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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • #5732
    Seth Brundle
    Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 43,801 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Went to another LBS and now have a new chain ring on and no more slipping under load. Bike ready for forthcoming holliers!



  • #5733
    Squidgy Black
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,745 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Fairly poor for them to do all that work and not even bring it on a test spin to see how everything is, especially with replacing something like a fork. But that’s some impressive wear on the chainring I must say bravo



  • #5734
    Seth Brundle
    Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 43,801 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    I know. I was also told that they checked the brakes but seemed to miss the front right brake block rubbing against the tyre with an audible sound (which definitley wasn't happening when I left it in). Seriously unimpressed!



  • #5735
    DaveyDave
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,521 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    From the day I got my MTB (after bedding in the pads) I've needed a fair bit of lever pull before they would engage. I can't really do 1 finger braking and I don't have the fine modulation I'm used to from my last bike 10 years ago. Both Deore brakes.

    Is there an adjustment that can be made or is there just not enough fluid in the system?



  • #5736
    Squidgy Black
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,745 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120691654#Comment_120691654

    They more than likely need bleeding



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  • #5737
    De Bhál
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,101 ✭✭✭De Bhál


    image.png

    Have this tyre a good while waiting to be used and put it on this morning. I see a very high recommended air pressure of 8 to 10 bar, which is 120 to 140psi. About 40 more than normal for me

    I looked up the tyre on the web and the blurb says "The Open tubular clincher version of the Corsa SR tyre"

    I assume the high pressure is when used as a tubular, and I'm also assuming tubes can be used at normal pressures



  • #5738
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,148 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120691654#Comment_120691654

    If they are hydraulic then use a hairband/rubberband to hold the lever in the clamped position overnight and then try. For whatever reason it often sorts out this issue rather than bleeding but it may return. I have heard explanations as to why it works but they all sound a bit BS, I think it is just the pistons act as if the pads are more worn than they are.



  • #5739
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,360 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120693422#Comment_120693422

    As you mention it's only a recommendation. I wouldn't run pressures that high particularly on a carbon clincher. I think those pressures recommendations were before they actually started doing some research and found lower pressures can prove to be better. It'll run fine at 80-100psi



  • #5740
    Thargor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,248 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Do you think storing a MTB like this on a stand will do any long term harm? Im going to convert it into an ebike over Winter but leaving it like this makes it easy to park my roadbike underneath in the corner of my project room, both bikes take up half the space this way and it looks way tidier:

    oBJWv24.jpg


    Post edited by Thargor on


  • #5741
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,360 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120705719#Comment_120705719

    No harm at all.

    If you're planning on leaving it idle I'd put it in the small front ring though, it'll take the tension off of the rear mech spring.



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  • #5742
    gn3dr
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 965 ✭✭✭gn3dr


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120685945#Comment_120685945

    I'd say that's more likely to be your cable seized rather than the caliper.



  • #5743
    Thargor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,248 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120706561#Comment_120706561

    Great tip thanks.



  • #5744
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i haven't stuck the bike up on the stand yet to diagnose it, but have had an unusual issue in the last couple of weeks. after a couple of minutes pedalling, the drivetrain starts to sound graunchy - but it's not the sound of a badly indexed RD, sounds more akin to possibly chain rub against the FD. and the temporary solution is to shift up and back (either on the front *or* the back) and it settles and goes away for a couple of minutes; so it's odd. first thing i'll check for is chain wear, but i suspect the cables are due for replacement (even though i'm not sure that could explain it).



  • #5745
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,523 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120711868#Comment_120711868


    It could be the cable, if it's sticking. Adding tension is causing the derailleur to move, but when you shift back down, it's not shifting fully?



  • #5746
    Mundo7976
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,158 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    A sticky link perhaps



  • #5747
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    yeah, cables and the chain were going to be my first port of call. i want to check the quick link to make sure it's secure!



  • #5748
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not the chain - that's reasonably fresh, and it took it off and the BB is spinning nicely. but check this sound out; garunchy when pedalling

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIli7Aleqs0

    and then i discovered this; it's the freehub body.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO7nZdSi44s

    probably junk, but i'm off to google if it can be rescued.



  • #5749
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,523 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715471#Comment_120715471

    You might as well strip it down and have a look anyway. If it's salvageable you'll see, and if not, you'll need another anyway



  • #5750
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Yep, that was the plan, and it certainly looks like the bearings are shot.



  • #5751
    jethrothe2nd
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 612 ✭✭✭jethrothe2nd


    20230614_192949.jpg
    20230614_193712.jpg

    Cleaning my bike this evening and noticed this on my Trek Emonda. I'm wondering if I have had the quick release too tight and stressed it. How bad is this likely to be?



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  • #5752
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    That shouldn't be from a tight quick release. How old is the bike?



  • #5753
    jethrothe2nd
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 612 ✭✭✭jethrothe2nd


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715612#Comment_120715612

    It's a 2018 Emonda SL5 which I bought from new. It's seen a fair few miles, but been looked after. I also would have been surprised if it was from a tight quick release but it's the only thing that I could really think of.



  • #5754
    nicksnikita
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,072 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715654#Comment_120715654

    Is it just some bubbly paint due to the elements and grit from the road?

    3 options here I reckon:

    1 - pretend you never saw it

    2 - pick away at the paint and see what lurks beneath

    3 - take it to a carbon expert for a professional check



  • #5755
    jethrothe2nd
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 612 ✭✭✭jethrothe2nd


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715822#Comment_120715822

    I'm hopeful it is just bubbly paint and nothing structural, but I think for my own peace of mind I'll bring it to the bike shop and ask them to have a look.



  • #5756
    Plastik
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,008 ✭✭✭Plastik


    I'd say most bike shops (i) Will not know, (ii) Will not want to know, and (iii) Will certainly not give you the slightest reassurance that they will stand over their opinion without sending it off to Trek and/or picking all the paint off to see what lies beneath - which you can do yourself.



  • #5757
    jethrothe2nd
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 612 ✭✭✭jethrothe2nd


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715949#Comment_120715949

    Yes, on reflection l'd say you are dead right and really I just need to i to make a decision on one of the 3 options from nicksnikita



  • #5758
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120715482#Comment_120715482

    was around in humphries - i took the middle of the three options (buy bearings & fit myself/get them to supply and fit/new freehub body).

    €45 to supply and fit bearings vs €80 to €85 for a new freehub body.



  • #5759
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,523 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120717356#Comment_120717356

    A successful outcome



  • #5760
    DaveyDave
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,521 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Are freehub bodies difficult to replace/repair? The one on my MTB has completely stopped engaging now so I can't pedal under load, bike shop is having a hard time sourcing one as the manufacturer hasn't told them what freehub body part number it is as they have to source one themselves.

    Doing some digging I found the OEM wheel technical documents and it's just a Deore hub. A few random websites sell the freehub body but it's double the price of the hub. I'm guessing this is a distributor only part whereas the hub is retail.

    Is it difficult to take the freehub body off the new hub and swap it onto the old wheel or am I going to be messing around with seals and bearings also?



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  • #5761
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,807 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    to take my freehub body off (after removing the cassette) just required a 17mm spanner and 5mm allen key. its bearings were held within the freehub itself.



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