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Today I did something to my bike thread...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,425 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Only just spotted this thread.

    Have recently upgraded the bottom bracket on my 2018 Cannondale Caadx from bb30 to threaded 68mm via an FSA adapter.

    mostly this was to fit a shimano crankset, the bb30 was ok.

    2nd hand ultegra crankset fitted as the budget tight.

    Few weeks later and the chain gives up and takes the front mech with it.

    Got a 2nd hand front 105 mech from rosahane on here, and a new sram pc1130 chain.

    all good on last Wednesdays spin until puncture at very end.

    The tyres are schwalbe pro one, I originally had both tubeless but they wouldn't seal after some punctures so added tubes.

    Rear tyre took a lot of swearing to get off last night, I added an extra run of rim tape when setting up tubeless originally.

    New tube in and the tyre wouldn't fully seat. Eventually I sprayed the tyre rim interface with penetrating oil and left it overnight at 120psi.

    For once the patient approach worked, and it was fully seated todah. Ill need to order a new tyre or two though as the rear has had enough anyway:




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    Quick tool update. I have had no access to a lathe for the last week, due to the big red plague cross on my front door.


    Decided I'd finish up what I could out in the shed.

    With no way to make handles, I've temporarily mocked them up with threaded bar/bolts




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    One handle made, if it fits ok, I'll make the other three




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    First handle drilled and tapped. Happy with the length, so now to make three more



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,425 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Last 2 evenings have been spent getting the xc bike ready for its first race in 2 years. simple but satisfying jobs, full drivetrain deep clean and adjust. Had bled brakes to little effect so decided to take out the pads, sure enough they were properly glazed, quickly sorted with the file.

    A few small bits left - swap the pedals over and a bolt check and good to go.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,347 ✭✭✭beggars_bush


    Fitted a new spoke onto rim to replace one that broke a few weeks back.

    As i was adjusting them to eliminate any wobble, another snapped.

    Luckily i had bought a few!

    Time to start looking for a new wheelset as I reckon there are others waiting to fail.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,384 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    or else just get the wheel rebuilt? it's been five years since i had one done, but it only cost ne €30 then.



  • Registered Users Posts: 923 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    This happened to me in the past also. I’d say it’s best to relieve the tension from the other spokes before re-tensioning



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    So, I decide to tackle the right shifter on the bike I got from Andy69. Brakes work fine, but the down shifting is not working.

    First things first, I had to take out the broken cable in the shifter itself. That meant a full strip of the mechanism. Which is fine, because I wanted to see if I could spot the issue.

    I can move the mechanism by manually moving the pawls on the ratchet, but pushing the shift levers don't do anything (this is where it becomes a bit of a "stupid question post, so if there's some obvious "thing" that people know and can point me towards, please do)


    The only other option is replacement, so now my post kinda becomes a wanted ad. If anybody thinks they have something suitable, I've a thread started in the cycling adverts forum.


    Anyway, obligatory picture


    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    So, new (old) right hand shifter fitted, changed both hoods to black, new brake cables and outers, new tubes.

    I have new bar tape and gear cables/outers, but that will be Monday.

    Looking at the stem, I think the bike probably had a quill stem originally. If anyone has any suggestions to make it look a little nicer (I was thinking of machining some spacers to go under the current stem) that won't break the bank, please feel free to say. I don't plan on spend much more on it, as it will be my runaround/beater/whatever bike



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Haven't been on here in donkeys, nice to see you're still tipping away @cletus

    Finally got around to assembling this steel frame, just need to pick up a couple of p clips for the mudguards and replace that slippery as hell bar tape. I do not recommend at all. Would be nice to have a black chainset but it's going to be the mile muncher so will upgrade at some point. 100% boards build with the exception of tape and cables. Paint job is a good 10 footer but an open air, back garden rush job so passable.




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    Good to see you back in the parish. The bike looks good in photos, anyway 😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Picked up a set of the darker tan wall GP5000 and they're super nice





  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,462 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Is it that the shifter won't engage without the hood cover on? Happens with a lot of Shimano shifters



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,462 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    Nah, both paddles of the shifter mover freely, but the pawl won't engage on the ratchet. With the shifter stripped, I can manually engage the pawl with a pick, but the shifter paddles themselves don't engage. Something is either worn or snapped off



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,462 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Not the paddles as such, the hoods have a rubber groove that presses in when it is seated properly. This engages the mechanism, if the hoods aren't on, it won't engage in most of the modern Shimano shifters



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    Ah, I get ya. This wasn't working before I took it apart. Previous owner flagged with me that it didn't work



