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Cost of shed

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  • Registered Users Posts: 29,086 ✭✭✭✭whelan2




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,101 ✭✭✭Grueller


    At no extra cost? Our local office wanted €1300 to do one.



  • Registered Users Posts: 29,086 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    I might have paid 300 euro but it was over 2 years ago. Tbh he earned his money as we extended the deadline a few times and there was a few complications with the partnership etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 257 ✭✭lmk123


    €1300 to do a grant application ? That can’t be right, it just can’t be



  • Registered Users Posts: 257 ✭✭lmk123


    Yeah I was thinking / hoping it wouldn’t be much more than that, I’m waiting for the bill just wanted an idea of what it might be, thanks



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  • Registered Users Posts: 29,086 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    My advisor told me the cost beforehand. I know some tams applications are straightforward but ours wasnt



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Building close to another shed is going to be tricky, as lot of it will depend on the soil type and water table. If it's a drought and good sub soil you could get away with it. A summer like last year would be a disaster. Slippage from under the existing shed would be the biggest change concern. This happening would really weaken the feed passage concrete and you have have to take it up, put filling in and pour again. Leaving the wall in could help to brace the existing shed. Is the anything preventing you from pushing the tank out further. It's could be a case of being penny wise and pound foolish. Minimum I can see the tank being away from the shed is at least 8ft.

    Definitely talk the plan over with a few good contractors locally.

    Another option is to put the tank beside the existing tank



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,169 ✭✭✭Good loser


    I did one about a meter from existing silage walled shed. 8 ft deep plus foundation so about 9 ft. Do it in a dry spell.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,519 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    I'd be sketchy enough about digging too close to the wall that's there. A man was killed only a couple of years ago in a similar situation back west Clare when the wall collapsed on him while they were working on the shutters below.




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    Are you sure its that close? How would they had room to work behind shutters, unless their backs were to wall of a fully straight dig which would be a major safety issue.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,853 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    You may have it done yourself but no builder aint going risk that unless of course he has a death wish !!



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Old lad done this years ago. The slat ended up about 4’ from the edge of the shed on either side. It would be impossible to get it any closer to it.

    What width is the shed you are hoping to put the tank into?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,166 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I did one inside a shed. Pinned the RSJ's across the feed passage and went straight down the area was about 14'wide but there was two rows of RSj's on tge outer side so 1-2 rsj's were allowed to swing free on inner row. Ones on the feed passage side never moved Cut concrete floor with a road saw. Used the sides of the area excavated as external walls of the tank and contractor just shuttered inside of the tank. Walls varied from 200-400 mm but was mostly 250-300mm. It took an extra load of concrete approximately.

    But you are really dependent on your ground and you need dry weather, mine was under the shed.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 202 ✭✭Farmer Dan


    Thanks for all the replies.

    Im hoping to put it outside an existing shed Cavanjack

    & feed from the lie back of the existing shed if you know what I mean.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    How did he support the shutters doing only 1 side, the pressure of concrete out against that would be massive?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,166 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I was not there, the young lad said they used accrows across the tank for the sides. The ends were not under that much pressure. He filled it slowly all the way around throughout the complete fill.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    You will have absolutely no issue doing what you are planning to do.

    Knock the wall down first then you can temporarily support or brace the uprights of the existing shed before you start digging your tank just for peace of mind.



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,166 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I disagree about knocking the wall. Th⁷e wall will provide structural support from one pillar to the next.

    Pin the RSJ's accross the floor with 3" angle iron. Get a lad to weld them to the base of the RSJ on the outside to the ones at the feed barriers.

    The less you disturb concrete or foundations the better until the tank is insitu. The thing I be worried about is the sandstoney ground.

    TBH, I would consider a new grant funded shed. Will the feed passage be wide enough to feed both sides. Your new shed will be quite low at the back. If you do make sure top of its are 150mm below feed passage. If the lip is 1+M from the barriers you will need a slope so as not to have a build up of dung at barrier

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    The wall is going anyway. If it’s not there there is no chance of it falling in.

    With the rsj’s supported he can dig in as far as the removed wall if he wants. He wants his finished slat to be within a foot of them rsj’s ideally. Without knocking the walls that is not going to happen.

