Today I did something to my bike thread...

Alanstrainor

After all the rain last week I had a go at cleaning, degreasing and oiling everything last night. Definitely a job for the day time, I felt like a right fool outside the garage washing all the muck off the wheels and frame last night. But it was in such a state I couldn't leave it. Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible, before oiling it up. I noticed my gear cable to the rear derailleur is frayed... so need to google that job now.

cletus

Alanstrainor wrote: »

After all the rain last week I had a go at cleaning, degreasing and oiling everything last night. Definitely a job for the day time, I felt like a right fool outside the garage washing all the muck off the wheels and frame last night. But it was in such a state I couldn't leave it. Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible, before oiling it up. I noticed my gear cable to the rear derailleur is frayed... so need to google that job now.

Is it just the piece of cable after the pinch bolt on the derailleur that's frayed?

If so, you could just trim off the end and press on one of the little cable ends, pretty sure you'll get one for cents in an decent bike shop

magicbastarder

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible

i've been known once or twice, if a chain is that dirty, to use the likes of WD40 as a solvent to dilute the crud first before degreasing, so it can cut through it much faster. though you would obviously need a decent lube to replace what's washed away, once it dries. i used muc off wet.

Alanstrainor

cletus wrote: »

Is it just the piece of cable after the pinch bolt on the derailleur that's frayed?

If so, you could just trim off the end and press on one of the little cable ends, pretty sure you'll get one for cents in an decent bike shop

Thanks for the advice, but unfortunately it's the section of cable that runs along the chainstay to the derailleur. So not ideal obviously. (At least I think my terminology is correct here!)

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've been known once or twice, if a chain is that dirty, to use the likes of WD40 as a solvent to dilute the crud first before degreasing, so it can cut through it much faster. though you would obviously need a decent lube to replace what's washed away, once it dries. i used muc off wet.

Cheers, I'm going to give it another look this evening and see. It looks/feels decent now, but there might be a bit more work to do.

magicbastarder

or - if you want to go nuclear on it - just take the chain off and drop it into some white spirits. this will leave the chain bone dry of lube though.

cletus

So, had a few minutes to spare this evening and thought I'd get a start on stripping the frame. Plenty of rust on the fasteners, so had to fight with it from the beginning. The seat post looks to be aluminium, and the frame is steel, so I have a feeling it's going to be a right baxtard



Gave one of the discs a cursory clean, and I think they will turn out nicely

cletus

Managed to get back to the bike teardown. The quill stem did not want to move, and I was having visions on hacksawing it out of the fork



Luckily enough, judicious use of a bench vice and a piece of 4x2 got it moving (having previously filled the bottom of the steerer tube with WD-40)



While I was at the work bench, I gave the seat post a shot, and out it came.



Quill out, and I came to the spring loaded retention ring I had read about on retrobikes.

cletus

All that's left now is to take off the cranks and take out the bottom bracket, but I'm currently awaiting a bearing pullers before attempting that.

brownian

Took the bike out yesterday for a short spin, following similar the day before. The eTap rear derailleur was dead. Not battery dead, but dead dead. No response from 'function' button. No response to new battery....Internet wisdom says this is a known issue, and SRAM have good customer support.

Great, except I'm not at home for the next few weeks (working overseas) and have no bike to ride.

So, down to the LBS here, picked up 105 shifters, FD, RD. Had fun threading cables (frame is good for all cabling options, but set up for eTap. Lacking cable stops, looks like I"m going to need to make some from sugru, if I can't get them from Cervelo....

It took a few hours, but I'm back in business, now riding fully-mech for the first time in years. Even with 'only' 105, it's pretty good. Not as easy easy as eTap, but does the job!

Will reverse the process, when SRAM send me a new RD, all the same.

cdaly_

^^^

I like my mechanical bar-end shifters...

magicbastarder

i'm getting kinda tired of having to wash bikes.
but anyway, on friday, i tried something for the second time, seemed to work OK the first time - took my chain off and dropped it into a container of white spirits (which only had a cm or two of white spirits left), and agitated it a bit and let it soak for a while. this was after several spins on the bike on mucky roads, and it certainly did a good job of removing muck; you could barely see the chain in the liquid, it got so murky, and there was what looked like a bit of sand in the bottom of the container after. took out the chain, wiped it down and hung it up to dry.
when i got it back on the bike, i oiled it with muc off wet lube - which i'm not usually that much of a fan of, but it seems like the gloopy sort of lube it'd be good to have deep in the chain. bike seems happy and chain seems quiet after that.

i'm half tempted to try the deep clean on the chain on another bike, but to try the wax method instead of lube.

Cee-Jay-Cee

I do this regularly but use petrol, it does a great job cleaning a chain.

magicbastarder

i do have old petrol waiting in the wings for when the leftover white spirits run out.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

i do have old petrol waiting in the wings for when the leftover white spirits run out.