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,716 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Saturday spin got scuppered as a simple planned gear cable change and tuning on Friday ended up as a nightmare thanks to internal cable routing with pretty tiny entry and exit holes and my ebbing patience messing about with magnets. Thought I had it done but had somehow managed to get cables twisted inside the frame and abandoned for a few beers on Friday to resume Saturday morning. Ended up changing the bar tape and taking off and cleaning both mechs, cassette and chain while I was at it and bike was behaving much better today than it had been in a few weeks as a result. Never again will I buy a bike with internal routing without careful inspection of what's involved in cable changes. Last time I replaced cables, I managed to get new cable guides in but no way was it going to happen this time around as they were damaged somewhere inside the frame. Rant over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,144 ✭✭✭Alanbt


    Put on new fork on winter fratello. Needed to raise stem as cycle with little one on top tube seat and she’s getting a bit big.

    Looks odd going from fairly slammed, but practicalities win out.


    Finally stuck on some Superstar Components wheels picked up on sale a couple years ago. 19 internal rims so fit 28mm tyres. Notable difference vs 25s on narrow zondas.

    Should be comfier. Slowly turning it into a dad bike



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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'm definitely not a mechanic but trying to be more self sufficient.

    Bought new Hunt 40-50 carbon aero wheels as the free hub on the stock set on my CAAD 13 went two weeks ago and I was without a bike for a week while the shop I bought it in fixed it. Needed a second set of disc brake wheels.

    In the meantime, I did a deep clean and changed the cassette and chain on my old Cube Attain, and fixed the rim brakes.

    And today, I put a new cassette and two new rotors on the new wheels and put them on the CAAD. Put in tubes with longer valves and finished with GP5000 tyres, which went on the Hunts without resorting to tyre levers. Two blistered thumbs but I'll take it.

    Biggest frustration was when I realised that the same lockring tool that took the rotors off the old wheels on the CAAd would not work to put rotors on the new wheels so had to source a spanner from LBS halfway through.

    Either way, it's not exactly a big job but glad I did it myself and learned how to do another few jobs and picked up another useful tool.

    Edit: Looking at the pic, I think I got the tubes wrong ; i.e. longer valve should be on the rear wheel!




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,772 ✭✭✭Fann Linn


    Can I throw this in here rather than open up a new thread? I put gorilla tape on my carbon bike a few years back to protect the paint work. It worked a treat and there are very little stone or gravel marks anywhere on it. It is however becoming a bit grubby looking on some parts, and I am going to remove it and put some fresh tape back on.

    There is a fair bit of residue under the tape however. Could anyone advise what I could use to remove this without causing any damage to the carbon? I was wondering about nail varnish remover or some petrol but would prefer some advice from the experts.

    Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,772 ✭✭✭Fann Linn




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭Peterx


    I have a mountain bike with a 28/38T double front crankset in a BB30 shell. I picked up a 26T today to give me an easier gear (there's a 40T already on the cassette) and in the process found that the BB bearings were in bad shape.

    I thought about ignoring the roughness and grinding as I turned the inner race but decided instead a spot of gunthering was in order. Much bashing later the two cartridge bearings are removed from the Token BB they possibly weren't meant to come out of and now I don't have a functioning mountain bike until I get 24x37x7 bearings. Tomorrow hopefully. Or else it's a gravel bike spin on Sunday :)



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,384 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    as cletus said, but if you're looking for something stronger, aldi or lidl often have cellulose thinner which would be a hell of a lot cheaper than nail varnish remover. but start with mild solvents first.



  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Luxman


    Would a hairdryer to apply gentle heat to it work. doesn't it soften the adhesive enough for it to be carefully pulled away? Is is the paintwork work or frame you are worried about?



  • Registered Users Posts: 923 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    From memory, BB30 bearings press directly into the frame and are retained by a circlip.

    You may be dealing with a PF30 instead (plastic insert pressed into frame then bearings pressed into the plastic insert).

    If that’s the case, you might consider replacing the whole bb rather than just the bearings



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,874 ✭✭✭cletus


    It might, but I'm not removing it 😁.

    Honestly, I don't think that you'd remove all residue just with heat, you'll need solvent. But the heat might help reduce the residue



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,384 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    just put a new tyre on the bike - took it out earlier and went to pump the tyres, and was surprised at how badly it had deteriorated - fairly sure i'd pumped the tyres the last time i'd used that bike, nearly three weeks ago, so am surprised i didn't spot this then. not sure if it's specific to these tyres (hutchinson fusion) but i do tend to notice they go from 'ah, they'll be alright for another month or two' to comically bad in very short order.

    anyway, is there are environmentally friendly way of disposing of bike tyres? or just chuck em in the bin?




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