    Also his feed passage looks plenty wide enough. Could be 15’ as it is. The lower ground is also not an issue as it’s not too low. He won’t have to go as deep for his tank.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭kk.man


    I would be inclined to go with Bass. If the wall was block I'd definitely knock it.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 18,166 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    There will be no movement at the top of the shed. The problem is steadying the bottom. Ideally I would love grid steel on the side wall panels. I doubt if there are.

    However as long as it's mass concrete, and above 20 Newton, it's grand. The pressure will come on the base/ foundation. The higher RSJ's will provide upper support. It's preventing slippage on the foundations. Pinning accross the feed passage will do this.

    Ideally you would use 4X4 box measured and bolted 2-3" above ground level. With pinning using angle iron, it will not slip more than an inch or two.

    The problem is the sandstoney structure. If its a solid structure he will be OK. He will be lucky to get the slats within 2' of the wall. The wall along the ahed will be one sided. The contractor will pour the opposite side and the ends first and then pour the shed side.....unless he gets the magician I had.

    The rsj are supported and braced from the top, it's about holding them at the bottom. As @kk.man posted if it was a block wall it's a different senario.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,062 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Can you not shutter inside only and cross brace?I've a tank with a large skirt around it and it is a complete pita to keep cattle clean.

    I'd like to get some one in to cut a slope into the edge to allow the dung to slide down into the tank, but it would need to be quite steep to disperse all types of dung. Don't think there would be many interested in the job.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,047 ✭✭✭Who2


    I seen a lad use precast walls dropped in for a tank, i wouldn’t have been a big fan but it may suit for the wall along the shed and pour the rest you would get it right in beside the existing wall.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    While it would be the ideal solution in this situation builders are very reluctant to do it, the force of the concrete on a single side shutter are huge, it would need a massive amount of cross bracing to hold it, and be saying the rosary when poker vibrating it!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,170 ✭✭✭Tonynewholland


    The ground looks as if it has been raised a little there already which makes the job even more dangerous. Surprised no one said just dismantled that part of the shed and put the tank where you want it. Easiest and safest way.



  • Registered Users Posts: 202 ✭✭Farmer Dan


    Thanks to everyone for their suggestions/ comments so far. Much appreciated 👍

    Just to answer a couple of queries, I think yih asked Bass, the proposed feed passage is 5.0m metres between the girders.

    The existing eaves is 4.0m and roof pitch is 15 degrees. If I can get the proposed edge of 14'6" slats, say 1.0m from the existing wall that's going to be removed and replaced with feed barrier, the eaves of the proposed extension should be ok?

    There's always thd option if stepping up the roof of the new shed extension if needs be?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Yes no need to dismantle the shed, just prop the trusses inside and the remove the rsj’s temporarily after the wall’s are knocked. He could shutter the wall wherever he wants to then before putting the rsj’s back up.

    If he gets a builder any way decent it’s all doable.



  • Registered Users Posts: 525 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    5 metres of a feed passage is pretty narrow if feeding both sides. I know, I'm living with it every day. Not a huge amount you can do about it unfortunately. I would step the roof if it were me, it would help with improved airflow through the shed which is never a bad thing.

    When we did ours the existing RSJ uprights were pinned together and there was no problem. 4 feet of a concrete apron between the feed passage and new slat. New RSJs were stood to carry the new roof, we left 2.5-3 feet (I would have to measure to be sure) between these and the existing poles. We then hung head-locking gates between them. An extra gate hanging of each side of the pole means that there is a calving gate/mini-crush in each pen which is handy for AI/calving/vet calls and if an animal needs to be moved in or out a full length race can be made by closing all the gates across.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,169 ✭✭✭Good loser


    My passage is 18.5 feet I think. Pretty okay - another foot would be perfect.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 61 ✭✭Ralph_GM


    Looking to extend the shed by one bay and put in a tank for it, aswell as rip up another bay that's just concrete and put a tank in there too.

    The two bays would be at right angles to each other if you follow. So the barriers would be like I_ if that makes sense.

    Would I need planning and what would be estimated cost?



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