds more akin to possibly chain rub against the FD. and the temporary solution is to shift up and back (either on the front *or* the back) and it settles and goes away for a couple of minutes; so it's odd. first thing i'll check for is chain wear, but i suspect the cables are due for replacement (even though i'm not sure that could explain it).

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120711868#Comment_120711868

It could be the cable, if it's sticking. Adding tension is causing the derailleur to move, but when you shift back down, it's not shifting fully?

Mundo7976

A sticky link perhaps

magicbastarder

yeah, cables and the chain were going to be my first port of call. i want to check the quick link to make sure it's secure!

magicbastarder

not the chain - that's reasonably fresh, and it took it off and the BB is spinning nicely. but check this sound out; garunchy when pedalling

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIli7Aleqs0

and then i discovered this; it's the freehub body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO7nZdSi44s

probably junk, but i'm off to google if it can be rescued.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715471#Comment_120715471

You might as well strip it down and have a look anyway. If it's salvageable you'll see, and if not, you'll need another anyway

magicbastarder

Yep, that was the plan, and it certainly looks like the bearings are shot.

jethrothe2nd

20230614_192949.jpg

20230614_193712.jpg

Cleaning my bike this evening and noticed this on my Trek Emonda. I'm wondering if I have had the quick release too tight and stressed it. How bad is this likely to be?

magicbastarder

That shouldn't be from a tight quick release. How old is the bike?

jethrothe2nd

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715612#Comment_120715612

It's a 2018 Emonda SL5 which I bought from new. It's seen a fair few miles, but been looked after. I also would have been surprised if it was from a tight quick release but it's the only thing that I could really think of.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715654#Comment_120715654

Is it just some bubbly paint due to the elements and grit from the road?

3 options here I reckon:

1 - pretend you never saw it

2 - pick away at the paint and see what lurks beneath

3 - take it to a carbon expert for a professional check

jethrothe2nd

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715822#Comment_120715822

I'm hopeful it is just bubbly paint and nothing structural, but I think for my own peace of mind I'll bring it to the bike shop and ask them to have a look.