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Today I did something to my bike thread...

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Comments

  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    aluminium frame? what's the seat post?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Steel frame, aluminium seat post. I've tried freezing and heating but nothings budging. I might also use Cola instead of ammonia, would be more cost effective to try first.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,721 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Had the same issue with a Kona Paddywagon over the lockdown, went at it with hacksaw blades to try cut segments out etc, neighbour who’s a fabricator ended up just chopping the seat tube and welding a new piece in



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    are you sure he wasn't lying to you?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,721 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Unfortunately yeah as I ended up having to paint it myself. Post had been in the frame for about 4 years and never moved in that time so was never coming out

    edit: I have been whooshed

    Post edited by Squidgy Black on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,271 ✭✭✭JMcL


    A bit twitchy up front, might be down to needing new bearings though

    I think that's common with this style of frankenbike though. Hydrids trend to have longer top tubes and slacker head tube angles to complement the width of the flat bars. I imagine the latter is what's making it twitchy

    Still, must say the result looks grand, and so long as the twitchiness is something you can get used to, what harm



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,647 ✭✭✭beggars_bush


    cleaned the bikes today. good deep clean too. nothing else to do as it was absolutely bucketing it down outside

    cassette, rear mech, chains all looking very snazzy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    I've tried all the fads and generally they don't work or it's a combination of them all and then it releases and whichever was the last used i.e Coke its miraculous 😂

    For seized posts I find the best is a soak in wd40 leave over night. Then leverage is your friend, lay the frame on it's side on a flat surface. Stillson spanner on the post and then a long bar on the stillson. 9/10 times it will break loose with the lightest or pressure. The seat post is generally a write off either way.

    I have never tried the above with a carbon frame as they generally don't get stuck but I wouldn't recommend.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    and AFAIK you don't want slow steady pressure to break the bond. you want a fairly percussive tap.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    From experience leverage has been the deciding factor on several stuck seat posts. Sure a tap on the seat tube may help similar to how an impact would work.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    Agree with the above, if you can clamp the seat post in a bench vice, you can use the frame itself to increase the leverage



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Its definitely bonded alu to steel so Wd40 won't do anything unfortunately (I don't think).

    Already tried, not even a budge. It's so tight a blow from a hammer will just bend the seat post. My dad had a weird drop hammer thing that acts like a vice that will pull with a jolt but I'd have to make it as I won't be home for awhile. I'll try the coke first and then ring my dad to ask what it's called.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,317 ✭✭✭gameoverdude


    Kinda off topic,but I actually used it!

    Felt good.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    freezing it would have a better chance than heating it, as i understand, as Al has a bigger coefficient of expansion than steel.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,721 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    @CramCycle at that rate I can't see a slide hammer working.

    There are homemade jigs I've seen for pulling the seat post, but you'd want to have the materials to hand

    Edited to add: if you can put it back in the vice, and get something to use as a lever (I used a length of 4x2).

    Position the lever between the seat tube and the head tube, and use it to increase the torque as you turn

    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    How often should you be removing the seat post to prevent this happening? I've had a bike fit on all of my bikes so don't like to fiddle with the saddle height



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭hesker


    Sodium hydroxide solution has been used successfully I believe. Poured in the BB. It reacts with Al.

    If you google it I think you should find an account of it. I would not have the frame completely upside down. Just a slight angle off it and add portionwise and rotate to add more



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭hesker


    Also I think I read somewhere about a guy constructing a type of slide hammer again using the BB to add nuts to threaded rod or something like that.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    You just need more leverage. I'm talking get an 8ft piece of steel on the end of a stilson. I wouldn't use the frame to leverage as there's a good chance you'll bend something if it's that stuck.

    The hammer you're referring to is a slide hammer they're used for pulling out dents in autobody shops.https://www.screwfix.ie/p/hilka-pro-craft-dent-puller-kit-9-piece-set/62730?gclid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dAoKww-x80QDOCZ11YGnPzuhkSvan5C-qfjQbv7-JtpNWYbG5qKJoxoC6NkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    How do you secure the frame while pulling on the Stilson



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    I've always laid them flat on the deck as it creates a bit of space between the seat post and the ground. Then have some one hold it down, it may be similar forces exerted on the frame but in my eyes I don't think they are.

    They key is twisting as opposed to pulling. I've yet to be stumped by one but I'm sure it'll happen at some point and hopefully we'll find out the coke is miraculous after all 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    I think if you use the 4x2 like I suggest earlier, it results in rotational force too. I've had it work on a seat post that hadn't been moved in about 35 years 😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Yep I missed that, I generally use a length of unistrut as it's naturally heavy.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    That's it, Dad was a pretty handy mechanic so had the tools to do everything. I just didn't know the name.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    Swapped out stems, replacing the 110mm with a 100mm (which is what was spec'ed for the bike, but I'm assuming with supply lines etc, they used what they had)


    Had to take a second look, as the torque spec for the pinch bolts on the steerer end initially looked like 55nm. Closer inspection revealed a decimal point 😀



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    I've had what I think is a chest infection for almost two weeks now, so in lieu of getting out on the bike, I thought I'd do some shed therapy.

