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Cost of shed

  • 08-12-2022 12:50AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,398 ✭✭✭


    Looking to construct a simple lean to shed here just for storage purposes (meal and tools and a couple of small trailers) , 2 spans so 30 ft long and 16 ft wide. Had a local guy look at it this week who's only new into this game but what he suggested to keep costs down was to bolt pillars onto top of shuttered walls so saving on over half the amount of steel as opposed to full length rsjs and to also make the rafters out of crash barriers welded together. Any pros/cons to his suggestions? He is to come back with a price in the next week but anyone got a rough idea as to what a shed like this would cost?



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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    I'd be a bit wary of doing that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,398 ✭✭✭DJ98




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,578 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    I wouldn't like the sound of crash barriers welded together for the roof. The risk of welds falling and the roof collapsing would be a concern.

    Are any of the shuttered walls already there. You're only going to save on 6 rsjs max. I don't know how much 1 is but your talking savings of maybe a couple of hundred in the shed.

    I'd price getting the job done without cost saving measures too. That way you'll see exactly how much your saving. It may not be that much.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    For basically the same reasons J.O gave above

    Crash barriers are also designed for one thing. I don't know whether they'd be sound to use in the roof. An engineer might be able to give a better opinion

    Plus the fact that your man is only starting out.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,843 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Timber prices have dropped a bit as Sweeden can’t sell to Russia. 6x3 should be a bit cheaper soon. What would you be saving by bolting pillars to walls? One tip of a loader bucket and shed could be down around you.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,264 ✭✭✭amacca


    Agree completely... stand them in the ground instead of introducing a structural weakness/point of failure


    Yer man sounds like a mullocker....



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    I doubt you'd save anything bolting columns to walls, where the column would be would still have to be filed with concrete and rebar.

    As for the crash barriers, unless your man is fierce tidy it'll look gunthered together and with the price of steel I wouldn't think there is a huge saving either.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,392 ✭✭✭Tonynewholland


    16' isn't much of a span and I wouldn't be worried about the strength but unless you have them for free is it worth the hassle. How high on top of the walls will the pillars be. Might be easier to go higher with the wall if it's the low side and use no pillars



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 854 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    Get the job done right, you'll be looking at it the rest of your life, look at the sheds blown down in recent years with wind, not worth the tiny savings you'd make with them measures.

    A timber purlin is about 38 euro if I remember rightly, steel purlin cheaper again I think, the last time I looked at crash barriers they weren't a whole lot cheaper, who's paying for the time welding them then?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,700 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    Put in the floor slab, bolt the uprights to it, then use RSJs as the rafters, short cuts in the structure of the building will only end in disaster, wind loads, snow loads or a tip from a machine could level it.

    If you want to save money look at the sheeting. Maybe don't but any concrete walls around the shed, maybe use blocks and building them yourself or look to see if you could get second hand cladding or "seconds" insulated cladding. If you wish to go with concrete walls maybe look at "second wall panels" from a concrete supplier



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,630 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    I'd be more inclined to put in a footing for your wall and bolt the uprights to that. Let your floor run in over the footing then after. I've seen a few places where there was water making its way through the joint between the floor and wall when it's not stepped.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20 ScottL


    If you want you can have a look at a similar sized timber frame option I posted over on

    Lean-To Shed (Traditional Framing - Douglas Fir) | The Farming Forum



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump



    I often wondered about she kit sheds that are bolted to a slab.


    Surely if building from scratch, you'd always prefer to go with the girder into the ground (in concrete of course)? No? Or would lads ever put up a slab with the intention of bolting the shed onto it? I mean for a permanent job that you know you're not going to be dismantling.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,862 ✭✭✭White Clover




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump



    Reminds me of a 100-year old "barn" I saw in California a few years back. Although it was at least 60'x60' and probably over 20' high. In redwood country in the mountains. All massive beams and planks. Fully enclosed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,327 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    Would a car life not just have fairly static and predictable loads against it though. At some stage someone is probably bump up against a girder or push dung against it when cleaning out a shed etc. Or even a big gust of wind catching the roof



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,392 ✭✭✭Tonynewholland


    There'd be a lot of movement on a car lift with all the pushing and pulling going on at times and a heavy jeep above your head. I'd say the weak point of bolting into concrete would be the weld on the base plate and not the bolts if done right



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,225 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Most industrial buildings are bolted to the ground, foundation pads are put in place with Rag Bolts in place to hold the base plates, good 9x3 timbers would span 16ft for trusses



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Mr..


    Im considering putting a lean to off a shed and met the man that did the concrete of last shed, he reckons u could bolt the gurders to top of wall but it would want to be a 10 inch thick wall



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    I have hundreds of sheds done where they are bolted to the slab and i've yet to see any of them fall!

