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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭Raymzor


    Does this chain line look right? Is the derailleur bent? How do I fix it if it is offline?




  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 40,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Is something happening when you pedal (e.g. chain slipping)? It does look like the lower jockey wheel is not aligned but which front ring is the chain on?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭Raymzor


    Thanks Seth. The chain is on. The way the photo is taken You can’t see the upper chain line as the lower chain line is covering it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭Raymzor


    It’s a long cage derailleur. There is a fair amount of play/ wobble on the jockey wheels also.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,184 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    given that you seem to be roughly square on to the smaller sprockets on the cassette, in terms of the angle the shot is taken from, that seems to be quite a deviation in the line between the guide wheel and tension wheel on your RD.



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    No way to know for certain from this photo, you either need multiple photos in various gears or a video rolling through them. Are there issues such as chain drop?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,184 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    the first thing i'd be checking, would be to shift up to the lowest gear (i.e. largest sprocket) on the rear, to confirm the RD is not in danger of fouling in the spokes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Question for Tacx Flux users:

    My belt is done for and I want to replace it, I'm wondering if anyone else has replaced there and if they know the dimensions (eg. 4PK820) assuming tacx didn't commission their own piece and use an off the shelf car auxiliary belt?

    I see "premium" replacements online which are 3x the price of a Gates/Continental belt and probably no better.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    So as a Christmas present I got a nice set of carbon aero handlebars. Today was the day I decided to fit them. I encountered a problem when I realised I would need to cut the olive off as the bolt to secure the brake hose would not fit through the bars. I do not have the requisite tools to attach a new olive etc.


    So I brought the bike down to the local shop to see if they could cut the lines and attach some new olives for me. Now he has quoted me €10 for the olives which is fine. But he is saying I will need 2 brake bleeds and that is €60. Now that seems pretty steep to me? Am I wrong? I also said I have a bleed kit at home and can look after that part myself but he went on to say that without bleeding they couldn't check if there was a leak etc after fitting the olives. Am I being taken for a ride here?

    And does anybody in South Dublin / North Wicklow have the tools/parts to cut a hose and secure a new olive and insert I could borrow?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,276 ✭✭✭JMcL


    In the current climate, 60 quid doesn't seem excessive when you take into account labour, materials etc Does that include the olives or on top of it?

    (as a side, I now know what an olive is which was something I'd never heard of before!)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Installation of olives was another €10 so €70 in total. I had actually made the decision to call back down and take the bike home as I didn’t want to pay for the bleed. But I was too late as they’d already done the work.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,059 ✭✭✭kirving


    60 quid is excessive IMO. With a workstand and a large syringe, I have it done much faster than I'd adjust V-brakes of old, probably 15 minutes max. Yes those tools and workshop cost money, but that's doctor rates for a basic job.

    Now maybe if they took out the pads, checked the piston seals for leaks cleaned off any excess oils, and cleaned and trued the discs, I'd be more forgiving but that's a big maybe in my experience.

    €10 for olives is pushing it too. I get they need to make a markup, but the parts (if Shimano) were €2.40.

    €50 all in would have been about right in my mind.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,109 ✭✭✭RikkFlair


    Wondering if anyone recognises these bike symptoms before I go straight to the mechanic..out for a quick spin this morning and noticed a slight clicking/knocking sound after a few km but couldn't figure out its origin, sounded like a pebbled lodged somewhere but got off and spun both wheels and pedals and nothing came loose nor could I see anything. The noise persisted whether pedalling or freewheeling and didnt stop til I got home. Ball bearings need replacing somewhere?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Did the clicking increase and decrease in frequency in line with your increase and decrease in speed? If so, I'd imagine you're looking at the wheels to begin with



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,109 ✭✭✭RikkFlair


    Not that I can remember but yeah seems a rear wheel issue, just went out to shed and got it pedalling and can hear the clicking, at least I've narrowed it down, cheers.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Check is a wire from the rear derailleur touching the spokes?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,517 ✭✭✭hesker


    Most recent for me was wheel skewer too tight.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,109 ✭✭✭RikkFlair


    No, definitely sound coming from inside rear wheel hub, no loose spokes or anything.... sounds like a small stone popping around. I'll remove the skewer later and clean it up, I guess I'll have to remove the cassette to inspect the ball bearings? I don't see anything to unscrew on the opposite side.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,517 ✭✭✭hesker


    As a first step just untighten the skewer and then retighten lightly. Check if sound is gone.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,109 ✭✭✭RikkFlair


    Seems to have worked, thanks! Although only tested it out by cycling a half mile, will see later on a full ride if issue persists, cheers.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    Would a 2x10 speed front derailleur be OK to pair with an 11speed shimano105 set up?

