the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

mazdamiatamx5

Ok thanks guys it's as I feared. Do you think I should get new cassette also while I am getting wheel replaced? Approx 11,000 km on the bike.

magicbastarder

have you ever changed the chain in that 11k km? if the chain is badly worn, the answer would be yes.

mazdamiatamx5

I'm on fourth chain.

magicbastarder

i usually get three chains per cassette, so no harm to change it.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119720944#Comment_119720944

Its for the bin, sorry.

Seth Brundle

I'll be putting my good bike into the attic for the winter.

What advice would you have?

Should I remove all tubeless sealant?

I'll charge the Di2 (Ultegra 8170) up full but would I presume I'd need to check the charge every month or so.

Do you put the bike into plastic bags or what?

Large bottle small glass

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119721415#Comment_119721415

Lithium Ion batteries from memory shouldn't be fully charged in long term storage.

I wouldn't have them anywhere too cold either.

magicbastarder

yeah, if memory serves, you're best storing them at room temperature at about half charge.

at1withmyself

I'd recommend a good review of the front wheel too, if the brake track is well worn then it might be a good time to replace the front now too. A worn brake track will be concave in shape.

Edit: aimed at mazdamiatamx5

mazdamiatamx5

Just one further question guys, I recently bought and fitted these brake pads as per link below, is it possible they are not suitable for rim and caused the damage?

The rim is "Carrera Alloy double wall". Bike is Carrera Crossfire One.

https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bike-brakes/clarks-72mm-v-brake-pads-225893.html

If so I will need to change brake pads also.

mazdamiatamx5

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119721680#Comment_119721680

Thanks for this. I checked front wheel and seems ok. These rims have a groove indicator thingy on them, similar to as described in this article -

https://road.cc/content/feature/how-do-you-tell-when-your-wheel-rims-worn-out-238960

It has not entirely disappeared on front, or rear either for that matter, but everyone is saying rear has to be replaced immediately so I will follow that advice.

magicbastarder

how old is the bike? if the wear indicators on the rims are not badly worn, that rim should not have failed like that.

mazdamiatamx5

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119721824#Comment_119721824

Three and a half years, 10 to 12000 km on it. I'm curious myself as to why rim failed, I wasn't in accident and didn't subject bike to any rough treatment. I don't use it off-road by and large, might occasionally cycle it on grass for short distances to avoid pedestrians.

If you look closely you can even see the wear indicator above the crack:

https://imgur.com/a/uEhNfv7

Elvis Hammond

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119721794#Comment_119721794

It's grit between brakes & rim that causes the real harm, & I suppose some pads might be more prone to this getting embedded in them.

mazdamiatamx5

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119721905#Comment_119721905

Thanks, that makes sense. i will check to see if there is anything caught in the grooves of the brake pad.

secman

A learning day for me, getting the Domane winter bike ready, need to replace a a Four Seasons front tyre, it was a used one and then put back on as a temporary tyre, when waiting for GP5000 to arrive, it has signs of perishing on it. Then checked rear tyre a GP5000 and noticed 2 small holes, so thought it needed changing too. Googled tyre worn markers on Conti's....lo and behold..its the opposite, fine when you see the 2 holes...replace when you can't see the 2 holes..... 😃

cletus

So, I have a stupid question. I'm currently fitting a set of sks raceblade longs on my bike. THe fitting of them is easy, but there's, by default, a gap between both parts of the mudguard where they join at thebrake caliper.

How much does this gap affect the control of spray upwards, either onto your thighs at the front, or your arse at the back

JMcL

Four Seasons front tyre, it was a used one and then put back on as a temporary tyre, when waiting for GP5000 to arrive, it has signs of perishing on it

I had similar perishing problems with 4 Seasons tyres a few years ago. I was using them year round at the time, but had been primarily using the other more winter capable bike for about 4-5 months. The GP 4S tyres were badly cracked when I came back to them in the spring, and not with huge mileage on either. It may have been a batch thing as I usually buy about 4 tyres at a time to spread shipping as while it happened with a few tyres around then, it hadn't happened previously nor has it happened since

magicbastarder

are ultrasonic cleaners worth it?

was having some shifting issues with my winter bike, which is probably 7 or 8 years old, and i was thinking that as well as changing the cables, i could take the shifters and derailleurs off for a good deep clean, which would be made easier with an ultrasonic cleaner, but is that a $50 solution to a $5 problem?

Mundo7976

⬆️ On this, without purchasing said cleaner, what's generally the best way to clean rear mech with a sticky downshift?

I normally spray degreaser & toothbrush then gt85 when dry.

cletus

An ultrasonic cleaner is on my list too.

The rule I have for buying tools as an amateur is very simple. Can I afford it, and do I want it.

If I wanted the tools I have to pay for themselves, I'd be a long time waiting

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738791#Comment_119738791

For a single use, probably not. They are very good though, plus if yourself or the missus wears jewellery regularly it’s great for cleaning that also.

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738811#Comment_119738811

this is the problem i'm facing; i've yet to tackle it but assumed it could be the cable.

Mundo7976

With mine & the extra damp dirt recently, I'm thinking spring & hinge pins gunked up!

Seth Brundle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738106#Comment_119738106

I don't use the front half of either mudguard and the spray is not too bad unless the weather is really bad.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738791#Comment_119738791

In my opinion, it’s overkill for the annual deep clean.

The sonic cleaner will get the cassette, chain, derailleurs, cranks and brakes spotless but the concentration and temperature that suits took me a while to nail down and can be detrimental to parts if incorrect. I wouldn’t use it for the shifters.

I had sticky downshifts in the past and followed the video below to flush and service the rd which resolved the issue. It’s quite a tricky repair though so beware...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fd6clpIvrfg&feature=share&utm_source=EJGixIgBCJiu2KjB4oSJEQ

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738791#Comment_119738791

Ultrasonic cleaners are totally not necessary. I've deep cleaned rear derailleurs a few times. Front derailleurs don't need to be disassembled in my opinion. Just drown the Front one in WD40 and move it rigorously by hand a few times. then wash it and re lube it. The rear derailleur is different and as per the video linked to above, its a bit fiddley getting the main spring back in (getting it out is simple) as you have to do it while tensioning it at the same time. but plenty of WD40, then clean it, re-grease it and reassemble it and its good to go for another few years.

cletus

You're all missing the point. MB is looking for a reason to buy a new tool/toy. You are all stripping him of that reason. I mean, who in their right mind says "no, don't buy that tool".

@magicbastarder get the ultrasonic cleaner, you know you want it...

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119738811#Comment_119738811

This. Shimano shifters - probably others too - have a reputation of the factory applied lube hardening and becoming tacky after a few years I didn't even need to take the shifter off first, just peeled back the hood to expose all the internals, or even just cable tie the brake lever back like here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLxyrVQ_00 (it was my rear shifting that was sticking) If memory serves, peeling the hood back allowed a little access port on the side be unscrewed allowing for a bit more access to the internals. After degreasing, I washed out the degreaser with a hose, let it dry, and re-lubed - wasn't GT-85, but some other light spray lube I'd picked up in Aldi/Lidl

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119740093#Comment_119740093

In that case why bother cleaning the components? Buy a new bike! ;)