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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Should be do-able, even without a workstand.

    After removing the chain (using a splitter to break it, or a pliers to open the quicklink), you’ll need an Allen key to remove the rd.

    If the chain is not worn out and you plan to reinstall it, make sure you order the same length rd as the one you’re taking off.

    You'll also need to index the gears once you install the new rd. That’s usually done using a philips head screwdriver, or on more modern rds, an Allen key. Again, loads of YouTube videos on this topic.



  • Registered Users Posts: 502 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Has anybody been to doctor/dermatologist for cycling related undercarriage issues?

    I seem to constantly suffer from irritation/chafing in the same spot no matter what shorts/saddle/cream combination I use. Even after relatively short spins. And I seem to have the tiniest lump there, like the size of a pin head which doesn't seem to go away.

    I'm wondering if a doctor/dermatologist could prescribe something or if a scalpel would need to be applied!

    Apologies for the disturbing turn of conversation but it is really impacting my ability to just go out and cycle.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,512 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    If theres a bump there, go to a doctor, it's probably something simple that can be taken off in the GP surgery but not worth waiting around. No one here can tell you anything with the description of "a bump" and medical advice is banned anyway.



  • Registered Users Posts: 502 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Thanks Cram. Wasn't so much the medical advice I was looking for, more if anybody else had had to go a similar route in looking for medical intervention. Everything you read online just points to the obvious changes to saddle/shorts/chamois and I half fear I'm turning myself into a hypochondriac!



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,512 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Not at all, those are the simple things to try first but usually only address friction only things, which is what this might be. I had to remove a golf ball size infection from the gooch area before from cycling, it was, unpleasant, I put more detailed descriptions in another thread 10 years ago. A bump could be anything from just a feature of you, or a persistent pimple, to a small benign growth, to a small localised infection that isn't spreading or worse. As someone who has had a father with random bumps removed because he did get checked (and has had no other follow up issues), it is probably absolutely nothing, and a few minutes in the GP surgery will either sort it out or teach you that you are going to live with it, but just in case, get it looked at. Just go and make an appointment though. Like I said, most likely a few minutes, or a reappointment to get it checked throughly adn that most likely will be that.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 502 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Like I said, the lump is only miniscule so I think it is just a remnant of a previous saddle sore/friction which hasn't quite healed up fully and so constantly gets annoyed again when I jump back on the bike. So I'll take your advice and just book the appointment and hopefully get it put to bed.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,648 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Had a small bump once that ruptured internally & became quite a serious situation so best advice is to get it checked by a GP. A small day procedure will solve the bump issue.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,918 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Anyone know of a bodge to remove a campag cassette when you have nothin but Shimano lockring tools.


    I'm just sticking Shimano compatible wheels onto the campag bike because the hubs are prettier and skewers match perfectly so ..



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,648 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Another looking for a bodge / hack.


    My saddle won’t clamp fully on my Merida so any suggestions on how to add size to the saddle rails to ensure it stays out?

    Currently just added some thick tape which worked but not sure that’s a perma fix.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,512 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,648 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Anti grip tape might be better then thick double side tape maybe.

    Tube will be option 2 if it fails to hold on Sunday.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,965 ✭✭✭Plastik


    If they're both 11 speed you don't need to change out the cassette. There's such little difference in cog spacing that it'll make no discernible difference to shifting.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,918 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I want to remove the campag cassette as I'm getting rid of the wheels. I've offered them with and without cassette. Now just using a Shimano cassette on other wheels



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    On disc brake road bikes, do other people leave the thru axle handle in place on the wheel or do they take it off and carry it? I'd be afraid that it would come lose on a ride




  • Registered Users Posts: 16,648 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Normally leave mine off though if you forget a multi tool you are in trouble if needed a tube change.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,884 ✭✭✭cletus


    Mine stays in the car. I haven't used it, other than letting my mate use it to take off his front wheel to get it in the boot.