    Or would anyone know of a cheapo derailleur either braze on or with a 34.9mm clamp?

    Cheers.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,517 ✭✭✭hesker


    Skewer needs to be only tight enough that the wheel doesn’t slip when you stand on the pedals to put the power down.

    Too tight and you end up with too much side load on the bearings which can grind.

    So would be a good idea to check your wheel doesn’t slip too. Hopefully you can find a balance point.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 donymuc


    Have some clunking occuring on my single speed. Thought it might be hub and have those replaced as they were old. It's still there when I stand up and out pressure on pedals, mostly from non drive side on downward stroke. BB has no play at all, the cranks are about a year old. I took the cranks off today and on the non drive side there is rust/markings on the spindle and on the inside of the crank hole. Pics below. I've out some grease on spindle and on crank bolt and refitted. Clunking is not as bad but still there for sure. Would anyone have anything jump out of them that this might most likely be?




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Is it just a sound, or can you feel it?

    Sometimes bearings need to be loaded to feel wear, so just spinning the bb under no load might not show anything



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 donymuc


    There is definitely a feel to it, a little step or clunk vibration, mostly when I'm off the saddle and giving it some sideways action. Or when I'm just start off so putting a good bit of torque. I'll probly order a bb and give that a go. Shame cause with the new hubs it's delightfully smooth other then this issue



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,276 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I did a big and long overdue service on the Croix de Fer over the weekend, but ran into issues with sizing the chain.

    I fitted a new 11-36 cassette, the old one having been 11-32, as I want to make the bike a bit more amenable to going uphill, trails etc. (ultimate plan is to downsize the chainring, but that doesn't need replaced yet so one step at a time). The RD is a Shimano RD R350 10 speed (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano/RD-R350-10-SS.html) - a non-series Tiagra level part which has a listed max of 34t, but I'm relying on Shimano's reputation for being conservative. The chainrings are 48/34.

    I couldn't use the old chain to size it since the the cassette was different, so I used the big-big method of wrapping the new chain around the big ring and big sprocket then adding 2 links. This however has ended up way too short. Here's the chain on the big ring and the 28t. It won't shift onto the 32t - which it obviously did before - never mind the 36t:

    For the sake of comparison, here's small-small:

    I'm assuming the issue is I fecked up sizing the chain (it was at the end of a long day and I was knackered - never a good state for something going right!), so is there a better chain sizing method I can use? Also question from the cheapskate in me, can I just splice a bit into the chain using a couple of quick links, or would that be inviting disaster?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,660 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    Anyone any experience of working with aluminium mudguards? I've used steel or plastic in the past.


    Just wondering can I bend them in spots with a pliers or could they shatter / crack? In which case I could carefully saw bits instead i suppose...


    Thanks. They are kenisis fend off, if of any relevance.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,826 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    RD looks to be done with as there is too much play even with all usual bolts tightened.

    Ive watched a video or two and it looks okay to try at home replacing it so fingers crossed on Monday.

    I just need to get 4 hours from it tomorrow 🤞.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 956 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Should be do-able, even without a workstand.

    After removing the chain (using a splitter to break it, or a pliers to open the quicklink), you’ll need an Allen key to remove the rd.

    If the chain is not worn out and you plan to reinstall it, make sure you order the same length rd as the one you’re taking off.

    You'll also need to index the gears once you install the new rd. That’s usually done using a philips head screwdriver, or on more modern rds, an Allen key. Again, loads of YouTube videos on this topic.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Has anybody been to doctor/dermatologist for cycling related undercarriage issues?

