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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,275 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now


    Everything I have on hand at home I tried last night and the only one that fit was the 5mm on my multi tool but its to small in length as most multi tool pieces are its awkward trying to get grip and turn it for this job.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,176 ✭✭✭Idleater


    Ah I got you. This is for the front i guess, on my race bike it is quite recessed all right. I have a T tool that takes bits that reach in. That said, a normal L shaped allen key should too



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,275 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,345 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    https://arbrownlow.ie/tee-handled-allen-key-with-ball.html

    I bought 3mm-6mm of those about 10 years ago and they have been fine.

    Ball end are grand when you are not applying too much force; something needs opening or closing you want to be square to it with standard allen head



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,275 ✭✭✭✭How Soon Is Now


    Grand so ill go with those Benson ones I linked above cause I can just drop in on my break and get them. There's 9 different sizes should do me going forward!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,501 ✭✭✭G1032


    Looking for opinions on this please. Has this chainring got life left in it or is it time to bin it? I can see differences when comparing to an Ultegra one I have but wondering if this one pictured is worn enough to warrant replacement. Thanks.

    IMG20230415170736.jpg IMG20230415170752.jpg IMG20230415170800.jpg




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,181 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Last pic is more worn than the top two but there is plenty of life left in it, the top two look almost new.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,501 ✭✭✭G1032


    Thanks CramCycle. Ya, I figured as much but just wanted to make sure because I can see a difference with my Ultegra one.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,934 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    it's remarkably clean!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    IN case anyone runs into the same issues in future:

    1: 160mm

    2: it fitted without an adapter

    3: the system came filled and ready to install. However, the hose had to be cut to length and connected to the lever using the nut, olive and barb.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,543 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Please excuse the newbie questions. Never took on this kind of maintenance before so not 100% with the terms or how things go together too. Is this freehub cup salvageable? Had a lot of side to side movement and I thought I might get away with replacing the ball bearings but that plan went out the window when I took it apart today.

    This is the bike, hub is a Formula DC-22 and of course there's no info on it online.

    20230416_183212.jpg 20230416_182550.jpg

    Need a new cone anyway, I presume it's easier to replace the whole axle. My understanding is the cup is part of the freehub so wouldn't come with an axle kit? Do I need a new freehub? How do you find a compatible axle? TIA...

    20230416_190755.jpg




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,181 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Hope I’m wrong, but that could be uneconomical to repair/source spares for



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,543 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Thanks for the reply. I can find freehubs for < €20 + shipping but the axle seems way more awkward. Do you think a hub replacement or full wheel replacement would be more economical? I was talking to a guy at work recently and he said building a wheel from scratch is a pain, and I'm hesitant to replace the whole wheel when the damage is restricted to such a small number of components. I've bought a replacement cassette too and it would be very annoying to not be able to use it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    If you can’t find a replacement axle then a new wheel would be the way to go. No reason you couldn’t use your new cassette on a new wheel though.

    However, if you can get a compatible freehub for that price, I reckon if you go into a local bike shop, they would more than likely have an old wheel they could take the cone from. Or they could order in a cone for you maybe.

    Maybe someone in the forum here might even have an old cone that would suit. Trying to have a think myself but don’t think I have anything to suit. That’s provided you can remove the old cone and the seals are intact..

    Yeah it would be a shame to landfill a full wheel for the sake of some wear like that



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,543 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Swallowed my pride and took it to the local bike shop to see if they had parts, got it fixed no bother. Said he used a wire brush and drill to renew the inner cup, didn't realise you could do that. Presume that'll bed in quickly so I'll keep an eye on any play and tighten accordingly. Thanks for the advice!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭DrumcDub1


    IMG-20230418-WA0051.jpg

    Any ideas what the little hole above the thru axle is for? One on either side, appear to be threaded but no screw in either? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,663 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Any ideas what the little hole above the thru axle is for? One on either side, appear to be threaded but no screw in either? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

    Mudguard mount? Though I'd expect a raised boss for that. Is there a matching one on the other side? It might just be drainage



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,434 ✭✭✭07Lapierre




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,254 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Would €270 for a new Shimano Claris front chainring and cassette, new chain and cables, 2 new Gatorskin tyres all fitted seem a bit steep or about right from the LBS on my commuter?

    The tyres definitely needed changing as they were starting to fall apart after literally thousands of km on them but they talked me into the rest while I was in there now Im having doubts.



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,934 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    chap i know recently got charged this for a service; parts a level lower than claris.

    looks like it's about the same ballpark (this has a BB but not chainring, and swap buckles are derailleur for the tyres maybe?)

    gatorskins are currently €45 each on chain reaction cycles, for 25mm. you're lookin probably at a minimum of €100 for supply and fit of those alone.

    77088987-3b61-47d2-a107-13b786f17a37.JPG




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,254 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Yeah I suppose its okay when you think about it like that thanks, the parts that were replaced were 7 years old at this stage so they probably were about to fail, my maintenance regime was basically dump a load of Muc-Off wet lube on the chain whenever it started making noise or skipping. If this gives me another few years of zero hassle commuting it will be worth it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,763 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    I would say it’s probably around the right ballpark, maybe a little high.

    30 quid for the chain ring, 30 quid for the chain, 30 quid for the cassette, 40 quid for cables, 100 quid for the tyres fitted.

    If you were to buy yourself online you might have been able to get the chain ring, chain and cassette for 70ish, then 90 for the tyres and 25 quid for a cable kit



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,544 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Would you pay €30 for a chain? My local shop sold me 11 speed SRAM chains for €18.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,763 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Most of the Shimano hyper glide chains run around that price, the HG71 that comes stock with Claris is that price.

    Even Shimano 11 speed chains tend to run a fair bit more expensive than the sram stuff, a 105 chain will run you about 30-40 quid



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,663 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Halfords have SRAM 8 speed chains for €12.65, and Clarks with a quick link for about €16 (I've used Clarks cables and other bits and bobs and find them grand). Since it's for a commuter, the extra few milliseconds in shift efficiency from having everything Hyperglide won't stack up



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 CuriousCat!


    Hi all,


    I've a trek 7.2 hybrid. I've just got it serviced and received a quote to the tune €240, I need a rear wheel replacement, both tyres, 2 brake cables, 4 brake pads, pedals and the €40 service fee.


    Does this sound about right or is it somewhat on the overpriced end of things? Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Sounds expensive in proportion to the value of the bike but I guess that’s about the size of it and there’s no getting away from it if those parts are required



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,181 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Chainring 50euro, Cassette 40euro, chain 20euro, tyres 100euro, so that's €210 without labour, accounting for convenience or holding stock. Your also comparing it to online shops like CRC who can often sell cheaper than the Irish Distributors. Maybe 20 minutes work but for a decent mechanic, 10 minutes but also depends on how good a condition your bike was in, it could be a lot longer if there are any issues. Not to mention the once over they probably gave as part of a typical service.

    Long story short, you got a very reasonable price in the current economy, in my opinion.



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,181 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Without any info on the wheel or tyres it is impossible to say but the cheapest for a half usable new rear wheel might be 80euro, tyres, lets say gatorskins as there is a price in the posts before yours of 90euro, pedals (cheap, flat, bargain basement pair) 15euro and 15euro for the cables and brake pads. An even 200 for going cheap on parts and the 40euro service charge.

    I do think cyclists in Ireland were so well serviced by local mechanics doing things at effectively cost price that they don't realise what they would have been charged in any other industry.



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