    One of the (many) unfinished projects I have lying around on the work bench is a bearing press I started making a couple of months ago. Figured I should get on and get it done. While it's not quite there yet, it is starting to look like what it's supposed to be




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    Today I spent the afternoon building up my new bike. What was nice was that I was originally just collecting it (rolling frame) from the frame builder, but he says sure let's build it up now.

    His workshop is part of a "hub" with 2 other frame builders, a wheelsmith and a fully decked out 3 bay assembly stations.

    Electrically moving Park tool clamps, full tool sets, the works.

    We (the wheelsmith even got a bit of play in the rear wheel sorted by rebuilding the hub.

    Needless to say that future work won't be as easy!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    Yes. I was sent some of the building (September) and the assembly that I took today.

    I'll find a suitable thread to post in at some point soon.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    As mentioned in the stupid questions thread I spent today fitting some carbon aero handlebars. I'm not sure why I chose today as the bike will sit on the trainer for another couple of months anyway. I never really believed how much of a faff people said internal cable routing was; but now I do. And I only had to get the cables through the handlebar. Also had to drop the bike to the LBS to fit new nipples and olives to the brake lines. But she is all back together now. Old handlebar had a 20mm raise built in which was one of the reasons I wanted to swap out.


    Also controversial call with the white bar tape but we shall see how it holds up.





  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Also controversial call with the white bar tape

    no; absolutely in keeping with the implied colour scheme based on the name of the bike.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I put a new saddle on the turbo bike today which was long, long overdue. The Fizik Arione that was on it seems to have been designed by the devil



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,647 ✭✭✭beggars_bush


    Put a power meter on the bike so replaced the left crank

    Easier than I thought it would be. Just have to get some grease and go back and apply that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Make sure you torque that correctly (which is quite high if I remember correctly). I've learned that the hard way...



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    White bar tape looks good, now of course you'll have to make use of the flat section on the new bars to ride everywhere in the puppy paw position to keep them clean!




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,271 ✭✭✭JMcL


    And torque it carefully if Shimano as they seem to make the crank pinch bolts from leftover mozzarella



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,454 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Changed my wheels to Hunt 50's at the weekend, 32mm GP 5000's (with tubes) on them, found getting the tyres onto the rims near impossible so I am hoping they stretch with use.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    Have my new bike about 7 months now. I've never cleaned it. The last 3 months particularly it's gotten covered in a load of road shite, so this afternoon I decided to get out a bucket and sponge.

    I started cleaning before I took this photo, but the rear wheel should give some indication as to how bad it was.

    Not quite a full strip of the frame.

    Last photo is in the dark, but you can get the general idea



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,458 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Fair play, Ive frequently left my road bike a few months 😕

    Yesterday I think I managed to stop the leak in my tubeless front tyre, by tightening the valve a bit more. I suspect the rim tape around the valve will need to be revisited in the future though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,410 ✭✭✭secman


    Ive heard you need to be careful clamping a carbon frame on the workstand, as the bike usually moves a fair bit and as it's only clamped in the middle of the crossbar that becomes a pressure point. Since I heard this I tend to clean bikes without the stand. Curious to hear if thus is still the case ?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    yes, usual advice is to clamp the seatpost as that's sturdier than the top tube.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Unless you clamp it with huge pressure, I don't see it. I've seen riders sitting on the cross bar barrelling down from the gap at 60+kmph. If the pressure from washing is higher than the that of a 100kg vibrating their private parts against it, then you have done something wrong.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'd be with Cram on this. You'd have to be really torquing on the frame to cause damage, I reckon



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,721 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Cranks and all off? That’s dedication, at best mine gets the hose and a bucket + brush



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    You didn't see the filth😂.

    In fairness, they're easy cranks to take off, 8mm Allan key



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,271 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I was taking the young-lad to football on Saturday and on the way back my rear derailleur started giving gyp, not shifting down. Closer inspection found this horrorshow:

    Since I've been a lazy so and so and not bothered changing cable housing when replacing the cable, and given this is the wet weather bike, I'm guessing water made its way in from the cable stop and rusted the housing on the inside. I'm puzzled as to why it failed suddenly rather than degrading over the past few months. Anyway, I'll hang my head in shame at any rate and am now convinced of the benefits of changing the housing.

    So as it happens the Croix de Fer was due a big service anyway and I've been assembling bits over the past few months, so this made me pull the finger out and Sunday was spent giving it some TLC which involved replacement of gear cables and housing (ahem), taking off the TRP Hy/Rd brake calipers and bleeding them (I think in future I can probably get away with leaving the calipers on and laying the bike flat on a bench), new set of Jagwire brake cables for the Hy/Rds, and a new easier cassette (up from 32 to 36 small sprocket). The latter is pushing it a bit as the derailleur is rated for a 34, but I'm banking on Shimano's reputation for being conservative. As it happens I ran into trouble with sizing the chain as I did that last when I was tired and hurrying too much, but I'll take that over to the maintenance thread



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    I changed bottom bracket bearings, swapped wheels , and new brake pads.

    hope it hangs together tommorrow


    Post edited by ednwireland on


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