    I seem to constantly suffer from irritation/chafing in the same spot no matter what shorts/saddle/cream combination I use. Even after relatively short spins. And I seem to have the tiniest lump there, like the size of a pin head which doesn't seem to go away.

    I'm wondering if a doctor/dermatologist could prescribe something or if a scalpel would need to be applied!

    Apologies for the disturbing turn of conversation but it is really impacting my ability to just go out and cycle.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    If theres a bump there, go to a doctor, it's probably something simple that can be taken off in the GP surgery but not worth waiting around. No one here can tell you anything with the description of "a bump" and medical advice is banned anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Thanks Cram. Wasn't so much the medical advice I was looking for, more if anybody else had had to go a similar route in looking for medical intervention. Everything you read online just points to the obvious changes to saddle/shorts/chamois and I half fear I'm turning myself into a hypochondriac!



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Not at all, those are the simple things to try first but usually only address friction only things, which is what this might be. I had to remove a golf ball size infection from the gooch area before from cycling, it was, unpleasant, I put more detailed descriptions in another thread 10 years ago. A bump could be anything from just a feature of you, or a persistent pimple, to a small benign growth, to a small localised infection that isn't spreading or worse. As someone who has had a father with random bumps removed because he did get checked (and has had no other follow up issues), it is probably absolutely nothing, and a few minutes in the GP surgery will either sort it out or teach you that you are going to live with it, but just in case, get it looked at. Just go and make an appointment though. Like I said, most likely a few minutes, or a reappointment to get it checked throughly adn that most likely will be that.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Like I said, the lump is only miniscule so I think it is just a remnant of a previous saddle sore/friction which hasn't quite healed up fully and so constantly gets annoyed again when I jump back on the bike. So I'll take your advice and just book the appointment and hopefully get it put to bed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,826 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Had a small bump once that ruptured internally & became quite a serious situation so best advice is to get it checked by a GP. A small day procedure will solve the bump issue.



  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Anyone know of a bodge to remove a campag cassette when you have nothin but Shimano lockring tools.


    I'm just sticking Shimano compatible wheels onto the campag bike because the hubs are prettier and skewers match perfectly so ..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,826 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Another looking for a bodge / hack.


    My saddle won’t clamp fully on my Merida so any suggestions on how to add size to the saddle rails to ensure it stays out?

    Currently just added some thick tape which worked but not sure that’s a perma fix.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,826 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Anti grip tape might be better then thick double side tape maybe.

    Tube will be option 2 if it fails to hold on Sunday.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭Plastik


    If they're both 11 speed you don't need to change out the cassette. There's such little difference in cog spacing that it'll make no discernible difference to shifting.



  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I want to remove the campag cassette as I'm getting rid of the wheels. I've offered them with and without cassette. Now just using a Shimano cassette on other wheels



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    On disc brake road bikes, do other people leave the thru axle handle in place on the wheel or do they take it off and carry it? I'd be afraid that it would come lose on a ride




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,826 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Normally leave mine off though if you forget a multi tool you are in trouble if needed a tube change.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Mine stays in the car. I haven't used it, other than letting my mate use it to take off his front wheel to get it in the boot.

    I've a multi tool on the bike, and a proper set of hex keys in the shed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    I must be getting old cos I hadn't realised that I can just use my multi tool

    Mind you, the handle thing feels better to use than my little multi tool



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,107 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    mine didn't even come with a handle, I've just used an allen key any time I've had to take a wheel off (haven't had a puncture yet fortunately but I do have a multitool in my kit).



  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Looking at a Deore groupset for my tourer/commuter/shopper. Specifically the trekking t6000. Rear Derailleur is fine, Chainset and BB fine, Have bar end shifters.I'm flummoxed by the front derailleur.


    Don't know if I need top swing or down swing and even at that there are different options


    https://www.bike24.com/p2262022.html?sku=919214



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭vintcerf


    Recently replaced disc rotors on a set of wheels but noticed slight rubbing. turns out i bought mtb ones and they are 2.0mm instead of 1.8mm. I switched wheels to those that have 1.8mm rotors and no rubbing. Is it worth replacing the rotors or can I just rub down the pads a bit?



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