You can reuse either just run it through a cloth when moving from one container to another.

magicbastarder

i tried running the white spirit through a coffee filter but the crud in it just clogged up the filter.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

i tried running the white spirit through a coffee filter but the crud in it just clogged up the filter.

probably to fine a filter a sock over the container or something will work fine.

LollipopJimmy

Headset needed cleaning and greasing. Good excuse to break in the new ratchet

cletus

So, time to remove those crank arms. Had them soaked overnight in WD40


Bought the correct tool, threaded it up...


Stripped the threads


Broke out the big guns...


Did nothing but take the point off the puller

Back to the drawing board. I've seen the puller used in conjunction with a small socket to centre the puller arm on the square taper, but that's for another day

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

So, time to remove those crank arms. Had them soaked overnight in WD40


Bought the correct tool, threaded it up...


Stripped the threads

Not to ask a stupid question but you did just sinch up the main collar which you have the spanner on and use the inner bolt to push off the BB right?

I envisage and angle grinder and heat torch in your near future

cletus

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Not to ask a stupid question but you did just sinch up the main collar which you have the spanner on and use the inner bolt to push off the BB right?

I envisage and angle grinder and heat torch in your near future

As my grandfather used to say, no such thing as a stupid question, only an eejit that asked it

Yep, used the puller as you described. I'm hoping not to take an angle grinder to it, but the heat torch might be on the list all right

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

As my grandfather used to say, no such thing as a stupid question, only an eejit that asked it

I used to get there's no such thing as a stupid question but plenty of stupid answers out there.

Cee-Jay-Cee

I treated myself to R8050 Di2 groupset in the Black Friday sales (from Bike24) and on Sunday started the build and removed all the cable guides for the mechanical cables and fitted all the internal wires for the groupset. Not as simple and straight forward as I was hoping for and took approx. 3 hours in total.

The RD wire was a complete PITA as the entry and exit holes on the chain stay are only as wide as the plug on the Di2 wires and so there was a lot of hoking and poking to get the wire threaded through. In the end up I cut a length of brake cable and managed to fish it through, then tied a piece of fine string to it and pulled it back through and then tied the string to the Di2 wire and pulled it back through. That job alone took almost an hour!

The rest of the wires were simple and took a handful of minutes each. The wires on the handlebars were another PITA and took forever to get the done. I then temporarily taped all the wires to the frame/bars just in case one of them would slip/fall into the hole until i'm ready to plug everything in.

I also fitted the shifters which I spent another 30 minutes tweeking to get them both in the perfect position (there are no markings on the bars and so I had to measure, eyeball them) Lastly I fitted the brakes to the frame but haven't done the cables yet (they'll be the second last part of the build before the handlebar tape goes on)

Hopefully I'll finish it all at the weekend as the rest of the build (chainset, chain, cassette and brake cables) is fairly straight forward but i'll leave the whole plugging in and setting up the FD and RD to the following weekend as I don't want to rush anything and miss something important along the way and also I'm in no rush with it, this is my 'good' bike and so wouldn't be coming out till nearer the summer anyway.

LollipopJimmy

I maintain that the R8050 groupset is the best cycling purchase I've made, the smoothness is unreal and the speed of the shift on the front derailleur is fantastic.

keane2097

How much did the groupset cost on black friday?

Cee-Jay-Cee

keane2097 wrote: »

How much did the groupset cost on black friday?

€963 + €10 delivery.

Kevhog1988

Gave the bike a good wash and oiling before the club ride tomorrow. Was filthy after just getting a quick hose off over xmas

Pinch Flat

Recommissioned my eight year old Stevens Vicenza as a winter bike - been sitting in the shed for 2 years so a bit of tlc was required.

Two new tubes and gatorskins for a start. Serviced the campy brake calipers - both were sticking. New front brake pads. Adjusted rear derailleur and gave the chain and group set a wash and relube.

Tightened up a loose bottle cage. Checked headset and seat post torque. Good clean down and the old girl has scrubbed up well.

Last thing is a set of mudguards and she's good to go.

Kevhog1988

Fitted the garmin 25 and ant+ cadence sensor to the bike yesterday evening. Im not the most tech savvy so it took me ages as i had to update software on the garmin. Class how it immediately updates to strava etc. It also has an option to choose indoor ride, how does that work if i dont have a smart turbo trainer?

LollipopJimmy

My bike is currently stripped down in the shed. It was manky, i wouldnt mind it was spotless a few days ago but theres a huge amount of muck on the roads

Needed a new chain and cassette, considering a big ring, my lbs is getting me a price tomorrow. I've the crankset off and disassembled too. Going to wax the frame tomorrow.

Cee-Jay-Cee

theemigrant wrote: »

Fitted the garmin 25 and ant+ cadence sensor to the bike yesterday evening. Im not the most tech savvy so it took me ages as i had to update software on the garmin. Class how it immediately updates to strava etc. It also has an option to choose indoor ride, how does that work if i dont have a smart turbo trainer?

You don't need one but you will need an ANT+ speed sensor on the rear wheel to record speed and distance.