    As long as they are done right of course, standard procedure is to shim up the highest column half inch and shim everything else up level, you're then left with a void under the baseplates where you should shutter and grout them.

    Them cones are left in the hold down assembly so you can shift the bolts in the holes to allow the baseplate to fit over them, same procedure with shimming them up and grouting underneath them.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭farawaygrass


    When putting up the uprights, is it better to bolt them to a concrete base or dig a hole and set them in concrete?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,264 ✭✭✭amacca


    It's handier bolting them and you use a bit less steel


    I don't know if it's true but I always do cattle sheds by standing them.in a hole and concreting in.....it feels stronger to me.


    I put up a workshop and a smaller storage shed by putting in pads and bolting then pouring floor and iys a sturdy job too in fairness....just don't like yhe idea of driving in with a loader to pick up dung and shoving at ground level where girders attached.....not that they have to be exposed or should be .....


    Would be interested to see what others think.....the point at which the bolts fail is well beyond the kind of pressure/force/stress/strain/torsion etc you would put on by taking a run at them with a loader in fairness...then it's how strong is the concrete, how strong is the steel


    I suppose I should be more worried about poor quality steel corroding in the **** and piss.....we have an older shed put up with sections of old rail....fabulous stuff...its well over a hundred years old and barely a dusting of corrosion in the worst of conditions


    A more recent one with rsjs and paint and a slightly worrying deepish layer of corrosion on the surface...made of shite in comparison to the old rails


    You can still see old gates made in that wrought iron style on old farms with almost no corrosion too.....a rusty colour but not depth to the rust....they really don't make them like that anymore (commonly anyway)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭mayota




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭kevthegaff


    I'm doing a lean too, gona go up and over old roof and wer doing a wall at other side with steel reinforcing. Gona bolt rsj to top of this wall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Bolt to slab is perfect job for a lean too/ machinery shed type.

    for cattle shed my preference would be pad for each pillar.

    Some lads set a short bit of girder in the pad well below top of foundation, bolt upright to that girder and then concrete all in to top of foundation.

    everyone will have their own way and I’ve yet to see any shed fall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 436 ✭✭Girl Geraldine


    Absolute messing. And dangerous messing at that.

    The shed structure of the shed ought to be designed by an engineer, or at least specified by a supplier of a portal frame shed that was actually properly designed day one. Not a cowboy who is going to guess the design by eye and cobble it all together from scraps of old crash barriers.

    Bolting the columns to the tops of the walls would be useless, unless the bolts have serious embeddment down into the wall and are continuous with the reinforcement, which would need to be beefed up under that section of the wall.

    From the sounds of your man, I'd say the wind would lift it up off the walls no bother.

    What people need to realise, is it a building job and it is all well and good McIvoring things togther on the cheap, but if something goes wrong and there is an accident, the HSA will absolutely crucify you and everyone else invoved in the building. The HSA are ruthless when it comes to enforcing safety in the construction sector. I as state agencies go, they are second only to Revenue when it comes to ruthlessness.

    They do not take any prisoners. They will do you for not having appointed PSDP/PSCS, for not having a appointed competent designer and contractor, for not notifying HSA of the project, and do you for not having CE marked structural steelwork. And anything else they can find when they come to investigate an incident.

    Engage in yeehaw building work at your peril.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,392 ✭✭✭Tonynewholland


    Competent designer means what. Have you seen the amount of bad building work done everywhere in Ireland with the last 20 years overseen by professional people who are now claiming it has nothing to do with them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 436 ✭✭Girl Geraldine


    Whatabouterying it away like that won't do much good for you if you're up in front of a judge over an accident.

    In this case, competent would mean either a structural engineer with experience of doing agri or portal frame structures, or an experienced farm building supplier/erector who is doing a system/modular buildings that were designed by such an engineer.

    If you are building something on your farm, it is your responsibility to ensure that you stay on the right side of the Construction Regulations. As I said, the HSA take no prisoners. They will nail everyone to the wall if they have to come out to an accident.

    Trust me, I have seen them in action. They are not a forgiving bunch at all. Like I say, they are on a par with Revenue. They don't just look at the part of the job that caused the accident - they go through the whole job top to bottom and everyone gets their penance for anything not in order, even if it had nothing to do with the incident.

    From what I have read on this forum of farm building construction, HSA would have a field day on any of them. I have read all sort of mad sh!t that farmers were DIYing at.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,893 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    Could you say what happened , when you have seen them in action ? What was wrong and how did they enforce it ?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,398 ✭✭✭DJ98


    So have decided we will not go with the cost saving measures and do it once and do it right. So what sort of money can I expect to spend, just on steel for shed, sheeting, timbers and erection of shed. Have a neighbour who will do all digging out and concrete work.



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