    I've a multi tool on the bike, and a proper set of hex keys in the shed



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    I must be getting old cos I hadn't realised that I can just use my multi tool

    Mind you, the handle thing feels better to use than my little multi tool



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,790 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    mine didn't even come with a handle, I've just used an allen key any time I've had to take a wheel off (haven't had a puncture yet fortunately but I do have a multitool in my kit).



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,918 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Looking at a Deore groupset for my tourer/commuter/shopper. Specifically the trekking t6000. Rear Derailleur is fine, Chainset and BB fine, Have bar end shifters.I'm flummoxed by the front derailleur.


    Don't know if I need top swing or down swing and even at that there are different options


    https://www.bike24.com/p2262022.html?sku=919214



  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭vintcerf


    Recently replaced disc rotors on a set of wheels but noticed slight rubbing. turns out i bought mtb ones and they are 2.0mm instead of 1.8mm. I switched wheels to those that have 1.8mm rotors and no rubbing. Is it worth replacing the rotors or can I just rub down the pads a bit?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,608 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    I’d replace the rotors tbh unless they were an expensive set, the extra hassle you’ll have trying to centre them all the time wouldn’t be worth it



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,505 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i wouldn't say centering them would be an issue, it's whether the calipers are designed to take discs that wide?

    should be able to look up the specs of the caliper, maybe, to find out? what are they?



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,608 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Wider discs, less space for them to not rub no? Be a nightmare working with a smaller tolerance



  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭vintcerf


    rotors weren't too bad, 40 quid. Calipers are sram rival hydraulic. trying to find the spec sheet online now. insane how much of a difference 2mm can make 😀



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,505 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    It was specifically centering them that I was referring to - but they might still be too wide



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    Not really maintenance...


    Wonder if someone can explain something to me that I can't figure out...

    Have a bike with "carry anything" mounts (I think they are called) on the front forks, 3 bolts that you can buy a range of attachments /compatible luggage for etc...


    The bolts /holes are angled back at a severe angle which means, while I can attach a mount, if I put anything in the mount it is into the spokes.


    I'm just curious what I'm missing here from a design perspective. Surely the bolts /holes on the fork need to be at a right angle to the fork to allow for luggage etc? Why are they angled back?!


    Have googled a bit but not finding.

    Thanks in advance for for any insight.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Another bottom bracket question.


    I purchased the below this week to swap Bottom brackets as my cube nuroad’s crankset was rocking in a way it shouldn’t. I pulled the cranks off and the BB cup ends just fell off.


    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/radon-pro-assembly-and-disassembly-tool-set-for-press-fit-bottom-brackets


    im insert first from the drive side to hammer out that side from the non drive if that makes sense but the tool just flies out. I’m pushing it through till a click a few mm beyong the bearings which I think is right and the. It’s not budging till the prongs collapse and the tool flies out.


    any advice? Am I doing it wrong?

    Post edited by 68 lost souls on


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,512 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Push it through as you describe until the fins are well past the BB lip, then push back, it will get caught and then smash the end poking out with a rubber hammer, might take a few attempts and it will pop out. Park tools will undoubtedly have a video.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Thanks Cram, just seems to not be budging and then the tool itself flies back out without bringing the bottom bracket with it. Looks like the bottom bracket is cracked internally too.



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  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 10,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jim2007


    Old timer here [based in Switzerland].... my only bike for the last 30+ years is a Dawes Super Galaxy that I have done all the maintenance on over the years. At this stage my days of climbing alpine passes are well and truly over due to health [arthritis in both ankles] and I have decide to upgrade to a newer bike. So far I have held off on pulling the trigger because I'm concerned about what it takes to do the maintenance, in particular I have no knowledge of the following components which are listed in the advertising:

    • Brake System: Shimano BR-MT200, Hydr. Disc Brake (160/160)
    • Shifters: Shimano Alfine SL-S503
    • Crankset: Gates S150 CDN, 46T, 170mm, BB Thun Zumba
    • Sprocket: Gates Rear Sprocket CDN, 22T
    • Drive Belt: Gates CDN, 120T

    Any insights on what is involved? New tools that might be needed etc... I don't want to end up with something that I have to take to the bike shop more than once every couple of years.



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